Framing question - I messed up

[tomsmith]

OK, no easy way to say this and I'm just gonna 'fess up. I'm in the middle of framing my basement and opted to build the frames on the floor and then lift them up.

I am framing for 16" OC and made each section at a time, double and triple checking each stud would be 16" OC and be perfectly straight up and down.

However, what I didn't account for is where each section mates up with the next. During my planning, I designed it so that each section wouldn't just have a 2x4 on the end, but would carry over the 16" OC pattern. What I actually did was forget all about my planning and in my excitement to use my new cordless DeWalt framing nailer, was just frame to the measurements. To make matters even worse, I even stood up each section and attached them to the joists and the floor so they are now set.

The problem is this - where two sections meet, they have 2x4's right next to each other. When i started drywalling, I immediately realized my mistake because over time, the edge of a sheet of drywall wouldn't land in the center of a stud, but a little past it. I started off just by sistering another 2x4 to a stud so I'd have a nailing edge, but now that I'm a few sheets of drywall in, they're progressively getting further and further away from a stud and sistering just isn't an option.

To remedy this, what are your thoughts on adding pieces of 2x4 horizontally between the studs where the edge of the drywall lands and then using that as a nailing edge? I would add a horizontal piece every 12" and nail them in with 2 nails from either side of the supporting stud.

I thought about adding another stud vertically to get the nailing edge, but I'm having a real hard time stopping the stud from moving from my measurement when I nail it in. I can brace the bottom with my boot (carefully) so it doesn't shift but the top is too hard.

and yes! I know I should have accounted for the 16" measurements but the d*mn DeWalt nailer was just too fun

 

[PCustoms]

What you were trying to do vs what happened made no sense to me...

But you can just toe nail in a stud where you need to support the end of the drywall.

 

[DieselNut88]

Just cut the sheets shorter. A lot less work.

 

[eddieK]

Cutting the sheet rock is about as simple as it gets.

 

[KenC]

If you're hanging the sheets horizontal, just cut one off and the rest will fall in place.

If you're doing vertical, that is more difficult. And if you don't have many up, I'd change to horizontal.

But, you don't have to have seams on a stud. there is a school of thought that better seams can be made, from a mudding point of view, by seaming between studs. Google '**** hanger', be sure to use the quotes or no tellin' what you'll see! You don't have to buy them, just make them up with some scrap plywood and shim pies ripped from a 2by.

edit to add: don't feel alone, I've done a lot of framing and missed exact 16/24s the same way more than once. The usual fix by a real crew involves a sledge hammer and toenails.

 

[johnnyradiant]

If you're going to just nail another stud in you could use a screwdriver or prybar wedged in between the stud and top plate while you drive in your first nail at the top, or you could screw it instead of nailing, or you could cut your stud for a tighter fit. It's easier than standing on your head to use your boot up top.

 

[tomsmith]

Thanks guys,

This is one of the instances where, in retrospect, the solutions are so painfully obvious but when you're staring at 50' of framing that you know you messed up on, sometimes the ability to rationally think goes out the window!

Looks like I got two great options here

1. I'm going to try the '**** hanger' method ( http://wilcotools.com/butthanger/butthanger.html ) since it seems easier that cutting the drywall. In theory, this actually seems like a great idea. The recess created by this method seems like a great way to get a perfect seam transition through mudding.

2. If that fails, I'm gonna cut the drywall

 

[Shawn S]

I have used buttboards before. They work very well.

http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/tools-accessories/backing-drywall/buttboard-drywall-backer

 

[Musicinabottle]

I have used buttboards before. They work very well.

http://www.trim-tex.com/products/overview/tools-accessories/backing-drywall/buttboard-drywall-backer

First time I've seen those, but I used to do the same for off layout splices but with just regular 2 X lumber, cut to 48 inch lengths. faster than cutting the sheets to get them back on layout if the next sheet is going to be off again anyways.

 

[highflier]

This is being way over thought....
Just add a stud at the joints via toe nailing.
Takes 15 seconds per stud....

 

[cdestuck]

This is being way over thought....
Just add a stud at the joints via toe nailing.
Takes 15 seconds per stud....

Exactly what I was thinking. And way cheaper than those butthangers

 

[mcbane]

Imagine you were replacing drywall in a house somebody else built. Would you be reframing the house or would you use a knife to cut sheetrock to fit the framing? The answer is the same no matter who framed the walls.


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[jhelrey]

Screw in a 2x4 and get on with life... Or snap the drywall shorter.

 

[KenC]

Exactly what I was thinking. And way cheaper than those butthangers

Don't forget the real reason for the butthanger method: create a depression for tape when meeting two square rock edges. A 2x doesn't do that.

Look at the butthanger again, it's not flat.

I do the same thing by using a strip of plywood with a 1/8" strip glued to each edge. Screws pull the rock edge down into the resulting depression so mud/glue an be level with the surface. Makes finishing much easier to get a wave free wall.

 

[James-W]

If it were me, I would lay the drywall horizontally and cut it as needed. If possible I would go with 12 ft sheets.

 

[The Cobbler]

as other mentioned, way too much thought going on here.easiest, cheapest and quickest way cut the drywall to line up with a stud & forget it. sound s like you're gaining 1-1/2" per 8' sheet .

 

[cdubvw]

Same thing happened to me when I was framing my shed and I did not realize it until I was sheeting the outside. It was my fist time framing anything and I felt stupid! I added a new stud at the correct points to get a solid nailing surface for the sheeting and added the mistake to my tool belt of knowledge for the next time!


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[OccupantRJ]

Cut short blocks and screw Or nail them in place next to the stud position on the top and bottom plate. Place your stud against these blocks and toe nail away. The blocks will keep the stud from skidding and hold it exactly in place. Use chalk or small bits of masking tape on the floor and ceiling to mark stud positions before installing the drywall so you know where each stud is located for attaching drywall.

 

[nadogail]

What they said, cut the drywall to match the studs. Nowhere is it carved in stone the drywall must be 48" by 96".

 

[gtsgarage]

Imagine you were replacing drywall in a house somebody else built. Would you be reframing the house or would you use a knife to cut sheetrock to fit the framing? The answer is the same no matter who framed the walls.


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This is exactly right. Cut the drywall.