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Full Flake Epoxy/Polyaspartic Garage

benwah

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2014
Messages
980
Location
Crested Butte, Colorado
Hey all, just finished up a 660 square foot garage for a customer wanted to post some pictures and explain my process on how I do these types of floors.

First Step was to mask off the house man door from the garage and the windows, and other important items in the garage that I did not want concrete dust to get into.

After that I started the perimeter and body grind. Ground the body with 60/80 grit metal Bond diamonds. Next I routed out all cracks and joints with a four and a half inch hand grinder with a diamond blade on it.

After a good vacuum I filled all of the joints with sand and 100% solids epoxy joint filler and let it sit overnight. The next morning I came in and ran the grinder real quick over all joints and areas that I filled with the joint filler to make them flush with the slab.

For primer I used 3 gallons of clear 100% solids epoxy and thinned it 20% with solvent. Roughly 220 sq ft per gallon.

The next day I came in for the body coat. Ended up using 4.5 gallons of 100% solids epoxy with light grey pigment. Roughly 150 sq ft per gallon. Then I broadcast flake to rejection. I usually go closer to 100 sq ft/gallon but this slab was in excellent condition.

The next morning I came in and scraped all of my flake from east to west, then north to south. I then broomed it into a pile and reclaimed it. Then I gave the floor and excellent vacuum. Pictured is the scraper I like to use. It is heavy and does a great job.

For the top coat/grout coat I used 6 gallons of a two-component 100% solids Polyaspartic. Roughly 110 sq ft pet gallon @ 14 mils thickness. One coat.

Here are some pics of the process...f5d168435b907b527fd27d9e8fc94095.jpgf58d354c58c937ae9586969ece723271.jpg767ca4bd5a6528c6e8ffa0325d7d9da6.jpgeaee212e281b668a1a53868aec1cd667.jpg91ed039941912d9e2fde494ec13c6d82.jpga871ec36fddb259b55a9db76317f1002.jpg931c21cfbd87db59555e0456e1d48cf8.jpg4aa7891ec7995120ba72bedafe3019d7.jpg
 

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RangerSVT

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
70
Location
Rochester, NY
Awesome! Thanks for sharing a full run-down. It's nice for us DIYers to get some explanation of the process! End product looks great!
 

Mge2093

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
13
Looks great. Couple questions:
1) 'joints with sand and 100% solids epoxy joint filler' - I LOVE the look of this, , BUT with so much well intended guidance against epoxying over filled joints (due to risk of eventual cracking), , , could you share which product you use, , , and whether this approach has stood up over time?
2) colors - is this a dark gray / charcoal coating? What color flecks/chips?

Again, looks great!!!
 
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benwah

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2014
Messages
980
Location
Crested Butte, Colorado
Looks great. Couple questions:
1) 'joints with sand and 100% solids epoxy joint filler' - I LOVE the look of this, , BUT with so much well intended guidance against epoxying over filled joints (due to risk of eventual cracking), , , could you share which product you use, , , and whether this approach has stood up over time?
2) colors - is this a dark gray / charcoal coating? What color flecks/chips?

Again, looks great!!!
Thanks!

1) I fill saw cuts and joints on 99% of my floors. My rule of thumb is, "If the concrete is at least 5 years old, saw cuts are getting filled." After being in the industry for this long and talking to ICRI and NACE homies, most will agree this is acceptable. Although someone will always say, "But it could still crack!" Sure, it can... But rarely does. I've had -great- success with this method.

This job I used Metzger Mcguire MM80 epoxy joint filler. Filled saw cuts and cracks 1/4 to 1/2 way with silica sand then used a disposable squeeze ketchup/mustard bottle to apply the epoxy.

2) I added Light Gray pigment to the epoxy. The prime coat and top coat were clear. The flake for this job was Torginol FB-414 "Gravel".

Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any more Q's.
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Mge2093

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
13
In my case, I have a 22 lf joint between two adjoining slabs: 30 y/o old slab and new 2 y/o slab (pinned together with rebar). I think Metzger / McG 100% RS 88 1:1 cartridge might be my solution. Again, thanks, bench!
 
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benwah

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2014
Messages
980
Location
Crested Butte, Colorado
In my case, I have a 22 lf joint between two adjoining slabs: 30 y/o old slab and new 2 y/o slab (pinned together with rebar). I think Metzger / McG 100% RS 88 1:1 cartridge might be my solution. Again, thanks, bench!
Negative. That is not a solution. RS88 is polyurea. RS88 joint filler is used for polished concrete floors. Epoxy will not adhere to that type of joint filler. Highly would not recommend.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,731
Location
NJ
We recommend RS88 for filling after the floor is coated since it comes in many colors so not very noticeable.
 

Cholte

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2022
Messages
1
Hey all, just finished up a 660 square foot garage for a customer wanted to post some pictures and explain my process on how I do these types of floors.

First Step was to mask off the house man door from the garage and the windows, and other important items in the garage that I did not want concrete dust to get into.

After that I started the perimeter and body grind. Ground the body with 60/80 grit metal Bond diamonds. Next I routed out all cracks and joints with a four and a half inch hand grinder with a diamond blade on it.

After a good vacuum I filled all of the joints with sand and 100% solids epoxy joint filler and let it sit overnight. The next morning I came in and ran the grinder real quick over all joints and areas that I filled with the joint filler to make them flush with the slab.

For primer I used 3 gallons of clear 100% solids epoxy and thinned it 20% with solvent. Roughly 220 sq ft per gallon.

The next day I came in for the body coat. Ended up using 4.5 gallons of 100% solids epoxy with light grey pigment. Roughly 150 sq ft per gallon. Then I broadcast flake to rejection. I usually go closer to 100 sq ft/gallon but this slab was in excellent condition.

The next morning I came in and scraped all of my flake from east to west, then north to south. I then broomed it into a pile and reclaimed it. Then I gave the floor and excellent vacuum. Pictured is the scraper I like to use. It is heavy and does a great job.

For the top coat/grout coat I used 6 gallons of a two-component 100% solids Polyaspartic. Roughly 110 sq ft pet gallon @ 14 mils thickness. One coat.

Here are some pics of the process...f5d168435b907b527fd27d9e8fc94095.jpgf58d354c58c937ae9586969ece723271.jpg767ca4bd5a6528c6e8ffa0325d7d9da6.jpgeaee212e281b668a1a53868aec1cd667.jpg91ed039941912d9e2fde494ec13c6d82.jpga871ec36fddb259b55a9db76317f1002.jpg931c21cfbd87db59555e0456e1d48cf8.jpg4aa7891ec7995120ba72bedafe3019d7.jpg
What color flake is this floor?
 
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