FyrMe's Tool Restoration Thread

[Fyrme]

Thanks bonneyman. Just got conformation that the weld job was completed today. Can't wait to get it back and put this thing back together. Not sure what color I'm going with. Probably a more industrial color this time, not so flashy. I will be leaving the jaws in the vise since they were forged in it. I hope to be able to recut the grooves before I paint it. I bought the 142's baby brother the other day. It's a 571 3" vise. The design is near identical even though probably 40 years separates them.
I also just ordered some water transfer paper to print my new name plate label to. I will drill the factory rivets and flip over the aluminum name plate and apply the new label to and then clear coat over that. I will then reinstall it with new aluminum solid rivets. If things go well you will never know the difference.
I'm trying not to break the bank on this one, even though it was a freebie. I went to the automotive paint supply the other day and picked out a color match paint. I didn't buy it though because it was going to cost me about $45 after buying the two colors, clear coat, hardener, and reducer.... And that was only 1/2 pint of each. I settled for a close match from a couple OTC rattle can colors for $15. I'm also searching my options on laminating my own safety glass too. Not come up with a solution yet though.

 

[Fyrme]

Awesome! Love the work you have done here.

Thank you

 

[Brillo]

How old is it?? yeah old and it'll last another life time. It's seeing things like this that make you wounder who's the bright spark who decided to make cheapo tool kits that brake within a few months? Over engineering all the way!

 

[Fyrme]

How old is it?? yeah old and it'll last another life time. It's seeing things like this that make you wounder who's the bright spark who decided to make cheapo tool kits that brake within a few months? Over engineering all the way!

 

[Fyrme]

Got the dynamic jaw back from the 142. It welded ok for 100 year old cast iron. You can definitely see the weld material. It has 75% penetration but had a couple spots where it had porosity.The line you see is not a crack but a little bit of undercut from the weld that I couldn't quite get ground out. Overall I think it's not bad and should be plenty strong.

 

[bobkentnova]

About two years back I refurbished my grandfather's 24" Rigid pipe wrench.
I'm a household DIY guy. This wrench is overkill for most household plumbing jobs,
but it comes in handy periodically. For jar lids that no kitchen gadget can budge, t
his brute will open with minimal effort.

 

[Fyrme]

Holy huge pic Batman!

I just did this one the other day

 

[bonneyman]

The weld and finish job on that vise arm is almost perfect. A little grease and dirt from usage and one would never notice.
And the blood red on that Walworth wrench is striking!

 

[Fyrme]

Thanks man. I just hope the weld is good enough for the buyer when it comes time to sell the vise. I'm going to wipe the bare surfaces with BLO and call it good. The wrench is painted with my now favorite red of all time Rustoleum Regal Red, the same color as that Wilton Shop King I did.

 

[zkling]

Looking good How and what did you use to weld the vise?

 

[Fyrme]

It was preheated to roughly 450* and TIG welded, then slow cooled. Not sure on what rod was used though. (My buddy did it at work)

 

[Lexus]

Beautiful work on the vise!

 

[aoleg]

That Stillson wrench is gorgeous!

 

[Fyrme]

It's for sale in the classifieds. I don't use pipe wrenches much and I already have a 16" Aluminum Ridgid and a 16" steel Ridgid. I figure I can let this one go to a collector of Stillsons.

 

[aoleg]

I'd buy it in a second - just for the looks - if not the shipping costs to Germany

 

[955point9cummins]

I can't wait to see the nameplate restored. I plan on doing similar restorations on a bunch of similar tools for my garage. I want to outfit it with older stuff for my bench grinder, drill press, small lathe and so on.

Awesome work!

 

[Fyrme]

I got most of the grinder repainted. I also replaced the bearings and cleaned all of the dust off of windings.
The PO of the grinder, engraved his name and ssn in the aluminum so I gently removed it as well as some rough casting marks before painting.

Then I did a quick reassembly to give it a test run.

I did a quick test run before I got too far on the reassembly, and I'm glad I did. This is where I need the motor experts to chime in. It is now making a horrible vibration sound, and I think its magnetic field noise, not chassis noise. I say this because the tone doesn't change even when holding the grinder in my hands, upside down, on its side, etc.... Here is a video

Hopefully one of you motor guru's can tell me what is causing this. If not, I'll post something in the general tools section in a few days to maybe get more hits.

 

[yaidunno]

Grinder is coming along nicely. The video really sounds more like a vibration to me, but its hard to diagnose such things with out seeing it first hand. Its an induction motor, so there's really nothing mechanical to go wrong. I'd pull it apart and verify that everything is installed correctly and that there is no misalignment of the field. Make sure the new bearings spin freely. I've never been inside that style grinder, so i don't really know any specific details. I assume that the wiring was re installed the same way it came apart?

 

[jakemac]

Is something out of balance ? Berings, Spindle, Turnings ?

 

[Outlawmws]

Question: how did it sound before the rebuild?

A couple of things come to mind:

Binding bearings: try loosening the outer shells and see if it goes away.

Continuity test on all the windings.

is the armature in balance?

Is it bent?

 

[nine4gmc]

I tried my last one out during rebuild and it almost jumped off the table when I plugged it in. I tightened the case bolts and heard it snap into place and when I plugged it back in, it was silent smooth. The case looked square but wasn't until I put the band in and tightened securely.

 

[Fyrme]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Is something out of balance ? Berings, Spindle, Turnings ?

Everything spins freely by hand and the spindles seem straight visually

Question: how did it sound before the rebuild?

A couple of things come to mind:

Binding bearings: try loosening the outer shells and see if it goes away.

Continuity test on all the windings.

is the armature in balance?

Is it bent?

It sounded like the bearings were shot before the rebuild, but not like it does now.
Bearing spin freely by hand with no more tension then it had when out of the housing. I chased the avenue of too tight of a housing. It was tight when I first assembled it. thinking I put the armature in backwards, I took it back apart and flipped it over. I only hand tightened the shell that time, and it not only still made the noise, it first hummed like it didn't want to start up until I spun the spindle by hand, then it started spinning and still making noise. I haven't checked for continuity on the windings nor the armature balance. But I will when I get it back apart.

I tried my last one out during rebuild and it almost jumped off the table when I plugged it in. I tightened the case bolts and heard it snap into place and when I plugged it back in, it was silent smooth. The case looked square but wasn't until I put the band in and tightened securely.

Tomorrow When I get home from the fire station, I will take it back apart and flip the armature back over then install the band before I tighten the case bolts.

 

[Fyrme]

nine-fo! you the man! I took it back apart and flipped the armature back over, (becasue I flipped it trying to find the vibration, though I don't think it would matter). Sat it on my bench, then installed the band while squeezing the sides together by hand. Then I installed the housing bolts and tightened them a little at a time going back and forth. until they were as tight as I felt comfortable with not breaking the housing. Flipped the switch and had a pleasant hump of a correctly balanced motor. Thanks brother!

 

[nine4gmc]

Good deal, glad I could help!

 

[Fyrme]

Name plate is done...

New rivets should be delivered tomorrow and I got the set tool today.
If all goes well, this thing should be all assembled shy of the new glass by tomorrow. I'm working on a plan for a home brew safety glass. If that fails, I will see how much Lexan will cost me since having two pieces of laminate made will cost me more than I have invested in the whole grinder so far.

 

[nine4gmc]

Dayum You did that

 

[zkling]

Name plate is done...

Woa, details please.

 

[WallynSC]

What those above me said, very nice, details needed.

 

[N0tt0N]

Although you completely failed replicating the scratches Nice job!

 

[MikeF2316]

That nameplate is unbelievably impressive!

+1 on a request for the details.

 

[bonneyman]

Although you completely failed replicating the scratches Nice job!

 

[nine4gmc]

Did a little work in the recliner last night after putting a new radiator in the wife's Jeep yesterday.

I figured I am going all out on this bench grinder, only to have a scared up name plate. While this won't be completely original, the naked eye should look right past it.

I put the photograph in Photoshop to start duplicating the text

New label overlay a top of the original

Finished label. The plan is to get this printed on transparent vinyl.

Does anyone read anymore

Woa, details please.

What those above me said, very nice, details needed.

Although you completely failed replicating the scratches Nice job!

That nameplate is unbelievably impressive!

+1 on a request for the details.

 

[zkling]

Does anyone read anymore

Yes, I saw that but I was more curious how it went from computer to finished product. Smart azz

Specifically how this turned out and or happened

Finished label. The plan is to get this printed on transparent vinyl.

 

[MikeF2316]

Yes, I saw that but I was more curious how it went from computer to finished product. Smart azz

Specifically how this turned out and or happened

I guess we're to assume he sent that metal plate through his inkjet printer...

 

[Fyrme]

LOL. Nine covered how it/they were created. As far as getting it on the aluminum plate, I'd love to say I went out and warmed up the screen printer and laid down the print, but I didn't. Nor could I afford to have one made. The last screen print quote I had for one item was $75 for a dashboard on a tractor with one color. So, I bought some water transfer paper, printed it on my Inkjet, seal coated the paper, then transferred to the backside of the original aluminum plate after sanding it with 220 grit. I have three more just like it. Not sure yet just how strong it will be, but from what I understand, after sealing it, it should be fairly scratch resistant and UV resistant. I wish I could say it was hard to do, but after the third try, I had it figured out.

 

[nine4gmc]

Holy ****, that's water transfer print? Real good job!

 

[Fyrme]

Thanks, It was my first, but won't be my last. I'm thinking about laying out the other three on some aluminum plates and making them available to people with the 397. grinders. My other 1/3hp is an earlier version that doesn't use the same plate unfortunately.

 

[jakemac]

I've been toying with the idea of transferring water decals to aluminum heat transfer tape, to duplicate metal backed decals. But haven't gotten any farther than thinking about it so far. I'm still not sure how wide I can find the tape though.

.

 

[rhuff86]

I've been toying with the idea of transferring water decals to aluminum heat transfer tape, to duplicate metal backed decals. But haven't gotten any farther than thinking about it so far. I'm still not sure how wide I can find the tape though.

.

Generally if you contact the company that makes pretty much any kind of tape you can get it in custom widths. Not sure how much you have to buy though. Neat Idea. I want to learn how to do water transfer period. Fryme you stuff is pretty neat. I would love to tackle some of the things you have. Look like fun projects.

 

[jakemac]

Neat Idea. I want to learn how to do water transfer period.

It's the same as the decals on the plastic model kits at the hobby store.

Testers offers WT decal paper in white and clear to be used in inkjet printers. Just use your favorite graphics program to create your design, adjust the ink settings on your printer as/per instructions, press print, allow the ink to set, then spray on a sealer. Once dry you trim the decal, dip in lukewarm water, and transfer to your project's surface.

After that, you get into the issues with wrinkles, bubbles, and tears. Patience is the key.

Ta-Da !