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Galvanized or black pipe?

Ross/Kzoo

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I know that it's been asked he before but I couldn't find the thread. Black or galvanized pipe for my air lines?
 
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JerryB

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North Coast, CA
Black. The suggestions that galvanized will flake off are somewhat exaggerated, but still a possibility. Putting a filter / regulator at each drop solves that problem.

Jerry
 

kbs2244

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It is a never ending argument.
Pro galv says no rust.
Pro black says no flakes.
All I can say is the professionally installed systems I have seen are in black.

(Of course PVC will avoid both of the above problems.)
 

ForceFed70

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Galvanic coatings only seem to flake when the substrate material is stressed (pipe is hammered, bent, etc.). It's very rare to see flaking as a result of corrosion and intuitively that makes sense. The galvanic coating is meant to act as a sacrificial metal - the whole point is that the coating corrodes instead of the steel. So it's not very likely to have corrosion of the steel happen underneath the coating which is what would have to occur to cause flaking unless you plan to bend pipe or something similar.

Having said that, you don't need the coating - black pipe will last virtually forever without it in this application, so I wouldn't bother.
 

62blue

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If you want to really keep it sanitary use some 316 SS pipe. It will cost you some extra $$$ but in the long run will be worth it. We used to do this around the food machinery.
It will not get rusty and you can just blow it off when it gets dusty.
 

VTDon

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I use galvanized for both my air lines and HVAC systems. Point being, black steel pipe very easily rusts from compressor condensation. Such rust is a much greater liability than zinc hypothetically flaking off galvanized pipe.
 

Crazy68Dart

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1/2" black iron pipe was installed by my Dad at my grandpa's house when my Dad was in his late teens early 20s. He is now 68. It feeds NG to a small workshop, buried in the ground, and he pressure tested it a few years ago with 50 PSI of air before the workshop was restored NG hooked back up for heat.

I used black iron buried from coal cellar where air compressor is to my old garage. Worked fine...

Old black iron is probably better made than new, like everything else, but just some food for thought.
 

77Mini

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All the service air lines at work are copper. they are brazed not soft solder. Anyone tried this for home use?
 

lakeroadster

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I used black...

Once you use black, you'll never go back. :thumbup:

I guess to properly answer your question we need to know what you will be using the air supply for?
 

Coasterbuilder

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If you want to really keep it sanitary use some 316 SS pipe. It will cost you some extra $$$ but in the long run will be worth it. We used to do this around the food machinery.
It will not get rusty and you can just blow it off when it gets dusty.

A six foot stick of 20mm 316 SS is $168 at Zoro. A 10 foot stick of 3/4 galv is less than 20 bucks. Black pipe is a couple of bucks cheaper.

Seriously- in what universe will this ever be "worth it"? :dunno:
 
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CNGsaves

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I used black...

Once you use black, you'll never go back. :thumbup:

I guess to properly answer your question we need to know what you will be using the air supply for?

^ ^ ^ This . . . . . because I'm Back In Black !! Yes, I'm Back in Black !!

Also, black pipe steel is stronger . . . .
. . . . . for the Earthquake felt today in parts of KS & OK, stronger is better !! ;)
. . . . just remember to put the flex line (ie hydraulic hose) between compressor & airline system.
 
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Ross/Kzoo

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Richland Mi.
I would also like to start it off with some flexible pipe/coupling but don't know what to look for. Any ideas?

I'll just have a total of 30 feet of 1/2" pipe. For nailers. dust debris, whatever.
 
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Wabash

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West Central Indiana
For the flexible coupling I used a hydraulic hose from the tank outlet to my Black pipe inlet. Any Tractor Supply supply store has them for $10 - $15 and a Hydraulic swivel coupler is a couple bucks. Temps from the tank outlet to the black pipe aren't high and won't affect the integrity of the hydraulic line.
 

mg283680

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I bought 1" (3/4" ID) brass fittings from the home store and had the hose shop make a 3' flex hose. My limited understanding is that it would be best to use a larger ID tube for as long as possible before throttling it down at the end. The amount of flow at X PSI is proportional to the diameter of the tube.
People jabber about black pipe rusting, but as long as all horizontal runs are sloped, there's little chance of water pooling, I'd think.
I used 3/4" black pipe.
 
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engineer2

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All the service air lines at work are copper. they are brazed not soft solder. Anyone tried this for home use?
Yes, 1/2" type L is good, used regular plumbing solder ( I'm not renting oxy-acet tanks for such a small job), 120 psi. Easy to install, won't rust or corrode. Modern factories and warehouses are done this way, except some are probably brazed. With BIP or GIP, you need a point-of-use filter. From my compressor to air dryer I just use a length of 3/4" industrial rubber hose and hose clamps. Same hose since 1982. Maybe I should replace it, LOL.
 

nadogail

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I am using a 50' Harbor Freight air hose, it was quick, cheap and easy.

My first preference would be the green plastic pipe from Ryan-Herco.

2nd personal choice would be copper because I find it easy to work with using a propane torch, acid flux, and 50/50 solder.

As long as the Harbor Freight air hose keeps working in my little hobby shop, I will leave it in place.
 

volaredon

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IL
What is the difference again between the different grades of copper pipe? (type K, L, or M) I used to know this but forgot/
I recently overhauled my compressor and moved it from the shed to the garage on the opposite side of the house, its time to plumb the garage for air, as I get tired of tripping on the air hose. (used to run 125' of air hose from the shed to the garage across the front lawn whenever I needed air in the garage which was often)
 

LS6 Tommy

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I use galvanized for both my air lines and HVAC systems. Point being, black steel pipe very easily rusts from compressor condensation. Such rust is a much greater liability than zinc hypothetically flaking off galvanized pipe.

Run your lines right with proper blow downs and there is no condensation inside to cause rust...

Tommy
 
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LS6 Tommy

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If any component is made from raw steel, it will rust.

Very true, but it's minimal in terms of creating enough rust buildup to "flake off". The blow down legs should be removing the majority of the rust anyway.

Copper (or better yet, Stainless Steel) would be the better choice.

Tommy
 

lakeroadster

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Very true, but it's minimal in terms of creating enough rust buildup to "flake off". The blow down legs should be removing the majority of the rust anyway.

Copper (or better yet, Stainless Steel) would be the better choice.

Tommy

I agree it's minimal. I have Black Pipe in my shop and don't have any problematic issues with rust due to the piping arrangement I installed, but rust is indeed visible in the water separator bowl. It's raw steel pipe, with humid air blowing through it, thus, it rusts.

I was merely responding to your comment:

Run your lines right with proper blow downs and there is no condensation inside to cause rust...

Tommy

"No condensation"... that's just not the case.
 
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stg454

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Rhode Island
They make K copper in sticks that is not flexible or you can buy it in rolls which is flexible. Most common use for the rolls is underground water services from the water main to the house.

K is the thickest wall and is not flexible. L & M are thinner (in order of wall thickness) and can be bent with a hickey.

Tommy
 

Muzzy

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Northeast PA
If you want to really keep it sanitary use some 316 SS pipe.

This for anyone in search of an excuse to buy an orbital welder.

In the black pipe vs. galvanized debate, either should be satisfactory for the intended use. I would go black pipe if I were purchasing the pipe and fittings new, but I wouldn't hesitate to use galvanized if there was a deal to be had.
 
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