garage air line plan- Critique please

[vintage_Car]

this is my first attempt at the designing of the air lines in my shop. I'm starting to get more into restoration work and need clean dry air. Looking for any suggestions on changes/additions. hopefully the drawing is not to difficult to understand.
Thanks guys.

 

[akdiesel]

Looks fine but I would not spend to much time making sure it drains back to the tank. If you have that much moisture in the line then when you use the air it will simply go to the user end anyways and if that much water collects in the pipe when static then you simply need to correct the moisture build up anyways with a filter / desiccant system.

 

[vwracer]

Why go over garage door and then back to your hose outlets? Put a tee to drop down and over door.

 

[shoot summ]

Dryers/filters are relatively cheap, I would put one at the tank, then at the connections, wouldn't worry at all about the slope/drain back.

Do you need 2 reels for what you are doing? I just run a single reel, the air tools don't like moisture either so I have a dryer/filter in front of it, no inline oilers, I just add a drop or two to the tool now and then.

 

[vintage_Car]

I can add a filter/dryer in front of tool and air tank easily. Does the filter at the tank actually trap pretty well? I do not use inline oilers either. The dryer in front of the paint reel is a fairly nice one I got as a gift, figured it would be better put to that use for the best dry air possible to a seperate reel.

 

[fflintstone]

I would not double back over the door as well. if you find a used refrigerated air dryer like I did you can put it on a Tee next to the reel for the air tools. I would not spend the money for a reel for the painting air hose, unless painting is your primary thing.

 

[vintage_Car]

what about a pressure relief valve, is that necessary in this design, if so...where would it need to be placed?

 

[fflintstone]

I would also consider a cheap home made " water seperator" right after the compressor.


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186531

 

[vintage_Car]

painting, sandblasting and sodablasting will be used on the 2nd reel...I already have the 2nd reel, figured I would use it for that purpose

 

[fflintstone]

what about a pressure relief valve, is that necessary in this design, if so...where would it need to be placed?

no, your compressor will have two relief valves and black pipe will handle all the pressure your compressor will put out.

 

[vintage_Car]

fflintstone: I read about the "Franz"- trolling this site for quite awhile, lot of mixed reviews. I get the concept...still thinking about that one. Might give it a try.

 

[Kevin54]

You should have a couple of drops and drains before you get to your usable lines.

 

[bigredmf]

Your lines should be pitched away from the tank.
You should have tees at very location you have a drop. Point them up and use two short ******* to go up and over. A union 90 will then be used to facilitate your drop.

Filters and perhaps regulators at each drop.

At he end of the run extend it, add a final drop with a drip leg drain.

Each drop should include a way to bleed off moisture this along with drains on your filters should deal with moisture.

Enjoy

RED

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have a ball valve where the flex line from the compressor meets the plumbing at the wall. It makes it cheaper and easier to shut entire system down when necessary. A ball valve is cheaper to replace than the valve on the compressor tank.

 

[alpinewhite]

Why do you have the dryer only on the paint reel? Is moisture ok for your air tools?

I'd put the dryer before the first reel.

 

[CNGsaves]

Several good suggestions so far.

Since you're going with the best . . . black pipe . . . you'll be taking bunch of moisture out just with proper line system. I'd recommend full pressure of compressor throughout the black pipe line system (ie compressor regulator left at max you want compressor to run at), and then add regulators at your drops. This will maximize your pressure/flow at drops. With this setup, it wouldn't hurt to install PRV (pressure relief valve) somewhere on line system in case the PRV is stuck on the compressor (ie backup plan). For compressor to line system connection, I'd recommend flexible hydraulic hose to handle vibrations and would be initial connection to Franzinator. Following from Tractor Supply is only $15 for 1/2" line x 36" length:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/hydraulic-hose-1-2-in-2-wire-36-in-l-1819363

Also, I don't see any workbenchs in your drawing but I'm guessing that drop(s) will be needed on big wall as you'll likely have workbenchs over there. Put ball valve shutoffs at each drop to serve as moisture drain.

Finally, be sure that your "drops" from the main line actually go UP first, then elbow back down for the drop that is surface mounted to the wall. This will let the black pipe line system take out as much moisture as possible just from the horizontal line system itself.

Good luck and show us pics when it's all done.

 

[NUTTSGT]

For compressor to line system connection, I'd recommend flexible hydraulic hose to handle vibrations and would be initial connection to Franzinator. Following from Tractor Supply is only $15 for 1/2" line x 36" length:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/hydraulic-hose-1-2-in-2-wire-36-in-l-1819363

Good luck and show us pics when it's all done.

I used a hydraulic hose from TSC also, just a shorter one. I also picked up a swivel fitting to put on one end.

 

[akdiesel]

I would also consider a cheap home made " water seperator" right after the compressor.


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186531

I have a Knock Out Drum (franzinator) for a few years now and it simply works. The key is to have a smaller size inlet then the outlet of the knock out drum to help cool the gasses to aid in dropping out liquids aka JT (joule-thomson) effect.
You can hook up another liquid drain system like on your air tank as well, set it and forget about it.