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Garage Door Insulation

Bonefishmak

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Clarksburg, MD
I wanted to insulate the inexpensive door that came in my new TH. I see Owens Corning offers a garage door insulation package. Anyone used it? Thoughts? Is it easier to just replace the door? Or a better idea?

Thanks, in advance, for your help.
 
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Iroc-Z

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Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
720
Location
New Germany, MN
Its up to you. A guy at work used it and said it worked good. I just had mine replaced and it was nice because it was steal backed on the inside so it looks nice and finished.
 
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Bonefishmak

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Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Clarksburg, MD
Its up to you. A guy at work used it and said it worked good. I just had mine replaced and it was nice because it was steal backed on the inside so it looks nice and finished.

You just had your what replaced? Insulation and it was sill backed on the inside? Not sure I understand but, it sounds like a vote for it..

Thanks!
 

38Chevy454

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Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
4,036
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Been discussed many times, do a search and you can find lots of info. Basically you can get that kit and it works, better than nothing. Or you can do your own with rigid foam sheets, cheaper. An as-built insulated door is what Iroc-Z is referring to, he replaced hios with a factory insulated door.
 
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Bonefishmak

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Clarksburg, MD
Been discussed many times, do a search and you can find lots of info. Basically you can get that kit and it works, better than nothing. Or you can do your own with rigid foam sheets, cheaper. An as-built insulated door is what Iroc-Z is referring to, he replaced hios with a factory insulated door.

Sorry....I'll be sure to do full search's next time.
 

JimVonBaden

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
15,716
Location
Northern Virginia
In Las Vegas I had the full afternoon desert sun on my door. A 1" foam insert with reflective backing on it made a world of difference. I plan on doing the same here in VA. It will cost about $20.

Jim :cool:
 

Wackerjr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Messages
103
just bought 1 1/2" foil face foam at Lowes for 18.86 a sheet and did mine... 3 doors, 3 hours, and r-7 insulated.... Easy peasy....

FYI found another use for the HF multitool... cuts like butter....very little mess
 

desmo907

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
8
Location
CT
I was thinking of insulating my wooden garage doors (standard 4 stacked horizontal pieces) and hard to find any kits, etc. Any thoughts or experiences?
Also how does one handle between the panels...I assume you need a little gap when the door rolls up (mabe you overlap the insulation)?
Thx
 

Ascinder

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Reno, NV
My dad just used fiberglass roll insulation on his. It sits into the panels and is held in by several bamboo plant stakes. It's heavy but the garage door opener still lifts it just fine(though slower). As for the gaps, I guess you could use some strips of rubber to seal them and they'd just flex as it rolled up. Some very thin flexible foam-rubber weatherstripping between the panels may also help.
 

box

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Messages
80
Location
Toms River NJ
I recently went from a non-insulated thin metal door to a well insulated door with steel on the inside,
I had first bought the kit to insulate the door then a day or 2 later I saw a door on closeout, I wish I had done it years ago at any price, the difference was unbelievable:
 

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Root

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Aug 10, 2009
Messages
94
Location
Central DE
Here's what I did. They're 7' tall by 8' wide. Each panel (8 panels per door) is 20 1/2" tall by 52"-53" wide (the inside measurement).
My doors before the insulation.
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Stuff I bought. Four 4' X 8' x 3/4" sheetsof Polyshield. $10.96 per sheet from Lowes. Easy to cut with a utility knife and a straight edge. I cut the sheets a bit smaller than the inside measurement to allow me to put them in without breaking any corners. I then used some scrap pieces to wedge between the insulation and the lip of the panel frame to keep the insulation in place.
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Door on the left finished
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Both doors finished.
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I can tell you this stuff really works. I put the shiny side out; one to somewhat match the diamond plate; and two cuz I didn't want the writing to show. :beer:
 

ambenz

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Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,236
Location
NW Chicago Suburbs
I have that sheating on the ceiling and sealed the joints and gaps with can foam.
That sheathing works great as an insulator, and inexpensive too!!!
 

Wingnut65

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Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
3,170
Location
Tampa Bay, FL
I insulated my door similar to what Root did to his above with iso board from Lowes. But my door also has lots of horzontal bracing that I had to remove and reinstall.

Here is the build thread where I came up with a system that has worked for me and several others: "DIY Garage Door Insulation"
 

calven

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
54
Location
Indiana
A couple of quick thoughts:

1) The insulation will eventually "pay for itself" in the heating bill $ saved. You made a great choice!

2) Make sure you adjust your torsion springs to account for the added weight of the insulation. Although it might not seem like a lot, that insulation may weigh 10-15 lbs which will put stress on your garage door opener over time. You should add a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to each of the springs.

Test the door by balancing it in the middle of the opening. You will first need to disconnect the garage door opener from the door by pull on the red release cord.(make sure your door is down first). It should stay in place when you "set" it in the middle of the opening. If it goes up or down at all adjust your springs accordingly. If not then your door is properly balanced already!
 
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BSK

Active member
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
36
Location
EC
Calven,

I didnt think about the added weight. mine might be 5lbs or so but its still added.
Not sure how to safely increase at the springs. Got a thread?
 

Jack Olsen

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Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
I consider it a pretty simple DIY job. I think I spent $36 on 1.5" foam sheets. Then I painted the exposed sides.

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netbrad

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
355
I wanted to go the Insulfoam method but no one carries them locally and shipping would be expensive since I need the 2 inch sheets (door channel is 1-7/8 inches wide). Anyone have an alternative?
 

Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
I used the 1/2" PolyShield - think is was about $8 a sheet at HD. Score with a knife and snap, shove in the cavity. Done. 4 sheets did a 7x16' door. Note - not fireproof at all. Also, you can daub a bit of RTV in the corners to hold the panels in place. I didn't yet, but might. The door in the old shop was 8x7 and I used 1" pink foam. It wedged in tight without any glue and worked really well. But it added a bit of weight to the door. The PolyShield is very light - no door adjustment required after installation.
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Ascinder

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Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Reno, NV
I scored a bunch of 1" double foil backed polyurethane foam from a local place that makes signs and other things in foam. They routinely have big projects and had literally a (semi)truckload of foam panel cutoffs that were 6"x8'. The owner didn't want to fill up a landfill and let it go real cheap since it would have been waste. I would check around with the local shops.
 
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