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Garage Door issue

emmawade

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Joined
Aug 29, 2021
Messages
6
Wasn't sure where to put this, so putting it in general. I need some advice on how to fix my garage door. Yesterday, the big spring above the door broke. I can still get the door open if I lift while my wife pushes the button, but that door is dang heavy. Is that something I can fix myself, just replace the spring? If so, garage door repair where do I get it, and how do I make sure I get the right one. Do any of the Home Improvement stores have a repair service? Do I have to replace the whole lift mechanism?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but haven't been able to get much info on my own. Stopped at a local home store, but the Garage guy had the day off.
 
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RoninB4

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Jul 22, 2020
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Under My House
Wasn't sure where to put this, so putting in general. I need some advice on how to fix my garage door. Yesterday, the big spring above the door broke. I can still get the door open if I lift while my wife pushes the button, but that door is dang heavy. Is that something I can fix myself, just replace the spring? If so, where do I get it, and how do I make sure I get the right one. Do any of the Home Improvement stores have a repair service? Do I have to replace the whole lift mechanism?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but haven't been able to get much info on my own. Stopped at local home store, but Garage guy had the day off.

You could have started a new thread, would expect more replies that way than this one being buried in an old thread.

I'll try to reply here to your questions anyway. First off, a photo of the broken spring will reveal how many springs are being used (one or two central or one at either side). The size of the door and more importantly the weight of the door is important in sizing the spring required. The total length of the spring and the "wire size" (diameter of the spring coil, and coil thickness) are all things you'd need to know to properly size the spring. There are a couple of websites to aid this if you look them up.

Now on to whether you can fix this yourself. The most common are extension springs and torsion springs. There are inherent dangers in both as with any spring of that size. A lot of the deciding factor will depend upon your skill level and the ability to see where the danger is.

As a first time home owner I had a torsion spring break (they will, it's metal fatigue) and I'd never worked on one. All the websites voiced a danger potential (it's not BS) and urged contacting a professional. I have over 35 years of machine shop experience and I'm rather inclined to DIY anyway. I spec'd the rated springs and then went up one duty rating (estimated number of cycles to fatigue point) so I don't have to replace them again when I'm too old to want to do it. I watched/read what information was available (you should too) on the replacement procedure(s). I had only one torsion spring broken but I replaced BOTH because they likely had the same number of duty cycles.

I would strongly suggest you determine whether the correct spring(s) were installed on your door because people sometimes do stupid things to save money where they shouldn't. Find the correct spring on the website chart and see if it matches what was installed on your door. Go up one or two duty cycles if you wish, the extra money spent will buy you more time if you intend to be in that house for very long.

I added the information from the videos to my own experience and had little trouble replacing both springs, one or two adjustments were all I needed to achieve a level of being able to raise the door by myself (my door is about 200 lbs.). I would caution you in that if you tighten the grub/locking screws too much you may collapse the tube (if hollow) and you won't be able to make the likely second/third adjustment needed. If you don't tighten them enough the hub will spin, the spring will unwind, and you'll have to start all over again. I would also strongly advise using solid winding bars (if these are torsion springs) not some piece of conduit that can/will collapse on you. There's quite a bit of stored energy in a wound-up spring of this size that commands respect or suffer the consequences and potential corrective surgery.

My advice? Can't estimate your ability, experience, or common sense and don't want to encourage something that ends badly for you. Is it something that can be done without a professional? Absolutely. I did it by myself and I'm not particularly gifted. Watch some videos and be honest with yourself about your ability to know what to do about the danger involved. A ladder or sturdy platform will be required. For other opinions start a new thread. Hope this helped someone.
 

Daniel Dudley

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Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
I went to the local Home Depot, and wound up with Clopay doors. Mine were 2" insulated, and custom ordered. Two were special ordered for width, two were standard. Three separate orders, all matching, free delivery to my door. I swept the garage floor and laid the boxes out flat on the floor to unpack them. You are quite right, they are simple to install, I bought my own material to make the track supports. I trimmed out the inside of the opening with framing material. I had to buy weatherstrip separately. Chamberlain 1/2 HP door openers are quite adequate, and have lasted well. Home Depot really doesn't want you coming back with problems.

HD was more than competitive with the local door company prices. I bought the ubiquitous raised panel doors and they looked good. Clopay makes nice doors, but most are similar. Interestingly, the large local lumber yard does not sell garage doors. FWIW, the new wide Clopay doors have a special tensioning device for the extra wide doors. It works very well if you need torsion springs.

Have fun.
 

nadogail

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Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,946
Location
Coronado, CA
You could have started a new thread, would expect more replies that way than this one being buried in an old thread.

I'll try to reply here to your questions anyway. First off, a photo of the broken spring will reveal how many springs are being used (one or two central or one at either side). The size of the door and more importantly the weight of the door is important in sizing the spring required. The total length of the spring and the "wire size" (diameter of the spring coil, and coil thickness) are all things you'd need to know to properly size the spring. There are a couple of websites to aid this if you look them up.

Now on to whether you can fix this yourself. The most common are extension springs and torsion springs. There are inherent dangers in both as with any spring of that size. A lot of the deciding factor will depend upon your skill level and the ability to see where the danger is.

As a first time home owner I had a torsion spring break (they will, it's metal fatigue) and I'd never worked on one. All the websites voiced a danger potential (it's not BS) and urged contacting a professional. I have over 35 years of machine shop experience and I'm rather inclined to DIY anyway. I spec'd the rated springs and then went up one duty rating (estimated number of cycles to fatigue point) so I don't have to replace them again when I'm too old to want to do it. I watched/read what information was available (you should too) on the replacement procedure(s). I had only one torsion spring broken but I replaced BOTH because they likely had the same number of duty cycles.

I would strongly suggest you determine whether the correct spring(s) were installed on your door because people sometimes do stupid things to save money where they shouldn't. Find the correct spring on the website chart and see if it matches what was installed on your door. Go up one or two duty cycles if you wish, the extra money spent will buy you more time if you intend to be in that house for very long.

I added the information from the videos to my own experience and had little trouble replacing both springs, one or two adjustments were all I needed to achieve a level of being able to raise the door by myself (my door is about 200 lbs.). I would caution you in that if you tighten the grub/locking screws too much you may collapse the tube (if hollow) and you won't be able to make the likely second/third adjustment needed. If you don't tighten them enough the hub will spin, the spring will unwind, and you'll have to start all over again. I would also strongly advise using solid winding bars (if these are torsion springs) not some piece of conduit that can/will collapse on you. There's quite a bit of stored energy in a wound-up spring of this size that commands respect or suffer the consequences and potential corrective surgery.

My advice? Can't estimate your ability, experience, or common sense and don't want to encourage something that ends badly for you. Is it something that can be done without a professional? Absolutely. I did it by myself and I'm not particularly gifted. Watch some videos and be honest with yourself about your ability to know what to do about the danger involved. A ladder or sturdy platform will be required. For other opinions start a new thread. Hope this helped someone.
For the reasons given in the very well written message, I accept the fact that my days of doing hard work are over and call the company that services all my garage doors.
 

firebirdparts

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Jun 8, 2016
Messages
10,608
Location
Kingsport, TN
The spring truly needs to be sized to work properly, and that's not super-complicated, but for that reason they don't just sell wound-type springs on the shelf. If it was a 9 x 7 door then of course that might be false for that one case.

The good news is that this is a common repair for door companies if you can get one to come out. They deal with it all the time.
 

RoninB4

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Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
3,534
Location
Under My House
The spring truly needs to be sized to work properly, and that's not super-complicated, but for that reason they don't just sell wound-type springs on the shelf.
Not to be contrary but yes there are companies that sell them off the shelf. That's how I got mine. There was even a chart to help with the selection and options for upgrading based upon the dimensions, expected duty cycle, and required loading. Look for garage door spring calculator and several companies come up.
 

73project

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
82
Garage door companies replace these fairly cheap in my area, but one watch out is that they don't give you "builders grade" springs with low expected duty cycles. You will be replacing them again in 5 to 10 years when they fail. I replaced mine by myself without prior experience. I watched numerous YouTube videos that fully explained the risks and danger involved in replacement, and felt that something I could do myself. I measured my old spring dimensions listed on the spring website (DDM Garge Doors) and purchased a set of high duty cycle springs for my door. Install wasn't hard, but I took my time so there were no stories to tell grandchildren about how I got maimed!
 

mcdye

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2016
Messages
240
Mine lasted about 13 years, one spring broke, had Both replaced. This is one of the few DYI's that I passed on to the pro.
 

drivesitfar

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Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,009
Location
Pacific Northwest
I replaced several garage springs before finally getting new doors with lift master openers a few years ago and other than a recall on the opener wall mount digital piece I had to exchange all good here.

Needs to be mentioned again BEE CAREFUL cause those springs are dangerous with a load on them. I probably kept breaking sorings cause I didn’t ever change both at same time so one would maybe be a tad different tension or wear out and break at a different time than new one.

good luck
 
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kelpaso1

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Messages
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New Brunswick
One thing a door guy years ago told me was to oil the torsion springs yearly and they will last 2-3 times as long. Oiling reduces the friction rubbing on the the coils opening and closing everyday. And making opening and closing much quieter.
 
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jstroede

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Messages
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Location
Kansas City
One thing a door guy years ago told me was to oil the torsion springs yearly and they will last 2-3 times as long. Oiling reduces the friction rubbing on the the coils opening and closing everyday. And making opening and closing much quieter.
I'm sorry but this is absolutely not true. They will certainly not last 2-3 times as long. Frankly from my testing, they won't last 2-3 percent longer. Light lube can quiet them some, but that is about it. Too much and you will make a giant mess all over the face of the door.
 

jstroede

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Kansas City
Wasn't sure where to put this, so putting it in general. I need some advice on how to fix my garage door. Yesterday, the big spring above the door broke. I can still get the door open if I lift while my wife pushes the button, but that door is dang heavy. Is that something I can fix myself, just replace the spring? If so, garage door repair where do I get it, and how do I make sure I get the right one. Do any of the Home Improvement stores have a repair service? Do I have to replace the whole lift mechanism?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but haven't been able to get much info on my own. Stopped at a local home store, but the Garage guy had the day off.
The first thing would be to determine what size springs you have. If they are common, you can probably get them. Oddball stuff is still hard to get.

Basically you need three dimensions, the wire size, the unwound length of the wire, and the inside diameter. Sometimes the springs are marked in the unwound state, but not always. You should be looking for something like .225-2-25.

John
 

kelpaso1

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I'm sorry but this is absolutely not true. They will certainly not last 2-3 times as long. Frankly from my testing, they won't last 2-3 percent longer. Light lube can quiet them some, but that is about it. Too much and you will make a giant mess all over the face of the door.
Sorry but YOU are wrong. Ever since I have been doing this (40+) years my springs have lasted twice as long if not longer.
 

jstroede

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Sorry but YOU are wrong. Ever since I have been doing this (40+) years my springs have lasted twice as long if not longer.
Funny I have actually tested this on multiple occasions. Same door, different springs (same manufacturer, same type). One set of springs was lubricated, one was not. Each the springs failed within 200 cycles of one another.

Heck I have even weathered oil tempered springs to the point of severe surface rust and cycled them. Guess how long they lasted? Within 5% of calculated cycle life. Now they made a huge mess of things, but they still lasted.

If you don't believe me, slather up your springs in oil. I don't care. Don't spew your BS for everyone else to believe though. Oiling 10k cycle springs isn't going to make them last 11k cycles, let along 20-30k. Springs fail due to fatigue. Oiling isn't doing anything for that.

John
 

AndyL

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Feb 22, 2012
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Vancouver
One thing a door guy years ago told me was to oil the torsion springs yearly and they will last 2-3 times as long. Oiling reduces the friction rubbing on the the coils opening and closing everyday. And making opening and closing much quieter.
Done right - springs can't rub as they're stretched slightly at full tension - so there's no coil to coil rub.

Some people go insane with the lube, it's not really needed.

It's all microfracturing - while there's some argument for oil tempering, it requires heat.

Cycle life is what it is, there's a calculator, you can set the life for as small or long as you like - but you're paying by the inch for spring wire so cost goes up with the length and lifecycle
 

kelpaso1

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Funny I have actually tested this on multiple occasions. Same door, different springs (same manufacturer, same type). One set of springs was lubricated, one was not. Each the springs failed within 200 cycles of one another.

Heck I have even weathered oil tempered springs to the point of severe surface rust and cycled them. Guess how long they lasted? Within 5% of calculated cycle life. Now they made a huge mess of things, but they still lasted.

If you don't believe me, slather up your springs in oil. I don't care. Don't spew your BS for everyone else to believe though. Oiling 10k cycle springs isn't going to make them last 11k cycles, let along 20-30k. Springs fail due to fatigue. Oiling isn't doing anything for that.

John
Sorry but you are wrong. Every garage door spring site recommends oiling the springs to reduce binding and increase life.
 

The Cobbler

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on the oiling spring topic, a friend was having trouble with his door not closing with the opener . I noticed the spring was very rusty, suggested he put some oil on it. his door now closes as it should. are there other issues with the door? perhaps, but oiling obviously reduced friction
 

GreyOwl

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North Las Vegas
The only time the springs coils rub together is the last half revolution before the door is closed. As the door goes up the coils gradually get spaced apart. Oil just lubricates the dirt that accumulates on it and allows more dirt to be attracted! A light spray of dry lube is more than adequate to protect the spring and lube the actual little bit the benefits from it. If you don’t believe this take a good look at the spring with the door open.
 

LB-1911

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Northwestern Il.
Wasn't sure where to put this, so putting it in general. I need some advice on how to fix my garage door. Yesterday, the big spring above the door broke. I can still get the door open if I lift while my wife pushes the button, but that door is dang heavy. Is that something I can fix myself, just replace the spring? If so, garage door repair where do I get it, and how do I make sure I get the right one. Do any of the Home Improvement stores have a repair service? Do I have to replace the whole lift mechanism?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but haven't been able to get much info on my own. Stopped at a local home store, but the Garage guy had the day off.
You'll find a wealth of garage door info @ the link below.


:beer:
edit to add -

The standard cycle life in the garage door industry is 10,000 cycles. Spring under 10,000 cycles are considered overstressed and are not recommended for use. If you would like to have more than 10,000 spring cycles, your new torsion springs will need to have a larger wire size.

The larger the wire, the longer it will take for the spring to break as thicker steel requires more bending before it breaks.

If you increase the wire size of your springs, you will also need to increase the length to keep the same lift and torque rating. On narrower, heavier doors it may also be necessary to increase the inside diameter to provide enough space on the shaft for the springs to fit.


Source
 
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WWheeler

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Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
The torsion springs on our single two car insulated garage door must be lubed. If you don't they will rub and get really noisy and fail much earlier than they should. Our old garage doors had extension springs and no, they don't need oiled/lubed because unlike torsion springs they stretch apart as the door is lowered so there's no friction/rubbing. If you don't know the difference you should probably let a pro service your broken spring.
 
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