This is my first post here. I searched but couldn't find an answer. I'm trying to move my garage door opener up and to the side to make clearance for a lift. I've got the to the side part down but can I move the opener to the ceiling? I have a 7' door and 10' ceiling so the distance between the track and door mount will be about 3 feet, is this possible? I'd like to do this so the opener won't interfere with opening some cabinet door. Thanks in advance.
Garage Door Opener Question
- Thread starter AZXRider
- Start date
Chris05gto
Well-known member
Not sure if I understand your question, look at this link maybe it may help.
New BendPak HD 9 4 Post Lift
New BendPak HD 9 4 Post Lift
Bigshed
Member
Go to this web site this may answer your question . http://ddmgaragedoors.com Look for high lift garage door conversion
Chris05gto
Well-known member
Go with a jack shaft opener, like I did.
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
upndown
Well-known member
I don't see anything good coming from that setup 
your door will never open all the way!!
your door will never open all the way!!I want to do the same thing but I believe you still need your lift mechanize centered on your door along the ceiling...and I was thinking you would add a section of straight channel going up the wall before the radius making the turn at the top...to get the garage door closer to the ceiling and out of the way of the lift and or vehicle parked out on it.
In my detached, I installed openers by Sommer in two bays. The maker's tech support told me on the phone that as long as I have the torsion spring above the door (as opposed to the long springs) the opener can be mounted on the side. I did this in the most used bay and it has worked fine.
Due to a power surge, we needed to have our attached garage opener replaced. The installer told me that the opener needs to pull as straight as possible and moved the unit down a bit from where it was to allow this.
You MUST raise the tracks (and I would think add a panel to the door), or you'll put all kinds of stress on the opener and the connection between the opener and door.
Plus, by leaving the tracks so low you'll also loose the clearance you're after when the door is open. Meaning, you'd have to use the lift with the door closed.
Due to a power surge, we needed to have our attached garage opener replaced. The installer told me that the opener needs to pull as straight as possible and moved the unit down a bit from where it was to allow this.
You MUST raise the tracks (and I would think add a panel to the door), or you'll put all kinds of stress on the opener and the connection between the opener and door.
Plus, by leaving the tracks so low you'll also loose the clearance you're after when the door is open. Meaning, you'd have to use the lift with the door closed.
This pic wasn't taken to show the offset...but perhaps this will work.
In the two bays where I installed the openers, I have 9' ceilings. One bay has a mid-rise lift and I wanted to make sure I didn't loose clearance with the opener. The bracket that mounts to the door was installed pretty much the same way as it would be in the middle...just on the door's top end. It's mounted just below the bracket for the wheel.
In the two bays where I installed the openers, I have 9' ceilings. One bay has a mid-rise lift and I wanted to make sure I didn't loose clearance with the opener. The bracket that mounts to the door was installed pretty much the same way as it would be in the middle...just on the door's top end. It's mounted just below the bracket for the wheel.
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I don't see anything good coming from that setup
I know that, I'm thinking the standard piece is to short, does someone make a longer arm to goes between the opener and the door. No I don't want to invest in a different opener I'll just lower this one if I have to.The geometry if the “L” going from the door top to the opener chain is going to be the problem.
You will need a longer arm and some trial and error experimenting.
I have just used hardware store slotted angle iron for the “L” extension.
It has lots of holes to play with.
If your door is balanced, the offset opener should be no problem.
You will need a longer arm and some trial and error experimenting.
I have just used hardware store slotted angle iron for the “L” extension.
It has lots of holes to play with.
If your door is balanced, the offset opener should be no problem.
Chris05gto
Well-known member
I agree & add a jack shaft opener........
upndown
Well-known member
I seem to be missing it too! Why do you need it against the ceiling? Not trying to be a pain..but you can't put the lift there anyway because of the horizontal track!! Lower the opener back down where it belongs and you should be good to go, unless you are going to install a high lift kit.
As mentioned before make sure your door is balanced properly and working smoothly or you'll get real good at rewinding cables.
As mentioned before make sure your door is balanced properly and working smoothly or you'll get real good at rewinding cables.
You guys don't live in AZ, no way you'll leave the door open most of the year, all the cold air gets out. The garage is deep enough that If I wanted to I could use the lift with the door open but since the opener is 2 feet deeper into the garage it's the only thing I have to worry about hitting. I thought I had seen something on here showing a similar setup but I guess not. I'll just lower the opener, hopefully it far enough to the side it's not an issue, if it is I'll have to get a high lift kit.
Anyways, Thanks for the help.
Anyways, Thanks for the help.
NewLogik
Well-known member
You really should consider going with High lift conversion, that way you'll gain clearance from your tracks being almost on the celling.
As for the opener, you should consider going with a Liftmaster 3800.
As for the opener, you should consider going with a Liftmaster 3800.
6t7gto
Well-known member
I bought one of my 4 post lifts from a fella that was relocating to the west coast.
I noticed in his garage, here in my area, he had the door opener against the ceiling with an extended arm to reach the door.
He said he had no problem with the operation of the door. And it was done by a garage door company.
I noticed in his garage, here in my area, he had the door opener against the ceiling with an extended arm to reach the door.
He said he had no problem with the operation of the door. And it was done by a garage door company.
Cardboard Man
Well-known member
This is no problem having the door operator offset to one side or the other if you have a torsion spring (you do), and providing that the door is balanced properly. I've had 2 of my doors like this for 10 years with no problems. I do believe, however, that you'll have to lower it back down in order that the trolley arm will not interfere with the bracing for the track. I actually understand what you're trying to do, but I don't think it will work the way you have it.
Kiwi_in_Paradise
Member
Just thinking outside the box, is there any reason that you don't replace the door with a Roller Door? There would then be nothing in the way of the lift when the door is either up or down?
94centennial
New member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Messages
- 2
i new to this forum. i replaced my conventional opener with a Wayne Dalton idrive opener. it mounts on the bar with the torsion spring directly above the door. it's real sick setup with nothing mounted from the ceiling. i liked it so much i brought two more.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
I have heard of several people that had reliability issues with those.
Garage Journal iDrive Discussion Thread
Added to which...I don't think they even make those anymore.
upndown
Well-known member
A number of people experienced employment changes because of that piece of ****!! Good concept, Poor design from day one.