roofster
Well-known member
I have a an Overhead door Legacy model chain drive opener made in 1998. It's worked well until this month or last month. The door is 16x7 in 4 sections. I weighed it once using a bathroom scale or 2 at 220 lbs. I had springs replaced once & did one or 2 myself later on. If I hold the wall switch it will fully open, but that doesn't work for closing.
I have reset the push button limits and adjusted the fine tune limit switches. Force settings are maxed out. The manual recommended a 14" J-bar length. It was at 12", but 14 has not solved the problems. The bracket is tight at the header.
I had to replace the header pully, due to running the carriage into it. There was a broken 5/16" bolt at the header bracket to T-rail joint. Not now. The manual says to adjust the chain to a 1/2" above the T-Bar. (Rail). Should that be to the top or bottom of the chain? Should I measure to the top or bottom of T- bar's thickness? I'm sure I'm over thinking this. A drawing would have been nice. I guess a 1/2" of clerance is what they mean? I have it set so the Top of the chain is 1/2" above the closet part of the t-bar. T-bar is about 1/8" thick. Chain is about 1/4" from top to bottom. The beam sensors are aligned and indicating they are "normal". Steady lights. I checked the hinges and have some striped threads in the door & at least 2 rusted and broke of self tapping 1/4-20 bolts or screws. Before I go buy new hinge fasteners or a new opener are there other things to do or check? The tracks look aligned and with tight fasteners. The roller Brackets are tight. Springs seem good, as I can open it with 1 arm and it will stay open at about 30". I don't want a smart opener. I have enough remotes for my dumb one. Can I run a smart one in dumb mode? I don't need a smart one hacked.
I have reset the push button limits and adjusted the fine tune limit switches. Force settings are maxed out. The manual recommended a 14" J-bar length. It was at 12", but 14 has not solved the problems. The bracket is tight at the header.
I had to replace the header pully, due to running the carriage into it. There was a broken 5/16" bolt at the header bracket to T-rail joint. Not now. The manual says to adjust the chain to a 1/2" above the T-Bar. (Rail). Should that be to the top or bottom of the chain? Should I measure to the top or bottom of T- bar's thickness? I'm sure I'm over thinking this. A drawing would have been nice. I guess a 1/2" of clerance is what they mean? I have it set so the Top of the chain is 1/2" above the closet part of the t-bar. T-bar is about 1/8" thick. Chain is about 1/4" from top to bottom. The beam sensors are aligned and indicating they are "normal". Steady lights. I checked the hinges and have some striped threads in the door & at least 2 rusted and broke of self tapping 1/4-20 bolts or screws. Before I go buy new hinge fasteners or a new opener are there other things to do or check? The tracks look aligned and with tight fasteners. The roller Brackets are tight. Springs seem good, as I can open it with 1 arm and it will stay open at about 30". I don't want a smart opener. I have enough remotes for my dumb one. Can I run a smart one in dumb mode? I don't need a smart one hacked.
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