Garage door spring interfering with ceiling insulation

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Finishing up the wall insulation and next step is to run ceiling insulation between the trusses. Then put up some 1x4 furring strips on the bottom of the trusses until I can figure out what ceiling material to go with.

The batt insulation install is pretty straight forward but I have a question on how to proceed where the torsion spring is mounted for my garage door, as it interferes with where the insulation would be going:

Anyone run into this... and what did you do?

I guess I can put up a strip of plywood mounted to the side of the truss to raise up where the insulation would go, so it sits above where that 2x4 running perpendicular to the trusses is. Kinda cheesy but not sure how else to do it?

I still have the problem of it interfering with the furring strips and ceiling material as well. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

I'm having a garage door company coming out within the next couple days. Because the upper tracks are about an inch too tall and will interfere with ceiling already (you can see, in the second pic, where the bottom of the truss closest to the torsion spring is already notched a little for door clearance when it gets raised). So I'm hoping it's possible to lower it by a little.

I'm going to ask him about what he thinks about the spring location then too, but figured I'd ask here since surely someone has run into this before.

 

[Gary S]

Box in above the spring and move that part of the insulation and ceiling up. The door spring is more important than the ceiling in a garage.

 

[upndown]

the original door installer is a Dip ****!!! You don't notch a ******* truss for a garage door, you cut the track...Are you going to hang sheetrock or plywood? If so make sure you mention that to your door co. Might be the same Knothead that hung it.

 

[darkk]

the original door installer is a Dip ****!!! You don't notch a ******* truss for a garage door, you cut the track...Are you going to hang sheetrock or plywood? If so make sure you mention that to your door co. Might be the same Knothead that hung it.

Your original door installer was a ******* retard. I'm not sure if you can drop the torsion bar or not, but it sure ain't right the way it is. He should have notified you of the clearance issue prior to installing the way he did if the assembly can't be installed lower. What you have there is a mess and your new installer is going to **** when he sees what the previous ******* did. Good luck.

 

[Jbullfrog]

All the doors i have installed, we put the spring within the triangle of the rail.

There is always a first time and you got the virgin installer.

 

[NewLogik]

As Gary said, you should box in above the springs and that way it won't be an issue with the insulation... I think it's the easiest thing to do...

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Garage was here before we bought the house. The notches aren't much, which is why I hadn't really noticed it until now... when I was seeing how much clearance between trusses and door. But ya when I realized what they were from I thought WTF.

All the doors i have installed, we put the spring within the triangle of the rail.

If that's a way to do it I'll ask the guy coming tomorrow. He has to adjust the spring tension and a few other things too (I think a previous owner backed a car or something into the track). But I don't think there is room to mount it in the triangle because the door sticks out too far from the rail. We'll see what he says tomorrow.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

As Gary said, you should box in above the springs and that way it won't be an issue with the insulation... I think it's the easiest thing to do...

I think that's what I'll look into. I'll (try to) use common sense when figuring out the best way to do it, however it there are any tricks or tips I would be all ears.

I'll also ask the door guy coming since they probably deal with that too.

For sure the top horizontal rail needs to come down about an inch or so otherwise the furring strips will at best drag on the door at some point.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

They make "low headroom" tracks. It might be as simple as replacing the top rails, and possibly cutting the top of the bottom rails. A good door company should be able to tell you more.

 

[The Lazy Destroyer]

Just wanted to update this thread. I had a garage door company come out and fix a few things. They installed a "quick turn" bracket on the door which keeps the door closer to the rail when going through the turn. Worked great and didn't require any changes to the rail. Probably lowered the clearance by 2", maybe more, so now have plenty of room for the ceiling.

They also were able to lower the door spring quite a bit, so it is also not in the way.

Overall pretty painless and didn't take very long at all.