jake00
Well-known member
Is this something a pro should replace? It's a 16x7. With a single spring.... I'm pretty competent, but have heard horror stories of about the stored energy in a spring.
Garage door spring just snapped...
- Thread starter jake00
- Start date
Scud67
Well-known member
yup, have a pro replace it.
ditto. it's not that hard for someone that does it all the time, so leave it to them
IMHO it's no big deal to replace it yourself if you'd rather. Just take it step by step.
The stored energy is no more than the potential energy of a car raised off the ground - something most of us do often - just with the right precautions. So take similar care and you'll be fine.
The stored energy is no more than the potential energy of a car raised off the ground - something most of us do often - just with the right precautions. So take similar care and you'll be fine.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
It can be done by a homeowner, but if you're not comfortable with the idea hire a garage door company. One of mine snapped a few years ago and since it was -20F that day I hired it out. 
It really wasn't that expensive, and he had the work done in about 20 minutes.
It really wasn't that expensive, and he had the work done in about 20 minutes.gnpenning
Well-known member
You can do it yourself. Just be real smart about what you do. You will need to know the inside dia of the spring, the length, and wire size to get the new spring. Also if it is a left or right hand wound spring. With one spring you can get either side but need to put it on the correct side when you install.
MAke sure your winding bars fit snug in the holes. Run a line of paint down the spring to help keep track of your winds.
MAke sure your winding bars fit snug in the holes. Run a line of paint down the spring to help keep track of your winds.
fasteddie313
Well-known member
Respect that spring, it could F u up if you dont...
My .02
My .02
Garageguy65
Well-known member
Jake. If you have a pro do it ask them to replace the spring with extended cycle springs. While the normal cycle springs may be 15000 cycles. The extended cycle springs may be 25000. They are not that much more.
Need more information . . . . What kind of door ?? Typical steel (either insulated or uninsulated)?? Or very heavy wood ??
What are your plans?? If upgrading garage door in future (ie heavier), then go with 2 springs rather than just one.
NEED PICS . . . . Let's SEE what you've got.
What are your plans?? If upgrading garage door in future (ie heavier), then go with 2 springs rather than just one.
NEED PICS . . . . Let's SEE what you've got.
Greeny
Well-known member
I just replaced my springs a couple weeks ago. My door has two. Watched a couple youtube videos, including how to identify the spring size, diameter and length, ordered them off ebay, and swapped them out in about 90 minutes. Several videos mentioned replacing single springs with double springs. Wasn't difficult, just followed the basic safety info found on the videos. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
BillK
Well-known member
Jake,
I have replaced the springs on both of my garages and it is pretty easy in my opinion. This guys web site gives you all the information you need:
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/index.php
That being said, most places don't charge too much to do the job if you don't feel comfortable with it.
I have replaced the springs on both of my garages and it is pretty easy in my opinion. This guys web site gives you all the information you need:
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/index.php
That being said, most places don't charge too much to do the job if you don't feel comfortable with it.
TrailerBuilder
Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2014
- Messages
- 10
The spring broke because you didn't install it in the first place. Do it yourself this time and get a spring with 50,000 cycles. It's not much more. This is the simplest job in the world. All the info you need is here:
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
And this place is GREAT for springs. Their spring page will even tell you how many cycles your spring will last based on number of winding turns:
http://www.americandoorsupply.com/Garage-Door-Springs-s/1825.htm
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
And this place is GREAT for springs. Their spring page will even tell you how many cycles your spring will last based on number of winding turns:
http://www.americandoorsupply.com/Garage-Door-Springs-s/1825.htm
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It is a comfort level thing.
Do you feel OK learning how to replace a spark plug on a lawn mower?
If not, hire a guy that knows what he is doing.
Do you have a feel adventure?
Then go for it.
I am 71 years old.
My father was WW II Aircraft carrier airplane mechanic.
“Patch them and fly them.”
He taught me a lot.
I pulled down my first V8 at 14.
I am comfortable taking on many projects.
I also call in the pro when I think I may be over my head.
There is a huge amount of knowldge shared on the intenet these days.
Make use of it.
Do you feel OK learning how to replace a spark plug on a lawn mower?
If not, hire a guy that knows what he is doing.
Do you have a feel adventure?
Then go for it.
I am 71 years old.
My father was WW II Aircraft carrier airplane mechanic.
“Patch them and fly them.”
He taught me a lot.
I pulled down my first V8 at 14.
I am comfortable taking on many projects.
I also call in the pro when I think I may be over my head.
There is a huge amount of knowldge shared on the intenet these days.
Make use of it.
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
This is one area where I have yet to tackle. We were on vacation and mom was house sitting. Either 189 or 289. I don't recall which. 2007. My gut says phone it in.
LifeLongWNYer
Well-known member
A normal garage door spring replacement is not a problem if you move slowly and don't try to rush it. I've done quite a few of the stretch type springs ( run along side and parallel to track ) and a couple of the torsion type, with no problems.
However I once worked for the highway department and watched a guy replace the torsion spring in a 16' wide x 14' high door. It went well until he was nearing the end of winding the spring up. One of the winding bars slipped out of his hand and the spring unwound itself. The other bar punctured a hole in the back wall of the building ( thin sheet metal shell ) and was on the ground behind the building. No injuries, but it sure cranked up our heart rate.
JBP
.
However I once worked for the highway department and watched a guy replace the torsion spring in a 16' wide x 14' high door. It went well until he was nearing the end of winding the spring up. One of the winding bars slipped out of his hand and the spring unwound itself. The other bar punctured a hole in the back wall of the building ( thin sheet metal shell ) and was on the ground behind the building. No injuries, but it sure cranked up our heart rate.
JBP
.
HICKS
Well-known member
It's very simple to do. After you do it, you'll wonder why you even thought of calling someone. Save some money and hit up the you tube.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
The spring mechanism is called an operator. There are videos and walk throughs for different types of springs on line. I have never done a garage door one but I have done a couple of tractor trailer ones. They do have a lot of tension once they are wound but they typically come unwound and then you wind them after they are hung in place.
They aren't particularly hard to do but there are some safety precautions you should take. They make actual winding bars just for this purpose and sometimes they are threaded so the can't fall out like one post described. We use two bars one to start and brace against the wall (or in our case the door from inside the trailer) and the second to start winding. And you switch between the two until you reach the right tension. There is usually some sort of rule of thumb from the manufacturer of the operator. Some say x number of turns, some say to paint a stripe on the spring and count the lines as it turns until you reach x. Some say to lift the door after every so many turns and stop when it stays in position rather than raising or dropping on its own, etc.
All that being said, I use cold rolled steel. I bought mine at a local store 1/2" x 36" long and I cut it in half and tapered the ends a little so they fit well. You run the chance of them falling out but if you are careful and don't let go unless it is braced up against the wall it works fine. I haven't had one fall out yet. But the holes in ours are threaded and the actual bars are too so they can't fall out. I'm assuming that is for a reason. Personally I would be comfortable doing it myself. Just make sure you do enough research on yours so you fully understand the risks and can easily mitigate them.
Good luck.
They aren't particularly hard to do but there are some safety precautions you should take. They make actual winding bars just for this purpose and sometimes they are threaded so the can't fall out like one post described. We use two bars one to start and brace against the wall (or in our case the door from inside the trailer) and the second to start winding. And you switch between the two until you reach the right tension. There is usually some sort of rule of thumb from the manufacturer of the operator. Some say x number of turns, some say to paint a stripe on the spring and count the lines as it turns until you reach x. Some say to lift the door after every so many turns and stop when it stays in position rather than raising or dropping on its own, etc.
All that being said, I use cold rolled steel. I bought mine at a local store 1/2" x 36" long and I cut it in half and tapered the ends a little so they fit well. You run the chance of them falling out but if you are careful and don't let go unless it is braced up against the wall it works fine. I haven't had one fall out yet. But the holes in ours are threaded and the actual bars are too so they can't fall out. I'm assuming that is for a reason. Personally I would be comfortable doing it myself. Just make sure you do enough research on yours so you fully understand the risks and can easily mitigate them.
Good luck.
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