Garage Door Spring Question

[Skyking1992]

At my Mothers house, the garage door sits high on one end. The slab appears to be level, but the door sits about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch high on one end.

I disconnected the opener and the door is balanced pretty well and will sit mid travel on its own.

So I thought this would be a simple job of taking a little tension off the high side. The springs are torsion springs, but unlike the modern springs I'm used to seeing. There is one spring on each side, with no shaft connecting the two sides. The spring is probably twice the diameter of the springs I'm used to seeing - maybe 8 inches in diameter.

I don't see any tension adjustment. Any ideas?

House was built approx early 50's. Door is 16 feet and is wood. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow.

 

[BillK]

This guy has a ton of good information on his site.

https://ddmgaragedoors.com/springs/garage-door-springs.php

 

[Pluribus]

Believe I've watched the videos on the site BillK linked to above. Definitely watch them and maybe others before messing with the springs! There's a whole bunch of stored energy in torsion springs, and you can really get hurt if you don't know what you're doing. It's not rocket science, so a little knowledge and a few specific tools should be able to get you through it.

 

[Skyking1992]

I spent quite some time on that web site, but still didn't see the springs I'm looking at. And yes, I know about the dangers of messing with the springs. I just may hire this out to someone with way more skills than me.

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

 

[gnpenning]

Pictures would help.

Verify slab level. Also check level of door.

And please don't try taking tension off the high side.

 

[Jlbc212]

Without a common shaft between the torsion springs each spring acts independently like stretch springs. There was a door manufacturer years ago that made and sold such a setup. There was no winding cones on the torsion springs. The springs had to be tensioned with the door locked in the up position. This could be the setup your Mom has, but a picture would be helpful. You probably should call in a professional to make the adjustment.

 

[firebirdparts]

The door obeys its own squareness, so keep in mind the sides also will have to change if the bottom changes.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Did you disconnect the opener from the door and let the door all the way down to the ground?

You said you disconnected it and had it sit at the mid point of the opening, but you didn't mention whether or not you let the door go all the way down to the ground while disconnected from the opener.

Sometimes the springs on the door can hold it at mid point on their own, and appear fine. But once the door goes all the way down to the ground, if something is wrong with the springs, one side of the door can sit up higher than the other due to issues with the springs, cables, pulleys or rollers.

Let us know if the door sits flush to the ground while disconnected from the opener.

Jim

 

[kbs2244]

As mentioned, some time back they sold an update to the stretch springs with a torsion spring per side.
They were not connected and could put uneven pull in the door.
It takes time and patience to get them even.

If you are going to call for help, be sure they send an "old timer" with experience on this type of springs.
The young guys probably have never seen one.

 

[Skyking1992]

OK here's a couple pics. I did not check to see how the door sits on the slab without the opener attached. I'll take a look at that the next time I get over there. Thanks for all the help.

 

[kbs2244]

That looks like what I have seen.
I have no personal experience, but I can see how it would replace the stretch idea.
And the possibility of uneven pull is there for sure.

 

[Jlbc212]

Those springs were not replacements for stretch springs, they are just a different torsion spring design. As i mentioned in an earlier post they are tensioned when the door is locked in the up position. If I remember correctly there should be a metal clip that holds the tension on the spring while being wound. It's been years since I worked on one. Maybe with a picture of the side by the cable drum would jog my memory. The rule of thumb was to make one full turn on the spring with the door in the up position. It's a bit of a trick as the cable must be wound on the drum somehow after winding one full turn on the spring (yes, I am an old-timer and I'm straining my brain to remember) and you have to work between the bottom of the door and the header. One full turn on the spring should provide just enough tension to hold the door in the up position and to keep sufficient tension on the cable.

Those spring setups were old when I worked on them over forty years ago. Tell your Mom she needs a new door!