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Garage Doors/Interior Wall?? Please help

foamer01

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Oct 18, 2011
Messages
245
I will preface this question with I typically over think things and sometimes a bit OCD. I am currently installing steel liner panels on my ceiling. I am to the garage door track. This looks easy enough, just drop the track a little slide the panel in and re-install. The problem I am seeing at this point is my unfinished walls. The garage doors are installed right up against the studs and header, in order to finish these walls it appears I will have to move the three garage doors out 1/2" for wall board ( I HATE THE THOUGHT OF MOVING THESE DOORS), and if I move the doors out 1/2" the track will also move and the hole I put in the steel ceiling panel will no longer work. I feel like I am opening a can of worms trying to put wall board between the studs and garage doors. Any thoughts of how you have or would handle this situation. Thanks for reading about my issue.
Foamer
 
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PassnThru

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Jan 5, 2010
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Bowling Green KY
I assume that you are talking about the connection to the ceiling at the end of the track that holds it up.
There is no structural reason that this has to be perfectly plumb.
I did the same thing - my doors were hung before I finished my ceiling and my walls. I did the ceiling first. When I reattached my track supports I just set it back a little bit knowing that they would move back when I finished the door wall. They had a noticeable tilt to them at that point. When I finished the door wall they looked more plumb. I don't know if they are perfectly plumb at this point or not but it really doesn't matter. They look OK and they are structurally sound.
 
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foamer01

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Oct 18, 2011
Messages
245
Actually I am more concerned with the wall where the garage door and spring are bolted to. They are bolted directly to the studs and header, typical installation. Now I want to finish that wall, is my only option to unbolt the doors and track and move them out the thickness of the wall board? I certainly am not the best at explaining things :). Thanks for your help.
Foamer
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
How about ending the siding right beside the garage door track ? Just cap or wrap the end of the siding to finish it off.


If we're not on the same page, posting a pic always helps.
 

PassnThru

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Bowling Green KY
I see now. I did actually unbolt the doors to put a trim piece where the door tracks and the spring were mounted. This did involve releasing the pressure on the spring because I also removed the door panels. If you aren't willing to do that then you really can't trim out underneath the track mounts.
 
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foamer01

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Oct 18, 2011
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Here are a couple of pics.
Thanks,
Foamer
 

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calven

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Sep 18, 2011
Messages
54
Location
Indiana
I will preface this question with I typically over think things and sometimes a bit OCD. I am currently installing steel liner panels on my ceiling. I am to the garage door track. This looks easy enough, just drop the track a little slide the panel in and re-install. The problem I am seeing at this point is my unfinished walls. The garage doors are installed right up against the studs and header, in order to finish these walls it appears I will have to move the three garage doors out 1/2" for wall board ( I HATE THE THOUGHT OF MOVING THESE DOORS), and if I move the doors out 1/2" the track will also move and the hole I put in the steel ceiling panel will no longer work. I feel like I am opening a can of worms trying to put wall board between the studs and garage doors. Any thoughts of how you have or would handle this situation. Thanks for reading about my issue.
Foamer

I too am running into the same issue - the best option is to bite the bullet and take down the entire door and spring line, do the wall work then reinstall the garage door. This type of work should take about an hour. Or you can simply install drywall around the wood jambs/studs.

Remember that after you reinstall the door you MAY need longer LAG screws. Safe installation calls for a proper amount of the screw into the studs. Do not re-use the ones you have - you will need longer ones to account for the wall material thickness.
 

captaingofast

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
21
Location
Ontario, Canada
I have the same situation as well. My solution will be to use 1/8 hardboard on the wall for the first 8" above the door. I have already used a piece to check for clearance when the door goes up and it's fine. I will be fastening a 1x3 to the bottom side of the OSB above the hardboard so there's something to fasten it to along the seam between the two types of wall board. I hope that makes sense for you.
 
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