Garage entry pad questions

[L5wolvesf]

I am considering putting in a pad outside my garage door to extend the smooth automotive working space I have available. It would be 9 ft wide (width of the garage door opening) by 12 ft long (if county does not nix that for set back from the road). My questions are, what do I need to make it a solid pad? What specs on the concrete, or should I go with asphalt? Cost is an concern and is part of what I am trying to figure out. How much of a cost difference is there between concrete and asphalt, generally speaking? How deep should it be? Does it have to have rebar, and if yes how much? The garage floor inside is concrete. There is probably more but that’s all I can think of right now.

Thank you,
Larry

 

[NUTTSGT]

At 6" thick, that's only two yards. Most concrete plants have a minimum yardage or you get hit with a smal load charge. If you're going to pay for it, you might as well get the concrete.

I tied the apron on my garage to the footer of the garage with rebar. I also added some wire in the form too. I'd make the apron wider than the door and give yourself a wider work area to use.

Since you are in Az, northern though, make sure you take care of any frost line stuff. It may not be a real problem for you. Possibly make the pour deeper along the garage foundation and along the edges, similar to a monolithic pour.

I'd steer clear of the asphalt when the sun hits it, it'll be hot as hell and make your garage hotter too. It'll get soft under the sun too and oils/gasoline will attack it.

 

[regguy1]

If you're going to ever need to use floor jack or stands out there concrete is the way to go. I have a concrete pad in front of my garage, I had the builder dig down and put a 12" gravel base in, he argued and said it will cost *** extra....I said just do it. It was poured in Sept. 1984 and there's not so much as a crack in it to this day. Every time I look at it I'm glad I spent the extra money for long term quality.

 

[NCCheesehead]

Around here you would have a hard time finding a asphalt company to pave that small section with any type of quality. Concrete is the way to go. You will be close to the minium order of 2 yards for contractors around here (one time customers is 3 yards). Rebar/wire is optional in the slab but definately drill some holes into mating edge of your garage slab and add some 12-18" rebar pieces to the joint to eliminate the "settling" or the new slab

 

[BWS]

Probably shouldn't reply for a variety of engineering reasons....duh.


Go to....don't do it over the phone....over to your local concrete plant.Explain exactly what you're trying to do.Give them the size,load requirements,expectations.Then see what their recomendations are....this is important because these folks have a better understanding of climate and requirements in your area than folks making WAG's on the net.Further,alot of concrete contractors have their interests WAY ahead of your interests.So unless you have a real good working relationship with said contractor,their input is sort of suspect.

Now for the good part......whilst chatting it up with concrete plant dicks(and go when they aren't busy,duh)....find out if they ever have overuns or "disposable" loads of concrete going through your area.Touchy subject as you don't want to sound like a cheap-azz.But theres a tremendous amt of concrete that gets "dumped".And can be had on the mega cheap.

Obviously you have to make it extremely convenient for them........forms that can be placed on prepared stakes in minutes,all this beforehand.Making it a no-brainer for them is what you're trying for here.

Now,if theres any question of engineering or special needs to above.....then forget it.You're just gonna piss'm off and you'd be way ahead just payin somebody to do it.Best of luck,BW

 

[L5wolvesf]

Thanks guys, all good stuff.

L

 

[Falcon67]

Concrete is typically cheaper than asphalt. Around here, you'd pay about 4.50 sq/ft for a concrete pad. 4" thick, 3/8" rebar, no footers. "flat work" - driveways and parking pads.

 

[L5wolvesf]

How do I calculate yards from cubic ft?

Thank you,
L

 

[rlitman]

1 yard is 27 cubic feet.

 

[38Chevy454]

How do I calculate yards from cubic ft?

Thank you,
L

1 yard is 27 cubic feet.

Just to provide more detail on how 27 cu ft is calculated:

1 cubic yard = 1 yard x 1 yard x 1 yard
1 yard = 3 ft
1 cubic yard = 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft = 27 cubic ft.

 

[gatchel]

1 yard covers 81 square feet at 4" thick
1 yard covers 54 square feet at 6" thick

On a small load, order a bit more than what you calculate so you have enough. For the extra $50 (1/2 yard) or so it's well worth it.

 

[L5wolvesf]

I'd make the apron wider than the door and give yourself a wider work area to use.

Just so I understand this clearly . . . you're saying make the edges 6" and toward the center 4"?

Thank you,
L

 

[timewarp]

Just so I understand this clearly . . . you're saying make the edges 6" and toward the center 4"?

Thank you,
L

A thickend edge a little deeper is good, but that's not what he's saying.
He's saying to make the slab wider than the door, a 9' wide slab doesn't leave much on each side of a car, I'd make the slab at least 12' wide so that you would have some room on the slab on each side of a car parked on the slab. Wider would be even better. most cars are 6-7 feet wide so if you want to roll under a car on a creeper you need about 4' of concrete to roll the creeper on next to the car, so if the car is 6' wide and you want 4' on each side you need 14'.

 

[L5wolvesf]

Ooopps . . . my bad, clipped out the wrong quote. It should have been . . .

Possibly make the pour deeper along the garage foundation and along the edges, similar to a monolithic pour.

Just so I understand this clearly . . . you're saying make the edges 6" and toward the center 4" or so?

Thank you,
L