garage extension options

[alfa72]

Hi,

currently have a split level house with a one car garage. I don't have a basement but a crawl space. I am tossing around a few ideas in my head. The easiest option would be to put the garage in the yard but that would ruin the space in the yard. The next would be to build to the left but I would be really close to my neighbors walkway also I would have to put an additional garage door in the rear so I can to go to the yard with lawnmowers and other items. I would then remove the load bearing wall in red with a beam going across. The final and most expensive option which is to excavate below the house and create a basement and underground garage. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. The 2 cars aren't big about the size of a 2009 Toyota Corolla.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm looking at the laundry room. can you relocate that ?

 

[Stuart in MN]

Could you add a two stall garage in front of the house, like this?

 

[CombatNinja]

I vote for you to move. You'll be money ahead in the end.

 

[nolimits76]

Sounds like all bad options. Second the vote to move & start with better "bones".

I can't see the entire front elevation of your house, but adding a garage to the front might work. Maybe the best option of the group, and then you can leave the 1 car bay and then you can advertise the house as having a 3-car tandem garage when you do sell later on.

The thing I dislike about this option is it puts a 20'+/- box that makes your front entry feel "sunk" in. Might be awkward as you approach. Also, depending on aesthetics it may create other issues as well.

Again, moving sounds better in this case.

 

[alfa72]

The architect suggested moving the laundry upstairs but that would be a big ordeal, I would have to create another landing and rooms. Removing the wall would give me alot of clearance, and my cars are small, '72 240z and '72 GTV. The driveway slopes down a good amount and I have a well in front of the garage door.

Going to the left might be the easiest, my neighbor and I will split putting in privacy trees since the currents trees are not that good. Our properties are relatively close to each other anyway. I'll still have a emergency walkway as there is a variance of 2' from the property line, I might just go another feet or 2. I was also considering building a long 1.5 wide garage on the backyard so instead of going wide I would go along the fence.

Unfortunately moving isn't an option. I think ill start with taking the wall down and see how it goes from there.

 

[Slednut]

Do what Stuart said and only make it 12' out toward the driveway. Add a living space above the addition and call that the den and run the garage clear to the back of the house. Put the washer, dryer and sink in the garage.

My attached garage is 26x56' and it's great.

 

[alfa72]

I wish I could touch the den, lol I would take all that space. Unfortunately I can't, also coming out 12' would make the property look awkward. I could move the washer and dryer to the attic, that would give me some space. also the guest bedroom is above the garage.

No one likes the idea of going towards the left? That's all unused space, the only annoying part would be opening 2 garage doors and technically going through the house to go to the yard. I have a small entrance to the yard to the other side, but it's simply walking no machines or anything can go on that side.

 

[CraigStu]

Going out to the left is doable. I have had that done twice on different houses. The problem I see is the windows to the bedroom that would be gone if you did a typical truss supported roof. 'Maybe' you could do a shed roof that starts just below the windows but there are requirements for a minimum slope which would limit how wide it could be. You could fudge that wider if you could accept the outer wall being shorter. This pic is for a room addition but it gives the idea on the roof.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/7e/8a/21/7e8a2155b5c942e4e1bd6808777920ad--garage-roof-porch-roof.jpg

This shows the inside. The green ceiling on either side of the window dormer is what your addition might look like.

https://www.thoughtco.com/thmb/wdnodkbxCHigf5K2D54MHWQ4JKo=/5253x3373/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/dormer-interior-88799558-57ce29033df78c71b6b52da1.jpg

 

[mogandave]

I would go to the left and have the rear door making it a "drive-through"

If your bedrooms are upstairs, your laundry should be upstairs as well. Why carry laundry up and down stairs?

 

[alfa72]

yes, that would be the best bet to make a drive thru. The laundry was setup that way.

 

[billconner]

I like the one car wide addition on left. Less money spent on tearing up what is there, and more square footage is usually a plus at sales time.

My concern is setback and side yard line. Even if zoning doesnt limit you, building codes might, usually requiring 5' from property line.

One other option if you can live with a tandem garage, a one car addition on front, so no major widening of driveway as left will require, and do a flat roof that is habitable - a "deck" of sorts. Could be quite pleasant. Does not disturb much, even reuse garage door to save money. Very simple, just don't pinch pennies on roof membrane.

 

[dcg9381]

The issue with going to the front appears to be that your driveway is going to drain into the garage. Not many "good" options here unfortunately.

 

[andyvh1959]

If you go to the left, go as far as you can. Since its attached to the house that means you need a full foundation wall, assuming you need to go down at least four feet, or full depth to the current footings. Also, you have some grade there to deal with to the neighbors yard. Right now it all drains into that space you propose the garage will take up. If you do the extension with a full foundation make it high enough to plan for the grade issues. That means a lot of excavating down to the current footings, putting in proper footings, proper drain tile, proper backfill (not soil, but about a foot wide of compacted gravel ). Perhaps have the extension start three to four feet BACK from the current face to add some character and the option for a 36" service door into the garage. Also, with the front face of the extension held back you may not have to relocate your power line coming into the house and the meter currently on that wall. What about that vent pipe coming out of the current exterior wall, is that for the furnace? You'd have to plan for that as well.

Proper drainage for the grade around the extension and for the extra driveway width on the front is critical to avoid future issues. Plus like said you may have to address current grade/drainage issues with the current garage. May have to hire an engineer and contractor to plan this all out before deciding one way or another. You have a large tree to take out for good access to the extension, figure $2500 to $4000 just to get rid of the tree. If I had to guess you're looking at $75,000+ for this garage extension project.

Also, the den level at the back of the house must be just above back yard grade level, and the back of the extension would at be at current garage slab level, so how could you have a pass through door at the back to access the back yard? Seems like the garage extension would go to the rear wall of the den, at current garage slab level, which would require three to four steps up to get to backyard grade level (like the exterior steps do now). A pass through door at the back of the extension would be higher up than the current garage level.

 

[alfa72]

If you go to the left, go as far as you can. Since its attached to the house that means you need a full foundation wall, assuming you need to go down at least four feet, or full depth to the current footings. Also, you have some grade there to deal with to the neighbors yard. Right now it all drains into that space you propose the garage will take up. If you do the extension with a full foundation make it high enough to plan for the grade issues. That means a lot of excavating down to the current footings, putting in proper footings, proper drain tile, proper backfill (not soil, but about a foot wide of compacted gravel ). Perhaps have the extension start three to four feet BACK from the current face to add some character and the option for a 36" service door into the garage. Also, with the front face of the extension held back you may not have to relocate your power line coming into the house and the meter currently on that wall. What about that vent pipe coming out of the current exterior wall, is that for the furnace? You'd have to plan for that as well.

Proper drainage for the grade around the extension and for the extra driveway width on the front is critical to avoid future issues. Plus like said you may have to address current grade/drainage issues with the current garage. May have to hire an engineer and contractor to plan this all out before deciding one way or another. You have a large tree to take out for good access to the extension, figure $2500 to $4000 just to get rid of the tree. If I had to guess you're looking at $75,000+ for this garage extension project.

Also, the den level at the back of the house must be just above back yard grade level, and the back of the extension would at be at current garage slab level, so how could you have a pass through door at the back to access the back yard? Seems like the garage extension would go to the rear wall of the den, at current garage slab level, which would require three to four steps up to get to backyard grade level (like the exterior steps do now). A pass through door at the back of the extension would be higher up than the current garage level.

Yes, you are correct the den is on the backyard level, good eye! I like the idea of pushing it back so I don't have to rewire the main line.

The the vent pipe is no longer used as the new system has pipes going upto the roof.

I see a big issue now with the rear door. I would have to excavate the yard so it's level with the garage and then slope the yard upwards because carrying a lawnmower up the stairs or any machinery up some stairs is not a easy task. I would also have to put significant drainage or a well like I have in front of my current garage.


Sigh...this is getting depressing!!

 

[andyvh1959]

Thought I was getting way too wordy,...again. Maybe extend the garage to the back wall of the den, with a door at yard level. In the garage build a platform to match the rear door level. A storage platform big enough to store the yard stuffs, with a stop rail on the inside that can be removed if you need to lower the lawnmower, snowblower, whatever down to the garage slab level. Use the area under the platform for seasonal storage or supplies, etc. Could have a plywood ramp hinged to the platform to tip down when yard machinery needs to get down to the garage floor level.

 

[mogandave]

Depending on the tree, he might be able to sell it.

 

[alfa72]

not at all!

I'm trying to picture this. So the front garage door would be lower than the rear garage door or same height and build a ramp inside the garage going up to the yard?

 

[alfa72]

Depending on the tree, he might be able to sell it.

haha! I tried this, no one seemed interested. it's a huge maple.

 

[CraigStu]

Sorry I missed the electrical meter. I had that exact problem 2 houses ago. The builder said it would be a huge expense to move it so we did as andyvh1959 suggests, moved the front wall back to clear the electrical.

 

[D45]

My electric meter didn't have to be moved, its now inside the garage addition

I have a lean to style garage addition built off the side of my house

 

[dougf]

I vote for expanding to the left and making it a drive-thru with a cement pad to park things on to the left of the den.

If budget doesn't allow that, the wash room sink and appliances would go against the bedroom wall and the wall you circled would be removed.

 

[andyvh1959]

Even without moving the electrical, and moving the front of the extension back enough to clear the meters, you may still have to contend with the buried service entrance cable. First off contact your power company and have them examine it to determine the cable routing and its depth. Since you'd need a full foundation wall for the extension, the service entrance cable would have to be contained in some way so the foundation wall can be poured around it. If the cable is enclosed in conduit already then the foundation wall can be poured with the conduit passing through the foundation forms. Hopefully you don't have to relocate the power cable just to suit the foundation installation.

It all first comes down to codes, setbacks, power lines, foundation planning, drainage plans, grades examinations, tree removal, just to determine the feasibility of building an extension to the left. If all that is determined and cleared, then its $$$$ and contractors.

 

[OCD]

Yes, you are correct the den is on the backyard level, good eye! I like the idea of pushing it back so I don't have to rewire the main line.

The the vent pipe is no longer used as the new system has pipes going upto the roof.

I see a big issue now with the rear door. I would have to excavate the yard so it's level with the garage and then slope the yard upwards because carrying a lawnmower up the stairs or any machinery up some stairs is not a easy task. I would also have to put significant drainage or a well like I have in front of my current garage.


Sigh...this is getting depressing!!

If the left side is level with the back yard, I would build the garage at that height... Then move the retaining wall over, and slope the front driveway down... You could put a door at the back too and have a drive thru garage... Loss would be the side windows of the house, and different height garages... I imagine that would be pretty pricey though!!

 

[andyvh1959]

Could be some merit to that idea. Move the extension back far enough (20 feet?) to extend into the back yard, with an overhead door opening into the yard facing behind the den. Have the front of the extension back far enough to allow the driveway to slope down to the original driveway. Still have to address the drainage issues, slope the driveway to the extension to the left lot line so it drains away from the house and down to the front of the house. Possibly extend the roof of the extension forward to provide a carport area, which also would help direct the rain away from the house to the left lot line.

 

[alfa72]

i'm going to post more pics of the yard and side.

 

[nolimits76]

A few thoughts

1. Keep the footprint as-is. Relocate washer, dryer and sink to work in a smaller footprint. Add a wall and door for privacy, heat, etc. Wife approval suggested for your survival.




2. Small add on the left and reconfigure the space as noted above. Maximum garage space. Serious wife approval needed, so neither your nor GJ members are harmed.




3. A compromise of sorts. Realign the utility space, still providing a true enclosed area except smaller. Expand out and get a full size garage. Provide backyard access directly from garage (had this before and really liked it). Most likely to be approved by the wife, pending budget review.

 

[alfa72]

A few thoughts

1. Keep the footprint as-is. Relocate washer, dryer and sink to work in a smaller footprint. Add a wall and door for privacy, heat, etc. Wife approval suggested for your survival.




2. Small add on the left and reconfigure the space as noted above. Maximum garage space. Serious wife approval needed, so neither your nor GJ members are harmed.




3. A compromise of sorts. Realign the utility space, still providing a true enclosed area except smaller. Expand out and get a full size garage. Provide backyard access directly from garage (had this before and really liked it). Most likely to be approved by the wife, pending budget review.

These are great ideas, the first one looks the easiest. Do you have photos of your setup?

 

[nolimits76]

These are great ideas, the first one looks the easiest. Do you have photos of your setup?

Assume you mean the man door leading out to the backyard? I'm not really sure. That has been 3-4 houses ago. However, it was relatively simple. I had a 3 car garage. The two main bays ended like a normal garage. The left single car bay was "indented" a few feet from where the 2 bay started and also ran deeper than the primary 2 bay. I had a small work bench against the wall where the man door was located. Outside the door, I had a hard 90 degree angle like you would have and I had a small concrete slab.

 

[jkuro]

Check with your city for the side yard building line. You may not have as much room to the left as you think.

 

[nolimits76]

Check with your city for the side yard building line. You may not have as much room to the left as you think.

Agree. I think building code and/or easements will limit construction. Even if not, there are other natural elements to consider:

1. Unless you want to add tree removal to the list, the red line is an approximate "natural building line" as you don't want your garage to extend out so it's behind the tree. It does appear the tree is in front the existing house by a few feet, but if you push out too far, you will have to swerve around the tree to get into the garage. Depending on proximity, etc. that will be a mess.

2. Additionally there is a grade change about where the red line is located. The bottom of the fence is substantially higher, so there will be a drainage issue that needs addressed along that plane.

3. I'm assuming you'd want to come a few feet away from the tree (green dimension) which would leave the actual possible build width (blue).

4. Electric located on the house (purple) will need to be relocated. Assume the main panel is on the inside of that exterior garage wall. This will add additional expense you may or may not have considered.

5. For all practical purposes your side yard will be gone, so the retaining wall steps will also need removed. You will likely need to extend the retaining wall to the new bump out.

6. Looking down the plane of the red line again, the trees further back may be a problem. I am not sure how those align in respect to the depth of the garage. At the least, you'd need to trim or possibly remove.

 

[CombatNinja]

Said it before and I'll say it again: if you have to have a bigger garage/shop, move.

 

[kwb]

You are going to spend cubic dollars for a very small shop space.

Even with transaction costs - moving is probably better option, even if it is to a house a couple doors down with a better lot/siting of the house.