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Garage heater
- Thread starter 91.5mm
- Start date
TheNerd
Well-known member
You will need to replace the orifice in the gas valve. The Natural gas furnace uses a larger orifice than the Propane furnace.
Also, natural gas is usually set at 3 to 3.5 in. W.C. Where as Propane is set at 10.5 to 11 in. W.C. You will need a manometer to adjust the Water column pressure. This is bassically the pressure at wich the gas enters the gas valve..
The orifice is a little brass threaded thing with a small hole in it that the gas passes through as it enters in through the gas valve.
Any HVAC guy should be able to tell ya if the parts are still available. I no longer work in that field. Let us know what you find out.
Also, natural gas is usually set at 3 to 3.5 in. W.C. Where as Propane is set at 10.5 to 11 in. W.C. You will need a manometer to adjust the Water column pressure. This is bassically the pressure at wich the gas enters the gas valve..
The orifice is a little brass threaded thing with a small hole in it that the gas passes through as it enters in through the gas valve.
Any HVAC guy should be able to tell ya if the parts are still available. I no longer work in that field. Let us know what you find out.
ambenz
Well-known member
I agree with "The Nerd".
I worked making converorized pizza ovens for Blodgett and we made them for natural and propane.
If I remember right, the kit includes different springs for the regulator and a correct size orafice.
Good info right there!!!
I worked making converorized pizza ovens for Blodgett and we made them for natural and propane.
If I remember right, the kit includes different springs for the regulator and a correct size orafice.
Good info right there!!!
fishheds
Well-known member
Frequently,when converting simply inverting the cap will adjust spring pressure.LP has a "bump" to raise the tension while the natural side is sorta countersunk to lower to the 3.5-7 in.range.Read the directions and it's pretty simple and straightforward.
Also,if it's going in the garage,check code on minimum floor clearance,usually 18 inches.The reason being,flammable vapors usually(natural gas excepted) have a specific gravity higher than 1 and getting the appliance off the floor reduces the likelihhod of a fire/explosion from gasoline vapor pooling along the floor.This is the reason gas water heaters in the garage are always sitting on platforms.You also want to be careful while using volatile chemicals for the same reason.
I'm not familiar with the unit you're looking into,but if it's just a garage heater,I'd recommend vent free.99.9% efficient,versus whatever the Carrier is rated.
Also,if it's going in the garage,check code on minimum floor clearance,usually 18 inches.The reason being,flammable vapors usually(natural gas excepted) have a specific gravity higher than 1 and getting the appliance off the floor reduces the likelihhod of a fire/explosion from gasoline vapor pooling along the floor.This is the reason gas water heaters in the garage are always sitting on platforms.You also want to be careful while using volatile chemicals for the same reason.
I'm not familiar with the unit you're looking into,but if it's just a garage heater,I'd recommend vent free.99.9% efficient,versus whatever the Carrier is rated.
Thanks for all the replys.It going in to garage with 12 ft ceilings.The heater will be about 8-9 ft in the air.They said this heater is very efficient.It has a condensation hose and plastic pcv exhaust.Just need it to take the chill out of the shop.
Tony
Tony
rickairmedic
Well-known member
Tony if you put that heater in the garage. ( Make sure you keep the garage above freezing at all times in the winter ). Condensing gas furnaces can freeze and crack the secondary heat exchanger . This is why you cannot put them in an unconditioned airspace such as an attic or crawlspace.
Rick
Rick