I don’t see the issue. 20% of its still new. Flip it over and run itYeah, think about this one too.... *******. Single digits outside and trying to get the garage warm.. probably help replacing the dirty filter.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Prospecter
Well-known member
You might consider adding a shoe at the bottom where you cut off the extra pins. On my 3830 I find it easy to drag the lower arms when plowing.Another test fit.
These brackets are made for the 1-2 Series and the larger 3-4 series. Hence, the double pin format. The lower section will be cut off as to not drag while in use.
OP
I do that sometimes if I catch it before it gets too bad.I don’t see the issue. 20% of its still new. Flip it over and run it
When you can see the grit/dust/dirt on the filter, it's time for it to get swapped out.
OP
That's awesome suggestion. Thanks.
OP
Further mock and taking the adjustment out of the bracket leaves me this.
The original mount, according to the parts diagram shows a tractor mount. I would assume that piece allows the mount to sit higher out of the way.
Keep in mind, this is a one off project. I'm taking something from one to another and for a slightly different purpose. What is in the picture is two pieces for the mount and allows some tilt.
I may need to redrill some holes and/or permanently (weld) the mount together. I work tomorrow and will be going to get some more steel plate for the brackets on Thursday.
The original mount, according to the parts diagram shows a tractor mount. I would assume that piece allows the mount to sit higher out of the way.
Keep in mind, this is a one off project. I'm taking something from one to another and for a slightly different purpose. What is in the picture is two pieces for the mount and allows some tilt.
I may need to redrill some holes and/or permanently (weld) the mount together. I work tomorrow and will be going to get some more steel plate for the brackets on Thursday.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Might a taller leading edge give the needed clearance? Between a shoe to keep it from dragging on the hardpack and a taller leading edge you might gain a couple inches.
RickP
Well-known member
^+1 -- A taller cutting edge edge will definitely help.
Also, could the mounting arm be designed to tilt the blade forward slightly in use?
When you raise the blade, the arm needs to tilt up quite a bit.
Maybe the blade should be a couple inches off the ground when the arm is horizontal.
Also, could the mounting arm be designed to tilt the blade forward slightly in use?
When you raise the blade, the arm needs to tilt up quite a bit.
Maybe the blade should be a couple inches off the ground when the arm is horizontal.
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OP
The cutting edge is like new. I don't know if Deere makes a different cutting edge so I would like to leave well enough alone there.
I would also like to have no tilt adjustment because this is getting attached to the FEL. I do want to put too much pressure on it, granted this is probably the same as what the bucket does.
Once I get a steel plate welded in between the brackets, I can tack weld it up and actually see how is going to line up.
I have no plans for this build other than what is in my mind. Scary thought. I'm just working through it as I go, just trying to look forward.
I would also like to have no tilt adjustment because this is getting attached to the FEL. I do want to put too much pressure on it, granted this is probably the same as what the bucket does.
Once I get a steel plate welded in between the brackets, I can tack weld it up and actually see how is going to line up.
I have no plans for this build other than what is in my mind. Scary thought. I'm just working through it as I go, just trying to look forward.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
Can't you just cut everything off that hangs below the angle adjustment? I would say that you could go so far as slicing off everything behind the angle adjustment, but that would most likely limit the amount of side to side swing you have. I also assume that you are welding something between your skid steer mount to get a center attachment point for this. You may want to also add some angle braces out to the loader arm positions to make sure the load is pushing back on them. Also, I am sure you have looked yourself and are using some of the production models as reference, but here is a BX one similar to what you are trying to accomplish.
Edit to add, this one is designed to float, and to say that I like your project. I have a BX blade, that I have considered doing the same with.
Edit to add, this one is designed to float, and to say that I like your project. I have a BX blade, that I have considered doing the same with.
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OP
No, I don't believe so. That would include the mount itself.Can't you just cut everything off that hangs below the angle adjustment? I would say that you could go so far as slicing off everything behind the angle adjustment, but that would most likely limit the amount of side to side swing you have. I also assume that you are welding something between your skid steer mount to get a center attachment point for this. You may want to also add some angle braces out to the loader arm positions to make sure the load is pushing back on them. Also, I am sure you have looked yourself and are using some of the production models as reference, but here is a BX on similar to what you are trying to accomplish.
Edit to add, this one is designed to float, and to say that I like this project. I have a BX blade, that I have considered doing the same with.
I don't have a skid steer mount. I'm using JDQA mounting brackets for the FEL of my 2032R. The plate steel I pick up tomorrow will be in the center of these brackets. The mount will get welded in this location but yes, centered. This is why there will be no angle brackets.
I've referenced literally nothing currently in production. My plan is between my ears and a complete one-off. It will retain some of the factory JD parts so I will be able to replace some parts if need be.
I will nowhere near that $1700 price tag in what I'm doing. I have $150 in the blade/mount. $75 in the mounting brackets. Some of the steel I already have but will be getting a piece of 3/8" plate from the local machine shop I source my steel from.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
I thought it might be the JDQA, but couldn't remember what Deer called their proprietary version of the skid steer mount.
By the mount do you mean the bolted plate? I was figuring you could just weld that to your JDQA vs the mounting plate, but you may have some other plans for QA.
Also I wasn't insinuating you purchase the one I posted above (I knew your setup was way under that cost, and it wouldn't fit anyway), was merely posting it as a reference on how others have tackled what you are doing.... thought it might be helpful if you were not aware.
OP
The mount on the blade as came from JD will be welded to the JDQA/plate.
Originally I was going to fab up a mount. It would mount JDQA to the blade with something custom. However, I quickly realized the factory mount has the ability to pivot/swivel the blade left to right. I want to incorporate that feature into the complete blade build.
Originally I was going to fab up a mount. It would mount JDQA to the blade with something custom. However, I quickly realized the factory mount has the ability to pivot/swivel the blade left to right. I want to incorporate that feature into the complete blade build.
OP
Picked up my steel today. I bought 1/4" as they could shear it and the 3/8" had to be cut on their plasma table and it was being used.
Next up, making a pair of welding table clamps from the single clamp.
Next up, making a pair of welding table clamps from the single clamp.
OP
Also picked up some fastner stock today.
Drawers are filling up slowly.
Drawers are filling up slowly.
OP
I plasma cut the steel to size and ground the edges down. Also had to grind the paint off the brackets.
Clamped it to the welding table and fired up the Ironman 230.
Clamped it to the welding table and fired up the Ironman 230.
OP
The plate is 1/4"and and the brackets are 3/8".
My welds.
My settings.
My welds.
My settings.
OP
I think I mentioned in the Show Your New Tools thread that I picked up some more Ernst wrench organizers. I found that I need a few more for the Metric stuff after adding to the smaller 27" box.
I ordered 2 more sets of them and a set of pliers organizers for this box. Jungle truck will be dropping them off today.
One more picture from last night I forgot to show. Plate all welded in. Tonight I can try to test the actual mounting bracket with a few tack welds and see what it looks like.
I ordered 2 more sets of them and a set of pliers organizers for this box. Jungle truck will be dropping them off today.
One more picture from last night I forgot to show. Plate all welded in. Tonight I can try to test the actual mounting bracket with a few tack welds and see what it looks like.
OP
I think I mentioned in the Show Your New Tools thread that I picked up some more Ernst wrench organizers. I found that I need a few more for the Metric stuff after adding to the smaller 27" box.
I ordered 2 more sets of them and a set of pliers organizers for this box. Jungle truck will be dropping them off today.
Organizers came this afternoon.
Finished with the wrench drawer.
Yes, a couple of empty spots.
OP
Plier drawer before.
Plier drawer after and now more room here as well.
Plier drawer after and now more room here as well.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
How deep is the drawer you have those in Nuttsgt? Would those organizers fit in the shallow drawers on the right side of the 56"?
RickP
Well-known member
Your work on the attachment plate looks good.
I like the design, and how the loader arms will raise/lower/tilt the plow.
I wasn't sure if the plate will **** up against the FEL structure.
Are you planning to weld some gussets/ribs or something across the back of the plate?
(my ATV plow hits the back of the support with a LOT of force, and I don't have nearly as much horsepower/weight/traction as you have with your JD)
I like the design, and how the loader arms will raise/lower/tilt the plow.
Will anything be behind that 1/4" plate for a little extra support?
I wasn't sure if the plate will **** up against the FEL structure.
Are you planning to weld some gussets/ribs or something across the back of the plate?
(my ATV plow hits the back of the support with a LOT of force, and I don't have nearly as much horsepower/weight/traction as you have with your JD)
OP
Not really deep enough.... but they work.
Notice the larger set of Channellocks on the left, they aren't sitting in the organizer because of the height.
The Crescent wrench on the right sitting opposite of the others for the same reason, sitting in the organizer makes them too tall.
I can get a measurement of the 56" box or mock up but it will have to wait until Sunday.
OP
I bought a piece of 3/8" flat bar for the very purpose of reinforcement.
Honestly, I just don't know how yet. I wanted to get that far yesterday but I worked till noon, had a few things to do after work and by the time I got home, ate lunch, got a fire going and it warmed up, the wife was about to come home.
I decided other than the drawer organization, not much was going to get done. It's not a point of going out and doing a few minutes of work. It's the planning and trying to think through the design and build to make sure it will work.
I did think about a new approach to the mount but it will have to wait until at least Sunday when I am back home. ..then again, the wife will be home and not sure if she has plans.
OP
The organizers, one section of them is 10" wide and and the drawer is more or less 12" wide. So yes, width wise it will fit.
The drawer in the 27" box is 2 3/8" deep. The drawer I'm using them in the 56" box is the same depth. The corresponding drawer in the 42" is 2 3/8" deep as well... The smaller drawers in both boxes are the same depth.
So it appears that the guy who designed these boxes was smart enough to use a common drawer depth for the whole Series 3.
To further prove someone used some common sense in design, without physically pulling the drawers out or verifying actual part numbers, the 27" drawers are the same drawer used in the 42" boxes.
Brilliant huh ?
So in the end, one section will fit across the front of the drawer. I'd guess you could also put another section across the back of the drawer.
Don't be afraid to ask if you have more questions.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Thank you! Pliers drawers are probably next to organize in my toolbox.
OP
Those Ernst organizers sure clean up a drawer. I wish I would have bought them years ago.
OP
So the idea I came up with the other day was to shorten the bracket up a bit. In doing so, I would forgo using the back of the mount.
I needed to make sure it would clear so I laid a straight edge down on top of the mount. Swinging it back and forth it cleared with ease.
The best part is the straight edge is 2" wide, which gives an extra buffer. I wanted to cut at the edge of these holes.
Success, the bracket is the correct length.
I needed to make sure it would clear so I laid a straight edge down on top of the mount. Swinging it back and forth it cleared with ease.
The best part is the straight edge is 2" wide, which gives an extra buffer. I wanted to cut at the edge of these holes.
Success, the bracket is the correct length.
Amen! I started with the PlyWorx wire racks. They were definitely better than nothing - but, that's not saying much. Everything was flopping around and falling over.
I tried a couple of the Ernst and, WOW, what an improvement. When I was going to add more, I mentioned to my wife I was going to order 3 or 4 more. She looked at the plier drawer, measured the Ernst rack, and said "I think you should get 6 more". OK, sure! Hard to argue with that!
OP
I also cut down the drop leg section of the mount as seen in the last picture above.
Once it was ground down and ready to weld, I lined it up on the backing plate. I put I couple of tack welds on it.
Then I carried the heavy awkward plate back over to the JD.
Cutting edge at ground level and 2" plus of clearance at the FEL .
Once it was ground down and ready to weld, I lined it up on the backing plate. I put I couple of tack welds on it.
Then I carried the heavy awkward plate back over to the JD.
Cutting edge at ground level and 2" plus of clearance at the FEL .
OP
I looked at the wire racks and decided I didn't care for them. I believe, if memory serves me correctly, they are also taller.
OP
After taking the blade project back off and to the welding table, it was time to make it final. I did have a little gap to close up from my plasma cutting.
I welded up the inside first. The sides went okay. The back I didn't have a good grip on the mig gun. As my finger was slipping off the trigger, I got offline. I had to go back over a small section but nobody will probably ever see it.
Then moved to the outside.
I welded up the inside first. The sides went okay. The back I didn't have a good grip on the mig gun. As my finger was slipping off the trigger, I got offline. I had to go back over a small section but nobody will probably ever see it.
Then moved to the outside.
OP
I finished both outer sides.
I didn't weld the top as you can see.
I will be cutting two angle braces out of this plate which was a cut off from the backing plate. That'll be tomorrow's project.
I didn't weld the top as you can see.
I will be cutting two angle braces out of this plate which was a cut off from the backing plate. That'll be tomorrow's project.
OP
With the exception of 3/8"x 3/4" bolts, I have my smaller fasteners drawer full. I picked up the remaining 3/8" stock I needed.
TSC doesn't carry the 3/4" long bolts in Grade 5. I think they do carry them in Grade 8. Which I will just stick when I grab the larger washers and lock washers on the next stop.
TSC doesn't carry the 3/4" long bolts in Grade 5. I think they do carry them in Grade 8. Which I will just stick when I grab the larger washers and lock washers on the next stop.
OP
I added so back bracing on the plate. I used 3/8" flat bar. The smaller brace is where the I added the angle braces on the front.
I added some extra bracing in the lower section of the mount.
While I was welding the final stuff, I thought it would be a good time to add a D-ring for lifting or to tie it down.
I added some extra bracing in the lower section of the mount.
While I was welding the final stuff, I thought it would be a good time to add a D-ring for lifting or to tie it down.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Nice clean design. The weak spots on my back blade are the angle adjustment holes. They elongate over time due to wear. Some large grade 8 nuts or washers welded over your adjustment holes might be worth the time if you are so inclined.
OP
Thanks.
I will probably drive over to the Deere dealer and order a set of springs. Once I put them on, I'm sure the snow will be done for the year but I want to be able to push some loose dirt/gravel with this as well. The latter is the reason is why the blade may get a permanent weld to hold it in place.
Prospecter
Well-known member
That will work. If you are going with a fixed blade, you might also just use large bolts through those adjustment holes instead of the usual pins.
OP
I didn't get a picture of this diagonal bracing I added the other day.
Time to get this project finished up
I'll let the primer dry for an hour or so and hit it with some color.
Time to get this project finished up
I'll let the primer dry for an hour or so and hit it with some color.
OP
Also added more stock to the fasteners.
