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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I'm understanding it partly. So, if the T-stat is closed until the heat gets too high, it will shut the blower off. This blower is attached to the wood burner, but does this blower blow onto the fire or is it the blower that circulates the heated air around the firebox?
 
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NUTTSGT

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I knew that feeling about missing OT pages. I hated that about the system. The OT would have paid for a couple of more projects.

So if I’m reading your diagram correctly, the switch powers the plug which In Turn opens/ closes the thermostat? Or adjusts the thermostat as needed?
Yes, the switch power the outlet with it. That allows you to kill the power to the outlet without tripping the breaker.

The thermostat opens/closes (circuit) when it reaches a certain temperature. This turns the blower fan off and on so it only blows when the air is a certain temp. The thermostat is merely a switch and not like a wall t-stat.

My stove is basically a fire box inside the galvanized box. The blower pushes the accumulated heat out of the box and does not run all the time.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I'm understanding it partly. So, if the T-stat is closed until the heat gets too high, it will shut the blower off. This blower is attached to the wood burner, but does this blower blow onto the fire or is it the blower that circulates the heated air around the firebox?
I missed your post when I typed out the post above. Sorry.

Blower does not blow on fire, it only moves the heated air between the exterior of the fire box and inside of the galvanized shell of the wood burner.

Think of it as a box inside a box. The little inside box contains the fire. The ends which you can't see above are black in color, The back has the mount for the blower fan (smaller galvanized box with the armored cable going into on the left side of the picture) and the chimney flue pipe comes out the back. The front is also black in color and has the ash door, door to feed the fire and damper. These are heavier gauge steel panels. The sides and top are galvanized sheet metal, maybe 24/26 gauge. The top has the two warm air supply ducts coming out of it.
 

jarhead

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Jul 9, 2006
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704
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Colorado, near Morrison
It's not Sgt, technically I was a Corporal.

It should read more like Nutt'sGT, as in my '86 Mustang GT.

It's a take off of the plate I had on my 1987 Z28, NUTTSZ while I was in the Marines. The wife picked up the nickname Nuttsy while she worked at Verizon. So when we traded in the Z28, we changed the personalized plate to NUTTSY, her current plate.

Unfortunately, NUTTSGT is to many letters for an Ohio license plate, besides, the Mustang now has historical plates on it.
Well great story anyway.
Semper Fi
 

zanyad

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NE Ohio
Unfortunately, NUTTSGT is to many letters for an Ohio license plate, besides, the Mustang now has historical plates on it.
I count seven letters in "NUTTSGT." Ohio says 4-8 characters for a vanity plate. Source (under General Information > Personalized). Unless you also have some non-standard plate, such as for a college, organization, sports team, or military.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I count seven letters in "NUTTSGT." Ohio says 4-8 characters for a vanity plate. Source (under General Information > Personalized). Unless you also have some non-standard plate, such as for a college, organization, sports team, or military.
Yep, the Mustang had USMC plates on it before the Historical plates.

I've never seen 8 digits on an Ohio plate, maybe a fairly recent change or for numerics only.
:dunno:
 
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NUTTSGT

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KIMG0206.JPG
Grabbed a few items yesterday. Need to light the fire and was getting low on matches.
The container is for my yellow wire nuts. The container I've been using is getting old and brittle. The Plano box is for a small tap set.KIMG0208~2.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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Then I moved to the other side of the garage to move the new WiFi extender. The shelf I made and let dry while I was at work.

KIMG0211.JPG

Mounted on the side of the cabinet, out of the way and sending the 'net across the garage. Cat5e and power cord hid in some wire loom and secured underneath the cabinet.
KIMG0212.JPG
 

rharman

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Apr 22, 2012
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Location
SoCal
Short update. Stopped by the hardware store and grabbed what I needed. . . . except for one I forgot to write on my list.

In the case they went.

KIMG0216.JPG
Nice to have it all together like that. But, the crooked labels have my OCD all worked up. :lol_hitti
 
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NUTTSGT

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Nice to have it all together like that. But, the crooked labels have my OCD all worked up. :lol_hitti
I was good with all of them except the last row. I couldn't get ahold of it with my finger nail and the batteries were running low in the label maker. So I left well enough alone for the moment.

I need to find a power cable for the label maker.
 
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NUTTSGT

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So nothing but a little busy work in the garage. Had one more cord left from the charging carts I parted out about a year ago. I grabbed a few extra parts when I put the wood burner on a cord.
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A few minutes later, I have another shorter extension cord to use in the garage or basement.

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NUTTSGT

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I never showed the finished product when I made the rolling cart for the bandsaw. All painted black with the bandsaw sitting on it. I tsfits nicely on the stand.



KIMG0236.JPG


One of the reasons I wanted to get it made was to get it out of the way. It fits neatly under the pallet rack bench area.

KIMG0237.JPG
 

xtremek

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Apr 13, 2012
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11,603
Location
St. Johns, Mi
Those little band saws are so useful. I picked one up about a month ago and already used it at least a half dozen times.
 
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LeonardY

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Apr 16, 2011
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5,040
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Southern California
I'm still trying to get it adjusted to cut straight. A buddy said they never cut straight.
That's why I opted for a HEM saw. I can't believe how well it cuts. I know it was a bit pricey. I think I paid $350 for mine but the capacity is 4+ inches. It's not an auto cut so I have to pull the blade down through the cut. Yipe! I haven't looked at the current price until now $795

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Mine was a special edition with an autographed ball cap. From someone I have no idea who they are.
1674957701416.png
But it's a very capable saw. I cut 1/8 slices off even solid stock and it's perfectly square.
1674957861051.png
 
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NUTTSGT

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That's why I opted for a HEM saw. I can't believe how well it cuts. I know it was a bit pricey. I think I paid $350 for mine but the capacity is 4+ inches. It's not an auto cut so I have to pull the blade down through the cut. Yipe! I haven't looked at the current price until now $795

1674957614739.png
Mine was a special edition with an autographed ball cap. From someone I have no idea who they are.
1674957701416.png
But it's a very capable saw. I cut 1/8 slices off even solid stock and it's perfectly square.
1674957861051.png
Looks like a really good saw. I went to buy a belt sander from a guy and ended up coming home with the bandsaw instead.

I do have a DeWalt portable bandsaw in a SWAG stand. I haven't used it much but I still have it for when I need it.
 

Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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38,215
Location
Southern Maine
Organizing and labeling are like peanut butter and chocolate, (source: Reese's pieces executive).

On the bandsaw debate, I am not sure there is any good choice to get a straight cut. I use a dry cut saw if I need things straight and lately I have been using my ancient power hacksaw to cut things. The nice thing about a bandsaw is you can set it and forget it (source: Ron Popeil).
 
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NUTTSGT

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So my tailgate is finally done but one thing led to another. KIMG0247.JPG

Got her in the garage, bumper off, hitch off at spare tire out of the way. I had both bumpers on the work bench swapping stuff over. KIMG0249.JPG
 
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NUTTSGT

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I found out the bumper step pad needs replaced so I will have to order one. When it comes in, I'll put the new back up sensors in.

The hitch is going to get ground down and wire brushed. It'll then get a coat of POR15 when ready.

KIMG0248.JPG
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
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Northern Utah
Not sure how good of condition or even structurally the OEM Ford hitch is Eric but I have been less than impressed with any of the hitches on any of the big 3 in the past. However, I can't speak of anything newer such as in the past 5 years or so. I have found that the pin holes elongate at an alarming rate as well as seeing fatigue cracks at the welds, especially in the HAZ areas.

On our previous two coaches I fabricated new hitches for both as the originals were pathetic and on my past trucks I have been using Curt hitches and have been very impressed with the welds as well as materials used. Shortly after purchasing our 2006 Silverado 2500HD back in 2009 I replaced the hitch with a 15k pound Curt and it has served me very well in the past 14 years that we've owned it. When towing our 13k pound enclosed race trailer around I towed with high confidence that everything was solidly connected and would even handle an emergency maneuver if needs be. I couldn't say that about the OEM hitch.

Just something to consider while you already have the hitch out from under the truck.
 

SilverJimmy

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Apr 14, 2012
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1,628
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
Mike is right on about factory hitches. My 04 F350 hitch would twist almost to the ground when I loaded my 24’ trailer. I now have a TorkLift SuperTruss on both my Ford and my GMC to tow with my truck bed camper that hangs out 2’ from the back of the bed. Rock solid now, both trucks actually ride better loaded than empty!
 

Sifan

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Jul 10, 2018
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582
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Southern Illinois
Yeah, just a word of advise ... watch out for farmers pulling wagons behind pickups ... 30,000 pounds behind a 1/2 ton truck ... what could possibly go wrong??

Ever look at the ratings on hitches, most all of them use the same 5/8 pin?
 

zmotorsports

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Northern Utah
Ever look at the ratings on hitches, most all of them use the same 5/8 pin?

For the most part the 5/8" pin isn't what worries me, it's the parent material of the receiver tubing that the pin goes through. Many times it's only .187" thickness and somewhat low carbon steel that allows the pin to elongate the holes at an alarmingly fast rate.

I have repaired quite a few over the years by making a doubler insert of 8620 high carbon steel. I bore the pin hole out to be uniform then machine a stepped bushing that presses into the bore that has the .625" bore to allow the pin to slide through but a much larger OD therefore allowing a lot of surface area for TIG welding the perimeter. I go the thickness of the parent material of the receiver tubing which is usually .187" plus another approx. .250" for a total thickness of .437" on either side of the receiver tube. That allows for a lot of extra surface area and support for the hitch pin and more importantly a more wear resistant high carbon steel to prevent a repeat of wear.

I did my coach receiver within about a year of owning it back in 2007 when the pin hole was wearing and now after 16 years of ownership it is still as tight as the day I did the modification and our coach is always towing as it's never left the driveway without either our Jeep or the enclosed trailer attached.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Yeah, just a word of advise ... watch out for farmers pulling wagons behind pickups ... 30,000 pounds behind a 1/2 ton truck ... what could possibly go wrong??

Ever look at the ratings on hitches, most all of them use the same 5/8 pin?
There used to be a farmer that would put 2 large square hay bales, stacked, across the step side bed of his pick up. ... old ratty Dodge.
 
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NUTTSGT

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For the most part the 5/8" pin isn't what worries me, it's the parent material of the receiver tubing that the pin goes through. Many times it's only .187" thickness and somewhat low carbon steel that allows the pin to elongate the holes at an alarmingly fast rate.

.,.....
Sounds like good advice Mike. I think I will try to look at improving mine or at least look at the area for wear.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Okay, I'm in the process of swapping out the tailgate. I have them set up back to back in the garage.

KIMG0259.JPG

I spent almost an hour trying to get the tailgate off. Yeah I know how to do it but it was just super stuck on. Reading online, seems to be an issue for some with the left side hinge point.

KIMG0260.JPG
 

GRN96WS6

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SOMD
Maybe spray that location with some surface shield or similar to prevent the rust buildup.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I had to make a run to the local NAPA for some plastic push pins for the ones that broke. I grabbed few styles/lengths as a precaution. Just under $29 for those bags of plastic.


KIMG0262.JPG


The new tailgate is on, seams greased and inside oiled up. You can see where it's dripped out. Looking at the picture, the tonneau cover looks out of whack a bit. I need to order a new step pad as the one that is one it has a few broken tabs.

Next up, refinishing the hitch.

KIMG0265.JPG
 
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