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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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NUTTSGT

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As I mentioned this elsewhere earlier, I wanted one of these boxes for awhile. I kept putting off the purchase until they were out of stock. So walking in Lowe's this morning, I grabbed it off the end cap.
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I wanted it for a "pencil box" in the garage but more than just pencils. Loading it up.
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Then after working in the garage this evening, I thought it needed a little something so I dug around for some smaller stickers and added a few.
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NUTTSGT

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Getting stuff crossed off the punch list for the Mustang. I've been wanting to move the overflow bottle. I pulled it off the night before I worked and thought about how/where I was going to mount it. To the right, you can see part of the old mount.KIMG1480.JPG

Drilling and bending some aluminum flat bar, I had a new bracket ready. I picked up some new clear tubing for it as well.


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A quick shot from underneath.KIMG1482.JPG

Scratch that off the to-do list.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Let me be the first to say this, I am no fabricator, I'm just more of a jack of all trades, a guy with some common sense. Driver's side laid out on top of the old one.KIMG1485.JPG

I thought I had another picture but apparently not. This side is tack welded and test fit. I need to flare the end to meet the ball socket on the header flange. Once I get that done, I will test fit again and start to weld it up.


Since I am going from 2 1/2" to 3", I need larger hangers. Tacked in place to test fit.
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Bob Heine

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I wanted it for a "pencil box" in the garage but more than just pencils. Loading it up.
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Eric, my new favorites are extended tip markers. So often I need to mark the location of a screw hole and my Sharpie doesn't reach. Amazon has these for a reasonable price.
Extended Tip Markers.jpg
 
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NUTTSGT

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I got the passenger side tube welded up. I still have to grind the welds and check for any porosity or missed spots. Even with the flap disc and acetone, I don't think this stuff welds that great.

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The bandsaw I bought off Govdeals for just over $100 is working pretty good with the "old" blade. Add too much down pressure on the cylinder and it will stall, however, I believe it has paid for itself already.

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Best thing was when the wife came out last night. She asked if it was the one we went to pick up and I said yes. She was impressed that it cleaned up so nice and I got all the **** scraped out of the bottom.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Getting back on the Mustang this afternoon after spending the morning getting new tires put on the enclosed trailer. While the wheels and tires were off, I greased the bearings and anti-seized the studs and where the aluminum rims ride on the drums.

Everything test fit, hangers are fully welded and ready to weld the mufflers to the exhaust pipe.

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NUTTSGT

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New exhaust is looking good, what are your plans with the old 2 1/2" exhaust?
Also how do you check porosity?
The old exhaust is standing in the corner. If this car goes slower with this larger exhaust, the old set can be put back on.

When I said porosity, just any bad spots in the welds after grinding down. Just naked eye viewing nothing fancy.
 
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NUTTSGT

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No pictures but an update on the exhaust, went to bed about 0230 last night.

Had to modify and remodify the hangers when said and done.

I started the car up and let it run a few minutes. The connection between the header ball and exhaust socket showed itself.... I'm using pipe the is essentially as big as the ball... Something I didn't realize until I was already deep into the process.

I ended up running a die down one set of mounting studs. Then decided to make an adapter piece of sorts. I have no time for a complete re-do of the headers and exhaust.


I cut the flare for the socket off a set of "flow tubes" or starter tubes about 3/4" long. These slid down into the 3" exhaust, which I went around with the welder tacking all the way around the inside. Once that was done, I used a die grinder with a carbide bit to clean up the excess and followed it with a stone. Then a sanding disc and scotchbrite.

It was very tedious work and about midnight, it was 4th meal time, a couple of Little Debbie nutty buddies and a Dr Pepper. Real healthy, I know.


While some may not agree and that I created a choke point. The biggest restriction is going to be what has always been, the ball socket on the headers. All I did was adapt to what I needed.

It was too late to fire the car up but I will get to it here shortly.... maybe shoot a short video.


Edit: Looking like I'm not done, I have an exhaust leak that is going to take some work.
 
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NUTTSGT

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After getting the magnetic pick up out, I can see the rust on the reluctor. KIMG1512.JPG

Unfortunately with Ford distributors, the reluctor can't be changed. It'll have to go back to MSD for a rebuild. Maybe over the winter but not right now. I'll clean it up the best I can.

Going to break out the Dremel and buy a set of these wire brushes.
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If I screw this thing up, Im going to have to order a new one from Summit.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Eric, probably a bit to late, but what about some evaporust. Upside down in a bowl?
That is a thought. We made a trip to Menard's last night and I got two different set of steel brushes to clean it up. I'm pretty confident these will work.. . . I hope.

Once I get it clean, it's going to get a very light coat of oil as a rust preventive when it goes back together.
 
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NUTTSGT

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While we were at Menards, I bought something to go along with the Happy Wife, Happy Life theory.

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But you say, it's just a milk crate. Yes it is. However, when I built the crate bracket for the Timberwolf last year, all I had was a red milk crate.

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The wife said it looked "Pee-Wee Hermish" with the red one. I told her I don't like the red either but it's all I had.

Alas, new black crate installed.

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NUTTSGT

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Picked up a fey thingy at Menards yesterday. A bigger 20" fan and it replaces the 14". The smaller unit went back to the car trailer.

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This Flexzilla lead in hose will replace the clothes washer hose that I have been using for a short hose in the garage.

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That longer hose is now the drain hose for the AC unit. Which drains inside the the garage into a 5 gallon bucket.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Since the AC unit was pulling so much water out of the air, I figured it might be coming from somewhere else.

Years ago when I worked on the inside of the garage, I drilled holes in the piece under bathroom door trim. The plan was for some fresh air intake for the wood stove.

I don't think it was actually required as it's a garage and not air sealed super tight.
Old panel laying on the concrete step and new panel screwed in place.
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NUTTSGT

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There's a "thing" that I didn't do when I put the addition on. . . . and I've put it off. Then I forgot about it till the other day when it was 95° outside. As luck would have it, I also found the 12x18 vent I pulled out and decided to use it rather than the 12x12 vent I had previously purchased. Starting with pulling the siding.
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Once the siding was pulled, I screwed some 2x4s to the inside and taped the edges. Next up, the vent and replace the siding.
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Siding done and trim put on the vent. Time for lunch and then on to the rear of the addition.
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NUTTSGT

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I forgot to post these two pictures last night. These smaller 12x12 vents are what I was going to put in. I put one in the gable end about as high as I could.
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The other went around the corner in the shorter wall. If it would have been just this vent I would have mounted it 8-10" higher but I wanted it on the same plane as the gable end one. This one was the easiest to do as I could stand on the roof but the heat coming off the shingled roof was a little on the warm side.

I now have a vent on the north, west (prevailing wind) and south sides. It should help with the wind pushing some heat out of the attic space. I didn't realize that I had a Lab Inspector on site too.


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I have a garage key "out" and decided that it might be time to rekey the door just in case. Not sure if it could fall into the wrong hands but peace of mind comes in to play.


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I swapped out the dead bolt and the door handle with a trip to town for each. I wasn't going to leave the garage unsecured while I was gone.


Cost to rekey both locks. $10

5 copies of the key. $10

$20 total....I love living in a rural area.

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As keys were swapped out, I bent the old ones to prevent mixing new/old.
 
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