Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

[NUTTSGT]

Those are the same style of header gaskets I installed on my camaro. I got one heat cycle on them now and I'll retighten them soon before I crank the camaro up again.

What's your reason for going mechanical for the oil guage?

I generally get the car warm and headers hot and retorque them while they are hot. Since I started doing that years ago, I've never had one bolt loosen up. I've had good luck with these gaskets, well pretty much all Fel-pro gaskets.

Why mechanical ? The more I think about it, this is the second time that a oil pressure sending unit has gone bad.

I've never had a mechanical gauge go bad. I can easily test a mechanical gauge at the track with a burst of compressed air for failure. I could have made a second pass the other night by testing the gauge to see if I had actually lost oil pressure or a gauge/sending unit failure.

 

[NUTTSGT]

New gauge out of the box and looking over pieces and parts to make sure I have everything.





I spent some time getting the old gauge out. Between siliconing it and and not much room to work, it was a PITA.

After getting the old one out, I found the new one was slightly bigger so some trimming to the dash face.



This is about as far as the dash face pulls out with everything else still attached.


This time, I only siliconed the top half on the back side of the gauge.

 

[68400BIRD]

Glad to see that you are not using that included plastic line.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Glad to see that you are not using that included plastic line.

LOL. No. That **** will go in the trash.

 

[NUTTSGT]

So Just a little update.

Last week, we did make it up to the NMCA race at US131 Dragway, Martin, MI. We went up Friday after taking the granddaughter home and Bones went to their house for the weekend. Roads were much better but it seemed that nobody wanted to drive the speed limit and caused the drive to take an extra 30 minutes.

We arrived Friday too late to make a test pass, so we made one Saturday morning. Afterwards, I added some 110 race gas and aired up the tires. We went on our cruise and track was being cleaned when we came back. They sent us to our pits where we "could" work on the cars if need be, unlike regular cool downs with no hood popping.

First two passes were not stellar with missed shifts. 3rd pass, I tried something else I thought might be an issue....adjusting the steering wheel up. This is just my driving habit and probably not the best.

I make my 3rd pass, which technically, should be the worst. I say the worst because the car has gotten hotter and other issues for most people. I launched, had a good 60' and hit every shift. I was rewarded with a time slip that showed me my best pass on motor.

60' 1.60
ET 11.208
MPH 122.88

I was pretty stoked and had a hug smile on my face when I went back to the stands and picked up the wife.

 

[NUTTSGT]

While I know some of you might get it from my last best of 11.385 and getting down to 11.208 doesn't seem like much. However, dropping almost 2 tenths in the 1/4 mile is a huge gain.

I couldn't make another pass to try to back that pass up Saturday, so I had to wait till Sunday morning time trials. They moved True Street into Bracket Open. When the time came, I did a good burn out, launch about 4K rpm and hit every shift. This time the car had enough heat in it and the air was much better and atleast 15° cooler.

Again, I launched and it felt good. I hit every shift as needed and it felt like it was coming on hard in the top half of the track. I go through the traps, shift into neutral, apply the brakes, come around the return road, hit 2nd gear and drive up to the ET Shack. Get handed my time slip.

WTF?!?!

It was then I learned that Bracket Open was an 1/8 mile class. I have no idea what my car did in the back half of the pass.


Using the 1/8-1/4 conversion of 1.555, I was happy but stilllllllll !

7.225 x 1.555 = 11.234.

I also had a faster 1/8 mph 97.15 vs 97.38 all with a slightly slower 60' 1.60 vs 1.64

So in the end, I was happy, we loaded up and came home. I even stopped at Cracker Barrel for the wife as she wanted.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Over the past week, I have ordered some new pieces for the trailer and hitch parts.

I picked up a new 2 1/2" ball mount to replace the smaller 2" version for the dump trailer.





A new set of snap up brackets for the weight distribution hitch to replace the mismatched used set I bought a decade ago.



Big Brown truck should be delivering the new 2 1/2" shank for the WD hitch today.

 

[NUTTSGT]

So I figured it should be time for some trailer tongue maintenance.




Tongue stripped down, sanded and ready for some paint.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The aluminum diamond plate and plywood tongue platform need attention too.



Plywood is going to need replaced.

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Just read the post about the new PB on motor. That's pretty stout, funny what a small comfort adjustment can do. I'm still dealing with my driver seat "lean" that keeps me from being comfortable when shifting as the car seat rocks on launch pretty badly. . What's the suspension / tire setup that gets you the 1.60 60ft times? Is that launching a little conservatively for longevity? Also what is your clutch setup and are you using a 2 step ?

 

[NUTTSGT]

First coat of POR15 on the tongue.



Hopefully, I can get a second coat on in a couple of hours. Then it can dry until Sunday and be top coated.

 

[LXCam]

The car and you are coming around Eric, nice going bud!. Hey you ever run at Dragway 42?. A very close friend of mine was there last night with a car he supports still dialing it in after it was back-halfed this past year.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The car and you are coming around Eric, nice going bud!. Hey you ever run at Dragway 42?. A very close friend of mine was there last night with a car he supports still dialing it in after it was back-halfed this past year.

I've never been to 42 but been by it. It's not much farther than Norwalk/SMP.

I have friends that have or go there. I know the track surface is pretty good from what I hear.

Guy spent a bunch of $$$ turning the track a different direction and not suffering from having a good track crew.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Second coat was put on last night before we walked down to the local festival and had supper.



I love POR15 but I wish it had UV protection. Brush it, it lays down so flat and has a great shine. . . . pretty good for something right out of a can.




I will mention this. After the tongue is done, the jack will get some attention.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Just read the post about the new PB on motor. That's pretty stout, funny what a small comfort adjustment can do. I'm still dealing with my driver seat "lean" that keeps me from being comfortable when shifting as the car seat rocks on launch pretty badly. . What's the suspension / tire setup that gets you the 1.60 60ft times? Is that launching a little conservatively for longevity? Also what is your clutch setup and are you using a 2 step ?

26x10.50 MT ET Street radials on the rear @ 16 psi
26" tall MT tires on the front @ 50 PSI, made switch to this taller tire this year from a 24.5" tall tire.
15x8 15x4 weld Draglites

UPR tubular K-member, with QA1 shocks/coil overs and Eibach springs, forget the spring ht. 12 or 14"
Tubular control arms with UPR bump steer kit and Unisteer manual rack.

UPR adj LCAs in the rear
UPR adj UCAs on the top, I believe.
Homebuilt battleboxes. all seams welded (to my past abilities)
Team-Z anti roll bar

8.8 rear with 4.10 gears.
Moser Full spool
Moser 33 spline axles, gun drilled
Moser C-Clip eliminators
Aluminum rear cover, forget who made it


About 3.5/4K rpm launch, slipping clutch. NO 2 step.
TREMEC TKX transmission
It's been awhile and I would have to look at exactly what clutch it is but I know it's a McLoed.
I believe this one 75025. . . . . 10.5" 26 spline 1 1/8" shaft

McLeod Racing 75025 McLeod Street Level Clutch Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - McLeod Street Level Clutch Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Clutch Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I don't want to completely wring the hell out of this thing, it's still running the stock factory roller block. Allow though it's half filled with Hard-Blok. I try to be conservative and finally getting it worked out, I don't want to break it just yet. I've already BTDT with a split block. If you were ever at The Corral.net, I had a thread, "My Carnage, my split block."

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Nice combo I can relate to the “best of my abilities at the time” as I’ve also been building my fox over so many years that I cringe at some of my old fab work on it. I think your car can be a consistent low 1.5 60ft setup without being too hard on the parts. And I wonder what the ET difference would be. I have no real experience with radials on a manual trans so I’m sure it’ll take some time to dial in but my coupe with 26x8.5 MT ET Drags goes 1.5s most passes with no suspension upgrades other than Strange adjustables on all 4 corners and a king cobra clutch. Launching at about the same RPM as you do. Now I have a 2 step but haven’t really disked in the launches as the car rolls forward when staging. Need a line lock too. I’m running the Same wheel set with quad shocks still in place (flipped) used to be stock axles but they were twisting so I put some aftermarket axles in. Still stock Diff etc. I’ll read your build thread on Corral.net

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Pic for reference. No subframes at the time… now it’s much straighter and I even run an empty airbag in the passenger side spring.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Pic for reference. No subframes at the time… now it’s much straighter and I even run an empty airbag in the passenger side spring.

I had an air bag at one time. A buddy and I split a set of them. I pulled it out in pieces about a year ago after it dry rotted.

 

[NUTTSGT]

No recent updates due to time at the track. Hopefully today goes as nice as yesterday.

Got a package from the Big Brown truck the other day. All 8 qualifiers had the choice of a hoodie or jacket. I chose the hoodie and my name is embroided the the front.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The new shank for the WD hitch is bolted in and ready to go. The Grade bolts were trimmed down with the horizontal bandsaw. . . . man that thing is awesome.



I put one coat of black gloss Rustoleum on the tongue and wanted it to dry before the rain came in that night. It's supposed to rain more this week so it might be a few days before I can get a second coat on it. I do like the way the rain water is beading up.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I cut a new piece of PT plywood for under the LP tank mount. This gets covered by the aluminum diamond plate cover. All holes drilled and ready to go.






LP tank bracket is ready to be remounted. I blasted it, primed, 2 coats of Rustoleum and then a layer of bed-liner for some abrasion resistance.


The hitch itself was in good shape, I just gave it a few coats of paint after wiping it down. I also put a silver stripe on the middle/front. U-bolts and LP bracket pin got blasted and primed/painted too.

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Got a package from the Big Brown truck the other day. All 8 qualifiers had the choice of a hoodie or jacket. I chose the hoodie and my name is embroided the the front.

That's a bad *** hoodie.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Picked up a new tap to chase some black paint out of the threads.



New tap worked perfectly.

 

[NUTTSGT]

The hitch is back on, torqued to 150 ft-lbs and red loctited.



More progress and trailer tongue update is finished.



Next up is making sure the new shank height is correct. Once that is done, I'll set the tongue on a jack stand, remove the tongue jack and give it some attention.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job Eric. I'm assuming you have a stereo system/radio in the trailer based on the antenna?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Nice job Eric. I'm assuming you have a stereo system/radio in the trailer based on the antenna?

Yes, car stereo for the track radio. All I had to do was add an antenna extension cable.

I've seen so many people drill a hole in the side or roof of the trailer. I was like no way am I doing that.... The little antenna works perfectly fine every track I have been too.

SMP/Norwalk.
MCR (closed)
Lucas oil/Indy
US 131/Martin, Mi
National Trails/Columbus

It does also pick up a few of the local stations at home, parked between the house garage and my garage.

 

[NUTTSGT]

For an upcoming project in the garage and for the enclosed car trailer.

A winch which will be mounted under the floor in a box....fab project.

 

[GRN96WS6]

For an upcoming project in the garage and for the enclosed car trailer.

A winch which will be mounted under the floor in a box....fab project.

I need to stop being lazy and put some E track and a winch in mine.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I need to stop being lazy and put some E track and a winch in mine.

I avoided e-track as I didn't want to be walking over it on the floor. However, we also stay in the trailer at the track (some tracks) so it becomes a camper too.

 

[NUTTSGT]

While finishing up the Mustang before the race last weekend, I had a light failure.



Nothing a ballast replacement didn't cure.


I could change all the fixtures over and not use a ballast but this is the second ballast I have to change out in the swap to LED. I'd rather swap out a ballast out every few years than go back through every light and make the change....if it's not broken, don't fix it.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Eric, I bought both the top and bottom box but it was too tall for the spot where I wanted it to go. First fix was to remove the casters, second fix was to remove the top.

Then I shuffled the drawers so the deepest was on top so I could have all the 3/8 and 1/4 inch metric sockets closer to the big guys (along with the duplicate and bigger than the organizer allowed half-inch sockets).

I can access my half-inch chrome and impact metric sockets but the furthest back sockets come out better with the overhead cabinet doors open. I can even keep the extra lug nut keys stored on the appropriate short socket (in case I forget where I hid the ones in the cars).

How did you remove the top?

Thinking about buying one but I think I would need to remove the lid.

 

[Bob Heine]

How did you remove the top?

Thinking about buying one but I think I would need to remove the lid.

Andy, the hinge on the lid is just a steel wire. I grabbed it with a pair of visegrips and pulled it out. I also re-arranged the drawers because Harbor Freight puts the deepest drawer on the bottom of the chest and it's the only drawer deep enough for 3/8" deep sockets on Ernst racks. I like my sockets at the top of the tool chests (the 1/2" sockets ended up in that top compartment -- not ideal but it works for me).

 

[Ohio Andy]

Andy, the hinge on the lid is just a steel wire. I grabbed it with a pair of visegrips and pulled it out. I also re-arranged the drawers because Harbor Freight puts the deepest drawer on the bottom of the chest and it's the only drawer deep enough for 3/8" deep sockets on Ernst racks. I like my sockets at the top of the tool chests (the 1/2" sockets ended up in that top compartment -- not ideal but it works for me).

Thanks for the fast reply. This weekend I'm going to run out to harbor freight and take another look at them. I happen to be someplace that had the Craftsman and on a whim. I took a look at their hinges and I thought I could do what you just described in their hinges and the answer was no. In fact, I saw some people talking about having to go to some pretty extreme measures to disassemble the Craftsman versions.

I also heard that the general were a much higher quality from the picture. It looked like that's how you had done it because I can see the bottom hinge.

Thanks again, from a price point I think it would be really hard to beat but I would get. And I think if I pop the top it'll be the perfect size for where I want to put it.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Thanks for the fast reply. This weekend I'm going to run out to harbor freight and take another look at them. I happen to be someplace that had the Craftsman and on a whim. I took a look at their hinges and I thought I could do what you just described in their hinges and the answer was no. In fact, I saw some people talking about having to go to some pretty extreme measures to disassemble the Craftsman versions.

I also heard that the general were a much higher quality from the picture. It looked like that's how you had done it because I can see the bottom hinge.

Thanks again, from a price point I think it would be really hard to beat but I would get. And I think if I pop the top it'll be the perfect size for where I want to put it.

I found pretty much the perfect box for my space and what I wanted. And it is made in Ohio (I live in Ohio).

29 1/4" 4 Drawer Heavy duty Top Chest

www.wrighttool.com

A good size and height that I could just slide into place. On the other hand, if I bought the General, I could buy six for the cost of only one of the Wright Tool and for my use, it is plenty tough enough (I went to take a look and test them).

I intended to remove the lid, but decided it would be nice to keep the dust and sawdust out. I chose to simply remove the shelving over where I placed the chest so I am now re-organizing. I told my daughter that if she helped me get it that she could choose the color. Removed the drawers before carrying it to the basement shop.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Nice color selection.


A fairly well made box for the money. Granted, once you get it out of the box, it's easier to handle. However, in the slick cardboard box, being a deeper box it's hard to get a hold of it to move by yourself.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Nice color selection.


A fairly well made box for the money. Granted, once you get it out of the box, it's easier to handle. However, in the slick cardboard box, being a deeper box it's hard to get a hold of it to move by yourself.

I think you were the one who told me but I should bring someone with me and I'm really glad I did.

I really like the fact that it's deep so it can hold more stuff.

I thought I was going to have to attach the handles myself, kind of glad I didn't have to. The handles made it much easier for two people to move. It had to be lifted over things to get it into position things like A table saw so I'm glad I took the drawers out a little bit of weight difference really helped

 

[NUTTSGT]

Funny how talking about one thing, brings something similar up.

HF sale came along and I decided to do an upgrade in the addition.


Using the FEL of the John Deere made it easy to unload.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Part of this will be used for fastener storage, probably two drawers worth. Namely Metric fasteners and the blue bins will get cut down to fit. I'll break out the label when I start.


There's the FREE bucket that came with the purchase. I believe I'll be taking that one to the station since the guys there tend to go through buckets. . . . Here's the bin set the above bins came from along with a few left over from before. These are the same ones that I used previously in my fastener storage under the workbench.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I moved the top box off the pallet racking shelf to stack it. Next up, I'm going to move the shelf down on the pallet racking so it makes the benchtop more useable. I have it up higher due to what is under it. Those items will get moved to where I stored the backhoe on the smaller JD (sold). That will be getting done this week, hopefully.

 

[Prospecter]

Part of this will be used for fastener storage, probably two drawers worth. Namely Metric fasteners and the blue bins will get cut down to fit. I'll break out the label when I start.


There's the FREE bucket that came with the purchase. I believe I'll be taking that one to the station since the guys there tend to go through buckets. . . . Here's the bin set the above bins came from along with a few left over from before. These are the same ones that I used previously in my fastener storage under the workbench.

Those bins are a bargain. I use them, too. I skip the racks.