OP
Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Growlertdi
Well-known member
Awesome.
casmurbax
Well-known member
UGH the cold weather is going to be hitting us tonight, Just got 10 inches of snow yesterday on top of the 22 last week.
So did your wood stove still have some fire in it this morning? That is great that your garage keeps that warm over night.
nice job
So did your wood stove still have some fire in it this morning? That is great that your garage keeps that warm over night.
nice job
xtremek
Well-known member
You're making me feel guilty about not finishing the insulation in the shop. I appreciate the prod. Glad you posted the cover build, I'll have to do something similar.
OP
No fire left. Since I clean it out every morning, I don't leave much ash build up and I think it falls through the grates. As I get a fire going, I clean out the ash pan so it doesn't get packed full.
I burn everyday I'm home, whether or not I'll be out there. I try to keep the concrete warm so it holds the heat on my duty days.
OP
Glad to make you fell guilty.
This is a damn good idea, think I may need to steal this idea from you lol
The cover build was a no brainer after feeling how cold it was during a normal heating day. The sheet of polyiso was about $20 and the 8" carriage bolts were a few more. I used some Loctite PL adhesive that I already had. So my total cost was +/- $25 and probably well worth it.
OP
OP
OP
I made another trip to Menards and grabbed another 2 sheets of 1" foil faced polyiso. My intent was to retrofit the other attic access covers. I knew they all had some foam on them but wasn't sure how much.
I paid $18.99/sheet and now this week, they are on sale for $14.98/sheet. I'm going to have them adjust the price for the 2 sheets I bought. If they don't, no big deal.
Hopefully this will help hold a little bit more heat inside.
I paid $18.99/sheet and now this week, they are on sale for $14.98/sheet. I'm going to have them adjust the price for the 2 sheets I bought. If they don't, no big deal.
Hopefully this will help hold a little bit more heat inside.
Attachments
Redwolf947
Well-known member
How big are the openings for your attic access holes? I hope in spring I can get rolling on my ceiling project again but I need to add access to the attic for future changes or updates..
OP
They vary in size and where they are at.
I've had to climb through some small scuttle hole while at work so I suggest to make them of decent size.
Are you trusses 24 OC ? I'd make them that wide and 3-4' long. While it may seem large, once you have to get through them, you'll understand.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, I would rough frame an access opening for a standard or compact drop-down attic stair/ladder. Even if you don't install one right away, re-framing is a pain.
The standard size is 22.5" by 54" and the compact size is 18" by 24." That compact size really limits what can go up in the attic. Anything bigger than a breadbasket would be a problem.
rixtrix1
Well-known member
Worst thing about an attic access ladder is the lack of insulation. That said, it's still kind of tight with a full size and I'm 5'9" and 170#. Getting some stuff up there is challenging, but not everyone uses the attic for storage. The house access hole is 22.5" x 36" and has 6" of polyiso on it.
OP
That's good advice Bob.
OP
Another good point too.
Redwolf947
Well-known member
Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately 16" OC I really only want access so if I need to add something like an extra outlet or a cord reel or something I can. No room for any storage at all.. I'm thinking I'll do a 16" by 32".. Again thanks
not to high jack but On my previous attached garage with trusses 16"OC. Builder cut truss cord and boxed in for a HD drop down staircase. House was still standing when I sold it 25 yrs later. You might want to research more.
krcoomer
Well-known member
I was working in an retail shop where the owner asked me to get rid of the old cooler piece in the attic. It was a pink, Owens Corning styrofoam cover for the steps and kind of looked like a turtle shell. I have not seen one since. If you centered it over the opening before folding the steps up it would sort of self center and provided some insulation for the steps. You could definitely tell when it was or was not over the steps.
A google search brought up what is probably the next generation of "attic tents".
Growlertdi
Well-known member
I just redid my attic insulation and in the opening for my fold down stairs, all I did was stuff an extra R38 Batt into the hole, then closed the stairs into it.
OP
Been awhile sine I made any updates so I figured a would add a little bit today.
I've been waiting on it to warm up a slight bit as I needed to replace some firebrick in my woodburner. I think, off hand, this is the 3rd heating season with the Daka wood stove. All except for 2 of the fire brick are broken and I bought some to replace them.
Before I started, I needed to clean out the ash. I also did some interior cleaning of the stove while I was at it. I did this first thing this morning so I could go in and take a shower afterwards.
Not the best picture, but you can see the smoke door/flap still inside.
I bought some fire brick at Menard's (Vogelzang brand) the other day when I stopped by. I bought three boxes but only needed 1 out of the third box.
I've been waiting on it to warm up a slight bit as I needed to replace some firebrick in my woodburner. I think, off hand, this is the 3rd heating season with the Daka wood stove. All except for 2 of the fire brick are broken and I bought some to replace them.
Before I started, I needed to clean out the ash. I also did some interior cleaning of the stove while I was at it. I did this first thing this morning so I could go in and take a shower afterwards.
Not the best picture, but you can see the smoke door/flap still inside.
I bought some fire brick at Menard's (Vogelzang brand) the other day when I stopped by. I bought three boxes but only needed 1 out of the third box.
OP
After cleaning and dumping some ash out of the pan, I used a brush to knock off some more ash sitting on top of the baffle and off the walls. When I was done. I also blew out the fan with compressed air. I wanted to oil the bearing but not sure if I can on my model, 520FB.
Fire brick starting to go back in.
Fire brick back in, done cleaning and getting some heat back in the garage.
Fire brick starting to go back in.
Fire brick back in, done cleaning and getting some heat back in the garage.
OP
Hopefully, this Spring/Summer, maybe after graduation, I'm planning on starting and addition to the Garage Refurb ®. I'm thinking at the moment and have drawn up some ideas and a materials list for a 12'x18' addition on the East side. It'll have 10' walls and a 9x8 O/H door to match the others. My thoughts are for a block foundation and concrete floor.
The plan is for the John Deere 1025R to reside in here. I've been stock piling Menard's gift cards and rebates to pay a majority of the cost. As of today, I have slightly over $900 in gift cards/rebates. I think a majority of the cost (out of pocket) will be the O/H door, footer and concrete floor.
I already picked up a things to add to what I have. I should have my j-bolts, hurricane clips, framing nails, roof nails, siding nails and sheathing nails. As I roll into a kitchen remodel, I'll be getting more rebates to add to the collection and will be picking up some small stuff as I make trips to buy stuff for that remodel.
My biggest question I need to answer is adding a man door. I have two options, an exterior entrance on the east side or a door between the new/old.
Adding another door on the exterior will create and issue with the door being on the blind side from the house. I will be able to gain entry without never going into the rest of the garage. . . . not really a big deal though.
Adding a door between the new/old, I think would keep it more secure. I can open the door during the Winter and get some heat in there. I will be insulating the new section as the cost to do so will not be "that much." I'm going to add a metal ceiling and OSB on the walls after the insulation goes in.
I know it's not much of an update but stayed tuned this Summer and hopefully we can get the ball rolling.
The plan is for the John Deere 1025R to reside in here. I've been stock piling Menard's gift cards and rebates to pay a majority of the cost. As of today, I have slightly over $900 in gift cards/rebates. I think a majority of the cost (out of pocket) will be the O/H door, footer and concrete floor.
I already picked up a things to add to what I have. I should have my j-bolts, hurricane clips, framing nails, roof nails, siding nails and sheathing nails. As I roll into a kitchen remodel, I'll be getting more rebates to add to the collection and will be picking up some small stuff as I make trips to buy stuff for that remodel.
My biggest question I need to answer is adding a man door. I have two options, an exterior entrance on the east side or a door between the new/old.
Adding another door on the exterior will create and issue with the door being on the blind side from the house. I will be able to gain entry without never going into the rest of the garage. . . . not really a big deal though.
Adding a door between the new/old, I think would keep it more secure. I can open the door during the Winter and get some heat in there. I will be insulating the new section as the cost to do so will not be "that much." I'm going to add a metal ceiling and OSB on the walls after the insulation goes in.
I know it's not much of an update but stayed tuned this Summer and hopefully we can get the ball rolling.
cbacres
Well-known member
Greetings Eric, hope you and family had a great Chrismas.
I like the interior door better than one outside where you can't see it. Thanks ne thing comes to mind, would a outside door benefit your shop as an emergency exit if needed?
Otherwise, I like being able to access without having to go outside, and I don't have snow down here.
Look forward to the build when it comes.
I like the interior door better than one outside where you can't see it. Thanks ne thing comes to mind, would a outside door benefit your shop as an emergency exit if needed?
Otherwise, I like being able to access without having to go outside, and I don't have snow down here.
Look forward to the build when it comes.
OP
Greetings Eric, hope you and family had a great Chrismas.
I like the interior door better than one outside where you can't see it. Thanks ne thing comes to mind, would a outside door benefit your shop as an emergency exit if needed?
Otherwise, I like being able to access without having to go outside, and I don't have snow down here.
Look forward to the build when it comes.
The outside would benefit as a secondary exit if there was also an interior door between the two spaces.
You do bring up a very valuable thought which I didn't consider, access to that side during inclimate weather or at night.
Things I have been running in my head is a set of pallet racking at the back of the space for some extra storage. If I had the interior door, I could get
something without going out in the weather.
xtremek
Well-known member
With as warm it's been, it's getting to the point where we only need the heat to dry the buildings out. Looking forward to seeing the kitchen remodel, and the addition. I vote two doors. but what do I know.
jbmatth
Well-known member
I like the idea of more storage space and the tractor storage, I'd personally go for the interior door only. It may be a few extra steps but worth the increased security (on the blind side) and less insulation gap to fight.
JB
JB
Redwolf947
Well-known member
I have to agree inside door only.. You could go with a 4' double door?.. or maybe a wide home built insulated door .. think 4" thick osb with styrofoam inside.. Good luck and I look forward to seeing this..
krcoomer
Well-known member
Add me to the interior door camp. I have no visual to the shed behind my garage. I end up having to traipse back there every couple of days just to make sure it is not open. I am going to put a security camera on the back of the garage so I can check the door without having to go out in the snowy or rainy times.
You will lose 7' of wall space with the interior, vs 3 1/2' with an exterior door because of losing space on both sides.
Another option would be to add both, the interior door could be added at a later time. If you go this direction, a double cylinder deadbolt would be the only way to secure the rest of your shop.
You will lose 7' of wall space with the interior, vs 3 1/2' with an exterior door because of losing space on both sides.
Another option would be to add both, the interior door could be added at a later time. If you go this direction, a double cylinder deadbolt would be the only way to secure the rest of your shop.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
One suggestion I made to a friend of mine who had to build a triple garage but with a interior wall to separate his side from his mother in laws side as it’s on a duplex property. I told him use a sliding barn door. Would this be an idea for you too?
OP
I've pretty much made up mind mind with the interior door. I'd rather shy away from the sliding barn door or making a door.
I feel I'll lose too much wall space in the tractor side with a sliding door. I think it'll lose more heat as well. I want to be able to open it and get some heat in there but only after getting the rest of the garage space warm.
Fully insulating the new space will help that and also help keep the current space warmer. I don't really have an issue with keeping it warm, generally, I can get it too warm. If I open the dividing door between the spaces, I can vent some of the heat over there but not really "lose" it.
I'm think a 36" door swinging into the new space. I usually let the Mustang reside in the east bay of the garage so I don't want to worry about accidentally swinging the door into the car.
What is probably going to be the deciding factor on size is the windows that occupy the east wall, or used to occupy. I boarded them up and covered them over years ago, before I sided the garage. The headers are still in place. I will have to reroute some wiring putting a door in the interior but that shouldn't be a big chore, I ran it and I can move it.
EDIT: While I was at Menard's yesterday, I picked up 2 rolls of 30lb tar paper. One more item marked off the list. I think next payday I'll grab drip edge and J-channel for the siding.
I feel I'll lose too much wall space in the tractor side with a sliding door. I think it'll lose more heat as well. I want to be able to open it and get some heat in there but only after getting the rest of the garage space warm.
Fully insulating the new space will help that and also help keep the current space warmer. I don't really have an issue with keeping it warm, generally, I can get it too warm. If I open the dividing door between the spaces, I can vent some of the heat over there but not really "lose" it.
I'm think a 36" door swinging into the new space. I usually let the Mustang reside in the east bay of the garage so I don't want to worry about accidentally swinging the door into the car.
What is probably going to be the deciding factor on size is the windows that occupy the east wall, or used to occupy. I boarded them up and covered them over years ago, before I sided the garage. The headers are still in place. I will have to reroute some wiring putting a door in the interior but that shouldn't be a big chore, I ran it and I can move it.
EDIT: While I was at Menard's yesterday, I picked up 2 rolls of 30lb tar paper. One more item marked off the list. I think next payday I'll grab drip edge and J-channel for the siding.
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krcoomer
Well-known member
Since you have a problem getting it too hot in the existing space, an interior door into the new space will offer the opportunity to draw some heat out and cool things down slower without going crazy and opening the OH doors.
chrisbalich
Member
First off, what a saga. Tremendous quantity and quality of work. Your [extremely well documented] tale is both informative and inspiring.
Secondly, while I wholeheartedly agree that an interior door to the upcoming expansion is the way to go, I wonder if there is really any point to having a door in lieu of a doorway. You have proven to be very thorough with insulation and plan to 'fully insulate' the expansion. So why not just have a doorway and not have to deal with the door itself when it's open?
OP
Some of my train of thought.
First, thank you for the compliment.
It'll be a space that doesn't always need to be heated, nor cooled if I choose to add a mini-split in the future.
I can also open that O/H door during off times off the year, like Spring/Fall when little or no conditioning is needed and still keep the rest of the garage secure. I can also attempt to keep the dust down from one side to the other.
I also considered moving all my steel storage over there also. Possibly adding some racking on the long wall. If I were to do that, I could move my chop saw over there, wall/bench mounted. The door would keep that **** from contaminating the rest of the shop space.
Growlertdi
Well-known member
sounds like a fun project to follow. looking forward to following along.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, doors opening into covered working/parking areas, reduce space and are an encroachment into other spaces or use. Might a pocket door be best, it saves wall space or as previously suggested a slider as you can incorporate that into a storage space. Good luck
OP
Thanks for the compliment guys. I realize I haven't added much content but the garage was pretty much done after all that work. Still it's going to get started back up hopefully this Summer. (not sure if we're going to have a Spring LOL)
We do have one issue that needs to get taken care of first. Let me throw this out there, check your health insurance plan for what they'll pay for air ambulance, life flight/med flight or whatever they call it in your area. You might be surprised, doesn't matter if it's an emergency in-network or out of network.
OP
Pocket door not really an option, well not in my book. Having the door swing into the tractor side, (Garage barn ?) should be fine. It'll mainly be for parking of the John Deere.
Once I start laying everything out more, I might see it's a problem, we'll cross that bridge then.