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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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NUTTSGT

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What are those lights?



The light fixtures are from HD. Same ones I used through out the garage. A 8' T8 fixture with four 48" bulbs.

Here's a link to the HD site.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Metalux...em-Fluorescent-Strip-Light-8TSSF232/305016127

The bulbs came from Lowe's. I used a gift card to pay for part of them. They are a direct replacement LED so no messing with the ballast. I wanted 5000K for the color but they didn't carry them. I went to 6500K as a whiter/bluer color rather than go back towards the yellow on the spectrum. I thought the 5000K was white, holy cow, these are whiter.

Here's the link to Lowes:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-LED-32-...Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-20-Pack/5000762879


your lights look fantastic and it shows off all your hard work nicely too. :bowdown:

the box not so much, but I guess it will hold stuff.

if you don't have favorite methods of removing rust from your tools you find there is a great rust removal thread and here's the link with a few options.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=473607

Thanks Drives, the lights lit up the space nicely.

The box, yeah, it's really rough. It won't be a gem on any planet except maybe and asteroid. It'll be a work in progress. You can't expect much for less than $14.
 
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A couple of quick cell pics from the other night. I took all the drawers out of the box to see what I was working with. They will also need to come out to get cleaned up and painted.


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Looks like I need to clean the cracked lens on my camera too.
 

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Hopefully, these pictures are better of the tool box.


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This is the offending slide.
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NUTTSGT

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I finished up a small task today after getting another tube of black caulk. Evn though I used ZIP sheathing and sill seal, when it was in the single digit temps a few weeks ago, I could feel cold air coming in around the sill plate. Hopefully this solves that issue.

Why black ? I've considered painting that course of block black.


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Then it was time to bring in the pallet racking and get to work. I first marked and cut down the uprights to 9'8" to easily clear the ceiling.

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Once cut, I had to straighten out the top brace on one of the uprights.

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Then start getting the god awful green paint covered up.
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The uprights are ready to be finished.
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I need to get another scuffing pad for my 4.5" grinder and do some beams. Once that is done, I'll wipe them down, prime some bare metal and roll some black Rustoleum on them.
 

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NUTTSGT

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The new lights look great. Will the pallet rack go on the back wall?

How warm is the addition now since you have had the ability to heat it for 2+ weeks?

This section will go up in this corner, along the side wall to the back wall.

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I'd like to attach the other upright (only have 3 of them) to this one, not sure how without buying another upright. However, it's going to be dependent on how the backhoe sits on the dolley underneath this section of packing.



The garage addition is nice and warm now. I think it might take slightly longer to heat up compared to the rest of the garage, but it stays warm.

:D
 
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Always a pleasure to see your work, Eric.

Thanks. Going to try to get started early today. I need to go find another 1 or 2 scuffing (paint remover) pads for the grinder. Do some of the beams, get s coat of primer on them and set all of it up to paint.

Hopefully, since I work my shift tomorrow, that gives it plenty of time to dry, 36 hours.
 

drivesitfar

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if you want to connect those beams to uprights without having separate sections after you get the first pair of uprights up it's easier with a second person holding one end, but i've put up a lot of them by myself.

here's a picture of 2 smaller 6.5 foot wide racks that Costco sells connected together to make a 19.5 foot run.

another nice thing about the style/type/kind of rack you have is you don't have to put a shelf/beam near the floor so you can roll toolboxes, machines, lawnmowers and such under the rack and have all that storage above them.

if you don't have help sometimes setting up a cabinet or even a big toolbox on one end can help until you get a couple beams in place. or a ladder keeping uprights sort of in place while you get beams connected works too.

NOTE: I use sharpies to mark up the uprights where i want the beams to go cause it's not always easy to get them level if you just eyeball them while installing.
 

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Definitely going to use the tip on the Sharpie to mark the uprights.

I going to put one beam down low for added stability. It should hold them while I put the other beams in place.
 

drivesitfar

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you should be fine and just take your time. also one thing to think about is that sometimes used racks that have been thrown around a bit don't fit as easily as when they were new so be patient. I've also had to move a shelf up or down a bit cause one level's holes were a bit off.

good luck!!
 
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NUTTSGT

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you should be fine and just take your time. also one thing to think about is that sometimes used racks that have been thrown around a bit don't fit as easily as when they were new so be patient. I've also had to move a shelf up or down a bit cause one level's holes were a bit off.

good luck!!

Thanks Drives.

The one single beam at the bottom is going to be the bent beam that they guy tossed in for free. Since It'll be at the bottom and the next set with be about 5' up, I should be able to persuade it where it needs to be.

I considered to just stock pile it but I think it would be best to use it in this location.
 
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I picked up some new scuffing pads and got busy. I did one beam at a time instead of sitting a couple on the saw horses. My luck, I would have knocked one off and it would have cut my extension cored for the grinder.


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As you can tell, I made a green mess on my floor.

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Scuffed, cleaned and a coat of primer. I ran out of the gray primer I had and grabbed a can of rusty metal primer.

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Pallet racking painted....well like 95% of it. Once it's together, I'm going to get a couple cans of spray Rustoleum and do the bottom/inside spaces that I really can't reach with the foam roller.

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I have the heat cranked up right now, 77°F and the wood burner is stoked for the night. Hopefully, it'll be nice and dry Thursday morning.
 

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Well, I went to lift the first upright to it's vertical position and found an issue. Apparently, I looked at the inches on the tape measure when I originally cut them. Instead of cutting them to 9'8" I cut them to 11'8".

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This was an easy fix and only required cutting more off. Fortunately, I didn't cut them too short.

Once I started to get them set up, I kept them away from the walls so I could put them together from all sides. This created a new issue. . . atleast thought at first.

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I thought I would have to take them back apart to get them in place as the position of the racking and the lights didn't jive.
 

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So I played pallet rack shuffle and kept rotating one end then the other, back and forth. I got it far enough that the uprights cleared the lights.

attachment.php


Then I set out to touch up the paint and areas I missed. The spray can made quick work of it.

Once the paint was touched up, I measured for the wire shelving. I cut the first piece to check fit. Since they are made for 42" racking, I had to cut the wire and supports down.

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drivesitfar

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have you driven buy some commercial warehouses in your area cause at times they throw good racks in the scrap bin or put them outside to deal with later? of course if you are matching up style and width with existing ones you have it's a little different animal trying to find a match, but thought i'd mention where I picked up a few.

glad you figured out how to set them up and move them around your new lights. looks like you also did a custom fit on the wire racks. WELL DONE!!

you are going to love having big racks to hold your stuff while some of your tools are rolled and parked underneath them now.

I have no idea when you sleep cause you and your thread are maybe the busiest on GJ and i know you are not retired like some of us.
 
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Drives, fortunately my work schedule allows me to visit GJ quite ... notice my post count. However all that time is not spent posting, there is plenty of time behind the scenes doing Mod work. We get a stack of fake spam accounts as new members everyday. I generally leave a tab open and between posting, check out new members.


Picked up another upright today

attachment.php


this is a interlake upright and wider. It will take a little work getting where it needs to be rather than a 5 hour round trip drive to get another one.

Also picked up a new vise for future welding table. . . hopefully. Got $65 in Menard's rebates, so put it towards the purchase.
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drivesitfar

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I'm very curious how you are going to make an upright that is wider tie in with the existing ones you already have set up.

when I mentioned you get a lot done it was about how quickly you've managed to finish the inside of your new garage. that said I want to give you a BIG SHOUT OUT for you doing your MOD duties here on GJ too.

WELL DONE!!

also good luck on getting the new (used) upright to work with your other shelving.
 

Bob Heine

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Not much progress in the last few days. I did pick up a hose reel and some Flexzilla to "re-hose" it. Along with a bag of some valves and fittings.


attachment.php
Eric, I suspect it's too late but I discovered a 50-foot 1/2" Flexzilla air hose fits on those bargain reels. Have to pay extra attention to the rewind process but the volume increase is significant, especially with V-style fittings.
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NUTTSGT

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I'm very curious how you are going to make an upright that is wider tie in with the existing ones you already have set up.

when I mentioned you get a lot done it was about how quickly you've managed to finish the inside of your new garage. that said I want to give you a BIG SHOUT OUT for you doing your MOD duties here on GJ too.

WELL DONE!!

also good luck on getting the new (used) upright to work with your other shelving.

Drives, as far as narrowing the upright, it was going to be cutting a section out and welding in a splice joint. The upright I got was originally 23' long and the guy cut it down to where I needed it. I looked at several sections of different stuff that he had, including some shorter sections of what I bought.

The shorter stuff was wider and the two taller sections weren't on that stack but standing on end. I assumed they were the same width as the other stuff but didn't check. . . tillI got home.

I was happy to find out, they were the correct width, 36".

:rocker:
 
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Eric, I suspect it's too late but I discovered a 50-foot 1/2" Flexzilla air hose fits on those bargain reels. Have to pay extra attention to the rewind process but the volume increase is significant, especially with V-style fittings.
attachment.php

Thanks Bob. The rest of my stuff is all 3/8 reels or hoses. I never really thought about going to 1/2" hose.
 
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Spent some time out in the garage today. Got all the beam scuffed and swept the **** off the floor. I wiped the uprights down and then set them up as to paint them vertically.

I thought this might be easier as painting flat took up so much floor space.

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Holding them in place was as simple as two C-clamps and a piece of angle iron.

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Then it was time to wipe down the beams and paint them. I'll be touching up any spots after they are set up.



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They look really nice. That looks like they'll give you a ton of storage.

I have way more beams than I need but I bought them because I was there. He made me a deal I was happy with. He tossed in an extra beam, which was bent. That beam is already in use. I bought 5 sections of wire shelving, he tossed in a 6th.

Don't need them but have them.... didn't need to paint all of them but figured I'd only make the mess one time. The extras will get hooked in on the backside of the racking. ...out of the way until needed.
 
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Forgot to include these pictures off my phone. These are prior to painting.

Had to cut my other upright down and did so with cut-off wheel on the grinder.

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Then I cleaned the cut ends with a 60 grit flap wheel and caught my finger as well. Ouch.

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Today, I cut all the wire shelves down.
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Bolt cutters for the rod and cut off wheel for the reinforcement beams.
 

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