Garage/Shop doors, Options

[383 240z]

I have 2 standard overhead garage doors on the fron ot my shop now. They are in pretty bad shape. They still work, but the tracks are damaged, doors are dented, and I don't like them, because in the open position, they block some of my lights.

I've been mulling over options, New overheads (cheap, still have same problems) roll ups (expensive, unattractive) sliding barn. (hard to seal, by-pass style won't work on shop) custom built carraige doors (expensive, look best).

I'm re-siding the front of the shop this summer, so I can frame for them at the same time. The RO is 7'x9' I'm thinking 2 doors per opening. So 2 7'x4.5' doors per opening. I'm also thinking 1/4" gap for clearance, that can be sealed with simple weatherstriping, 3 10" T hinges per door, and a cable strung from upper outside corner to lower inside corner to prevent sagging.

Only downside I cn think of is during the snow season, I will have to shovel to open the doors, and I will need to drill the concrete for lower locking pins.

Other issues I need to work on. The exterior trim of the doors is made of 2x10's. where they contact the cement floor there is rot. I planned on replacing it with PT lumber and painting it. It's my understanding that one should not allow wood to contact cement. Should I leave a small gap? or just let it go? I'll post a few pics of the front of the shop. You will have to excuse the mess in front of it. I just finished a HUGE thrash to get my Jeep ready for MOAB. This is the first time I've had off since I got back. Keith

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I replaced the doors on my garage, I also reframed the openings as I raised the concrete floor. I put a small piece of PT wood down to contact the concrete and set the 2x10 on it.





EDIT: the way my garage is framed, it's not really part of the supporting structure, somewhat hard to explain.

 

[kbs2244]

I would repair and replace what you now have.

The blocking of the lights can be corrected with a door panel with windows,
Or by fabbing some uni-strut across but under the track span.
Then you can put the lights on the uni-strut with the doors going above it.

 

[coolreed]

I would replace your garage doors with newer, lighter, insulated door. they will make your garage quieter, and warmer/cooler depending on the climate. Just a win/win deal and money
well spent.

 

[383 240z]

NUTTSGT, could you please post a pic of your shop doors? My wife is pushing for the carraige as they will really match the look of the rest of the property. Plus I need another project (notice the sarcasm?) Keith

 

[Zeke]

You can certainly buy a carriage looking door that rolls up. Best of 2 worlds. Might be beyond the budget, but quick and easy with no snow to shovel or holes to drill.

kbs2244 suggested how to light the area below the raised door. Actually, how often do you need to do this? Look at Jack Olsen's lights for another solution. In fact, consider his design and add in that it swings.

On the 2 x 10 that rotted: lots of ways to do this. A piece of metal under the end of the wood and some air gap will prevent rotting as much as anything. I know what I'd do. I'd get a very simplified version of this in foam core vinyl and cut off the rot.

 

[383 240z]

I will be replacing ALL of the wood on the front of the shop. Is it OK to put PT in direct contact with the concrete floor? I was thinking of cutting it short (1/2" or so) and filling it with RTV or similar. ZEKE that part you posted, where did you find that? They would look great. Keith

 

[Zeke]

I googled some images of a "pilaster base." You can find foam core moldings at some lumber yards and make a low profile base wrap to cover where you cut out and replaced the bottom few inches of trim.

Even PT lumber can't withstand a lot of abuse. Don't let it sit in contact with damp concrete if you can provide a barrier. Sure, you could pump RTV under it if you like. I understand that a small copper barrier provides enough toxicity to ward off insects that like the taste of wood.

 

[quatchi]

My opening was framed with regular 2x6's and when I changed my door, I changed to PT 2x6's with a vinyl 1x2 plank as the "sole" that contacted concrete. Once filled and painted, can't tell it apart from the wood.

Something like this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_113010-1487...ntURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=evertrue+vinyl&facetInfo=
I had some leftover from another project.

 

[Gary S]

I don't even want to imagine the hell of living with carriage doors in bad weather. Snow would be a real PITA, but wind would be even worse.
I'd just replace the doors with the same style. Blocked lights hardly matter because they are blocked only when the doors are open, and at that time you have sunshine that replaces the light 100x over.

 

[383 240z]

Here is a quick pic I took at the big box store, it's kinda what I'm expecting them to look like when done.

Gary S. What do you mean about bad weather? Snow I get not a big deal there, we dont get huge snowfalls I can shovel. What do you mean about wind? Keith

 

[GGB]

I've got carriage doors on my barn/garage, and love the way they look. But I'm planning to replace the carriage doors with sectional overhead doors, as they are a royal PITA when it's raining and especially when I have to clear them to get out the tractor when it has snowed. Although you can put openers on carriage doors, I'd still probably have to clear the snow to use them.

Somewhere I've seen where someone with a little creativity had applied 1/4" cedar or some type of wood to make their overhead doors look like carriage doors, without the factory price. I'm now trying to find where I saw it, and if I can find it, I'll pass it along. If anyone else knows about this, I'd appreciate your letting me and the OP know.

GGB

 

[383 240z]

GGB, is this what your referring to? http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/made-my-own-inexpensive-wood-garage-carriage-doors-120576/
I looked at this, and it doesn't solve my issues with the overhead doors. it is however, very atractive. Keith

 

[Gary S]

What do you mean about wind? Keith[/QUOTE]


Open a carriage door on a really windy day and you won't have to ask. You will have to replace the door after the wind rips it from the building.

 

[383 240z]

My shop is surrounded by trees, Wind doesn't really pick up much speed out my way. Thanks for the heads up, I now will not be putting them on the barn that is out in the open. Keith

 

[GGB]

GGB, is this what your referring to? http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/made-my-own-inexpensive-wood-garage-carriage-doors-120576/
I looked at this, and it doesn't solve my issues with the overhead doors. it is however, very atractive. Keith

Actually, no, but that is even better than the one I saw. Looks very promising. Thanks!

GGB

 

[AndyL]

and I don't like them, because in the open position, they block some of my lights.

Just a suggestion... If the issue is open they block your lights, that can be solved. Fullview/glass/Polycarbonate can let the light through.

I've done a few lately where I've mounted these newfangled LED lights to the door faces, so when they're up - they're overhead lights (if you're wondering - reel cord (same as we use for safeties on commercial doors) to provide power to the lights). Even mounted some allen bradley switches on one - so the ceiling light cut out, and the door mounted lights automagically came on when open.

 

[NUTTSGT]

NUTTSGT, could you please post a pic of your shop doors? My wife is pushing for the carraige as they will really match the look of the rest of the property. Plus I need another project (notice the sarcasm?) Keith

I only have regular overheaad doors and not carriage house doors. If you still want to see pictures, the easiest thing to do is scroll through my refurb thread in my sig. All the pictures will be in there.