Garage Step/Stair Ideas

[billconner]

I'd think a simple 4 sided box with ply top and composite on that would be simpler than 4 stringers.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd think a simple 4 sided box with ply top and composite on that would be simpler than 4 stringers.

I agree. I wouldn't be cutting stringers for this, but thw OP seemed to want to go that way

 

[no704]

Expanded metal on a steel frame. Or Al if you are into tig welding.

 

[CraigStu]

My SIL did boxes for his house to deck 3 rises. Solid as concrete. I would do boxes for the OP situation too. So much easier than dealing w/ stringers and they end up fully enclosed more easily too since no angles need to be cut for sides. Although it would be a little wasteful he could use deck facia boards for the treads over his 2x boxes. It comes in 12ft long 12" wide and 3/8" thick boards so treads could be up to 12" deep. I used it for the single step off of our front porch. Dozens of colors and super smooth or wood grain surfaces are available at about $100 each.

 

[Just_Steve]

Yes I have thought about and looked at composite boards

I built my 12x20 patio with Apex and it's held up nice

Pressure treated stringers and Trex boards, been outdoors since 1995, no issues.

 

[D45]

I do like the PT stringers and composite stair treads

 

[Fav Onefour]

I do like the PT stringers and composite stair treads

I'd agree.
You can still use PT wood and composite decking if build a box system.

 

[D45]

While I do like the box construction, I also wouldn't want to have 3 boxes stacked up

If I can design and build a two box setup that is what I would prefer, if possible

 

[billconner]

I liked the boxes so it kept things from falling under. Sort of sealed.

2 or 3 boxes - which to me means 7 1/3" risers 5 1/2" risers - is a preference. I'd always choose to not be much over 6" so that would be 3 boxes.

 

[Fav Onefour]

While I do like the box construction, I also wouldn't want to have 3 boxes stacked up

If I can design and build a two box setup that is what I would prefer, if possible

Three boxes would be too many parts connected together for a small step. If one tiny small piece is out of whack it's going to be a wobbler.
You're on the right track with your thinking. Make a solid base and do a two step box on top.

I can tell you that the advice about even step height is a big deal. We bought a place with some old hack repairs. One was a three step section that came off a landing at 90 degrees . Each step had different height and none matched the upper section. Those three steps dang near got me a few times while hauling stuff. Maybe the brain gets used to those things over time but I didn't wait. Redoing those steps was one of the first projects.

 

[mike93lx]

Three boxes would be too many parts connected together for a small step. If one tiny small piece is out of whack it's going to be a wobbler.
You're on the right track with your thinking. Make a solid base and do a two step box on top.

I can tell you that the advice about even step height is a big deal. We bought a place with some old hack repairs. One was a three step section that came off a landing at 90 degrees . Each step had different height and none matched the upper section. Those three steps dang near got me a few times while hauling stuff. Maybe the brain gets used to those things over time but I didn't wait. Redoing those steps was one of the first projects.

Why would the number of steps impact stability? The bottom box is the only one in contact with the ground and can easily be leveled with 2x4 legs on the inside

 

[cgrutt]

Didn't read through all this but you can order aluminum treads that go over the wood. They can be made with a "grippy" / safety tread or straight aluminum (grooved for slip resistance). I recapped a set of stairs in commercial office with these it came out really nice and is pretty much maintenance free. I'll try to find a pic. I wouldn't come off that level with threshold I'd leave it same style. Surprised there is no handrail.

ETA here's pic

 

[cgrutt]

I also "pretty upped" a set of standard garage stairs for a customer with oak tread caps and composite risers. They're sold at the big box stores. You need to cut nose off existing tread and the new risers and trends glue onto the old stairs.

Don't have a picture of original stairs but they were just builder grade. This pic is after risers and tread caps were installed.



Completed with railings etc.



Side view

 

[larry4406]

I also "pretty upped" a set of standard garage stairs for a customer with oak tread caps and composite risers. They're sold at the big box stores. You need to cut nose off existing tread and the new risers and trends glue onto the old stairs.

Don't have a picture of original stairs but they were just builder grade. This pic is after risers and tread caps were installed.



Completed with railings etc.



Side view

Handrails aren't required till you get to 4 rise stairs. Current Code reads "more than 3 risers".

Those tread caps create unequal risers. The first riser at bottom of stair increases by the thickness of the cap, then the risers are equal, and then the one prior to the landing is short unless the landing is capped with equal thickness. Course this is all moot if the cap thickness is less than 3/8" (allowable riser variance min to max within the flight).

 

[cgrutt]

Handrails aren't required till you get to 4 rise stairs. Current Code reads "more than 3 risers".

Those tread caps create unequal risers. The first riser at bottom of stair increases by the thickness of the cap, then the risers are equal, and then the one prior to the landing is short unless the landing is capped with equal thickness. Course this is all moot if the cap thickness is less than 3/8" (allowable riser variance min to max within the flight).

Railing may not be required but still may be useful esp if occupant is or has elderly or disabled people living and/or visiting premises.

Top landing "pad" in stair case shown was capped with same tread as put on stairs and finished with hardwood flooring but the treads are approx 3/8 thick.

ETA the aluminum caps on the commercial stairs are very thin, about 1/4" or even less. It is just the thickness of the aluminum extrusion. In this case it replaced vinyl tread caps that were delaminating and removed, so net increase of maybe 1/8th of an inch from what was there before. In any event much safer than what she had

 

[Joemctag]

I did a house with concrete steps in the garage for a customer. Broom finish for all surfaces. Customer loves it.

I plan to replace my similar garage stair with concrete this summer when I install my Race Deck floor.

Yes you can place a platform (landing) in the stair, it will need to be 3'x3'. It could be flush with the bottom of the metal door sill, 1 rise down from the metal sill, etc (wherever you want it in the flight). Looks like you are stuck with a 3-rise stair (3R).

In new construction (at least in my region), the stair total rise is measured from the floor to the top of the door adjustable sill (not metal sill pan). Measure this and divide by your 3 risers to get your rise height.

The number of risers remains the same whether you have a landing or not. IRC Code today will limit you to a max of 7.75" rise height. Many areas (including mine) take exception to the IRC Code and allow a max rise of 8.25" and a minimum tread depth of 9". Old building Codes typically enforced the 8.25" max,

The number of treads is one less than the number of risers, in your case 2.

If your slab is pitched, this affects the total rise measurement. Treads are typically in the 10.5-11.5" depth range for comfort, so recheck your total rise measurement at around 22" out from the adjustable sill. If you add a landing (and have a pitched slab), this pushes your stair out even further thus increasing the total rise.

Adding a landing may push your total stair out enough that it encroaches on vehicles, so be mindful of this.

Stair guy here. Larry’s correct about everything. I’d recommend a landing if possible, but even with floor in house; not top of threshold and not one step down. Single steps down are unexpected and I myself miss seeing them and get surprised. You’re allowed to do it. I just wouldn’t. Steps down could be turned 90 degrees or at an angle between straight and 90.
Good luck.

 

[larry4406]

Here is the 3R concrete stair I mentioned earlier in this thread. It was poured in one shot with a stiff mix, manually vibrated by banging forms with hammer. Forms were strip within hours of pour as it set up and a broom finish applied to the surfaces.

Note how the top concrete riser is less tall compared to the others. This is because the rise is to the top of the adjustable sill.

I am planning similar for my 2R garage stair.

 

[DGersic]

Three boxes would be too many parts connected together for a small step. If one tiny small piece is out of whack it's going to be a wobbler.
You're on the right track with your thinking. Make a solid base and do a two step box on top.

I can tell you that the advice about even step height is a big deal. We bought a place with some old hack repairs. One was a three step section that came off a landing at 90 degrees . Each step had different height and none matched the upper section. Those three steps dang near got me a few times while hauling stuff. Maybe the brain gets used to those things over time but I didn't wait. Redoing those steps was one of the first projects.

The brain definitely learns the steps, with whatever weird spacing they have. My parents garage floor sank several inches at the back, where there is an entry door to the kitchen. There is a single step, positioned half way up the wall, so you step up once, then again to the kitchen floor. As the garage floor sank, Dad added wood under the step to support it. So that first step is a good 3” to 4” more than the second step. I got used to this as a kid, and never really noticed it. A few years ago, he had the floor mud jacked and got it back to where it was supposed to be, fixing the step spacing as well. I haven’t lived there in 35+ years, but my brain still knows the wrong step spacing and I trip over it every time I go up or down that step if I’m not careful.

 

[mike93lx]

Here is the 3R concrete stair I mentioned earlier in this thread. It was poured in one shot with a stiff mix, manually vibrated by banging forms with hammer. Forms were strip within hours of pour as it set up and a broom finish applied to the surfaces.

Note how the top concrete riser is less tall compared to the others. This is because the rise is to the top of the adjustable sill.

I am planning similar for my 2R garage stair.

What do they use for the top toe kick? Looks like concrete in the rendering but I have to imagine it's a deck board or some 3/4 trim?

 

[D45]

Garage floor coating is done and drying, need to start working on the stairs this week

 

[larry4406]

What do they use for the top toe kick? Looks like concrete in the rendering but I have to imagine it's a deck board or some 3/4 trim?

That's not a rendering, that's the actual picture of the concrete. Not sure what was up with my iphone camera at the time.

Top riser (toe kick) is concrete.

 

[mike93lx]

That's not a rendering, that's the actual picture of the concrete. Not sure what was up with my iphone camera at the time.

Top riser (toe kick) is concrete.

Wow, really looks like a cad program.

How durable is that thin piece?

 

[larry4406]

Wow, really looks like a cad program.

How durable is that thin piece?

Yeah I can't explain the quality of that picture, about 4 phones ago....

That top piece is about 2.5" thick from memory. I think we poured that without the door in position and just 5/8" rock behind the forms (no other drywall). To my knowledge, no issues to date and I am sure I would have heard about it (VP's house at the company I work for, I managed construction of his home).

 

[D45]

Well I think a 3 step stringer will work. I thought it was going to be too tall!

Went to HD today and it's 19-3/4" tall

10" deep step

So with a 2x12 board on each step and a 1x8 ish board under the stringers, the top step 2x12 board will be close to the aluminum threshold .......I think?

Now, should I use liquid nails under the 1x? board or some Tapcons, or both screws and adhesive

Each stringer was $16.......I will definitely use 3 or 4, even for a 40" width I might plan

 

[mike93lx]

You need to adjust the bottom riser to make sure the step height is the same, so placing it as is on top of a board likely won't work. It needs to be the height of the other risers, minus 1.5 for your tread and minus the thickness of whatever you use underneath.

I think I would use a 2x4 and notch the front bottom of the stringer to slot on top. It helps with install as it gives a positive stop for the stringer

 

[D45]

I'm thinking about solid core composite tread step boards, if I can find them without the side grooves (for the hidden fastener systems)

 

[walta]

How sure are you all 3 steps will be exactly the same height when finished?


Walta

 

[D45]

3 step stringers will work well

I'm thinking about making it 40" wide, to go out alittle wider than the door frame

4 stringers evenly spaced out over 40"........picture just for reference

A 2x8 PT board underneath or a 1x8, I need to do some height measurements with both to see how/where the top stair tread will be , compared to the door bottom threshold

It will be nice to have 3 steps up, rather than 2 steps that I previously had

 

[D45]

I need to remove the white painted 1x6 nailed up against the wall under the threshold today

 

[D45]

The 1x6 or 1x8 was particle board and disintegrated when removing the nails

The nails also did not appear to be long or thick enough for stair attachment, atleast in my opinion

 

[D45]

I mocked up the stringers, first with a 1x4 underneath then with a 2 x stringer placed on its side, to act like a 2x12 underneath

The 1x board underneath left a not so flush gap between the top stair tread and the threshold

A 2x board underneath left a pretty flush fitment for the top stair tread and the threshold

I need to patch and paint this week then do the stairs next weekend

 

[D45]

For the backing board on the wall and under the threshold, I'm using a pressure treated 2x8.......

Under the stringers on the ground, I'm using a pressure treated 2x12 with Liquid Nails and I will use some TapCon screws into the concrete to secure the structure

 

[mike93lx]

For the backing board on the wall and under the threshold, I'm using a pressure treated 2x8.......

Under the stringers on the ground, I'm using a pressure treated 2x12 with Liquid Nails and I will use some TapCon screws into the concrete to secure the structure

Lol. Yeah, that'll work

 

[D45]

Anyone ever use vinyl stair tread covers?

They are like $35 each with some traction ribs or diamond pattern

My stairs are 42" wide and I used 2x12 treads

It's rock solid with 4 stringers, 3 Tapcons and Liquid Nails, and 9 anchor screws going into the joist under the door

 

[Youngandfree]

I painted my wooden basement stairs with paint that had grit additive that the paint store sells, my old dog needed more grip going up and down. Used the same paint to do a ramp off our porch for him.

 

[dandan111]

I’d take treads back off. Paint the frame of it and be done. Looks great. I wouldn’t pain the steps.

 

[D45]

Using 4 stringers and increasing the width really made a huge difference