Garage with a loft - drawings & pics?

[diiulio]

Yes, now that I have all the material up into the loft I will toss a railing up there. I may even toss a temp railing on the stairs themselves.

I actually don't have many pics of the FJ40, but I can probably get some. It is solid, no rust, no repairs, but it does have a Chevy 350 in it. I bought it with the 350 otherwise I would have left the 2F in there. I actually consider going back to the original, but it is nice being able to press the gas a little and passing people at highway speeds. It is the original 4 speed with an advance adapters bell housing. Great truck.

I had a 74 Bronco that I sold right before back to NY last year.

My current project is putting a flathead into my little model A. I yanked the Olds 303 out of it and built up a 8ba flathead. This will be the first project "in" the garage.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Unless I'm missing something, it appears the intended end result has no man door into the garage and no access to second floor from inside the garage.

 

[diiulio]

PS, correct. The entrance to the shop will be through the 10' wide x 9' high opening in the back. I am building carriage doors and the one will have a lockset on it. The man door on the side of the garage will only access the upstairs loft. They will be treated as completely separate units.

 

[diiulio]

Had a good weekend. Roof is 100% done, glad I hired that out. House wrap is complete on 3 of 4 walls and started the last wall. Had help from a good friend on Saturday to get the wrap on the dormers and the first row around the bottom.

I needed the moral support for going up on the roof to get the dormer sides done. That sucked. I couldn't be a roofer that is for sure.

Windows were delivered on Friday also, so I can start throwing those in too.

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[bj383ss]

Been following along on your build. Love the design of you garage. The drone shot it appears you have the biggest garage in the neighborhood.

Bret

 

[firebirdparts]

Nice work!

 

[sean Buick 76]

I am VERY Impressed!!!

 

[Platonic Solid]

In response to your lighting layout in the lighting and electrical section:

FWIW, you can achieve the same result using 2-lamp 4ft LED strip light from page 1 of The Best Light Fixture thread (linked below). Cost is about $34 per 2-lamp strip fixture with housing (+ shipping). It's certainly not as aesthetically pleasing as the flat panel, but it is a garage. The layout remains the same regardless.

 

[diiulio]

Great, thanks PS.

bj383ss, it is barely the biggest. Next door is pretty close and actually same height, but theirs is taller if you consider the cupola. Large garage/carriage houses are not out of the ordinary in Saratoga Springs.

 

[diiulio]

I am going to make wood doors next spring, carriage style. I was going to do it now, but I can't stain them outside due to the temps here and I can't do it in the house with having to build six 5' x 9' doors. So... I am going to frame up some doors out of 2x4's, place hinges and make temp carriage doors for winter so I can work in there and have the place secure.

QUESTION is... what do sheath the framing with? Should I use plywood and paint it or use underlayment or OSB or BC plyw? I am thinking it will be 3/4", but maybe 1/2" is more than enough. I am not a fan of T-11 for this application.

The garage will be Tyvek for the next few months until I side it, so appearance isn't all that of a concern.

 

[Striker-7]

I'd go with OSB, as it's less apt to warp. The "big box" T-11 stuff I used for my shed is OSB, and the faux carriage doors I made from it are reasonably straight. Since yours will be significantly larger, 1/2" T&G OSB would be decent.

My doors are simple: stiles and stretchers are 1x6 along the door frame, clamping the T-11 in between them as the shear panel I|I where the 'I' is a 1x6 on either side. In the center where the doors will meet, stagger the 1x6 stiles so they overlap a bit, maybe 3/4 to 1", to interlock the doors for wind resistance. Use deck screws to assemble everything; you can break it all down and reuse the materials elsewhere once the permanent doors are ready.

 

[diiulio]

Striker, do you have a pic?

 

[Striker-7]

Like I stated, temporary doors for your use, not bad for a mower shed out of spare lumber. I misstated how they were made, the next couple of shots show how I threw them together.

Basically, they are just a frame and trim sandwiching a piece of OSB. The inside frame for these were made of 2x3s, fastening the OSB to the frame with deck screws, and covering those with the decorative 1x3s. You can see the lip formed by the offset 2x3, to cover the gap between it and the other door.

This shows the stationary door. Note the 2x3 frame member standing proud of the OSB on the stationary door, which forms the other half of the air seal between the doors.

The stationary door unlatched and open. I use barrel bolts at the top and bottom to keep it closed, and give the larger door a stronger latch point. In your case, a larger slide bolt at the top could be used with your frame header to stop one side of the door set, and a slide bolt at the base of the door to pin the other door for security purposes.

 

[diiulio]

Thanks. That is exactly what I am picturing. I was considering ripping the 2x4 down to 2x3, but now I am wondering why I wouldn’t just lay down the 2x4s so I have a 1-1/2” thick frame plus 3/4” sheathing for a total of 2-1/4” thick.

 

[Striker-7]

I'd stand the 2x4s to keep the total 'depth' of the doors at 4", you want the rigidity of the 2x4 to keep the door from warping. The OSB isn't going to rack, so you don't need the strength of the 2-bys to keep the door from sagging, if the entire door is made of a single sheet. Since that's not going to be the case...

If you use lap-joint or even tongue & groove OSB, I'd lay the panels horizontally when building up the doors. There's nothing readily available in 9' length, at least that I'm aware of in the local "big box". Glue the lap / T&G edges together for panel strength, and since the door is going to be wide, run a diagonal 2x4 from bottom hinge corner to upper corner to keep those joints from shearing.

 

[kasander]

Looks like you've pulled ahead on me on your progress! Nice work. Curious why you framed the dormer walls inside the rafters instead of sitting them on top of the rafters?

Yours:

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Mine:

 

[Striker-7]

Hello? <knock>

I was curious if you made any progress on the doors. Man, this weather has been nuts...

 

[diiulio]

Yea, I took a hiatus from the work. Spending the last month and half with the kids trying to keep warm. We had a cold spell of negative temperatures for a while. We are back into the teens this week so I probably will get back into it next week. Started a bathroom project that is almost done.

I'll post up as I make progress worth noting. I need to get some work done on my fj40, axle rebuild and toss some shims in the front axle to get my caster correct. I may do that before getting back into the garage project. We will see.

I have a lot to do coming up this year to finish... siding, electric, interior framing, plumbing, drywall, lift on the first floor, etc.

 

[diiulio]

Here are some quick photos of what I have started working on. I got all the windows in as you can see from the back side picture. Yes, snow was still on the ground.

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Here is the beginning of building the doors.

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Test fitting the first door.


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[diiulio]

KaSander,
I missed your question before about the wall on top of the rafters vs. side. Not quite sure why I did that. I thought about putting rafters down and the wall on top, then I thought it might be better insulated with the studs going all the way down so I can put insulation in them, but the wall on top of the rafters is probably stronger.

I was 50/50 and the way I framed the wall made my decision for me.

 

[tapered-pin]

KaSander,
I missed your question before about the wall on top of the rafters vs. side. Not quite sure why I did that. I thought about putting rafters down and the wall on top, then I thought it might be better insulated with the studs going all the way down so I can put insulation in them, but the wall on top of the rafters is probably stronger.

I was 50/50 and the way I framed the wall made my decision for me.

How is the load being transferred (without resting on top of the rafters)?

 

[diiulio]

The load is only dead load from the wall itself which is in tension at the top (underside of rafter) and shear at the bottom plate to the 12/12 rafter. All roof loading is transferred through rafter to wall, the wall is not a load bearing wall.

 

[cesarbee440]

They have some good ideas on HGTV sometimes! It's a lot better here on GJ with people giving ideas also and asking questions that get answered.

It's awesome that this build is mainly a one-man show and looks quality!

 

[kasander]

diiulio,

10-4. I think maybe I should strap my vertical studs on the dormer wall to the rafter for uplift resistance. I think your way may actually be more structurally sound than mine.

Are you going to try to utilize the space under the main roof pitch? I'm trying to decide what to do there. One of my corners is under the stairs, I am going to try to utilize 1 corner for an HVAC system, maybe a small closet/storage under the other 2.

 

[Pressingonward]

Cool build! Thanks for the detailed pics and descriptions - slowly but surely I'm picking up the lingo and methods used for construction from these threads. One day I hope to enclose my open bay pole barn and turn it into a real shop, and I really appreciate the time everyone on this site spends documenting their builds so I can learn from them.

Your carriage house looks great and I'm amazed at the progress you made in such short order. Keep up the great work!