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Gas powered air compressor

TTMotorsports

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Was going to run a 3 phase air compressor but now I'm sharing a shop and he's worried about me using too much electricity so I'm needing a new air compressor for my cnc plasma cutter. Looking to spend 1500 or less and get the best one possible. Not going to be moving like on a job site so what do you guys recommend.

Thanks everyone

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mark-NJ

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Were it mine to do, I'd stick with an electric compressor and put a 3-phase watt meter on the motor. You can use it to determine if there's any disproportionate usage & 'settle up' when the utility bill comes...
 

American Locomotive

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What's "150p"? Do you mean $1500?

In most plasma cutting applications, the plasma cutter will be using far more power than the air compressor. For example, a Hypertherm PowerMax 65 will use 10.5 KW of power at full-go (44A @ 240v), but only needs 6.7 cfm of air which can be provided by a 2HP 120v air compressor....

There is also no such thing as a free lunch. The plasma cutter will require a certain amount of air regardless if the compressor is single phase or three phase or gas powered. You'll be spending way more money on gasoline per amount of air, then you would just giving the shop owner some extra cash for electricity.

But like I said, unless you were planning on having a giant 60HP screw compressor just idling along, the plasma cutter will be using far more electricity than the compressor.
 

DeeKay

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I don't think gas is the way to go here; gasoline is way more expensive than electric and introduces more maintenance, fuel storage, etc.
You can run an electric motor flat out 24/7 for years and years with no maintenance at all. A gas motor? now that's a different story.
If you have the power available 3 phase is the way to go for sure.

Like Mark said, you could put a KwH meter on and settle up with the guy at the end of the month. But like American locomotive said, the Plasma table is going to eat more juice than the compressor ever will. So whos to say this guy isn't going to start complaining about that next?

Obviously I don't know your situation but this guy sounds a lot like some of my old room mates that would nickel and dime everthing to death; "well I was out of town for 3 days this week and I spent the night somewhere else last night, so you need to take 11.321456% off of my half of the power bill this month :eyecrazy:

ORRR you could do a rough estimate of your power usage using the nameplate data from all of your equipment and average run time per day, week or month. And then pay a flat percentage of your monthly power bill.
 
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TTMotorsports

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Ok makes sense. There is electrical available but I didn't want to run an additional 220v wiring for the compressor as well as for the plasma cutter and my Welder. I can do it if it makes sense just thinking for ease of getting up and going and not doing more electrical work a gas powered one would be easy.

Whats the most powerful highest cfm air compressor you guys know of that runs of 110v? I have lots of wire to run an additional dedicated 110v circuit if needed for sure.



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jeepinerdeep

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Ok makes sense. There is electrical available but I didn't want to run an additional 220v wiring for the compressor as well as for the plasma cutter and my Welder. I can do it if it makes sense just thinking for ease of getting up and going and not doing more electrical work a gas powered one would be easy.

Whats the most powerful highest cfm air compressor you guys know of that runs of 110v? I have lots of wire to run an additional dedicated 110v circuit if needed for sure.



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I CAN tell you a CNC table ate my 220v IR's lunch with a SS3 pump, so bigger than that.
 

American Locomotive

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Ok makes sense. There is electrical available but I didn't want to run an additional 220v wiring for the compressor as well as for the plasma cutter and my Welder. I can do it if it makes sense just thinking for ease of getting up and going and not doing more electrical work a gas powered one would be easy.

Whats the most powerful highest cfm air compressor you guys know of that runs of 110v? I have lots of wire to run an additional dedicated 110v circuit if needed for sure.



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The most power you're going to get is 2HP from 120v.

The biggest thing will be determining which plasma cutter your table will be using, and identifying its air requirements.
 
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TTMotorsports

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The most power you're going to get is 2HP from 120v.



The biggest thing will be determining which plasma cutter your table will be using, and identifying its air requirements.
I'm running 40 amp hypertherm and it says 6.0cfm but not cutting that much at a time so a reserve capacity aka big tank will do the job

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matt_i

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IC engine ~25% efficient

Electric motor ~ 98% efficient

No question on which one I would run.

A couple ways to divvy up electric useage. Setup a clamp meter on a test run and get the measured FLA of the air compressor then multiply by hour-meter useage to get your actual kW*hr useage and then multiply by utility cost for energy. Someone would have to work out the wiring of the hour-meter but its a fairly simple mini-motorized device that can run in parallel with the motor's wiring. And someone would have to do the record keeping and check the hour meter on a monthly basis (setup an alarm in your phone to remind you to go write down the value).

Or, run the shop for a month without using the compressor and then run it with the compressor and average the difference in bills.
 

GeoBruin

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Ok makes sense. There is electrical available but I didn't want to run an additional 220v wiring for the compressor as well as for the plasma cutter and my Welder. I can do it if it makes sense just thinking for ease of getting up and going and not doing more electrical work a gas powered one would be easy.

Whats the most powerful highest cfm air compressor you guys know of that runs of 110v? I have lots of wire to run an additional dedicated 110v circuit if needed for sure.



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The Quincy q12124vp, Belaire 5026vp, and Chicago Pneumatic rcp-224vp are all essentially the same compressor. They're true 2hp machines and can deliver just over 7 cfm at 90 psi. They all come with a 110 volt plug but draw almost 20 amps under load and probably more on startup so you might need a dedicated circuit and a 30 amp breaker.
 
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TTMotorsports

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IC engine ~25% efficient

Electric motor ~ 98% efficient

No question on which one I would run.

A couple ways to divvy up electric useage. Setup a clamp meter on a test run and get the measured FLA of the air compressor then multiply by hour-meter useage to get your actual kW*hr useage and then multiply by utility cost for energy. Someone would have to work out the wiring of the hour-meter but its a fairly simple mini-motorized device that can run in parallel with the motor's wiring. And someone would have to do the record keeping and check the hour meter on a monthly basis (setup an alarm in your phone to remind you to go write down the value).

Or, run the shop for a month without using the compressor and then run it with the compressor and average the difference in bills.
Going to see how much the electric bill is for the first month without compressor and than figure out how much more with and pay the extra to keep it simple. Thanks

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TTMotorsports

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Anyone have a link for any of these bigger compressors or a source for cheaper air tanks too? No tanks on Craigslist near me for sale

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GeoBruin

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If it's any help, I just bought the Quincy. They just "updated" to the model q12124vp from the previous model q12124vp. Mine arrived with a bent flywheel and I've been searching the globe for a replacement with no luck. It arrived with a spare parts book and a part number and still no one can help me.

While on the phone with a tech at the factory, he mentioned that the older model was assembled in the USA while the newer model is assembled overseas. That, he suspects, is part of the problem with finding a part.

To that end, if you go with the Quincy, I recommend finding the older version with the 6 in the model number.

Good luck!
 
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strutaeng

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I've got an older Emglo 17 gallon with a true 2HP motor. Nameplate amps on the motor is 19A. I've been able to run it on a 20A circuit without any problems. Don't know what it actually draws at cut off pressure?

it's rated CFM is 8.1, which is pretty good for me. And those pumps are very robust for being splash lubricated.

Emglo is now Jenny. Expensive, but very well made.
 

Showkey

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If you have 3ph power your likely paying a commercial rate for power in the building.

The difference in single phase and 3ph is not going to make a whole lot of difference in the long run for one compressor. Nit picking the 3ph actually might be slightly less expensive to run. 3ph used unit are often dirt cheap as most DIY and GJ guys do not have 3ph available in a residential area. 3ph compressors are usually 5/7.5/10 HP.
 

GeoBruin

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Was thinking the same thing unless you caused the damage than good luck.

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They're sending a new compressor. I went through a procedure to "field scrap" the damaged machine which amounts to removing all the stickers/tags, cutting the ASME cert plate off the tank and sending them pictures. So at this point, it's mine to do with as I please. If I can get it fixed, I'll have two fully functioning compressors.
 

GeoBruin

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No experience but it looks like the Rolair VT25BIG (except cheaper). I can find the duty cycle rating for the Makita but if it's 100% like the Rolair, it's a no brainer.
 
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TTMotorsports

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No experience but it looks like the Rolair VT25BIG (except cheaper). I can find the duty cycle rating for the Makita but if it's 100% like the Rolair, it's a no brainer.
100% duty cycle.

https://www.drillanddriver.com/rola...lso comes with a,work far from the compressor.

Makita MAC5200 3.0hp air compressor

Makita air compressors have some of the most powerful motors, and this one is especially popular for its 3.0hp motor and big bore pistons. It has a 100% duty cycle that allows you to work continuously, increasing productivity. This air compressor is also fitted with a high foldable handle as well as heavy-duty wheels for mobility. It also comes with a 50ft 3/8-Inch hose allowing you to work far from the compressor.


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u3b3rg33k

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I'm hearing hypertherm and "run the shop without a compressor" but not sure how you use a plasma cutter without the compressor. mine doesn't work that way.

also where's the refrigerated air dryer to protect the hypertherm? unless you hate consumables.

I have a 50A plasma (green 3 in 1, guess the brand!), and my crappy little 1HP California air is adequate for any cut I have ever found a need for at home, or work, including scrapping out old machinery.
 
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TTMotorsports

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Found a good 3 phase 7.5hp compressor and a local electrical supply store has a meter to put in line to tell the amount of electricity it uses to figure out how much it costs on the bill exactly.

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GeoBruin

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Found a good 3 phase 7.5hp compressor and a local electrical supply store has a meter to put in line to tell the amount of electricity it uses to figure out how much it costs on the bill exactly.

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Glad you figured it out. I wss going to suggest one of the smart energy monitors. We have an Emporia Vue. It's essentially a clamp meter you put around whatever you're trying to monitor and it logs the usage and broadcasts it to an app. You would need wifi where it is installed though.

The nice thing is you can export reports in excel from the app. We use it to meter our rental unit.
 
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TTMotorsports

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My energy monitor has the feed to circuit from breaker fed. Does anyone know of one that you can put in line with a plug in to check something by itself easier than hard wiring it in

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strutaeng

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100% duty cycle.

https://www.drillanddriver.com/rola...lso comes with a,work far from the compressor.

Makita MAC5200 3.0hp air compressor

Makita air compressors have some of the most powerful motors, and this one is especially popular for its 3.0hp motor and big bore pistons. It has a 100% duty cycle that allows you to work continuously, increasing productivity. This air compressor is also fitted with a high foldable handle as well as heavy-duty wheels for mobility. It also comes with a 50ft 3/8-Inch hose allowing you to work far from the compressor.


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3.0 HP from 120V?
 

u3b3rg33k

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My energy monitor has the feed to circuit from breaker fed. Does anyone know of one that you can put in line with a plug in to check something by itself easier than hard wiring it in

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not for 3 phase. mine is an AB and requires 120V power to run the meter, a 3 phase breaker for phase/voltage monitoring, and 3 CTs to measure power flow.

If I want to "know" what a 3ph motor pulls, I use my clamp meter, average the 3 legs amp draw, and do the maths. it's close enough. if the motor is on a VFD, I just flip the display to kW.
 

vanapplebomb

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100% duty cycle.

https://www.drillanddriver.com/rola...lso comes with a,work far from the compressor.

Makita MAC5200 3.0hp air compressor

Makita air compressors have some of the most powerful motors, and this one is especially popular for its 3.0hp motor and big bore pistons. It has a 100% duty cycle that allows you to work continuously, increasing productivity. This air compressor is also fitted with a high foldable handle as well as heavy-duty wheels for mobility. It also comes with a 50ft 3/8-Inch hose allowing you to work far from the compressor.


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I would put absolutely zero stock in this article. It is pretty clear that whoever wrote this doesn’t actually know anything about air compressors. I believe people call them Keyboard Warriors. Really good at writing, but don’t know anything about what they are writing about.
 

redmondjp

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I would put absolutely zero stock in this article. It is pretty clear that whoever wrote this doesn’t actually know anything about air compressors. I believe people call them Keyboard Warriors. Really good at writing, but don’t know anything about what they are writing about.

A bit OT but I ran into this exact same thing while installing new "soft-close" drawer guides in my kitchen this week - the instructions tell you to measure up 1 1/4" from the bottom to the top of the side rails, which is all you need to know, but then they tell you to use a level while installing the screws! The drawer is loose in your lap at this point. Wow, who knew that I would live long enough to see the day that reading the instructions actually was a bad thing to do?
 
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TTMotorsports

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A bit OT but I ran into this exact same thing while installing new "soft-close" drawer guides in my kitchen this week - the instructions tell you to measure up 1 1/4" from the bottom to the top of the side rails, which is all you need to know, but then they tell you to use a level while installing the screws! The drawer is loose in your lap at this point. Wow, who knew that I would live long enough to see the day that reading the instructions actually was a bad thing to do?
Yeah some instructions don't translate very good to English and don't make any sense

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