Gerstner Leatherette Restoration

[Ohio Andy]

Yes, a ridiculous hobby for sure. All those stamps should be applied to letters and posted.

I inherited so many. I've been purposely writing letters. Just trying to use up a bunch of the low value ones...

Some stamps are only available from the post office and rolls of a thousand or more. So who buys the whole roll to get a couple? My dad, my dad did that... Rolls of $0.04 stamps, $0.05 stamps....

 

[AEAdam]

Here the hardware after soaking it in the remover. I think I can sto here.

What’s the plan to stop rust, spray lacquer? Consider cold bluing? What are your options? I feel like I’ve been here before and never had a good answer.

 

[pocosso]

What’s the plan to stop rust, spray lacquer? Consider cold bluing? What are your options? I feel like I’ve been here before and never had a good answer.

My plan is to keep brushing with Brass wire dremel the use some wax to protect the metal. I like to patina and I do not want to cover it. Someone suggested me to spray it with transparent lacquer, I am still trying to understand what is the best solution but actually I think I will leave it natural.

 

[pocosso]

Guys,
I finally found the Leatherette I was looking for, not extremely cheap, but very similar to the Gerstner one and no crazy shipping fees to get it.

After may researches and thanks to your inputs, I found this one that match.

Here the link.

Can't wait to start glue it to the chest.

I also bought some Rabbit skin glue. Will see.

D.

 

[pocosso]

What’s the plan to stop rust, spray lacquer? Consider cold bluing? What are your options? I feel like I’ve been here before and never had a good answer.

I finally decided to polish the hardware with some scotch-rite tools, will keep you posted...

 

[pocosso]

Another Update,
just removed the original old Stain from the drawers, removed the metal bottoms, cleaned and sprayed with primer. Next step I will paint with Brown acrylic spray the metal and the Wood with Vintage Oak Stainer.

 

[pocosso]

Here the drawers withe the Metal Bottom installed.
Not yet definitive wit the spikes as I am thinking to sand the internal side. External has been cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol to remove residuals of paint remover.

 

[pocosso]

Finally Drawers are stained. I really like the vintage effect, what do you think?

 

[Beerhippie]

Lookin' sweet!

 

[pocosso]

Progressing with first part covered in Leatherette, Front Lid is done and I like it, not so easy like it appeared in the video but I like the result.

D.

 

[pocosso]

Progressing with first part covered in Leatherette, Front Lid is done and I like it, not so easy like it appeared in the video but I like the result.

D.

Does anyone have any idea on how to carve the lines on the leatherette?

 

[Beerhippie]

Leather creaser:

https://tandyleather.com/products/a...mYGZ-mvRG1CJYY6QUDny8WwDh8dqv0IBoChrEQAvD_BwE

 

[pocosso]

Leather creaser:

https://tandyleather.com/products/a...mYGZ-mvRG1CJYY6QUDny8WwDh8dqv0IBoChrEQAvD_BwE

Thank you!

 

[RTM]

I also have embossing wheels, two are smooth. Not sure if those would work also.

 

[Beerhippie]

I also have embossing wheels, two are smooth. Not sure if those would work also.

Probably--just hard to determine start/stop points.

 

[pocosso]

Probably--just hard to determine start/stop points.

This is another good point.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

My plan is to keep brushing with Brass wire dremel the use some wax to protect the metal. I like to patina and I do not want to cover it. Someone suggested me to spray it with transparent lacquer, I am still trying to understand what is the best solution but actually I think I will leave it natural.

I would nickel plate the hardware.

 

[pocosso]

I would nickel plate the hardware.

It was one of the option, but honestly i like the patina that remained on it after the treatment. Not sure yet but i think i will skip it.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

It was one of the option, but honestly i like the patina that remained on it after the treatment. Not sure yet but i think i will skip it.

Suit yourself, and they look great as is, but you have removed all the zinc, and uncoated they will rust.

Are you keeping or selling it?

 

[pocosso]

Suit yourself, and they look great as is, but you have removed all the zinc, and uncoated they will rust.

Are you keeping or selling it?

I am thinking to keep it, rust is my concern, what about if i paint with transparent? What do you think?

 

[gahrajmahal]

I am thinking to keep it, rust is my concern, what about if i paint with transparent? What do you think?

Lacquer is pretty soft and will easily scratch off of bare metal, especially if you choose to use spray can paint. A more durable clear would be automotive clears that use a hardener. Even powder coat would wear off if you are using your restored box and moving it into and out of your vehicle and taking it to a job site. I don’t mind a bit of surface rust either and I would have done as you did and just buff all the hardware with a wire wheel.

I’m really enjoying your thread and am learning a lot. I had not heard of the product called “Tolex”. I do not know if we could easily find the “leatherette” that you are using here in the states. It’s looking great!

 

[pocosso]

I bought Tolex, but to be honest it is too soft at the touch, nothing bad on it, just different than the original one. I found this one in UK it is not for fourniture but for book covering, more paperish and AXA Lt same feeling that the old original one.

 

[pocosso]

Some one mentioned to use some kind of wax to prtect the hardware from the rust, not sure what to use, any idea?

 

[DaveAndStuff]

I am thinking to keep it, rust is my concern, what about if i paint with transparent? What do you think?

A good clear coat would if untouched would be okay, but everywhere the hinged and clasps and whatnot rub, I think it will inevitably rub off. I know there are some hard-coat products that would likely work, but I don't think there are DIY and it would likely cost much more than nickel plate.

If you are only going to display it, laquear may be okay. If you're going to use it, probably no.

To be clear, you've poured a lot of heart in this thing, and I think it looks outstanding. I would absolutely go with the original hardware.

 

[Beerhippie]

I am thinking to keep it, rust is my concern, what about if i paint with transparent? What do you think?

I use this stuff:

Not cheap, but I'm less than halfway through one of those tubs after over ten years and have waxed a LOT of things with it.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I use this stuff:

Not cheap, but I'm less than halfway through one of those tubs after over ten years and have waxed a LOT of things with it.

I second that, it costs a lot but it lasts forever. I still haven't finished my first container of it and I've had it for a very long time. They like to use that in museums.

 

[Beerhippie]

They like to use that in museums.

According to the can, it was formulated with the British Museum for preserving everything from wood to leather to metal--ferrous or otherwise.

I've waxed over a hundred of my gasoline lanterns from the single can, plus lots of other things.

How much you buff it determines how shiny it is, from satin to high-gloss.

 

[pocosso]

I use this stuff:

Not cheap, but I'm less than halfway through one of those tubs after over ten years and have waxed a LOT of things with it.

Thank you! I just order it on Amazon.

 

[JradM]

Some one mentioned to use some kind of wax to prtect the hardware from the rust, not sure what to use, any idea?

I would nickel plate it. It won't preserve the patina per se, but you don't have to take the metal all the way to a high polish first to get the protection. It's cheap and not that hard to do.

Barring that you could heat up the metal and dip it in oil, rust blue it (there are professional products, but you can do it with some vinegar/water/salt solution to initiate the effect, then just boil the parts to turn the rust black and polish with steel wool), multiple thin coats of BLO, parkerize with POR-15 metal prep, heat and brush it with a pure brass wire wheel... what color you want?

 

[pocosso]

I would nickel plate it. It won't preserve the patina per se, but you don't have to take the metal all the way to a high polish first to get the protection. It's cheap and not that hard to do.

Barring that you could heat up the metal and dip it in oil, rust blue it (there are professional products, but you can do it with some vinegar/water/salt solution to initiate the effect, then just boil the parts to turn the rust black and polish with steel wool), multiple thin coats of BLO, parkerize with POR-15 metal prep, heat and brush it with a pure brass wire wheel... what color you want?

Is it a process that i can handle by myself? I will research a bit, i always thought it was a pro job.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Benvenuto, Pocosso!!!

I would nickel plate the hardware.

Thats what I was thinking - you don't have to polish it to a high gloss, and it will protect the metal better than any surface coating (paint, wax, etc.). Honestly, while you like the patina, you will be fighting flash rust issues forever - Nickel stops that dead.

I battle that rust here (central Umbria) so living on the water it can only be worse...

Is it a process that i can handle by myself? I will research a bit, i always thought it was a pro job.

You can set up an electro tank from a round 20L bucket or a squared rectangular plastic tank from Leroy or Brico... and a power supply or old style (non automatic) battery charger... You can get the electrodes and solutions on line (https://www.tifoo.de/en/nickel-plating-solution-1000-ml) and do it yourself... small scale, it's relatively easy. (And they ship from Germany to Italy)... There are SEVERAL youtube videos showing how to do it, I was surprised just how simple it is!

Anyway, good luck on your restoration, so far it looks great!!

 

[pocosso]

Benvenuto, Pocosso!!!



Thats what I was thinking - you don't have to polish it to a high gloss, and it will protect the metal better than any surface coating (paint, wax, etc.). Honestly, while you like the patina, you will be fighting flash rust issues forever - Nickel stops that dead.

I battle that rust here (central Umbria) so living on the water it can only be worse...



You can set up an electro tank from a round 20L bucket or a squared rectangular plastic tank from Leroy or Brico... and a power supply or old style (non automatic) battery charger... You can get the electrodes and solutions on line (https://www.tifoo.de/en/nickel-plating-solution-1000-ml) and do it yourself... small scale, it's relatively easy. (And they ship from Germany to Italy)... There are SEVERAL youtube videos showing how to do it, I was surprised just how simple it is!

Anyway, good luck on your restoration, so far it looks great!!

Thank you! I will definetely try, would it works on the little screws as well?

 

[Lassen Forge]

Thank you! I will definetely try, would it works on the little screws as well?

It does, tho I'd probably replace those with Inox (Stainless) instead of rigging up something for each and every little screw, nut, etc...

 

[JradM]

Is it a process that i can handle by myself? I will research a bit, i always thought it was a pro job.

Nickle plating? It's very simple. The hardest part is obtaining pure nickle - but it's available on Amazon in strips. You won't need much of it if these parts are all you're doing.

The supply list includes:

• Nickle
• 5% vinegar
• unionized salt
• wire
• a low-voltage power source (it can be a battery, but it's easier to maintain with a ~5v wall wart, or a proper multi-voltage power source) - keep in mind that lower voltage gives you more consistent plating, but it's slower.
• a container

Youtube would probably be easier to follow than my written instructions, but basically you just fill an appropriate-sized container for your part(s) with vinegar, add a small amount of salt to improve conductivity, then put two strips of nickel dangling in the vinegar on either side. Then you connect them to some source of power with your wires and wait (test wire with alligator leads makes this easier).

Slowly nicklel particles will move through the vinegar solution from the positive to the negatively charged nickel strip, dissolving some of it in your solution and turning it green. When you've got a light/bright green, your solution is ready (being exact about it is not required and it will continue to darken as you plate).

Then you replace the negative nickel strip with your part and dip it in the solution. It should only take a few seconds to start plating, though it may be a few minutes (depending on voltage) to get to your target plating thickness.

It helps if you bounce it up and down gently during the process because bubbles will form on the surface of your part and they interfere with the plating. A gentle swish or bounce knocks them off.

Nickel plating is great because it's so simple and cheap to do, but it gives you a finish that looks like warm chrome and is quite durable.