Ghost Shield 8510 vs HD40

[ducatithunder]

I know its been beat to death but after searching I am still torn between the two.

I have my 1300sqft garage enclosed at this point. Before I start to finish out the inside and move things in I would like to seal the floor. The concrete is 4500 psi that was power troweled to a polished/burnished finish. The contractor sealed the finished floor with a chemical cure top sealer for a curing aid.

At this point the slab was exposed to UV and weather for about 3 months until I was able to get it enclosed. The surface does not repel water anymore so I think the chem seal is gone.

So, now I and trying to decide on which route to go. The garage will be used for automotive projects and welding. Where the welding is going to take place I will most likely have another flooring covering the concrete.

I do like the look of the wet polished look of the HD40 but also like the oil resistance of the 8510. Both require a densifier, so no savings there. What prep will need to be done to remove this chem cure? Im concern if I have to etch the concrete it will distort the finish.look I have currently. Any other prep other then clean, wash, and dry. From what I have read the 8510 just seals and wont give the floor a wet look, correct? I am located in MD so the weather is not going to be back in the 50's for another 3-4 months if temperature of the slab is an issue.

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

HD40 is oil resistant. It is specified for all new Jiffy Lube stores exclusively.


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[Toomanytools?]

I used the HD40 no problems with oil wipes up even if sitting for a week. Can't help you on the prep with a sealer on ask Scotty.
Here is my process.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370806

 

[Garage Flooring]

I know its been beat to death but after searching I am still torn between the two.

I have my 1300sqft garage enclosed at this point. Before I start to finish out the inside and move things in I would like to seal the floor. The concrete is 4500 psi that was power troweled to a polished/burnished finish. The contractor sealed the finished floor with a chemical cure top sealer for a curing aid.

At this point the slab was exposed to UV and weather for about 3 months until I was able to get it enclosed. The surface does not repel water anymore so I think the chem seal is gone.

So, now I and trying to decide on which route to go. The garage will be used for automotive projects and welding. Where the welding is going to take place I will most likely have another flooring covering the concrete.

I do like the look of the wet polished look of the HD40 but also like the oil resistance of the 8510. Both require a densifier, so no savings there. What prep will need to be done to remove this chem cure? Im concern if I have to etch the concrete it will distort the finish.look I have currently. Any other prep other then clean, wash, and dry. From what I have read the 8510 just seals and wont give the floor a wet look, correct? I am located in MD so the weather is not going to be back in the 50's for another 3-4 months if temperature of the slab is an issue.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If you want the high polished gloss look AND you have a power troweled floor, understand that it requires maintenance, HD40 is going to give you the looks you want and that is the direction you should go. I can't recall anyone ever saying a bad thing about the product. Scotty is a great supporter of this site and I am sure he would treat you well.


8510 has me impressed. 8505 was the original. People loved it. You can get more actives into the concrete with 8510 with a single application than you could with two coats of 8505. Lots of posts out there about it. I don't recall anyone not being happy with it.

Another option that you could get from Scotty or I would be a clear polyurea. More work, but IMHO better looking, lower maintenance and very chemical resistant. It will require you etch or prime.

 

[ducatithunder]

HD40 is oil resistant. It is specified for all new Jiffy Lube stores exclusively.


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Scotty, So if I head down to my local Jiffy Lube I should be able to see the HD40 in person and how its held up in the real world?

Also is there a min temp for application? Any recommendations on prep for the chem cure sealer that the contractor put down for the curing process?

 

[ducatithunder]

My other concern is and correct me if Im wrong on this is if I do the HD40 or 8510 and later want to go another route I will have to grind the surface. How is the repair method of either coating if I need to later down the road?

 

[Garage Flooring]

My other concern is and correct me if Im wrong on this is if I do the HD40 or 8510 and later want to go another route I will have to grind the surface. How is the repair method of either coating if I need to later down the road?

[Speaking for 8510 ONLY]

You would absolutely want to grind down the surface after using 8510. We would suggest that after any densifier or sealer is used, an aggressive grind should be done. followed by an adhesion test. If I were seriously considering another coating in the near future I would be hesitant to put a sealer down.

There is no film with 8510 to repair. Any damage would be to the concrete itself. If say 10-12 years down the road you find water is not beading there is a relatively easy reapplication method that does not involve grinding.

 

[ducatithunder]

[Speaking for 8510 ONLY]

You would absolutely want to grind down the surface after using 8510. We would suggest that after any densifier or sealer is used, an aggressive grind should be done. followed by an adhesion test. If I were seriously considering another coating in the near future I would be hesitant to put a sealer down.

There is no film with 8510 to repair. Any damage would be to the concrete itself. If say 10-12 years down the road you find water is not beading there is a relatively easy reapplication method that does not involve grinding.

Thanks. IS there a min temp for application of the 8510.

Everything I have found, I keep coming back to the same conclusion on my part that both products are the similar. What really separates these two products? Both are oil resistant, need a densifier application prior, and are pretty permanent in application.

Only difference I have found is the 8510 appears to not have to be burnished after application, while the HD40 does.

 

[PurdueSD]

HD40 is oil resistant. It is specified for all new Jiffy Lube stores exclusively.


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This is blatantly misleading... you did the same thing to me. Then said after the fact oh ya oil and water will soak in.

 

[PurdueSD]

I know its been beat to death but after searching I am still torn between the two.

I have my 1300sqft garage enclosed at this point. Before I start to finish out the inside and move things in I would like to seal the floor. The concrete is 4500 psi that was power troweled to a polished/burnished finish. The contractor sealed the finished floor with a chemical cure top sealer for a curing aid.

At this point the slab was exposed to UV and weather for about 3 months until I was able to get it enclosed. The surface does not repel water anymore so I think the chem seal is gone.

So, now I and trying to decide on which route to go. The garage will be used for automotive projects and welding. Where the welding is going to take place I will most likely have another flooring covering the concrete.

I do like the look of the wet polished look of the HD40 but also like the oil resistance of the 8510. Both require a densifier, so no savings there. What prep will need to be done to remove this chem cure? Im concern if I have to etch the concrete it will distort the finish.look I have currently. Any other prep other then clean, wash, and dry. From what I have read the 8510 just seals and wont give the floor a wet look, correct? I am located in MD so the weather is not going to be back in the 50's for another 3-4 months if temperature of the slab is an issue.

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The oil resistance of HD37 followed by HD40 has been terrible for me. Oil drips wiped up immediately soak in and stain. If its oil resistance you want, id look into a different product type. A coating of some time will be required...

 

[ducatithunder]

The oil resistance of HD37 followed by HD40 has been terrible for me. Oil drips wiped up immediately soak in and stain. If its oil resistance you want, id look into a different product type. A coating of some time will be required...

Thanks for the info. Can you elaborate any more? Do you still have the HD40 or have you moved to another?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

That depends on when it was built and if the GC ordered from us like he is specified to.


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[LegacyIndustrial]

The oil resistance of HD37 followed by HD40 has been terrible for me. Oil drips wiped up immediately soak in and stain. If its oil resistance you want, id look into a different product type. A coating of some time will be required...

Has to be smooth concrete, has to be applied correctly.


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[LegacyIndustrial]

This is blatantly misleading... you did the same thing to me. Then said after the fact oh ya oil and water will soak in.

Water is not oil. This picture shows our product versus a product we are all familiar with. Again you have to have the right application and use the product correctly you probably have very porous concrete. If this is the case you need a coating.



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[Garage Flooring]

Thanks. IS there a min temp for application of the 8510.

Everything I have found, I keep coming back to the same conclusion on my part that both products are the similar. What really separates these two products? Both are oil resistant, need a densifier application prior, and are pretty permanent in application.

Only difference I have found is the 8510 appears to not have to be burnished after application, while the HD40 does.

They are truly completely different. 8510 is a penetrating sealer designed specifically seal out oil. BUT it has absolutely zero aesthetic value. Should be applied 50 & rising (inside temps)

8510 is comprised of high solids silane, siloxane and the addition of fluorocarbons that are specifically designed for automotive fluids. It is ASTM tested to do what it is advertised to do and has some of the best testing I have seen.

 

[ducatithunder]

They are truly completely different. 8510 is a penetrating sealer designed specifically seal out oil. BUT it has absolutely zero aesthetic value. Should be applied 50 & rising (inside temps)

8510 is comprised of high solids silane, siloxane and the addition of fluorocarbons that are specifically designed for automotive fluids. It is ASTM tested to do what it is advertised to do and has some of the best testing I have seen.

So if I wanted to have that wet sealed look what would I have to do on top of the 8510? Will having the chem cure applied to the finished concrete affect the adhesion? My concrete is very smooth with a couple shrinkage cracks due to no expansion joints. I will post pics when I can.

 

[Garage Flooring]

So if I wanted to have that wet sealed look what would I have to do on top of the 8510? Will having the chem cure applied to the finished concrete affect the adhesion? My concrete is very smooth with a couple shrinkage cracks due to no expansion joints. I will post pics when I can.

No.... 8510 will repel anything you put on top of it. If you want a wet sealed look, talk to Scotty about your specific application and HD40 or look at two coats of clear Polyurea.

Just to reiterate 8510 does absolutely nothing to the appearance of the concrete.

 

[ducatithunder]

Just to reiterate 8510 does absolutely nothing to the appearance of the concrete.

Understood. Thanks.