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Ghostsheild 4500/8510 DIY application imminent

robb1887

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Jun 9, 2014
Messages
107
I've been trying to find the most recommended success stories using Ghostshield products to coat my floor before final move in. I'm having to apply in two sections for my 28x40, using the cut relief as my divider (2/3 1/3 split) as I unfortunately have some stuff moved into the space already. I pressure washed yesterday to get the large paint/junk from the last two years off.

I'm looking to confirm what I've read here or there that for my smooth trowel finished floor:

Degreaser
Pressure wash
Dry
Single flood coat of 4500 in a 4:1 ratio
7 day cure time minimum
Double flood coat (wet on wet) of 8510 as mixed
24hr minimum cure

I have the following materials:
Solvent rated hand pump sprayer
Microfiber rollers for puddling if present
spike shoe adapters for the wet on wet application of 8510

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madison069

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Nov 5, 2010
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Location
Monroeville, PA
My concrete was new so I didn’t degrease, old concrete will most likely need it.

Give it a week to cure after 8510 and I used a garden sprayer to apply both 4500 and 8150. It was slow to dry after applying the second coat of 8510.

I’m happy with the results, easy to clean up if I get to it quickly and low dust. My bunker isn’t treated and I can tell how dusty it is compared to the treated concrete.
 
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robb1887

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Jun 9, 2014
Messages
107
My concrete was new so I didn’t degrease, old concrete will most likely need it.

Give it a week to cure after 8510 and I used a garden sprayer to apply both 4500 and 8150. It was slow to dry after applying the second coat of 8510.

I’m happy with the results, easy to clean up if I get to it quickly and low dust. My bunker isn’t treated and I can tell how dusty it is compared to the treated concrete.

I've done some car/mower maintenance and feel like I should degrease to be safe, I only get one shot.

Dusting is a huge concern currently still so I'm glad to hear that helped. I will be doing a lot of mecahnical car work and fabrication so I figure the sealer is the best application for me since epoxy's/coatings can burn from sparks/embers
 

Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
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2,867
Location
California
I've done some car/mower maintenance and feel like I should degrease to be safe, I only get one shot.

Dusting is a huge concern currently still so I'm glad to hear that helped. I will be doing a lot of mecahnical car work and fabrication so I figure the sealer is the best application for me since epoxy's/coatings can burn from sparks/embers
I would double-check the application methods for 8510. I believe only one flood coat should be applied past the saturation point at an approximate rate of 300 sf. per gallon.
 
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robb1887

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Jun 9, 2014
Messages
107
I would double-check the application methods for 8510. I believe only one flood coat should be applied past the saturation point at an approximate rate of 300 sf. per gallon.
This is directly from the website, but I'll double check the labeling when it arrives as well. I only have the 4500 in hand currently.

"Apply with a solvent-resistant roller, brush or low-pressure, non- atomizing sprayer. Apply to saturation letting the first coat penetrate for 5-10 minutes. If applying a second coat, reapply in the same saturating manner wet-on-wet (applying the second coat before the first coat dries). Less material will be needed for the second coat. Roll or broom out any puddles until the sealer penetrates the substrate. If it starts to rain, stop treatment and cover the impregnated areas."
 
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y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
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Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I really wish I had done this.I cant' figure out how to successfully move stuff around in the space over a week or so period of time. I certainly can't keep one of the cars outside for this time!.

Maybe I could do it halves? Any ideas?
 

madison069

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Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,163
Location
Monroeville, PA
You can check out my experience here starting at post 201 for getting my floor ready for sealing. I did wet on wet application of 8510.



Photos of the end results are in the thread also.
 
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robb1887

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Jun 9, 2014
Messages
107
I really wish I had done this.I cant' figure out how to successfully move stuff around in the space over a week or so period of time. I certainly can't keep one of the cars outside for this time!.

Maybe I could do it halves? Any ideas?

I really wish I would have done it way earlier in my shop build to prevent as much prep requirements.

I'm using a saw cut in my floor I will mask off to separate a 2/3 & 1/3 application with stacking all my stuff up in that 1/3 area for the majority application, then moving it back over to get the last 1/3. Definitely stinks to draw it our for 28 days to full cure time if no gaps for heavy stuff (lathes and mill for my shop).
 
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robb1887

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Messages
107
You can check out my experience here starting at post 201 for getting my floor ready for sealing. I did wet on wet application of 8510.



Photos of the end results are in the thread also.

You mentioned in your build thread only using 4.5 gallons in your 32x32 space? Based on a 300sqft application coverage reccomended and then "less needed" for the wet coat should be somehwere in the 5-6 range no?
 

madison069

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Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,163
Location
Monroeville, PA
You mentioned in your build thread only using 4.5 gallons in your 32x32 space? Based on a 300sqft application coverage reccomended and then "less needed" for the wet coat should be somehwere in the 5-6 range no?
You are correct, by the math it should have been 5-6 gallons for a proper 2 full coat of 8510. From talking to others who has applied 8510 they experienced a white chalky substance showing up in the heavy pooled area they had. So, to avoid that I did my best to keep it from pooling up and if I applied the full 5-6 gallons on the concrete it would have not dried clearly. From what I gather, some concrete will absorb that stuff up like a sponge but mine was fresh power trowelled concrete and so it didn't absorb as easily as other folks has shown.

So, if your concrete will absorb the solution easily, then I would do my best to get the full amount on it. But if it doesn't absorb easily, then I would lower the amount to prevent issues. Every concrete slab will be different and so far, mine has been easy to keep it clean. If I leave oil on the concrete, it does leave a very very light stain that eventually disappear over time, but I know from experience that an untreated floor would still have a very dark stain there. Water will bead up and leave no trace when I wipe it up. I kept walking on water in the garage and kept wondering where it was because I couldn't see it due to the concrete didn't change color! I'm happy with it!
 
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