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Glued PVC water line leak - help

70pcuda

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Jan 15, 2006
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I put a check valve in the line feeding my outside water spigot. It's 1" PVC and a PVC check valve. I glued all the joints of my feeder line with the same glue, but the one at the check valce is dripping, and seems to be getting worse. Is there any way to fix this leak without trashing everything and starting over?

Thanks
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Probably not, but you could try flooding the area with glue (water pressure removed from the pipe and keep it dry. I do not like the blue, wet and dry glue, it does not seem to melt the plastic, its more of a glue than a solvent. I use the plain old clear pvc solvent weld glue.

Charles
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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One thing that has always helped me with PVC joints is to use the purple PVC primer before the glue. Never had a joint fail that way. Like Charles, I prefer the clear solvent glue.
 
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70pcuda

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i used the purple primer and the clear solvant. I guess I'll cut it apart.

Thanks
 

Torque1st

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Cut it out, then use primer and clear glue. Then put the parts together and twist 1/4 turn. The little line down the side of the pipe and the hash marks on the fittings are alignment guides.
 

Costner

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I agree with the suggestion to apply primer and then glue, then assemble the fittings and then give it a quarter turn. The quarter turn helps distribute the solvent around the fitting (effectively reducing the impact of gravity and variances in how much solvent was applied) and results in a much better bond.

If the fittings are dirty I'll also go the extra step of applying the cleaner to all of the joints before the primer. I've never had a joint leak when using this method, but there is always a chance one of the fittings has a manufacturing defect and no amount of solvent will fix it.
 

FANTASY FACTORY

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go to the local hobby shop, get Zap A Gap ca thick, its cappilarry and will pull right in and cures under water, i use it all the time on my RC race boats.
 

tdkkart

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When gluing PVC, make sure you put primer and glue on both the inside of the fitting AND the outside of the pipe. If you put it on only one or the other you have too much chance of pushing the glue out of the joint when assembling.

Could be worse, at work we had two 2-1/2" PVC water lines running over the ceiling in one of our rooms. They were assembled with the wrong type of glue, and over time started coming apart. Let me tell you, a 2-1/2" line dumps alot of water in a hurry!!
 
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70pcuda

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Everything is 1" white sch 40 PVC. I used the purple primer and glue on both the chk valve and the 1" pipe. The leak is where I glued in a check valve. So I cannot really cut it out, without buying a new check valve. Wish I had a picture.
 

lametec

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I second the "super glue" option. Try to get as much water out of the leak as possible, then dump some super glue in there. Let it sit a bit and turn the water back on. The glue will cure instantly when exposed to water.
 

rasit

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I second the question, why would you need a check valve? The fix for the drip is cut it out and re-do as others have suggested.
 

79firebird

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A check valve is code now adays atleast where i am. Most places now but one in to be on the safe side. i would just cut and re do it. had to do it befor
 

rasit

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A check valve is code now adays atleast where i am. Most places now but one in to be on the safe side. i would just cut and re do it.

Although not a requirement where I'm at I get it now. It's to prevent outside contaminination from entering the water source. Like if someone really had it out for you, they could pump poison into your house water supply through your hose bib. Most municipalities have the same concern with their fire hydrants, which are typically unprotected. :spit:
 

mhm993

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If this is a low pressure line, bet the grey plumbers epoxy would work--at least for long while. I find that stuff sticks surprisingly well, even in wet places, as long as the leak is not under moderately high pressure.
Still, it's pvc. Always best to fix it properly by replacing the joint.
 
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benjamming

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I guess you never paid attention in plumbing class.:lol_hitti

Or, you could try & educate me rather than a smart aleck response. This site is meant for learning still, right?

Are you talking about the extrusion line down the pipe where the mfg, date code, material spec, etc. is printed?

Hash marks? Are you talking about the mold release spots?
 

King Me IRL

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Whats wrong with blue glue? I have been working for a plumber for 3 years and from my experience, the blue glue cures hotter than heavy bodied clear (or gray) glue. We use the blue glue on PVC water lines and sprinkler systems, anywhere that has high pressure really.
The primer and 1/4 turn recomendation was spot on.
 

rylon

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Beaverton Oregon
Another alternative to make the repair or to reuse your check valve is to use a pipe reamer to remove the old piece of PVC that is glued into the inside of the fitting by using a pipe reamer (Like This)then you can use what ever adapters to reconnect all of the pipes needed to make the final connection to the outside of your house. Saw it used on a home improvement show and it was really slick, worked well.

Rylon
 

metal1313

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that twist is important, its possible for air to actually leave a chanel in the glue as you slide the parts together. prime, glue, push twist and hold.

now the way to fix it right....is to get rid of pvc water lines. i like copper and then pex, i hate pvc, even for waste lines.
 

Torque1st

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Or, you could try & educate me rather than a smart aleck response. This site is meant for learning still, right?

Are you talking about the extrusion line down the pipe where the mfg, date code, material spec, etc. is printed?

Hash marks? Are you talking about the mold release spots?

Or you could ask instead of making smart *** remarks.

Look at a pipe fitting and a smart *** such as yourself should be able to figure it out.
 

redsky49

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Now, now. Play nice boys.

To correct a statement above, a check valve is not the correct device when connecting to potable water. You are required to provide an approved back-flow preventer which may consist of anything, depending on the application, from an air break to a reduced pressure back flow assembly. This applies to any potentially hazardous connection.

These same rules also dictate that the discharge of a faucet be above the flood rim of a sink.

Best to check with local jurisdiction when making any questionable connection to the water system.

As always, offered only as opinion
 

King Me IRL

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Now, now. Play nice boys.

To correct a statement above, a check valve is not the correct device when connecting to potable water. You are required to provide an approved back-flow preventer which may consist of anything, depending on the application, from an air break to a reduced pressure back flow assembly. This applies to any potentially hazardous connection.

These same rules also dictate that the discharge of a faucet be above the flood rim of a sink.

Best to check with local jurisdiction when making any questionable connection to the water system.

As always, offered only as opinion

Well said +1
 

benjamming

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So, I'll ask my questions again.

Are you talking about the extrusion line down the pipe where the mfg, date code, material spec, etc. is printed?

Hash marks? Are you talking about the mold release spots?
 

redsky49

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To shed a little light, PVC, a thermoplastic Polyvinyl Chloride product is typically solvent welded. PVC is generally used for water distribution and waste as a less expensive alternative to copper and cast iron. Strength (or maximum working pressure) decreases with temperature however, so temperatures should be limited to 150 degrees max. My personal view is that it should be limited to waste applications, and even then only to under slab use where the noise transmission and flammability issues will not be a problem. If plastic must be used for water distribution or fire sprinkler systems, CPVC is usually a better choice. There are several other thermoplastics such as PB, ABS, PP PVDF, etc. which are sometimes seen in special commercial or industrial applications. The molded lines that you see on the fittings are from the manufacturing procedure and have no special qualities, though they can help you gauge how much you have twisted the fitting during installation.

Installation of fittings is as follows:

First, wipe off all burrs and make certain that you have a smooth, plumb pipe cut. Clean the mating surfaces of both the female and male parts with an appropriate primer. This is usually the purple stuff, though it may be available in different colors. This removes surface contaminants and "preps" the mating surfaces. Primer is a solvent so treat it accordingly.

Then apply the adhesive solvent, sometimes referred to (incorrectly) as cement. Here the procedure is to apply a coat of solvent to the male portion (the pipe), a thin coat to the inner surface of the fitting, and a second coat to the pipe. Immediately insert the pipe into the fitting and rotate the connection 45-90 degrees to spread the solvent that was pushed aside when you inserted the pipe. Hold the welded assembly in place for 30 seconds and you are done.

Allow at least an hour for the solvent to fuse the mating surfaces together and cure fully before placing in service. You are joining the pipe on the molecular level, and if done correctly, the surfaces you have welded will flow into each other, making essentially a monolithic assembly.

Now I suspect that there may be GJ members that have a different approach and I encourage them to jump in and share with us their experience. My experience is on the design end, not installation, so I have a different perspective form those that do this on a daily basis.

As always, offered only as opinion
 

King Me IRL

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So, I'll ask my questions again.

Are you talking about the extrusion line down the pipe where the mfg, date code, material spec, etc. is printed?

Hash marks? Are you talking about the mold release spots?

I believe he is talking about the marks on the hub of most fittings
 

kvom

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Feb 1, 2008
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*******, GA
On my garage build I needed a backflow preventer on the outside spigot, but was able to use one that screws onto the end of the spigot. I was told that it is required by code to prevent contamination getting into the potable supply. The example they cited was using a hose/sprayer to spray insecticide on plants.

I did have to install a PVC check valve on the output of my sink pump as it pumps the water vertically to connect to the main drainage pipe. I used the clear solvent and purple primer in the manner indicated in several posts here.

While cutting the joint out is not a bad idea, I don't see any problems in trying some of the patch solutions offered first. You should know pretty quickly if they work. OTOH, if the valve is going to be covered up inside the walls, I would rather be safe.
 

mikeceli

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May 24, 2006
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I can't speak for the rest of the USA, but here in cali, PVC cement, glue whatever you call it, was better, decades ago. It would melt the pipe/fitting and set up in seconds, fuseing the joint.

Now we have LOW VOC and it does not melt the pipe, basically justs glues it.

Anyone here old enough to know what I'm talking about? does your state sell NON LOW VOC adhesive?
 
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70pcuda

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OHIO
Just an update for everyone. I cut out the leaky joint and redid it all. No more leaks!

Thanks
 
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