Good ball joint / tie rod end separator?

[tym]

I'm planning to do the outer tie rod ends on my 2013 Mustang soon (93k miles and I think they're getting a little clunky) and the Ford service manual has warnings about not hammering on them as doing so may damage the steering knuckle. I get that they don't want Zog to beat on it directly with a BFH, but should I worry about using a pickle fork on it?

Or would I be better off with one of those C-clamp style tools?

I haven't done tie rod ends before so appreciate the advice. My last pickle fork use was to get an ancient idler arm off of a '69 Camaro and a clamp-style tool would not have been able to defeat nearly half a century of rust.

 

[bob15]

Have access to an air hammer? This kit with an air hammer will make life easy: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/pickle-fork-kit

 

[tym]

Have access to an air hammer? This kit with an air hammer will make life easy: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/pickle-fork-kit

I'm full-on shade tree, so just hand tools and leverage.

 

[plinker]

I prefer not to use a pickle fork, but it does get used. I have the same Lisle kit linked above.

I had bought a set from Napa years ago, these are identical to it. Never had an issue with the kit. These pretty much come from the same Taiwan factory, pick the best brand for cost vs support.

Gearwrench,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TDCCHW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

OTC,
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?keywords=tie+rod+puller+gearwrench&qid=1578708671&sr=8-1-fkmr3

Capri,
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-21002-Automotive-Service/dp/B00HX2FKYO/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=tie+rod+puller+astro&qid=1578709068&sr=8-20

8milelake,
https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Tool-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B017AWRJZY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?keywords=tie+rod+puller+gearwrench&qid=1578708671&sr=8-2-fkmr3https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Tool-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B017AWRJZY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?keywords=tie+rod+puller+gearwrench&qid=1578708671&sr=8-2-fkmr3

 

[ChrisLS8]

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Been using this one for about 6 years

 

[tym]

Thanks. I do have access to a "medium duty" gear puller. Could that work here or am I just going to snap it in half?

 

[ChrisLS8]

Tie rod ends are usually pretty easy to pop out. Half the time I just give a few taps with my drilling hammer and they pop right out

 

[visionguru]

This style works great for ALL ball joints on a Honda.

Pickle fork can destroy the boots, which destroys the ball joints.
C-clamp and puller style can have fitment issue, you need to have several sizes to choose from.

 

[paulsomlo]

This style works great for ALL ball joints on a Honda.

Pickle fork can destroy the boots, which destroys the ball joints.
C-clamp and puller style can have fitment issue, you need to have several sizes to choose from.

And you can get that one as a loaner from Autozone.

 

[Super Mech]

If you are replacing the tie rods a pickle fork is fine. The boots will get ripped but you are replacing them so it doesn’t matter. I have the HF one that ChrisLS8 uses for years. The thing surprising strong. I opened up the fork side of it about an 1/8 on an inch to fit some larger stuff. Every time I crank the daylights out of it and think is going to break it doesn’t and just pops the stud out. Sometimes some mild tapping helps it along. Always put the nut on the stud flush with the end of it before using.

 

[RKA]

Just a quick note on using the style visionguru posted...they were designed to handle some force, but don’t crank down too hard on the nut or it will break the tool. You’ll see numerous reviews where people complain about this (they aren’t using it right). Instead, tighten the nut with a ratchet, if the joint doesn’t open up, hit it with a hammer a few times, then tighten the nut a little more, hammer again and eventually the joint will open up and you will have a reusable tool. This is not likely to be an issue with a little tie rod, but a control arm will certainly require this.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X1LESRQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just picked this up, pricey but very nice. Comes with 3 different forks, a forth oversize one is also available. Much easier to use than the standard style.

 

[tym]

Thanks, all. I found on the 'bay an SK pitman arm and tie rod puller that measures like it should fit. Failing that, I'll bop the top of the old stud with a drilling hammer after backing off the nut

 

[Wamsutta]

Tie rod end remover for 2013 Mustang -

https://www.freedomracing.com/tie-rod-end-remover-211-001-tool-3290-d.html

The Chilton manual never mentions a ball joint separator. It just says separate the lower arm from the steering spindle when removing the front lower arm.

 

[MattT]

Just a quick note on using the style visionguru posted...they were designed to handle some force, but don’t crank down too hard on the nut or it will break the tool. You’ll see numerous reviews where people complain about this (they aren’t using it right). Instead, tighten the nut with a ratchet, if the joint doesn’t open up, hit it with a hammer a few times, then tighten the nut a little more, hammer again and eventually the joint will open up and you will have a reusable tool.

I guess that style might all look the same but ain't made the same. Mine is a few years old dealer tool and it doesn't need any babying. Just crank on the sucker until the joint blows apart.

I just picked this up, pricey but very nice. Comes with 3 different forks, a forth oversize one is also available. Much easier to use than the standard style.

That does look nice. The standard ones definitely aren't one size fits all, on fork width or height. Kit price really ain't that bad but another $100 for the extra fork is high.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

I like this unit from Harbor Freight. No different from others, but for the price, I have no issue with modifying by grinding a larger opening in the jaws. I ground one so i can separate Subaru ball joints without touching the rubber boot on the joint. Using a pickle fork you are almost always going to damage the rubber of a joint.


https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

 

[tym]

Tie rod end remover for 2013 Mustang -

https://www.freedomracing.com/tie-rod-end-remover-211-001-tool-3290-d.html

The Chilton manual never mentions a ball joint separator. It just says separate the lower arm from the steering spindle when removing the front lower arm.

I saw that tool in the service manual but wasn't able to locate one for sale.

I did wind up ordering this, which is about the same price and seems "real": https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SK-PITMAN-ARM-TIE-ROD-PULLER-92506-MADE-IS-USA/362272522138

 

[rsanter]

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Been using this one for about 6 years

These work great, I would try this first

 

[johninct]

If you are replacing the tie rods a pickle fork is fine. The boots will get ripped but you are replacing them so it doesn’t matter. I have the HF one that ChrisLS8 uses for years. The thing surprising strong. I opened up the fork side of it about an 1/8 on an inch to fit some larger stuff. Every time I crank the daylights out of it and think is going to break it doesn’t and just pops the stud out. Sometimes some mild tapping helps it along. Always put the nut on the stud flush with the end of it before using.

Is it then possible to replace just the ripped boot?

 

[Wamsutta]

I saw that tool in the service manual but wasn't able to locate one for sale.

All I did is punch the part number into Google.

Google has come a long ways with part numbers. They used to not recognize part numbers at all.

 

[seanc_mt]

Former professional mechanic here... I have never understood the fascination with using a pickle fork... It ruins the boots. A few wacks with a hammer on the outer part has removed EVERY tie rod I've ever come across probably 10k of them.

 

[bczygan]

No pickle fork on oints that get reused.

Whack the side of the knuckle with a BFH is the go to method.

Puller when that doesn't work.

Bill

 

[MattT]

Whack the side of the knuckle with a BFH is the go to method.

Hold BFH against the back of the knuckle. Whack with MFH

 

[Steve_P]

Am I the only one that uses an air hammer and pointed chisel? Put the nut on backwards, hit the shank a few seconds in the machining center and it breaks loose. And yes I have pullers and pickle forks but this works in seconds with no damage

 

[setfocus]

A few wacks with a hammer on the outer part has removed EVERY tie rod I've ever come across probably 10k of them.

Yep, never had it not work, except maybe once on a bmw. Hit the arm of the knuckle where the tie rod connects, using a hammer with some weight. I'll use a pickle fork on my air hammer for lower ball joints of some designs, if it's being replaced

 

[theoldwizard1]

Whack the side of the knuckle with a BFH is the go to method.

Only exception is a forged aluminum knuckle.

BFH = 3 or 4 lb !

 

[plinker]

Am I the only one that uses an air hammer and pointed chisel? Put the nut on backwards, hit the shank a few seconds in the machining center and it breaks loose. And yes I have pullers and pickle forks but this works in seconds with no damage

I've used a straight punch with an air hammer before, mainly with pinch bolt style ball joints. Works well if the situation presents itself.

 

[kctyphoon]

Loosen nut, smash with big hammer... itll prob drop right out.

 

[paulsomlo]

Anyone have any experience with this one? https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=37985

I replaced a wheel bearing on a Civic this past weekend, used the loaner tool from Autozone, but it wouldn't open up far enough, even with the pivot pin at the widest setting - it kept slipping off because I couldn't get the two arms close enough to parallel. The one linked above claims to have four different positions.

 

[visionguru]

....

I replaced a wheel bearing on a Civic this past weekend, used the loaner tool from Autozone, but it wouldn't open up far enough, even with the pivot pin at the widest setting - it kept slipping off because I couldn't get the two arms close enough to parallel. The one linked above claims to have four different positions.

You don't need to get the two arms parallel. Did you hammer the tool all the way in?
It kept slipping off because it's not fully seated. I've used that tool on a Honda Accord without any issues. Civic is supposed to be no larger than Accord.

• The tool can be inserted from both front and rear side. On an Accord, when the rotor is removed, the front fits better, otherwise, rear fits better. So, if it can't go in well, try the other side.
  
• Hammer it in.
  
• Leave the nut on to protect the thread. The ball joint stud only needs to be out of the nut by a few mm.

 

[paulsomlo]

You don't need to get the two arms parallel. Did you hammer the tool all the way in?
It kept slipping off because it's not fully seated. I've used that tool on a Honda Accord without any issues. Civic is supposed to be no larger than Accord.

• The tool can be inserted from both front and rear side. On an Accord, when the rotor is removed, the front fits better, otherwise, rear fits better. So, if it can't go in well, try the other side.
  
• Hammer it in.
  
• Leave the nut on to protect the thread. The ball joint stud only needs to be out of the nut by a few mm.

Nope, didn't hammer it in - I was afraid of ripping the boot. I pushed it in about as far as it would go, maybe it wasn't fully seated, don't know. Tried it on both sides.

 

[visionguru]

Nope, didn't hammer it in - I was afraid of ripping the boot. I pushed it in about as far as it would go, maybe it wasn't fully seated, don't know. Tried it on both sides.

You have to hammer it in to properly seat the tool.
Look at the picture, this tool is unlikely to damage the boot, which is tougher than you expect. There is no room for the boot to be caught in between metal with high force to cause a rip, unlike pickle fork.

The ball joint was replaced @12 years old, and was out of lower control arm 5 times. Still perfect.

The following South Main Auto video can show you the usefulness of the tool. Start from 10 minute mark.

 

[jgme]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X1LESRQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just picked this up, pricey but very nice. Comes with 3 different forks, a forth oversize one is also available. Much easier to use than the standard style.

Thanks. Mueller Kueps 609 033 ball joint separator kit. This worked great for my F-150. Used on the upper ball joint and the tie rod. I preferred not using the large hammer on the aluminum steering knuckle.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

For occasional home use, I just get whatever Orielly's or AutoZone loan out free. I don't see a point in buying a set for occasional use.

 

[vwpieces]

Am I the only one that uses an air hammer and pointed chisel? Put the nut on backwards, hit the shank a few seconds in the machining center and it breaks loose. And yes I have pullers and pickle forks but this works in seconds with no damage

I have also used the air hammer with a flat hammer shaped bit on the side of the spindle.
Most of the time a simple ballpein hammer all that is needed. The method of swing and strike are the important part. Need to ring it like a bell for the vibration to carry and release the taper fit. A dead thug of a blow will do nothing. So the 4lb Thor hammer is not the one to use... 16oz ballpein is my 1st choice to make it ring... It's all in the swing and how you strike it.

And I do have the 2 sizes of the pullers like the HFT one pictured above. Both are of German flavor. But I rarely ever need to resort to using them.

 

[jonesg]

Former professional mechanic here... I have never understood the fascination with using a pickle fork... It ruins the boots. A few wacks with a hammer on the outer part has removed EVERY tie rod I've ever come across probably 10k of them.

theres even a small flat anvil molded into the knuckle specifically for hitting with a hammer.
Hold tie rod end with one hand, putting it under slight pressure to come out, then hit the knuckle.

 

[DGersic]

This style works great for ALL ball joints on a Honda.

Pickle fork can destroy the boots, which destroys the ball joints.
C-clamp and puller style can have fitment issue, you need to have several sizes to choose from.

I have the HF version of this. Works great.

 

[jsaw]

Former professional mechanic here... I have never understood the fascination with using a pickle fork... It ruins the boots. A few wacks with a hammer on the outer part has removed EVERY tie rod I've ever come across probably 10k of them.

My experience also