Good crimp terminals

[Hohn]

Quality wiring is a buy once cry once kind of thing, but times every time you use it.

If you think good wiring is costly, you should try the cheap stuff.

 

[CGarage]

This is my "go to" place for terminals !

I prefer using uninsulated terminals and marine/dual-wall heat shrink tubing, so I purchase TE Solistrand terminals.

Excellent info from an experienced and wise forum member!!!

 

[zmotorsports]

I've purchased from Waytek and Del City for a good while now but a few years ago I discovered Sherco Auto & Marine and have been buying from them lately. I also don't use many insulated connectors and now mostly use non-insulated and heat shrink.

I bought an assortment of non-insulated crimp connectors from them a few years ago and just add or replenish as I go.

 

[scooby074]

T&B and 3M are what Ive always used. Grote if I cant get either of those.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I discovered Sherco Auto & Marine and have been buying from them lately. I also don't use many insulated connectors and now mostly use non-insulated and heat shrink.

I bought an assortment of non-insulated crimp connectors from them a few years ago and just add or replenish as I go.

I have to remember this place ! Prices are better than TE !!

 

[Dave455]

I keep a large assortment on hand. Thomas and Betts makes nice ones. However I’ve mostly switched over to these Solder Loaded heat shrink terminals for anything important. These are the same as the NSPA ones linked above.

Regardless of what terminals you use, having the proper dies and a ratcheting crimper makes the biggest difference.


I have a knipex multi crimp that I purchased years ago that does damn near everything and always produces a perfect crimp.

Really nice setup - superbly organised! I’m guessing you do a bit of wiring…!

Remarkably similar selection to mine, but I’m now feeling my organisation is inadequate.

I opted to store my crimp connectors in plastic bottles - like this. Partly as they are totally damp proof, partly as it’s easier to grab what I need when working away from base, and partly as I had a load surplus.

The bottles are not ideal as they hide behind one another on shelves, so I’m considering replacing with something like Milwaukee Packout organiser boxes.

Strange thing - in my workshop I have some incredibly rare tools. I have some old enamel signs equally rare, and I have a wall full of aircraft parts that would give the appropriate enthusiast a panic attack - but the only things that ever get commented on are the spools of wire racked on the ceiling, and my plastic bottles of nuts, bolts, screws and crimp terminals!

Back on topic - with crimp teminals I find that it’s more important where I buy them, than what I buy (not to denigrate any of the excellent brands discussed so far). If I buy from a good electrical wholesaler, the quality is always acceptable, irrespective of brand.

 

[Dave455]

I tend to use weather pack connectors when a bullet style connector is warranted as they are waterproof.


The bins are from Schaller Corp I like them as it’s easy to pull a bin and take it to the project.





All of my small parts are stored in my Lista cabinets. Those drawers are all full!



I keep small bar stock etc in old safe deposit boxes.


My tools are in a variety of Vidmar and craftsman boxes plus some Systainers.


The foam is a combination of Kaizen foam from FastCap and custom cut from ToolBed.de. I have more pics of the setup on my garage thread

This just gets better and better…!

 

[bbrins]

The bottles are not ideal so I’m considering replacing with something like Milwaukee Packout organiser boxes.

I went the Packout route for the shop, it can get expensive pretty quick depending on the depth of your assortment of connectors. I'm not sure I like it.

I actually kind of like the setup you have with the bottles, you can just grab the few you need and toss them in a tool bag without having to worry about spilling them. With the Packout, you are either just taking the individual little bins with you, which you then have to worry about spilling, or you're taking the whole case with you, or worse, you wind up just grabbing a few of these and a few of those, jamming them in your pocket and then either having to sort the leftovers back into their bins, or you wind up forgetting they are there and they wind up at home in the washing machine.

One of my solutions is to keep a small assortment of various electrical connectors in an old peanut butter jar in my tool bag in my work truck.

 

[Dave455]

I went the Packout route for the shop, it can get expensive pretty quick depending on the depth of your assortment of connectors. I'm not sure I like it.

I actually kind of like the setup you have with the bottles, you can just grab the few you need and toss them in a tool bag without having to worry about spilling them. With the Packout, you are either just taking the individual little bins with you, which you then have to worry about spilling, or you're taking the whole case with you, or worse, you wind up just grabbing a few of these and a few of those, jamming them in your pocket and then either having to sort the leftovers back into their bins, or you wind up forgetting they are there and they wind up at home in the washing machine.

One of my solutions is to keep a small assortment of various electrical connectors in an old peanut butter jar in my tool bag in my work truck.

Hmm, thanks for the input.

This is exactly the dilemma I have.

I didn’t like the packout boxes when they first appeared, I thought they were over priced. But the prices have come down, and I’ve come to realise they are quite well thought out.

I also have the option of these “Sorta” cases. They’re probably more durable, less costly, and the inserts are cheaper too.

I’ve got a few terminals, probably 8 or 10 styles repeated in 4 sizes, plus a few heavy gauge ones, ideal connectors, gel connectors etc etc.

Yes, the bottles work reasonably well to “grab and go”. I usually know what I’m going to need, so I can just cut a couple of lengths of the appropriate wire, and the necessary bottle of terminals.

Storing them is tricky though. I’ve got a big old metal cupboard, with narrow shelves round three sides, but as soon as you have more than one row you can’t see what’s at the back.

I love Grants setup - you can open the drawer and see everything. I might have to transition to something like that, and just grab a handful of what’s needed when I’m out of the shop.

 

[xtela]

I use the Wirefy heat shrink connector assortments with their ratcheting crimping tool. They have adhesive lining. For engine bay use I add their heat shrink tubing 3-1 ratio adhesive lined marine grade over their connectors.

Wirefy

Wirefy Story Every idea starts with a problem. Ours was simple: quality heat shrink connectors offered by automotive and marine stores are too expensive. Moreover, typical connector sets have insufficient variety to complete most wiring projects. We started Wirefy to create an alternative. By...

www.amazon.com

 

[Jack_K]

AMP PIDG is what I have started using for insulated terminals.

 

[nadogail]

As a Marine Electrician I have installed countless crimp connections, T&B was the shipyard's choice. As an Industrial Electronics Technician, and Machine Builder I have installed thousands more; again T&B was the preference.

 

[PCustoms]

That is totally fair. If you're going to do it yourself, ensure that you slather everything in diaelectric grease. That is more important than brand of terminal as far as I'm concerned.

Dialectric grease is actually an insulator, and slathering crimp terminals in it likely violates industry standards (I'd have to check, I've never actually seen anyone try/suggest it before).

 

[dscheidt]

Dialectric grease is actually an insulator, and slathering crimp terminals in it likely violates industry standards (I'd have to check, I've never actually seen anyone try/suggest it before).

I put dielectric grease inside connectors where they plug together, but not when crimping them on. Dielectric grease is an insulator, but where there connector terminals mate, they should be touching, which will displace the grease there. The excess grease forms a barrier against corrosion and water, and keeps connections reliable for longer. Doesn't take much, and you have to be sure there's somewhere for the excess to go, but it works.

 

[AdAstra]

For terminal assortment boxes I like these Durham plastic ones. The right mix of robustness, size efficiency, and cost for me. They also make a steel drawer rack that takes these containers.

Durham Mfg Compartment Box with 18 compartments, Plastic, 1-3/4" H x 10-13/16 in W SP18-CLEAR | Zoro

Order Durham Mfg Compartment Box with 18 compartments, Plastic, 1-3/4" H x 10-13/16 in W, SP18-CLEAR at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Hmm, thanks for the input.

This is exactly the dilemma I have.

I didn’t like the packout boxes when they first appeared, I thought they were over priced. But the prices have come down, and I’ve come to realise they are quite well thought out.

I also have the option of these “Sorta” cases. They’re probably more durable, less costly, and the inserts are cheaper too.

I’ve got a few terminals, probably 8 or 10 styles repeated in 4 sizes, plus a few heavy gauge ones, ideal connectors, gel connectors etc etc.

Yes, the bottles work reasonably well to “grab and go”. I usually know what I’m going to need, so I can just cut a couple of lengths of the appropriate wire, and the necessary bottle of terminals.

Storing them is tricky though. I’ve got a big old metal cupboard, with narrow shelves round three sides, but as soon as you have more than one row you can’t see what’s at the back.

I love Grants setup - you can open the drawer and see everything. I might have to transition to something like that, and just grab a handful of what’s needed when I’m out of the shop.

I’ve been using the Festool versions for all of my wood screw assortments. For things like wood screws where I am often using multiple types and or sizes on a project they work well. I find with wire terminals I tend to only use one or two types per project so I like the Lista setup with the bins better for those.

 

[jonesg]

Those sold by harbor freight are good enough. Buying more expensive ones is same as ******* money away

yeh but junk is no bargain at any price, HF is a bit of a mixed bag.

anything made for marine enviroments will be better.

 

[CGarage]

As a Marine Electrician I have installed countless crimp connections, T&B was the shipyard's choice. As an Industrial Electronics Technician, and Machine Builder I have installed thousands more; again T&B was the preference.

What other brands do you find yourself using frequently, not specifically for crimp terminals but for marine work in general?

 

[chappys4life]

I went the Packout route for the shop, it can get expensive pretty quick depending on the depth of your assortment of connectors. I'm not sure I like it.

I actually kind of like the setup you have with the bottles, you can just grab the few you need and toss them in a tool bag without having to worry about spilling them. With the Packout, you are either just taking the individual little bins with you, which you then have to worry about spilling, or you're taking the whole case with you, or worse, you wind up just grabbing a few of these and a few of those, jamming them in your pocket and then either having to sort the leftovers back into their bins, or you wind up forgetting they are there and they wind up at home in the washing machine.

One of my solutions is to keep a small assortment of various electrical connectors in an old peanut butter jar in my tool bag in my work truck.

I am in the same boat. I have a pack out setup and it’s ok but for the price I go back and forth. Also hate having to buy all the dividers for the 3 drawer setup. I use a lot of the low profile packouts stacked on top of a few 3 drawers on a dolly.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I always buy AMP crimp lugs. I also bought the proper crimp tool. This way I always get the crimp perfect.
If you get the right crimp tool, the crimp jaws will interchange. I did buy another matching crimp tool and it is dedicated to spark leads. Again, every crimp is perfect.

 

[Rabid Badger]

This kit has worked well for me:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGRDVB1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[toplessHO]

T&B
3M
AMP
Panduit

All are good brands

 

[boom_bap]

I put dielectric grease inside connectors where they plug together, but not when crimping them on. Dielectric grease is an insulator, but where there connector terminals mate, they should be touching, which will displace the grease there. The excess grease forms a barrier against corrosion and water, and keeps connections reliable for longer. Doesn't take much, and you have to be sure there's somewhere for the excess to go, but it works.

Exactly, just for corrosion protection.

 

[isr2kba]

I liked reading all of the commentary so far and I agree with darn near all of it.

Here’s my two cents:

My experience is mostly in marine/trailers/outdoor applications(out of the sunlight!!!!).

When I see a failed **** splice/ring term/etc, it is always because of corrosion and hardly ever caused by using the wrong crimping tool. For that reason I use the heat shrink style of connectors whenever possible. They simply don’t suffer from corrosion almost ever. Use the gluey connectors and you can do the crimp with 2 rocks and it will probably be fine.

As to which brand, I like the name brands way better because the metal seems thicker, gaps are smaller, tolerances are better — they feel like they crimp more solidly. That said, I will choose the HF gluey connector over the NASA certified titanium alloy bare terminal under shrink wrap and tape every single time.

99% of my crimps are done with a tool like the TB plier type. Higher amperage (DC) with a hydraulic hex crimper or preferably just the dies in an arbor press.

 

[Dave455]

I’ve been using the Festool versions for all of my wood screw assortments. For things like wood screws where I am often using multiple types and or sizes on a project they work well. I find with wire terminals I tend to only use one or two types per project so I like the Lista setup with the bins better for those.

Yes, I find I need bigger compartments for woodscrews.

I’m fortunate to have a steel cabinet that’s just right for storing woodscrews by length and gauge. But I’ve even outgrown that, so I have big tubs of screws stored loose.

I recently saw some stacks of wooden drawers for sale (ex de Havilland Aircraft Company) that looked fantastic. Unfortunately the cabinets were too big and the seller wanted too much - but that’s not to say I won’t pinch the idea!

 

[CGarage]

That is cool! Always liked me a Vampire!!!

 

[Dave455]

That is cool! Always liked me a Vampire!!!

I suspect those cabinets pre date the vampire, but I can recall very similar style drawers (in the same colour) in other similar establishments.

These drawers are marked for screws up to 14 gauge at least.

Vampires are lovely - I have had two relatively short flights in a two seat Vampire and the experience was superb - probably bordering on unique!

 

[CGarage]

Very unique, I’d say!!!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Yes, I find I need bigger compartments for woodscrews.

I’m fortunate to have a steel cabinet that’s just right for storing woodscrews by length and gauge. But I’ve even outgrown that, so I have big tubs of screws stored loose.

I recently saw some stacks of wooden drawers for sale (ex de Havilland Aircraft Company) that looked fantastic. Unfortunately the cabinets were too big and the seller wanted too much - but that’s not to say I won’t pinch the idea!

I really like those. I’d love them if I had ample space. That’s the reason I went with the Listas is they are the most efficient use of storage space I’ve found.

 

[Dave455]

I really like those. I’d love them if I had ample space. That’s the reason I went with the Listas is they are the most efficient use of storage space I’ve found.

Yes, those Lista’s are superb. As you say, they’re a superb use of space, and the build quality seems excellent.

I would, in a way, love a similar setup, but apart from a couple of Snap On top chests, I’ve always made do with surplus industrial, or even office, storage.

I’ve got some ex government filing cabinets with drawers about 10” square that are great for vehicle parts, but the smaller consumables are always problematic to store. The Lista cabinets look expensive, but you could probably spend the same on Milwaukee Packouts and not get comparable storage.

Yes, I’d love the de Havilland drawers too, partly for what they are, and partly as my family have a lot of connections to the original de Havilland company (and even bought two of their aircraft). Unfortunately, I just don’t have the space, and they were a bit pricey.

If anyone is interested in the de Havilland cabinets, ping me a PM and I’ll pass on the details.

In reality, if you have a modicum of woodworking skill and some basic machinery, constructing a similar set, to whatever size you want. would be relatively straightforward.

 

[AmericanMechanic]

I keep a large assortment on hand.

How did you print the red labels for the Schaller bin label holders?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

How did you print the red labels for the Schaller bin label holders?

Same Bradey MP21 label maker that I use for heat shrink labels for wire terminals

 

[CGarage]

Grant: You have quite the setup!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Grant: You have quite the setup!

It’s been a slow process of knowing what I want then being patient for the right deal to come up used and not being afraid of doing some work rebuilding things. I’m essentially just a home hobbyist ( I have to maintain my equipment for work and it’s cheaper to do it myself) so trying to put together a quality shop on a limited budget, yet gave it be efficient to work in as my time is also very limited these days.

 

[CGarage]

Well done Grant!!!! Beautiful!!!!!

 

[MarineScott]

i just cant make myself use a insulated terminal these days,

What type of crimping pliers do you use and what does the crimp look like? I will agree with you on this selection

 

[MarineScott]

Love it! Looks professionally done on the right.

 

[ctandc72]

For just about anything permanent, that doesn't need to unplug, I've been using the solder loaded, marine heat shrink connectors for years. Get a good heat gun. I tend to add some heavier duty heat shrink on the outside of the joint if the connection might get wet / subject to weather etc.

I buy 'em on Amazon. They've held up for 5+ years on a UTV that I rebuilt with a friend. That thing gets driven through creeks, mud, stays outside most of the time etc. Tons of lights added, winch, gauges - all wired with the same connectors - no failures. Started using them years ago working on a buddy's dirt track car - the wiring lasted longer than the car did.

If I'm doing ring terminals, battery terminals, anything larger in wire size that's carrying power or ground, I just buy the solder pellets and the terminals online and use marine heat shrink on the outside. Never had one of those fail yet.

 

[pooterguy]

This guy sells Molex USA terminals and connectors directly to DIYers and also via feeBay. Very nice guy with excellent customer service and low prices. I've purchased several of his assortments and refills.

Chris Cooley
dba Casey Electric Supply
[email protected]

An automatic wire stripper and ratcheting crimper are must haves, even for occasional use, imho. rdoty's info and tips in his old car wiring restoration thread are good reads on the subject.

 

[Outahere]

AMP PIDG is what I have started using for insulated terminals.

I have used AMP PIDG terminals with reliable results. I also like the Molex Avikrimp terminals.

https://www.content.molex.com/dxdam/literature/987650-9731.pdf