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Good, local wire crimpers

mjoekingz28

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Jun 20, 2011
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717
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Mississippi
Hey. I want to get a set of crimpers for connecting mostly speaker wire together. Like on butts and ring terminals and other stuff. I dont know if it should work with solid wire, probably not though.

I just want to be able to put the stripped wire in the crimp, apply the crimpers squeeze as hard as I can with one hand and have not doubt the wire wont fall out. Nor do I want a wimpy connection.





I just got a set of Klein strippers to replace my old Ideals I gave away. I also gave away a set of crimpers which were the oldest tool I remember purchasing (15yrs old). So I need to replace them.


I guess the cutters on the end should resist damage and stay sharp enough to cut speaker wire cleanly, but I am focused on a good crimp.


Thanks for any help
 
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rlitman

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I'm very partial to my Kleins. Specifically these:
31HW1NRVTYL.jpg


I have not seen any ones that also strip wires that can create enough force to adequately crimp even insulated terminals.
 
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mjoekingz28

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Thanks rlitman. I saw those when I picked up my Klein strippers. I guess it is between those and the Channellocks I have been searching for, and just found.....the model 909.
 
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mjoekingz28

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Can you explain in detail the difference between the Klein 1005 and 1006. I dont undertand non-insulated and insulated.
 

FigureItOut

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Bentonville AR
I like my Kleins also, but if you're stuck between the Kleins and the Channellock, go with Channellock if you'll be doing more insulated connectors, and Klein if you'll do more non-insulated connectors.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
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mjoekingz28

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Oh wait. Is insulated the yellow plastic piece tht goes over, say, the metal ring terminal? And if it were bare, say no plastic piece, then it would be non insulated???
 

FigureItOut

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Can you explain in detail the difference between the Klein 1005 and 1006. I dont undertand non-insulated and insulated.
Insulated are the more common type and what you're probably using. They'll have a usually nylon sleeve over the barrel, colored to indicate what range of wire gauge they're designed for.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 

rlitman

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Can you explain in detail the difference between the Klein 1005 and 1006. I dont undertand non-insulated and insulated.

Sure.

Insulated terminals are crimped with a pair of arched surfaces that do not damage the insulation (sometimes vinyl, but some are heat shrinkable in better stuff).

Insulated are the ones around the outside, non-insulated are the all metal ones in the middle:
Insulated_Terminal___Connector.jpg


Non-insulated terminals are crimped with a depressor on one side (which should be aimed opposite the seam on an open seamed terminal, aimed onto the seam on a brazed seam terminal, and aimed anywhere on a 2-piece seamless terminal). The depressor makes a dimple for a better crimp, but would likely pierce insulation.

The 1006 has two sizes of non-insulated jaws (and no way to crimp insulated terminals). The outer is sized for 14-22 gauge, and the inner for 10-12 gauge terminals.

The 1005 (the one I posted the picture of above) has the non-insulated jaw on the outer position, and the insulated jaw on the inner position. The inner jaw is sized for all red/yellow/blue insulated terminals (10-22 gauge capacity). The outer jaw is sized for 10-22 gauge capacity as well, however I find it is marginal on 10 gauge, and I would expect it to be not so great on 20-22 gauge as well.

The Klein is the best crimper I've seen LOCALLY (far better than the Channellock which is the next best, and the Klein is well worth the slight extra cost), but T&B makes a slightly superior crimper if you want to order something (and spend a bit more).

The Thomas & Betts WT111M is the equivalent to the Klein 1006, and the Thomas & Betts WT112M is the equivalent to the Klein 1005. T&B is nice to use two colored handles, so you can more easily remember the orientation when crimping with the dimple.

215115-ProductImageURL.jpg
 
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mjoekingz28

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Thanks for the education everyone. The 1005s it shall be.


Thanks for bringing up the point of having the depressor on the side opposite of the seam while crimping. I dont remember if I forgot that tip or not. Is that alzheimer's?
 

rlitman

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Thanks for the education everyone. The 1005s it shall be.

FYI, if you like something bulkier than a dipped handle, they also offer a premium handle in that model. The J1005. It's only a couple of bucks more than the 1005. I can't say that I've ever owned anything with the Klein Journeyman handles though. Just dipped stuff...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000936OTY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's cheaper at Home Depot BTW than Amazon.
 

rlitman

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...I have not seen any ones that also strip wires that can create enough force to adequately crimp even insulated terminals.

In retrospect, I need to qualify that statement. I have not seen any decent non-ratcheting crimpers stamped from sheet metal. SnapOn (and now Mac and possibly others) offers a forged combination stripper/crimper tool that might be acceptable, but i haven't had my hands on one, so I cannot say for sure. Though I have my doubts, as the handles seem too short.
 

Tejaas

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TX Hill Country
If you value quality, and would humor ordering online as 'local' - I'd highly recommend treating yourself to the absolute best of the best.

Tyco/Raychem environmental splices, and DMC GMT232 crimpers.... These are a ratcheting crimper and would fulfill your desire for one-handed operation, while still offering a superior in-line connection with near-zero effort.

For terminal studs, terminal caps, etc... DMC HX-series crimpers and die sets are what you may want to look at.

67234d7e3068e403e427835d7da7fd4a.jpg
eaa76ae50f06535b3f177063cd614299.jpg
1478268f7c91d8a9dc9976a45c0e1a09.jpg

If you ever decide to go this route, be warned that it will cause you to think everything else looks like this 'Autozone electrician' job...

955fe1ded65abd2e961a0799ab3b3188.jpg

... And may possibly induce rage and/or panic attacks, haha!

I'm a perfectionist with this kind of stuff... All my stock/utility trailers, boat trailer and boat add-ons, aftermarket lights and stereo head units on my vehicles, etc are all done aviation grade and are often lace taped/bundled and routed with Adel clamps.

I often use cannon plugs for QD connections as well.

Anyways, just my 2¢.



~Tejaas~
 
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Tejaas

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TX Hill Country
As far as strippers, i'd really suggest a standalone/designated stripper... I too have yet to see a combo tool worth a damn.

I personally hate the typical automatic strippers, and much prefer the self-adjusting/clamping/pressure twist style strippers with replaceable inserts... Perfect shielding strip every time.

Ideal manufactured them for us military aviation guys - we had a 3 piece set that could cover from 26 gauge all they way up to bus wire/Coax/Triax variants etc.


~Tejaas~
 
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Brownsfan

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Cleveland Ohio
Coming from a guy who owns a ton of Crimpers. And uses them daily. My absolute favorite are the snap on 29cf. Best cutter of any other and the absolute most comfortable handles. That's important to someone like me who uses them daily multiple times a day.
 

rlitman

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Messages
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Location
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Coming from a guy who owns a ton of Crimpers. And uses them daily. My absolute favorite are the snap on 29cf. Best cutter of any other and the absolute most comfortable handles. That's important to someone like me who uses them daily multiple times a day.

Those look real nice. I can't say I've ever seen a pair in person though.
I do own a bunch of SnapOn pliers and can vouch for two things.
1) SnapOn makes some REAL nice pliers
2) Their Talon grip is awesome!
 
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IUEC Medic

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Mar 29, 2014
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East Bay Area
Sure.

Insulated terminals are crimped with a pair of arched surfaces that do not damage the insulation (sometimes vinyl, but some are heat shrinkable in better stuff).

Insulated are the ones around the outside, non-insulated are the all metal ones in the middle:
Insulated_Terminal___Connector.jpg


Non-insulated terminals are crimped with a depressor on one side (which should be aimed opposite the seam on an open seamed terminal, aimed onto the seam on a brazed seam terminal, and aimed anywhere on a 2-piece seamless terminal). The depressor makes a dimple for a better crimp, but would likely pierce insulation.

The 1006 has two sizes of non-insulated jaws (and no way to crimp insulated terminals). The outer is sized for 14-22 gauge, and the inner for 10-12 gauge terminals.

The 1005 (the one I posted the picture of above) has the non-insulated jaw on the outer position, and the insulated jaw on the inner position. The inner jaw is sized for all red/yellow/blue insulated terminals (10-22 gauge capacity). The outer jaw is sized for 10-22 gauge capacity as well, however I find it is marginal on 10 gauge, and I would expect it to be not so great on 20-22 gauge as well.

The Klein is the best crimper I've seen LOCALLY (far better than the Channellock which is the next best, and the Klein is well worth the slight extra cost), but T&B makes a slightly superior crimper if you want to order something (and spend a bit more).

The Thomas & Betts WT111M is the equivalent to the Klein 1006, and the Thomas & Betts WT112M is the equivalent to the Klein 1005. T&B is nice to use two colored handles, so you can more easily remember the orientation when crimping with the dimple.

215115-ProductImageURL.jpg


My T&B's are my go-to crimper.

Solid product, my dad still uses the pair he bought decades ago.
 

BRTMechanic

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Joined
Dec 21, 2009
Messages
46
Location
Las Vegas, NV.
If you value quality, and would humor ordering online as 'local' - I'd highly recommend treating yourself to the absolute best of the best.

Tyco/Raychem environmental splices, and DMC GMT232 crimpers.... These are a ratcheting crimper and would fulfill your desire for one-handed operation, while still offering a superior in-line connection with near-zero effort.

For terminal studs, terminal caps, etc... DMC HX-series crimpers and die sets are what you may want to look at.

67234d7e3068e403e427835d7da7fd4a.jpg
eaa76ae50f06535b3f177063cd614299.jpg
1478268f7c91d8a9dc9976a45c0e1a09.jpg

If you ever decide to go this route, be warned that it will cause you to think everything else looks like this 'Autozone electrician' job...

955fe1ded65abd2e961a0799ab3b3188.jpg

... And may possibly induce rage and/or panic attacks, haha!

I'm a perfectionist with this kind of stuff... All my stock/utility trailers, boat trailer and boat add-ons, aftermarket lights and stereo head units on my vehicles, etc are all done aviation grade and are often lace taped/bundled and routed with Adel clamps.

I often use cannon plugs for QD connections as well.

Anyways, just my 2¢.



~Tejaas~
Scotch Locs are the worst thing ever for a electronic application no matter what it is.

All of those side crimpers can also be used as wire strippers also. Makes it easy to strip and crimp on the fly.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

ihateminimumwage

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Jan 26, 2012
Messages
3,960
I've been mostly using my Klein 1005 Crimper and 11055 stripper/cutter for years now, but recently bought a Snap-on PWCS7CF Stripper/crimper/cutter that works insanely well for the size. I keep expecting the crimps to be loose with the smaller size of the pliers, but have yet to have one that I can pull out. They'd honestly kick *** for smaller gauge like speaker wire.
https://store.snapon.com/Strippers-Cutters-Crimpers-Wire-Stripper-Crimper-Cutter-7--P648778.aspx

They're also offered Taiwan made through OTC, Carlyle and MAC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K7VK5EI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Feb 22, 2016
Messages
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Location
Freedom, CA
I've had good luck with the non insulated terminals from Radio Shack with a little shrink wrap. My transmission harness is made with almost 20 of them, and has been flawless a couple years .
 

Sine Swept

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Feb 2, 2014
Messages
440
I've got 909's, GB's a few pairs of ratchet crimpers and the Snap On PWCS7CF. For multiple terminals the Snap On are the most comfortable.
 

n8n

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Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,607
Location
Curtis Bay, MD
Insulated are the more common type and what you're probably using. They'll have a usually nylon sleeve over the barrel, colored to indicate what range of wire gauge they're designed for.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

And I always rip those off, slide some heat shrink on, and treat it as uninsulated. Don't understand why it's so hard to find uninsulated, and they look so much more professional.
 

Luciferi

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Mar 24, 2013
Messages
219
I have used Klein for years since they are cheap and I am mobile so things disappear frequently. I am getting older and Klein is hard on the hands. I got the Channelock 909 and it is way better than the Kleins. Channelock has way more leverage and is so much easier on the hands. I have both in my tool back and when I grab the Klein out and start using it, I stop and go back for the channelock.

I also recently got an Otc right angle that seems to work well. I am going to get a straight Otc to try out.
 

Brian_WK

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Jun 30, 2015
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Location
NE South Dakota
I have a Greenlee PA1176 that I use for speaker and small connectors.

I have been looking at the Greenlee K210 anyone have anything good or bad to say about them?

Anyone have a good source online where to buy good un-insulated terminals? Bullet, Barrel, ring, male female terminals. Prefer to buy 20 or so at a time.

Brian
 
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pozidriv

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Oct 22, 2014
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343
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Belgium
And I always rip those off, slide some heat shrink on, and treat it as uninsulated. Don't understand why it's so hard to find uninsulated, and they look so much more professional.
Exactly! Especially the open barrel type connectors, I only find those online?!? The crappy insulated ones on the other hand are freaking everywhere :willy_nil

I'm surprised, normally these threads quickly go: "ratcheting crimper or die", now everyone seems to advise the plier type
 

n8n

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Messages
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Curtis Bay, MD
Exactly! Especially the open barrel type connectors, I only find those online?!? The crappy insulated ones on the other hand are freaking everywhere :willy_nil

I'm surprised, normally these threads quickly go: "ratcheting crimper or die", now everyone seems to advise the plier type

You can sometimes find the open ones in little 5-packs at your FLAPS... I really like those as they provide a better strain relief than heat shrink.

I haven't seen my crimp tool for them ones in a few years though. Really need to get better organized.
 

66HertzClone

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Long Valley, NJ
I was just going to ask about this model if anyone uses it and how it works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have been looking for something better recently and was thinking about ratcheting. Most of the stuff I do are cheap solderless insulated connectors.

I have a ratcheting crimp but I'm not thrilled with it, I find it annoying, the terminal shifts and I need to reposition but I'm one click in and then have to toggle the release to reposition. I have switched to using non- insulated terminals when ever possible and covering the exposed end with shrink tubing.
 

Brownsfan

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And by local do you mean locally available and not online? If that's the case then the Klein 1005 at Home Depot or the Ideal at Lowe's. Either one will Make a quality crimp and last forever.
 

Cope

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Houston, TX
FYI, if you like something bulkier than a dipped handle, they also offer a premium handle in that model. The J1005. It's only a couple of bucks more than the 1005. I can't say that I've ever owned anything with the Klein Journeyman handles though. Just dipped stuff...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000936OTY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It's cheaper at Home Depot BTW than Amazon.

I have both styles, and prefer the dipped style insulation.
 
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