So I was buying a new grease cartridge for the grease gun tonight and got thinking about grease, I've never paid much attention to it and all I know is the stuff I use is usually green, that's all I know, what kind of grease does everyone use? What do you use it on and why do you like it?
grease
- Thread starter rob0781
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bobcatdan
Well-known member
This was just done week or so ago. It was pretty even spilt between grease is grease and people actually recommanding a brand. Personally, I like the high pressure grease from mistic. It's cheap and didn't wash out on my off road truck.
ryan t
Well-known member
I use Lucas "Red 'N Tacky" #2 on most everything.
Addrock
Well-known member
I thought that #1 was for close to the grease zirk #2 is thinner and for remote longer distance. I'd like to know if I was wrong all of this time.
Jeeper
Well-known member
Armstrong1720
Well-known member
We use mobil when we can find it. But not mystic. My neighbor was a prime rose salesman. He took mystic and pr and heated them up with a torch and the mystic melted super fast but the prime rose wouldnt under heat so we used prime rose alot on peanut combines
You've got it backwards. NLGI grade 1 is thinner than NLGI grade 2.
Grease viscosity grading runs from NLGI 000 (thinnest) to NLGI 6 (thickest), with the most common being grades 0, 1, 2, 3.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Disagree; and so does the Navy. which is why they hired Mobil to formulate a better grease that stands up to higher pressures in Fighter plane landing gear, and won't washout in salt spray/water as easily.
Mobile 1 grease is I believe the same stuff and DOES make a difference.
I had a U joint in my Zuk that would not cross 10K miles. I took the (latest) new one apart cleaned the "Grease" out of the bearings and repacked with M1. that U joint is still in there some 40 K miles later.
I use it everywhere and have not had any washout failures since switching. (Crossing creeks WILL wash grease out of U joints and suspension parts)
I wish M1 had been around a few decades ago when I had a 69 Chevy PU that also would not keep U joints well at all...
Lastly, "Grease" is not "Just grease" There are std duty, and high pressure greases. Then there is marine (Blue) grease that is supposed to resist water better than ordinary grease, and then there is the Mobil synth, which is even better.
Paul Bee
Active member
Grease is 90% oil and 10% thickener. Most automotive greases are Lithium based. there are at least 10 different thickeners. It is best to use the same grease each time because most other types are not compatible.
Bikes&Bowties
Well-known member
John Deere has about a dozen different greases. Being a tech that's what I use. Some applications call for a specific grease like corn head grease but your general stuff a lithium or HD lithium grease is what I grab.
Bikes&Bowties
Well-known member
Also when it comes to a lot of applications grease I'd just grease as long as you keep it greased well. Where other application grease will cause major problems such as failed seals and then bearing failure and possibly housing or shaft failure. So all because of improper maintainence procedure you now have a multi thousand dollar repair bill. Both of those are common problems.
Addrock
Well-known member
Thanks!
64Trvlr
Well-known member
Mystic JT-6 red for me. 
honcho
Well-known member
Oh boy, all grease is greasy but all grease is not the same. You've got your basic lithium based ngli greases and food compatible grease and marine and ultra high pressure, synthetic, non-synthetic, teflon and so forth.
If memory serves me rightt, a few years back ford had a different specification than gm and they weren't compatible. Using the wrong type often resulted in earlier failure of the greased ball or u joint.
Other than situations where the wrong grease might cause process contamination (food, chemicals, textiles, etc....) I'd say any grease is better than no grease.
Somewhere in my library I have a textbook on formulating greases for different purposes. It's about 400 pages.
If memory serves me rightt, a few years back ford had a different specification than gm and they weren't compatible. Using the wrong type often resulted in earlier failure of the greased ball or u joint.
Other than situations where the wrong grease might cause process contamination (food, chemicals, textiles, etc....) I'd say any grease is better than no grease.
Somewhere in my library I have a textbook on formulating greases for different purposes. It's about 400 pages.
jwx
Well-known member
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that for the most part, grease IS grease. You will however run into applications where grease matters, like the above flight line sort of thing, and you'll need to use something specific. For most people, just get a good quality grease and let this dead horse lay.
Read deeper into the specifications of the grease bring considered. The type, ISO viscosity of the oil used as well as the thickener used are defined.
The thickeners are what cause the compatibility issues. Reactions between different thickeners can cause the oil to drop out, or the greases to solidify. Read the link in the post from several weeks ago.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility
Specs for various greases, defines base oil, thickeners & additives:
http://s03.static-shell.com/content...ochures/shell-gadus-productfamilybrochure.pdf
The thickeners are what cause the compatibility issues. Reactions between different thickeners can cause the oil to drop out, or the greases to solidify. Read the link in the post from several weeks ago.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility
Specs for various greases, defines base oil, thickeners & additives:
http://s03.static-shell.com/content...ochures/shell-gadus-productfamilybrochure.pdf
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Armstrong1720
Well-known member
But cheap junk melts down or out after heat You need quality grease like quality oil MOBIL !!