Green Bay electrical notes for detached garage

[andyvh1959]

I just got the attached document from the Green Bay electrical inspector, after he reviewed my garage build last Friday. For me, I need to install a 2nd ground rod, no big deal for that, plus it matches NEC. All outlets must be GFIC, which I assume the 1st outlet in a run feeding other downline outlets meets that. Any outlet alone on a circuit from other GFIC must itself be a GFIC. NM cable must be stapled within 12" of an outlet box. On my build I have the outlet boxes recessed into wall, with the NM cable routed through holes drilled in the 2x6 wall studs. I positioned the holes for the wires about 6" above the boxes. But the NM cable from one box spans 16" to the next stud, and the NM cable goes through holes in the next three studs until getting to the next box 48" away. So at most I can staple the NM cable 6" above the box before it goes through the next three studs. I think that meets the intent of the 12" staple.

 

[spudley]

Looks like you're in good hands. Just follow those guidelines and you're set.

 

[Shiftless]

Here is one requirement that might cause confusion.

➢ WALL SWITCHED LIGHTING OUTLET MUST BE INSTALLED ON THE EXTERIOR SIDE OF OUTDOOR ENTRANCES TO THE GARAGE.

I believe the intent is to provide permanent switched lighting near the door. But the word “outlet” might be confused by some as requiring a receptacle.

 

[grounded-b]

I just got the attached document from the Green Bay electrical inspector,........ NM cable must be stapled within 12" of an outlet box. On my build I have the outlet boxes recessed into wall, with the NM cable routed through holes drilled in the 2x6 wall studs. I positioned the holes for the wires about 6" above the boxes. But the NM cable from one box spans 16" to the next stud, and the NM cable goes through holes in the next three studs until getting to the next box 48" away. So at most I can staple the NM cable 6" above the box before it goes through the next three studs. I think that meets the intent of the 12" staple.

Yes, stapling it cable at 6", means that you stapled it WITHIN 12" of an outlet box.

Steve

 

[andyvh1959]

I agree with the terminology about the "WALL SWITCHED LIGHTING OUTLET MUST BE INSTALLED ON THE EXTERIOR SIDE OF OUTDOOR ENTRANCES TO THE GARAGE".

Strange wording. Perhaps to avoid a switched outlet inside the garage be used to control exterior lights by way of an extension cord?

 

[AntonLargiader]

They are saying you need switched exterior lights at the man doors (this is true pretty much everywhere). I've read before that motion sensing meets the requirement for switching, but the way they have it worded here you need a wall switch no matter what.

FWIW I don't think the car door counts as an entry door for this, but unless you plan to omit that, it's not worth investigating.

 

[Norcal]

Yes, stapling it cable at 6", means that you stapled it WITHIN 12" of an outlet box.

Steve

If someone is using a plastic single gang nail on box, they don’t have cable clamps so they need to be stapled 6-8” from the box. I always do 6” but think the requirement is 8” will need to check to be sure. Also I gave up on plastic boxes.

 

[andyvh1959]

Good clarification. I'll get those stapled to meet code.

Exterior lights required for the service entrance door? I have two vintage gas pumps at each front corner of the garage with lights in them, controlled by a switch inside the garage.

Anton, are you the same Anton of BMW transmissions fame? Also, being from Green Bay I am only three miles from the company that does a LOT of BMW driveshaft rebuilds for most BMW parts suppliers.

 

[HaiKarate]

Is the switched light at the entrance door an NEC requirement? If so anyone have a reference? Or is this just something that the AHJ determines on its own?

 

[AntonLargiader]

It's NEC. 210.70-A-2-2 Detached garages, "At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet... exterior side of outdoor entrances..."

 

[rabakoe]

I've only worked with Kevin on the east side. My experience has been that they will be happy to clarify what they are looking for if you are unsure about the local requirements. Had one or two things he wanted done differently, signed me off anyways with the assurance I would correct after inspection (which I did). Best of luck.

 

[HaiKarate]

It's NEC. 210.70-A-2-2 Detached garages, "At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet... exterior side of outdoor entrances..."

Perfect - thanks!

 

[TractorJeff]

So there needs to be a light on the outside of the entrance door which is controlled by a switch inside the door?

 

[bighouse01]

I just did mine here in NY. Pretty much the same requirements here. Some inspectors have their quirks, just do what they want to see and you’ll be fine.

 

[andyvh1959]

Passed second inspection yesterday. 2nd ground rod installed, properly grounded to the sub-panel. Wiring staples in place and approved. Even added the wire shields on the studs that the previous inspector had ok'd because my wires routed through the studs at 1.25" from the stud face.

 

[andyvh1959]

Got my sub-panel wiring almost done. Inspector looked it over with no issues.

 

[grounded-b]

Why did you land the AFCI/GFCI neutral pigtails on the ground bus? They need to go to the neutral bus.

Steve
JW electrician

 

[andyvh1959]

Glad you caught that. The instructions with the Square D Homelite AFCI/GFCI breakers instructed the black wire for the circuit attaches to the breaker lug, the white wire for the circuit to the neutral bus, and the neutral pigtails go the "panel" bus. I interpreted the panel bus being the ground bus. Now that I think of it, for the AFCI function to work, the breaker has to sense a load on the neutral bus. The only way it could sense anything on the ground bus would be if there is a direct short to ground. I'll correct that and connect the AFCI to the neutral bus bar, and the current white wire for the circuit must connect to the silver screw on the breaker.

 

[grounded-b]

Glad you caught that. The instructions with the Square D Homelite AFCI/GFCI breakers instructed the black wire for the circuit attaches to the breaker lug, the white wire for the circuit to the neutral bus, and the neutral pigtails go the "panel" bus. I interpreted the panel bus being the ground bus. Now that I think of it, for the AFCI function to work, the breaker has to sense a load on the neutral bus. The only way it could sense anything on the ground bus would be if there is a direct short to ground. I'll correct that and connect the AFCI to the neutral bus bar, and the current white wire for the circuit must connect to the silver screw on the breaker.

I didn't catch that in your photo. Yes, you must also MOVE the circuit neutrals off the bus bar, and land them on the breaker.

Steve

 

[beelsr]

fyi. those breakers are gfci only - yellow buttons.

regardless, the pigtail goes to neutral. looks like the wires coming in the top will have just enough length to make it.

what's going in the other knockout - top left?

 

[sky jumper]

Here is one requirement that might cause confusion.

➢ WALL SWITCHED LIGHTING OUTLET MUST BE INSTALLED ON THE EXTERIOR SIDE OF OUTDOOR ENTRANCES TO THE GARAGE.

I believe the intent is to provide permanent switched lighting near the door. But the word “outlet” might be confused by some as requiring a receptacle.

I think that's why my AHJ requires exterior receptacles at each person-door in addition to the switched light. they tried to tell me the lights had to be 3-way (2 doors) but I convinced them to let me get away with simple switches.

 

[Pingel85]

You are allowed to put a wire nut on those neutrals and add a chunk of wire if they aren’t long enough to get them to the breaker

 

[AntonLargiader]

I am pretty surprised the inspector didn't notice the miswired GFCIs.

 

[spudley]

I am pretty surprised the inspector didn't notice the miswired GFCIs.

Or the lack of an insulated bushing on the feeder conduit.

 

[Pingel85]

Also, since you opened all the ko,s on the side of the panel, I would pull the conductors off the sides (they look like they may be touching). Conductors move, and overtime it could rub through causing an issue. One of those ounce of prevention things.

All in all good work, but like others have noted, few other things to correct.

1. Move the gfi neutrals and land the neutrals on the breakers.

2. Remove the emt connector if you’re not going to use it and put a knockout closure

3. I know it’s pvc conduit, but put a threaded bushing on the feeder conductors. Again, cheap insurance

4. Put a Romex connector on the grounding electrode wire.

5. Can’t see on the picture well, but it looks like there is some kind of neural bond on the bottom where the ground electrode runs?

 

[Chris130]

5. Can’t see on the picture well, but it looks like there is some kind of neural bond on the bottom where the ground electrode runs?

Yep, I was just going to post about that little bar too -- what is going on down there?

It's difficult to follow all of the wires connecting to it, but it looks like the white wires are being used as grounds? I'm not sure why any of that is necessary.

 

[grounded-b]

I am pretty surprised the inspector didn't notice the miswired GFCIs.

It's not really the inspector's job to tell you that you screwed up.

** Unless it's a code violation, or when they come thru for the final and their tester won't trip the GFCI

When the GFCI's won't stay reset, you'll know you made an error !!

Steve

 

[andyvh1959]

Thanks all. Some things I need to clarify:
1. Inspector looked it over before I had installed the AF breakers, so it was me, not him
2. The knockouts will be filled with plugs. I initially had the panel mounted thinking I could route wires through the studs right into the panel. But since the better way to do it was into the top and bottom of the panel, I relocated the panel and added the Romex clamps.
3. The extra knockout on the top left will be replaced with a plug. Nothing else going in there.
4. The AF breaker neutrals will be corrected, going to the correct screw on the breaker and the AF sensor will be relocated correctly to the neutral bus bar.
5. The small ground bar will go unused once the AF sensor neutrals are corrected.
6. The inspector had no issues with the 1-1/2 conduit connection to the sub-panel, but I can add a bushing inside the conduit end where it meets the panel.
7. "Put a Romex connector on the grounding electrode wire"; now, since the ground wire is bonded to the sub-panel, if the ground cable contacts the opening in the bottom of the panel it does not change the ground connection. The ground cable also clears the knockout hole in the bottom of the panel. So what does the cable clamp really do?

 

[Pingel85]

7. "Put a Romex connector on the grounding electrode wire"; now, since the ground wire is bonded to the sub-panel, if the ground cable contacts the opening in the bottom of the panel it does not change the ground connection. The ground cable also clears the knockout hole in the bottom of the panel. So what does the cable clamp really do?

Electrically it does nothing different, but it closes the knockout better to prevent dust and bugs from entering and an arc from leaving