woody 73
Well-known member
That is it I am going cold turkey on this hammer post it just is killing me too see all these fantastic hammers...and to beat all now you are showing me that hammer collection I just will toss and turn all night long!


No ****? Thanks for sharing, good sir. Always learning here.![]()
In 1922 the insignificant wrench line was expanded. The few wrenches made at that time were made out of Model T Ford axles which were suitable in size and analysis for the company's purpose. In 1928 the first acquisition was completed with the purchase of the Paschall Tool Co. of Long Beach, CA. This company had previously been a competitor and produced many of the same products. The Paschall brand Ball Pein Hammer with the Paschall stamping was the only ball pein produced by the Plomb Tool Company right up to the end of Plomb production. This was done in an agreement not to use the Plomb logo on the same type of tool produced by the Plumb Tool Co. (makers of primarily striking tools). This similarity in name was to become a major problem which is described in the next section.
Also this on has a good side chunk missing out of the corner of it. Sorry battery died before I could get another shot. It looks like it was made from 2 pieces of steel. As in the face looks thin and wrapped over an inner core.
Any ideas?
Since we got the pros here, can I get some advice? Here are a few handless hammers that I have. The top and bottom I have had for years, the mid I just got in a box at a garage sale.
Top --> No name, kinda rough, black paint, no markings of any kind.
Mid--> Plumb "Leader" Overall good condition, not dinged or other issues.
Bottom--> Been around the block a few times. Can't read it well but it says (I think) "Heler / USA" I'm positive on the USA end part and pretty sure about the HE at the beginning, the rest is a guess. I did a google search and couldn't find anything close. Any ideasAlso this on has a good side chunk missing out of the corner of it. Sorry battery died before I could get another shot. It looks like it was made from 2 pieces of steel. As in the face looks thin and wrapped over an inner core.
Any ideas?
I'm thinking about re handling them. Do you think it is worth it for these heads? I'm definitly going to do the Plumb one, but not sure on the other two. I would like to use the bottom one, because of it's size (like a soda can) but not sure about using that face with the missing chip. What would you do?
Hammer drawer pic in the works, battery died in my aging point n shoot.

Wire Wheel and if you want to get fancy, use a strip/belt sander on the face and adjacent cylinder. Hey! JJ can post one I got overly detailed with!![]()

Thanks guys 
Only ones I don't rehandle are those stamped China and even then I've done a few bigger drillers hammers if I find a cheap handle at the flea or on sale.
As for the "rough" looking head, that ain't rough.
That's just surface rust over black paint.

ZK, unless it has signs of mushrooming really bad, they are always worth re-handling, to me
(Unless its another no name dupe then it just sits until a friend needs a hammer that size)

Absolutely, I must have at least 10 that were found as just rusty heads & were rehandled.I'm thinking about re handling them. Do you think it is worth it for these heads?
Where do you get your handles? I've had recommendations from other members, but never hurts to find different options. That BP hammer looks real nice.
I just need to find or make a soft face type and I should be set.ZRX61, thanks.Where do you get your handles? I've had recommendations from other members, but never hurts to find different options.

zkling,,,,WTF? I've never seen what's going on with that hammer.
They way it broke? If so, yea it really looks like a inner core of steel wraped in a outter jacket. And somehow only the outer jacket broke. 
What is the WTF on?They way it broke? If so, yea it really looks like a inner core of steel wraped in a outter jacket. And somehow only the outer jacket broke.
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exacto-mundo. How was that cast?/formed?/dipped?/forged?/etc.??
Best bet is Epstein's, they have the best deal on American made hickory handles, $1.85 each. Here's the link:
http://store.harryepstein.com/search?q=hammer+handles
Thanks. Do you prefer metal or wood wedges?Looks like an upholsterers hammer to me.
Thanks, but not nearly as many or übercool as you guys...before i read this i felt satisfied, but now...Fleamarkets, where are you?Roverbo...you've got some cool frikin hammers man!

I really like the upholsterers hammer, Roverbo!!!
US i don´t know but german yes:I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening?
US i don´t know but german yes:![]()

)JJJRMX5, I'm really glad you posted that. It answered my newest question.Thanks. Do you prefer metal or wood wedges?
Good point about going to the store and trying them. Although the $1.85 price at Epstein is inviting, after shipping for 3-4 handles it ends up breaking down to ~$4.50 per handle.
Some other non-BP hammers of mine;
Inset mallets, currently rawhide, but you can put wood, brass, lead, whatever in them...
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And some plastic face Hammers, a couple are old and I need to find or make faces for them...
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And the solid plastic and rawhide mallets:
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The Wood Mallets:
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Getting heavier, Engineer, hammers, a heavy cross peen, and what I believe is a riveting hammer for hi-rise work.
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And some sheet metal hammers, and a couple of heads needing handles. and of course the rivet sets. Still in use in the trades even if peened rivets are generally not...I have one more SM hammer, but it was in a box that is buried.
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As mentioned before, if ever getting a hammer from Outlaw that has received his TLC, you will get the best.
Top two heads were from Outlaw (small ball peen and Vaughn USA 16 oz. claw.)
Bottom hammer is my current flea mkt. rescue. Was a rusty mess with cracked handle. 16oz.
3 day soak in vinegar and buff the head (insert *** joke here. LOL)
New handle with stain and now needs a few coats of finish this weekend.
Old handle that was on it at the bottom.
Last pic is the partial GJ and flea mkt dwr.
SK and Nupla + 2 other bought here on GJ for an awesomely low price.
Cross peen was a road find and rusty as hell.
Rest of the ball peens were the 50 cent or $1 finds at the flea or garage sale.
I;ve got other GJ hammers, but in other tool boxes.
A new or refinished handle and a buffed head makes using these things quite the pleasure.
Got my shpmnt of 10" handles in today so the baby ball peen from Outlaw will be useable soon.
Gotta attack the Vaughn after that.![]()
here is another one....from Hultafors:
Regarding the danish type carpenters claw hammer, i took a few more shots. I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening? It´s very durable, and quite odd:
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Great part is what they order for me is just lightly clear finished so I remove that finish, and can stain whatever color I like. I've been in my orange phase now but want to do a couple in snap-on inspired but subtle bright green stain. Then I just hit them with a couple light coats of satin Deft clear wood finish. It's not slick like polyurethane but holds up just as well.
Great hammers everybody.
I'm sure Outlaw knows as he bought it, but for those that don't know, the white plastic one shown that Outlaw has, I just picked up a yellow one from Wal-Mart for 3 bucks. It's for tent pegs and found in the camping section. Great hammer. Great price.![]()

Regarding the danish type carpenters claw hammer, i took a few more shots. I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening? It´s very durable, and quite odd:
View media item 33291Two steel "lugs" or "fishplates" (sorry, this is where my vocabulary ends..)..
View media item 33288).