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Hammer time!

woody 73

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That is it I am going cold turkey on this hammer post it just is killing me too see all these fantastic hammers...and to beat all now you are showing me that hammer collection I just will toss and turn all night long!:willy_nil
 
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ZRX61

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No ****? Thanks for sharing, good sir. Always learning here. :beer::thumbup:

Yup, Plomb wanted to get into the hammer business & the quickest/easiest way was for them to buy out Paschall... So that dates your hammer as being "more than just a bit old"
I've got 1 (maybe 2) of them.

In 1922 the insignificant wrench line was expanded. The few wrenches made at that time were made out of Model T Ford axles which were suitable in size and analysis for the company's purpose. In 1928 the first acquisition was completed with the purchase of the Paschall Tool Co. of Long Beach, CA. This company had previously been a competitor and produced many of the same products. The Paschall brand Ball Pein Hammer with the Paschall stamping was the only ball pein produced by the Plomb Tool Company right up to the end of Plomb production. This was done in an agreement not to use the Plomb logo on the same type of tool produced by the Plumb Tool Co. (makers of primarily striking tools). This similarity in name was to become a major problem which is described in the next section.


from here:
http://www.vannattabros.com/plomb/plombtool.html
 
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zkling

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Since we got the pros here, can I get some advice? Here are a few handless hammers that I have. The top and bottom I have had for years, the mid I just got in a box at a garage sale.

Top --> No name, kinda rough, black paint, no markings of any kind.

Mid--> Plumb "Leader" Overall good condition, not dinged or other issues.

Bottom--> Been around the block a few times. Can't read it well but it says (I think) "Heler / USA" I'm positive on the USA end part and pretty sure about the HE at the beginning, the rest is a guess. I did a google search and couldn't find anything close. Any ideas :dunno: Also this on has a good side chunk missing out of the corner of it. Sorry battery died before I could get another shot. It looks like it was made from 2 pieces of steel. As in the face looks thin and wrapped over an inner core. :dunno: Any ideas?

I'm thinking about re handling them. Do you think it is worth it for these heads? I'm definitly going to do the Plumb one, but not sure on the other two. I would like to use the bottom one, because of it's size (like a soda can) but not sure about using that face with the missing chip. What would you do? :beer:

Hammer drawer pic in the works, battery died in my aging point n shoot.
 

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jjjrmx5

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Since we got the pros here, can I get some advice? Here are a few handless hammers that I have. The top and bottom I have had for years, the mid I just got in a box at a garage sale.

Top --> No name, kinda rough, black paint, no markings of any kind.

Mid--> Plumb "Leader" Overall good condition, not dinged or other issues.

Bottom--> Been around the block a few times. Can't read it well but it says (I think) "Heler / USA" I'm positive on the USA end part and pretty sure about the HE at the beginning, the rest is a guess. I did a google search and couldn't find anything close. Any ideas :dunno: Also this on has a good side chunk missing out of the corner of it. Sorry battery died before I could get another shot. It looks like it was made from 2 pieces of steel. As in the face looks thin and wrapped over an inner core. :dunno: Any ideas?

I'm thinking about re handling them. Do you think it is worth it for these heads? I'm definitly going to do the Plumb one, but not sure on the other two. I would like to use the bottom one, because of it's size (like a soda can) but not sure about using that face with the missing chip. What would you do? :beer:

Hammer drawer pic in the works, battery died in my aging point n shoot.


Rehandle them? Hell yes.

Only ones I don't rehandle are those stamped China and even then I've done a few bigger drillers hammers if I find a cheap handle at the flea or on sale.

As for the "rough" looking head, that ain't rough. :)
That's just surface rust over black paint.

You should see some of the ones I've brought back to life.

Soak the rough one in vinegar for a few days.
Scrub with toothbrush and then rinse.
Scotchbite pad and wd-40 or atf and assess condition.
Use fine sandpaper if necessary but you'll need to buff that out with the scotchbrite again.

I take mine to a very fine wire wheel to brighten up and get back to new or I just use a pneumatic die grinder with a scotchbrite roloc pad.

For $3-$5 a handle and just time you get USA near new $15 to $20 hammers there.

Use them or trade them for other tools you need here on GJ. I;ve done it often. :)

As for the head with the chip (looks like 32oz or 40oz head) , I'd take it to a grinder and try and remove the sharp edges gently and take it down around that area to smooth and see where that leaves ya. That way it is less likely to chip again and throw a second shard off.

I have yet to come across a hammer with an issue like that and I;ve ground a lot of faces, heads and balls to get them usable/back to spec on a lot of hammers. LOLZZZ.
 
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Outlawmws

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ZK, unless it has signs of mushrooming really bad, they are always worth re-handling, to me, (Unless its another no name dupe then it just sits until a friend needs a hammer that size)

Wire Wheel and if you want to get fancy, use a strip/belt sander on the face and adjacent cylinder. Hey! JJ can post one I got overly detailed with! :evil:
 

jjjrmx5

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Wire Wheel and if you want to get fancy, use a strip/belt sander on the face and adjacent cylinder. Hey! JJ can post one I got overly detailed with! :evil:

LOLZZZZ.

And to quote Teri Hatcher re: what outlaw sent me, with the Seinfield episode and the naked steam room scene...

"Oh yes...they're real. And they're SPECTACULAR!"

Oh yes they are.

:)
:lol:

I'll get a pic up.
 

zkling

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:lol_hitti Thanks guys :beer:

Only ones I don't rehandle are those stamped China and even then I've done a few bigger drillers hammers if I find a cheap handle at the flea or on sale.

As for the "rough" looking head, that ain't rough. :)
That's just surface rust over black paint.

I really wasn't sure with the rough cast lines on the side and no stamp on them. I didn't see china then again I didn't see any marking on them. :dunno:
Actually I have a 5gal bucket of hammer heads that someone gave me a few years back when I was getting started in bladesmithing. I've given a few away over the years, put handles on a few of the forging hammers, but there are still a bunch of random drilling and mini sledges that need handles. Some are pretty beat like that chipped up ball pein. That is a good point about, with a $5 handle I will then have a $15 hammer. Cause as they sit now, really they are kinda useless.

I think I will do the Plumb first.

ZK, unless it has signs of mushrooming really bad, they are always worth re-handling, to me

No the only thing really wrong with it is the chip. When I get my camera charged I will try to take a better pic. It really looks like two separate metals.

Any ideas on the brand? Starts with an "HE"

(Unless its another no name dupe then it just sits until a friend needs a hammer that size)

That is what I was afraid of. I have a few of those small black, kinda rough ball pein heads that have no markings on that at all. Nothing. :dunno:


EDIT
I wirewheeled the large one real good. Looks like "HELHER U.S.A" the H in red I am not positive on. Maybe an F or an E. I couldn't find anything in google under helher, helfer, heleer. Possibly a Heller?
 
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ZRX61

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I'm thinking about re handling them. Do you think it is worth it for these heads?
Absolutely, I must have at least 10 that were found as just rusty heads & were rehandled.

This one had half a handle & was a rusty POS.... turned out to be Blue Point 20oz. This is one for the next batch that get new handles.



 

zkling

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ZRX61, thanks. :beer: Where do you get your handles? I've had recommendations from other members, but never hurts to find different options. That BP hammer looks real nice. :drool:

After wire wheeling. I tried to get a close up of the damaged area. Please ignore my fingers.

Last pic is as promised hammer drawer. Minus 2 or 3 claw hammers and my forging hammers. Didn't realize I had that many ball peins, two (in pic) were added just this past weekend :eek:. :headscrat I just need to find or make a soft face type and I should be set.
 

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Mohawk Dave

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zkling,,,,WTF? I've never seen what's going on with that hammer. I pray someone here can tell us. That is just plain weird to me.:headscrat

And obv, that's a Heller hammer.
 

zkling

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zkling,,,,WTF? I've never seen what's going on with that hammer.

What is the WTF on? :headscrat They way it broke? If so, yea it really looks like a inner core of steel wraped in a outter jacket. And somehow only the outer jacket broke. :dunno:
 

Mohawk Dave

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What is the WTF on? :headscrat They way it broke? If so, yea it really looks like a inner core of steel wraped in a outter jacket. And somehow only the outer jacket broke. :dunno:

exacto-mundo. How was that cast?/formed?/dipped?/forged?/etc.??

Is the outer shell steel? Inner? Unobtainium?
 

zkling

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exacto-mundo. How was that cast?/formed?/dipped?/forged?/etc.??

Your guess would be better than mine. I want to say jacketed kinda like an anvil, but honestly I have no idea. That is a question better left to the hammer experts, of which I am not.
 

jjjrmx5

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Best bet is Epstein's, they have the best deal on American made hickory handles, $1.85 each. Here's the link:

http://store.harryepstein.com/search?q=hammer+handles

I don't know if you noticed but there is no standard as to how big the handle hole is on many older haeds realtive to the size of the handle.

I'm doing a 16oz ball peen currently that should use a 14" handle to match the head weight, but the handle hole opening is so small that by the time you take enough mat'l off a 14" handle, it will likely be too weak to take the wailing a 14" long will provide, thus I'm using a shorter 12" handle.

On the other end I;ve got that 32oz Plumb to do and the head hole opening on it is so large that even a 16" bp handle is too small at the head end to ensure a snug fit using the Indiana sourced handles I use (all Link brand) as Ace, Do-It centers and even the indepent local stores all source the same, so I took it to Sears and low and behold the 32oz bp replacement handle they sell is a mondo size and will work.

So the lesson I learned is if only doing a couple, take them to a local store to ensure handle fitment. If doing many, buy online but you better buy one 10", 12", 14" and 16" at least as what you think will work may not unless you can visually eyeball things in person.

BTDT enough by now to keep one of each around and work around what they don't fit on.

Handle brands vary in size as do the head holes per hammer head, so things are somewhat of a moving target.
:)
 

jeffmoss26

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That's the problem I have had with several hammers...the sander at work usually takes care of any handles that are too big :D

edit. jjjrmx CHECK YOUR PMS
 
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zkling

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JJJRMX5, I'm really glad you posted that. It answered my newest question. :beer: Thanks. Do you prefer metal or wood wedges?

Good point about going to the store and trying them. Although the $1.85 price at Epstein is inviting, after shipping for 3-4 handles it ends up breaking down to ~$4.50 per handle.
 
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Roverbo

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Looks like an upholsterers hammer to me.

Yes, it does. So now I´ve got an upholsterers hammer...hmmm...strange thing is, it isn´t magnetic at all. Still like it though. ;)

Roverbo...you've got some cool frikin hammers man!
Thanks, but not nearly as many or übercool as you guys...before i read this i felt satisfied, but now...Fleamarkets, where are you?:lol:

I really like the upholsterers hammer, Roverbo!!!

Thanks again.

Regarding the danish type carpenters claw hammer, i took a few more shots. I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening? It´s very durable, and quite odd:
View media item 33291Two steel "lugs" or "fishplates" (sorry, this is where my vocabulary ends..)..

View media item 33288..wedge´d in from the front of the head, and riveted through the handle. As a bonus, no need for the E-tape I´ve seen here, used to protect the handle. It has never been nescessary to change any of these handles.

Three more danish hammers and mallets:
View media item 33289The mallets are both from DSI, 1,5 kg., and 2,0 kg. (3 and 4 pounds). The brass/plastic faced hammer is shop-made.

View media item 33290DSI = Dansk stål industri (Danish steel industry).
 
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Roverbo

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US i don´t know but german yes: :)

Ahhrrr...so the berliners have copied the danish type :lol_hitti

Nearly the same, but a more sleek design, lower weight, and better finish (and with this type of tool, i think i prefer "rough blacksmith finish" :lol:)
 

jjjrmx5

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JJJRMX5, I'm really glad you posted that. It answered my newest question. :beer: Thanks. Do you prefer metal or wood wedges?



I almost always use both. Wood wedge longitudinally and metal wedge on the short length.
The 12" handles I get don;t have the wood wedge so I cut my own slot with a dove tail saw and just cut down and grind the big wood wedges/framing shims that you get at any hadware store. I've even ground down wood paint mixing stix and put a bevel on them to make wood wedges for hammers in a pinch.

10" handles all depends. If sloppy head itself, I do the same as above. If clean hole, sometimes the metal wedge driven at an angle is sufficient.

I like both mainly for security. Having a head come loose or fly across the shop seldom ends well.

Good point about going to the store and trying them. Although the $1.85 price at Epstein is inviting, after shipping for 3-4 handles it ends up breaking down to ~$4.50 per handle.

My local Ace keeps the 12" machinst/ball peen handles in stock and they ordered a case each of 14" and 16" to stock since I;ve been buying them and now the 10"ers. That covers everything from 6 or 8oz. up to 40oz +.
$4 to $5.50 a handle.
Great part is what they order for me is just lightly clear finished so I remove that finish, and can stain whatever color I like. I've been in my orange phase now but want to do a couple in snap-on inspired but subtle bright green stain. Then I just hit them with a couple light coats of satin Deft clear wood finish. It's not slick like polyurethane but holds up just as well.

I;m not a fan of dark stained handles because they can get lost in dark areas or hell, lost if setting them down under a car or on a dark concrete finished floor.
Dark hides dirt well but cleanup has never been a hassle on my lighter handles. I like the colors to differentiate my tools but they hide dirt and dings better than just a clear only finish on blonde hickory.

If working with a C'man handle, minwax makes a stain that closely matches the OEM finish so grinding down the top to fit but making what shows match is not a problem. Had to do it on that C;man handle I did last month. Looked perfect and factory and it took some amt of modding to get that claw hammer handle to fit a ball peen head.

:)

Fitting takes the time and finess. The rest goes really fast.
 
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taumac

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Brooksville, Fl
Some other non-BP hammers of mine;

Inset mallets, currently rawhide, but you can put wood, brass, lead, whatever in them...

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And some plastic face Hammers, a couple are old and I need to find or make faces for them...

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And the solid plastic and rawhide mallets:

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The Wood Mallets:

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Getting heavier, Engineer, hammers, a heavy cross peen, and what I believe is a riveting hammer for hi-rise work. :dunno:

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And some sheet metal hammers, and a couple of heads needing handles. and of course the rivet sets. Still in use in the trades even if peened rivets are generally not...I have one more SM hammer, but it was in a box that is buried.

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My neighbor gave me a Garland no 3 with a rowhide insert and nothing in other side. I fashion a rubber insert for it. This has become my favorite hammer and cant wait to get the others in set. maybe a No1 and No5
 

GINIK

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My cross peen hammers in different sizes and types.
All are made by "Tors hammer" (swedish brand), except the black one to the left on the second picture which is a Peddinghaus from Germany.

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GINIK

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My humble collection of ball peen hammers (compared to some members ;) ).
Some of these hammers have been shown in higher resolution in earlier posts.

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jjjrmx5

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As mentioned before, if ever getting a hammer from Outlaw that has received his TLC, you will get the best. :)

Top two heads were from Outlaw (small ball peen and Vaughn USA 16 oz. claw.)

Bottom hammer is my current flea mkt. rescue. Was a rusty mess with cracked handle. 16oz.
3 day soak in vinegar and buff the head (insert *** joke here. LOL)
New handle with stain and now needs a few coats of finish this weekend.
Old handle that was on it at the bottom.

Last pic is the partial GJ and flea mkt dwr.
SK and Nupla + 2 other bought here on GJ for an awesomely low price.
Cross peen was a road find and rusty as hell.
Rest of the ball peens were the 50 cent or $1 finds at the flea or garage sale.
I;ve got other GJ hammers, but in other tool boxes.

A new or refinished handle and a buffed head makes using these things quite the pleasure.

Got my shpmnt of 10" handles in today so the baby ball peen from Outlaw will be useable soon. :)
Gotta attack the Vaughn after that. :thumbup:
 

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Monte

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Ahhrrr...so the berliners have copied the danish type :lol_hitti

Nearly the same, but a more sleek design, lower weight, and better finish (and with this type of tool, i think i prefer "rough blacksmith finish" :lol:)

here is another one....from Hultafors:

 

GINIK

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As mentioned before, if ever getting a hammer from Outlaw that has received his TLC, you will get the best. :)

Top two heads were from Outlaw (small ball peen and Vaughn USA 16 oz. claw.)

Bottom hammer is my current flea mkt. rescue. Was a rusty mess with cracked handle. 16oz.
3 day soak in vinegar and buff the head (insert *** joke here. LOL)
New handle with stain and now needs a few coats of finish this weekend.
Old handle that was on it at the bottom.

Last pic is the partial GJ and flea mkt dwr.
SK and Nupla + 2 other bought here on GJ for an awesomely low price.
Cross peen was a road find and rusty as hell.
Rest of the ball peens were the 50 cent or $1 finds at the flea or garage sale.
I;ve got other GJ hammers, but in other tool boxes.

A new or refinished handle and a buffed head makes using these things quite the pleasure.

Got my shpmnt of 10" handles in today so the baby ball peen from Outlaw will be useable soon. :)
Gotta attack the Vaughn after that. :thumbup:

Your ball peen is looking good.
Let's see your other two hammers when they are finished :).

This is a Stirrup Brand hammer (Made in Germany).
The handle is in good condition.
So I think I will just wirebrush the head and oil the handle.

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Mohawk Dave

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Great hammers everybody.

I'm sure Outlaw knows as he bought it, but for those that don't know, the white plastic one shown that Outlaw has, I just picked up a yellow one from Wal-Mart for 3 bucks. It's for tent pegs and found in the camping section. Great hammer. Great price. :thumbup:
 

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Dave455

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Regarding the danish type carpenters claw hammer, i took a few more shots. I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening? It´s very durable, and quite odd:
.

I don't know about US hammers, but some older British ones wre made in this style. Some of them were really nice with the side pieces inlaid into the wooden handle.

Wooden handle firemans axes were made like this until very recently, and may even still be available!
 

Jolomite

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Great part is what they order for me is just lightly clear finished so I remove that finish, and can stain whatever color I like. I've been in my orange phase now but want to do a couple in snap-on inspired but subtle bright green stain. Then I just hit them with a couple light coats of satin Deft clear wood finish. It's not slick like polyurethane but holds up just as well.


I'm curious to see your different results in finish color. From orange to green hue- I can picture that turning out really nice- so...don't be shy with them photos! Thanks;)
 
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Outlawmws

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Great hammers everybody.

I'm sure Outlaw knows as he bought it, but for those that don't know, the white plastic one shown that Outlaw has, I just picked up a yellow one from Wal-Mart for 3 bucks. It's for tent pegs and found in the camping section. Great hammer. Great price. :thumbup:

Actually I did NOT know as I got is with a bunch of leather working stuff someone gave me. So thanks! good to know! :thumbup:

I can't imagine it being too useful for any but those damn plastic stakes, I don't use those at all, I make up stakes from 12" spikes and welded fender washers, leaving the head about an inch out so it's easier to pull. It IS light weight though (the hammer), so maybe intended for back packers? :dunno:
 
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Outlawmws

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Regarding the danish type carpenters claw hammer, i took a few more shots. I wonder if any US hammers has this type of fastening? It´s very durable, and quite odd:
View media item 33291Two steel "lugs" or "fishplates" (sorry, this is where my vocabulary ends..)..

View media item 33288).

I have a Piton hammer (Mountain climbing) that has that type of reinforcement and head retention straps. and I've seen that on bill posters hammers. (handles many FEET long...)
 
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