HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
Shooboy gunsmith hammer. Comes with a couple of replaceable heads, harder and softer. I believe the white one in the pic is nylon.
Hammer time!
- Thread starter Outlawmws
- Start date
Provincial
Well-known member
I picked up a Stiletto 8 oz. ball pein hammer last week. I started a thread on it in the Vintage Tool section.
Apparently, it was a house brand for a hardware store in the San Francisco area. I wonder who the supplier was? The shape of the head is pretty distinctive, especially the ball end.
Apparently, it was a house brand for a hardware store in the San Francisco area. I wonder who the supplier was? The shape of the head is pretty distinctive, especially the ball end.
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smokeyburb
Well-known member
LesserSon, love that 2oz Bonney!
Yeah....that lil Bonney is worthy of any toolbox. I wish Bonney was still alive making US made tools.
dutchgray
Well-known member
View media item 105296I have this unusual one by W.H.Swift & Sons Sheffield with a broadarrow and 1955 stamped in, shown next to a 2lb English Stanley. Handle is just under 2'. I haven't weighed the head but it feels like it is a good 3lb but not 4lb
30-30remchester
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
- Messages
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Am in search of history of a @40 ounce cross peen shop hammer. The interesting thing about this hammer is that it has a milled head not cast. The only marking is the word "TIGER" inside a rectangle. I have had this hammer for at least 30 years and been a mainstay in my shop. Has anyone heard of this brand?
steaks&anvils
Well-known member
While cruising, I saw this on the internet, do you think yours is also a "top swage"?
A bit different, but mostly the same.
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AngryBeaver
Well-known member
Heres a few of my craftsmans. some year I'll finish the "set" of the craftsman Professional Mechanics.
So far we have the
48465 size 0 16oz
48464 size 2/0 12 oz
48463 size 3/0 8 oz
48461 size 5/0 4 oz
How many were in this set? I assume there was a 48462 which should be a 6oz? I can assume that a 48466 would be a 20 oz size 1 and the 48467 a size 2 24 ounce?
the two on the left are plumbs, a 20oz and a 24ounce head. the other craftsman is a 16ounce. bottom right was a badly worn 8oz c-man with a broken handle, so it got made into a stubby. The 4 ounce has green paint on the head with gold letters and the 8,12,16's have a grey finish with gold letters. Is the green one older? The very bottom one is either a 4oz or 6oz 1930's. And the one with the funny handle is a beryllium 24 oz Ampco. Somewhere I have an old craftsman claw hammer with a weird looking long snout.
So far we have the
48465 size 0 16oz
48464 size 2/0 12 oz
48463 size 3/0 8 oz
48461 size 5/0 4 oz
How many were in this set? I assume there was a 48462 which should be a 6oz? I can assume that a 48466 would be a 20 oz size 1 and the 48467 a size 2 24 ounce?
the two on the left are plumbs, a 20oz and a 24ounce head. the other craftsman is a 16ounce. bottom right was a badly worn 8oz c-man with a broken handle, so it got made into a stubby. The 4 ounce has green paint on the head with gold letters and the 8,12,16's have a grey finish with gold letters. Is the green one older? The very bottom one is either a 4oz or 6oz 1930's. And the one with the funny handle is a beryllium 24 oz Ampco. Somewhere I have an old craftsman claw hammer with a weird looking long snout.
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sberry
Banned
I aint that fussy. The HF fiberglass 22oz will break after a bit of abuse, I ordered a 22 rip steel from HF the other day for my truck but they were out.
30-30remchester
Well-known member
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- Messages
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30-30, you need to upload the pics - we cannot see them on you PC.
"Posting pics 101:
Start from the ""Go Advanced"" posting menus, or the ""Post Reply"" button near the bottom of any page, (Or hit the ""paperclip"" button to get to the upload popup); and at step 5 copy it into the URL field after hitting the ""postcard"" button: (Step 4/5 is optional; you will still have thumbnails)
"
"Posting pics 101:
Start from the ""Go Advanced"" posting menus, or the ""Post Reply"" button near the bottom of any page, (Or hit the ""paperclip"" button to get to the upload popup); and at step 5 copy it into the URL field after hitting the ""postcard"" button: (Step 4/5 is optional; you will still have thumbnails)
steaks&anvils
Well-known member
Alloy Artifacts has: "Tiger Tools, Gamble's Auto Stores Brand used in early 1940s or before."
Google sure is no help either.
I would bet it was made under contract by one of the classic tool companies of the past and then sold under a house brand name.
Looks like a nicely made hammer and you say you have gotten decades of use out of it.
30-30remchester
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
- Messages
- 250
Thanks for the replies. I have searched for years on the net trying to find anything with no luck. I bought out an old water well drilling company when I was 19 years old circa 1974. With the equipment I got all the tools from his barn. I believe I acquired it from him. I know I still have the claw hammer I got from the barn. I used this hammer many times a day on my outside welding table during my 36 year career in construction. Still has the original handle. As you can see there is tape wrapped around the handle near the head. I wrapped the handle there with a thin layer of metal shim stock, then with electrical rubber tape then with electrical tape. I do this to prevent damage from overstrike blows. I have to re-wrap the handle every few years. Looks funky but it keeps the handle from being damaged. I use a Blue Point 16 oz. ball peen more than anything around the work bench. I have had it for over 30 years and it still had the original handle. Last week I had it up on the roof of my house doing repair to the stove pipe. Having too many tools to get down the latter with I tossed it into a dirt flowerbed below and the handle snapped off. Felt terrible about it. I re-handled the head and have worked on the new handle for a week now trying to get it to the same size and contour that I am accustomed to. The new handle was 1 1/2" longer and I missed most of everything I swung at. Dang I miss that old handle.
zip94
Well-known member
Here are my ball peen hammers including Plumb, New Britain, Vaughn, Proto, Craftsman and a few unmarked.
Provincial
Well-known member
I bought a 3 lb. blacksmith hammer at a garage sale a couple of weeks ago. I bought it because it is a pattern that I have liked since I was a kid, way too many years ago! My grandfather had a lighter one of the same pattern, and I use it to this day. This one had been re-handled by someone who didn't know what they were doing. There was no wooden wedge, just a steel one, and there were big gaps where the handle fit into the head. The head was on upside down. The head itself was in good shape. It appears to have been well-used, but has not deformed, so I think it is of high quality. For $1.00 I felt it was worth a try.
I was able to remove the head from the handle by clamping the handle in a vise with soft jaws and hitting the head with a dead blow hammer. It was that loose! I was able to work the steel wedge out of the handle without doing more damage. I then use a rasp the reshape the end of the handle to match the socket it the head as close a possible. Too much material had been removed from the front and back (long axis of the head) of the handle, so I decided to use epoxy to fill that and help hold the head on.
I bead-blasted the socket of the head, cleaned up the handle mating area, applied epoxy to the socket and inserted the handle. I drove in a new wooden wedge using a flat steel plate to transfer the blows over the entire top of the wedge. In spite of this, the wedge split. I think this is because the head of the handle was so damaged by the steel wedge that it resulted in uneven stresses when the wedge was driven home. The handle was quite tight, so I left it and used a toothpick to work epoxy into any voids. After the epoxy hardened, I sawed off the excess wooden wedge.
I just used it for the first time today, and it worked perfectly. I'm glad I saved a good hammer!
I can find no indentifying marking on the hammer head. I have seen other hammers with this form referred to as "Oregon" hammers, and that is where I live. I doubt my home state is the only place that used this design of head.
I was able to remove the head from the handle by clamping the handle in a vise with soft jaws and hitting the head with a dead blow hammer. It was that loose! I was able to work the steel wedge out of the handle without doing more damage. I then use a rasp the reshape the end of the handle to match the socket it the head as close a possible. Too much material had been removed from the front and back (long axis of the head) of the handle, so I decided to use epoxy to fill that and help hold the head on.
I bead-blasted the socket of the head, cleaned up the handle mating area, applied epoxy to the socket and inserted the handle. I drove in a new wooden wedge using a flat steel plate to transfer the blows over the entire top of the wedge. In spite of this, the wedge split. I think this is because the head of the handle was so damaged by the steel wedge that it resulted in uneven stresses when the wedge was driven home. The handle was quite tight, so I left it and used a toothpick to work epoxy into any voids. After the epoxy hardened, I sawed off the excess wooden wedge.
I just used it for the first time today, and it worked perfectly. I'm glad I saved a good hammer!
I can find no indentifying marking on the hammer head. I have seen other hammers with this form referred to as "Oregon" hammers, and that is where I live. I doubt my home state is the only place that used this design of head.
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Provincial
Well-known member
Thanks, Outlaw!
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I don’t think I’ve ever posted this old-school hammer we use around the shop at work. Not sure if it is a holdover from when they did shoe repair. It’s been fixed many times!
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Seppala
Well-known member
That’s a steel hoop setting tool used by a cooper. It is a hammer struck tool with the groove end placed on the metal hoop and then driven into position.
Noworries
Banned
I usually see this on smaller, lighter, hammers and I think its for hammers specifically intended for forming soft metals (like copper or silver) so they get some handle flex even with lighter strikes.
Another possible use is gasket forming (I've laid a sheet of gasket material against a cast iron surface, and gently tapped along the outside with the ball end, ; then done the same for the inside and holes, and then peeled the "waste" part off, and had a perfect gasket.
Not a plan for an aluminum surface however...
The thinner handle also keeps the user for trying to overdrive something.
I have several of these, They are not common, but not rare either.
Another possible use is gasket forming (I've laid a sheet of gasket material against a cast iron surface, and gently tapped along the outside with the ball end, ; then done the same for the inside and holes, and then peeled the "waste" part off, and had a perfect gasket.
Not a plan for an aluminum surface however...
The thinner handle also keeps the user for trying to overdrive something.
I have several of these, They are not common, but not rare either.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
It is not magnetic
dkroth
Well-known member
Heller Made in USA
The horse logo is a very weak strike. If you look closely you can see the legs and the tail.
So what do you call this since there's no ball? Just "hammer"?
.
The horse logo is a very weak strike. If you look closely you can see the legs and the tail.
So what do you call this since there's no ball? Just "hammer"?
.
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steaks&anvils
Well-known member
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beltdrive
Well-known member
I found this interesting Atkins No 4 hammer today. I discovered upon getting it home and doing some research it is a saw set hammer. It seems fairly rare but also quite valuable...one person was asking 499 on ebay a couple years ago for a no 4 and no5 set. Curious to hear if others have ideas on this one. it is a 4 inch head....the faces are clean underneath the rust...not much wear. ANd the logo is good. It is a quality hammer.
