Its actually a 36" long ratchet. The head is a replaceable Torque wrench head and yes I did also make the socketsIs the tool, on the right side of the picture, a breaker bar? Also... did you make those sockets?
That is so cool. Heirloom level awesome.Its actually a 36" long ratchet. The head is a replaceable Torque wrench head and yes I did also make the sockets
haha thanks man appreciate it! If I have kids one day I would love to pass them downThat is so cool. Heirloom level awesome.
Thanks for sharing.Its actually a 36" long ratchet. The head is a replaceable Torque wrench head and yes I did also make the sockets
Looks like it needs a wood wedge first.Okay, hammer experts.... this one is above my pay grade:
I've replaced lots of handles on regular-sized hammers, axes, mauls, mattocks, froes, but never on anything this small.
This is the original handle for this little upholstery hammer. The head was horribly loose so I pulled it off, gussied up the handle a bit, and wire-wheeled the rust off the head (which still needs a bit of work on the face - looks like somebody tried to chisel cement with it.)
I do not recall what sort of wedge came out of it.
I found only large (axe-sized) hardwood wedges up at ACE Hardware, a few of which I already have in a drawer in the garage (right next to the spare wicks for kerosene lamps - go figure.) I bought one of each of the smallest size steel wedges they had (shown below.)
I'm concerned that driving either of those wedges down into this handle is going to end badly.
What am I doing wrong? What do I put this back together with?
Those metal wedges are too long and will split the handle. I would consider shortening and re-profiling the smaller one, probably in half, and narrow the width a third or so, and install it like that.^ That makes sense. I have a great belt sander and lots of hardwood scraps. So.... do I still use the steel wedge? Or.... ?
The same to you, outlawmws.Happy New Years Eve all!

How about a 13 ozI'm looking for a nice 8 oz. claw hammer. Prefer domestic or European with a wood handle. Suggestions? Also a 12 oz. possibly.

Thanks Lugz-Grain of salt and all that, Arne, but I have never seen a script Plumb anchor brand logo hammer in the wild. That's a bit of a treasure.


Those claw hammers do look unique.Yes, that plumb script is different. I don't recall ever seeing one but I'm no expert so can't comment further.
I picked up a Dunlap and Cheney Claw hammer recently. The Cheney has the nail holder and I have another one so it's the Dunlap that I'm curious about. It looks old. The steel handle is about 1/8" thick where it goes into the handle. It extends down to about 2" from the bottom of the handle.
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Yes, that plumb script is different. I don't recall ever seeing one but I'm no expert so can't comment further.
I picked up a Dunlap and Cheney Claw hammer recently. The Cheney has the nail holder and I have another one so it's the Dunlap that I'm curious about. It looks old. The steel handle is about 1/8" thick where it goes into the handle. It extends down to about 2" from the bottom of the handle.![]()
Thanks AreBeeBee! wow, they sure look like the same maker. The question is who is the bigger fish, Bridgeport or Dunlap?
My handle looks like it's been starved for oil. I plan to linseed oil it and maybe wire brush the metal but that's it.
I'll check out the Bridgeport thread.
Yes. "True Temper" was an American Fork & Hoe TM, first use 1906. When American Fork & Hoe bought Kelly Axe Mfg Co in 1930, they used the branding "Kelly Works" (i.e., a subsidiary of AF&H...) for a few years, incorporated it with the True Temper brand, and then it was eventually dropped altogether.Axes branded "True Temper" appeared after Kelly Axe was acquired by American Fork & Hoe in 1930. Was the same true of Kelly hammers?
Just wonderin' and trying to understand who was doing what, when and where. Figured this was a good place to inquire.I'm not sure why you're asking about that, though.


