dolfans
Well-known member
Just wondering what is the difference and what are they used for the best and worst jobs? Thanks
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hammerdrill,impact driver,drill/driver
- Thread starter dolfans
- Start date
stercorarius
Well-known member
Drill driver just spins. Good for general drilling and some screwing applications. Hammer drill has the same functions as a drill/driver plus the addition of a mode that both spins and hammers. This is good for drilling in masonry and concrete. The impact driver just spins, put it spins I'm sharp impacts that allows you to drive a screw without twisting your arm. It is the best for driving screws and threaded fasteners and can be used for some minor drilling.
Drill driver just spins. Good for general drilling and some screwing applications. Hammer drill has the same functions as a drill/driver plus the addition of a mode that both spins and hammers. This is good for drilling in masonry and concrete. The impact driver just spins, put it spins I'm sharp impacts that allows you to drive a screw without twisting your arm. It is the best for driving screws and threaded fasteners and can be used for some minor drilling.
Thanks. I am going to build a storage shed after the holidays and thinking,planning etc on the items i need. So which one would i need? I have a drill that is a B and D electric and will buy a battery operated one soon
thooks
Well-known member
Sounds like you need the Ridgid 4 piece combo at HD for $300
engineer2
Well-known member
hammerdrill - used with masonry bits to drill holes in concrete or stone. It's amazing how fast they will drill. This is usually one of the settings on a good quality drill.
impact driver - Usually a 1/4" hex. Versatile tool that will drive small screws as well as take lug nuts off (with the right socket adapter). Handy because it will drive/remove stubborn Phillips screw without stripping the heads. Spins like a regular drill until resistance is encountered then the hammering action starts, much like an air impact. Can be used with 1/4" hex drill bits too. This is a must-have tool.
drill/driver - Some drills do not have a hammer drill setting. We all used to drive screws with these before impact drivers were invented. Fine if all you want to do is drill holes.
impact driver - Usually a 1/4" hex. Versatile tool that will drive small screws as well as take lug nuts off (with the right socket adapter). Handy because it will drive/remove stubborn Phillips screw without stripping the heads. Spins like a regular drill until resistance is encountered then the hammering action starts, much like an air impact. Can be used with 1/4" hex drill bits too. This is a must-have tool.
drill/driver - Some drills do not have a hammer drill setting. We all used to drive screws with these before impact drivers were invented. Fine if all you want to do is drill holes.
davethorik
Well-known member
Hammer drills are nice but they usually drive the cost up in cordless combo kits. If you routinely are drilling in crete and masonry, then they are a good idea. With hex shank drill bits, I basically only use my cordless drill to mix thin set or drywall mud. I have used it in a pinch to drill brick but it was not optimal.
If you forsee a lot of concrete/masonry drilling, probably a better idea to get a corded sds, you can usually find them used for a decent price. These you can use as a hammer drill or a mini jackhammer.
If you forsee a lot of concrete/masonry drilling, probably a better idea to get a corded sds, you can usually find them used for a decent price. These you can use as a hammer drill or a mini jackhammer.
stercorarius
Well-known member
Get yourself a combo kit that includes both an impact driver and a hammer drill. Plenty of them on sale this weekend. If you head over to toolguyd.com they have pretty well layed out some of the best deals on them.Thanks. I am going to build a storage shed after the holidays and thinking,planning etc on the items i need. So which one would i need? I have a drill that is a B and D electric and will buy a battery operated one soon
PhysicsDude
Well-known member
These days with combo sets so plentiful and cheap, get yourself a cordless drill and impact driver. Home Depot has a basic Ryobi set on sale for $100 with drill and impact. Crazy cheap, and Ryobi is a pretty good brand if you're just doing weekend work around the house.
Impact driver is for screwing, or can be used with sockets for working on cars and the like. Once you get used to using an impact driver for screwing in screws, you'll never want to use a drill for it. Impact drivers are much handier and easier to use. They're typically lighter, more compact also.
Its also pretty handy if you have to pre-drill holes for your screws to have both an impact and a drill, you can keep the drill bit in the drill and the phillips tip in the impact driver. Not having to switch the bit around really speeds things up.
Impact driver is for screwing, or can be used with sockets for working on cars and the like. Once you get used to using an impact driver for screwing in screws, you'll never want to use a drill for it. Impact drivers are much handier and easier to use. They're typically lighter, more compact also.
Its also pretty handy if you have to pre-drill holes for your screws to have both an impact and a drill, you can keep the drill bit in the drill and the phillips tip in the impact driver. Not having to switch the bit around really speeds things up.
jonesg
Well-known member
These days with combo sets so plentiful and cheap, get yourself a cordless drill and impact driver. Home Depot has a basic Ryobi set on sale for $100 with drill and impact. Crazy cheap, and Ryobi is a pretty good brand if you're just doing weekend work around the house.
Impact driver is for screwing, or can be used with sockets for working on cars and the like. Once you get used to using an impact driver for screwing in screws, you'll never want to use a drill for it. Impact drivers are much handier and easier to use. They're typically lighter, more compact also.
Its also pretty handy if you have to pre-drill holes for your screws to have both an impact and a drill, you can keep the drill bit in the drill and the phillips tip in the impact driver. Not having to switch the bit around really speeds things up.
I have Milwaukee m18 but I agree, most of the consumer brands are very nice today.
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
I have Milwaukee M12 Impact driver. I'd have to say its my favorite Milwaukee cordless and gets the most use.
After you use an impact driver to drive deck screws you will wonder how you lived without one.
After you use an impact driver to drive deck screws you will wonder how you lived without one.
IndyGarage
Well-known member
Hammer drills are nice but they usually drive the cost up in cordless combo kits. If you routinely are drilling in crete and masonry, then they are a good idea. With hex shank drill bits, I basically only use my cordless drill to mix thin set or drywall mud. I have used it in a pinch to drill brick but it was not optimal.
If you forsee a lot of concrete/masonry drilling, probably a better idea to get a corded sds, you can usually find them used for a decent price. These you can use as a hammer drill or a mini jackhammer.
This - those stupid hammering functions they put on cordless drills are useless.
If you need to drill a hole in concrete - get an SDS hammer.
Now an impactor is a totally different tool and in my opinion, the most useful cordless tool you can buy.
engineer2
Well-known member
If you are drilling holes in concrete all day, then use the proper SDS hammer drill, but for homeowner use, a drill/hammer drill is fine. Might depend on the brand and how sharp you carbide bit is. My Makita XPH07 easily goes through concrete in hammer mode.This - those stupid hammering functions they put on cordless drills are useless.
JohnDeere1
Banned
Just bought a ridgid gen5x set of 7 tools basically the 5 piece set with a gen 4 impact and multi tool extra love the saw and the gen 5 impact it takes off lug nuts easily that I put on with my snap on mg325 3/8 impact it's a beast and the drill is nice and lights up great tools paid $175 for all at a pawn shop. Same day I bought a Hilti drill and impact driver set for $150 from the first pawn shop I'm stuck with it no returns should have waited but it was a good price and has case and 3 batteries Hilti is in a league if thier own very nice but not homeowner or diyer tools impact also took off lug nuts tried today awsome.
ryan20021982
Well-known member
drill/driver - Some drills do not have a hammer drill setting. We all used to drive screws with these before impact drivers were invented. Fine if all you want to do is drill holes.
Really? So since impact drivers were made all drill/ drivers lost the capability to put screws in? Worst advice in this thread.
All you need is a good drill/driver and if you want to spend the money you can get the combo with the impact driver. I have multiple of each and trust me if you going to build 1 shed and then use it around the house after you don't need to spend the money on both. Impact drivers are a pain to drill holes with since you are required to get bits with a hex shank so you almost need both if you want the hex driver.
engineer2
Well-known member
I never said that.Really? So since impact drivers were made all drill/ drivers lost the capability to put screws in?
Impact drivers just do a better job. I no longer use my drill to drive screws. I suppose if you can't afford both, just get a drill. I've installed thousands of screws, nuts and bolts with a cordless drill before impact drivers came on the market, but you can't beat building something with an impact driver and then using the same tool when you need to rotate the tires on your car.
bcradio
Well-known member
This - those stupid hammering functions they put on cordless drills are useless.
If you need to drill a hole in concrete - get an SDS hammer.
Now an impactor is a totally different tool and in my opinion, the most useful cordless tool you can buy.
Actually they are very useful, but they are not for drilling holes in concrete. They are more for drilling in brick, block and other masonry items where an SDS rotary hammer will chip and break them and where a regular drill won't get through them.
bcradio
Well-known member
Really? So since impact drivers were made all drill/ drivers lost the capability to put screws in? Worst advice in this thread.
All you need is a good drill/driver and if you want to spend the money you can get the combo with the impact driver. I have multiple of each and trust me if you going to build 1 shed and then use it around the house after you don't need to spend the money on both. Impact drivers are a pain to drill holes with since you are required to get bits with a hex shank so you almost need both if you want the hex driver.
How little experience you have with all of this shows big time.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Really? So since impact drivers were made all drill/ drivers lost the capability to put screws in? Worst advice in this thread.
All you need is a good drill/driver and if you want to spend the money you can get the combo with the impact driver. I have multiple of each and trust me if you going to build 1 shed and then use it around the house after you don't need to spend the money on both. Impact drivers are a pain to drill holes with since you are required to get bits with a hex shank so you almost need both if you want the hex driver.
I would say yours is the worse advise. Before starting my house build I would go months without touch a drill, use an impact driver every other day. Not saying a drill/driver is useless, an impactor is just that great. Driving 3" construction screws ***** with anything but an impact.
davethorik
Well-known member
Actually they are very useful, but they are not for drilling holes in concrete. They are more for drilling in brick, block and other masonry items where an SDS rotary hammer will chip and break them and where a regular drill won't get through them.
I was actually surprised, used a Milwaukee M18 brushless hammer drill to drill 5/8 holes in a concrete slab, using a 3ah battery it would drill about 5 or 6 holes approx. 4-5" deep per bar of battery life. However we only had to drill 15 holes. It did get pretty warm, though. An SDS would have been ideal, but we were in an area with no electrical service.
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
I would second the 4 piece Ridgid brushless kit.
I buy Milwaukee but have bought others Ridgid tools and used them with no complaints.
Regular drill- totally fine for wood and metal
Cordless Hammer drill- will drill through concrete and masonry but not my first or second choice.
Corded hammer drill- cheap, plentiful, will do concrete easier.
SDS- Hammer. Drills concrete cleanly and easily. Runs chiseled attachments with power and finesse. Almost essential for tile demolition.
The higher end cordless combos will usually include a hammer drill. To me, it's just one more thing to out on the box advertising. A corded porter cable for $49 smokes my m18 fuel. My $59 ryobi cordless SDS smokes the porter cable... maybe tl;dr...
I buy Milwaukee but have bought others Ridgid tools and used them with no complaints.
Regular drill- totally fine for wood and metal
Cordless Hammer drill- will drill through concrete and masonry but not my first or second choice.
Corded hammer drill- cheap, plentiful, will do concrete easier.
SDS- Hammer. Drills concrete cleanly and easily. Runs chiseled attachments with power and finesse. Almost essential for tile demolition.
The higher end cordless combos will usually include a hammer drill. To me, it's just one more thing to out on the box advertising. A corded porter cable for $49 smokes my m18 fuel. My $59 ryobi cordless SDS smokes the porter cable... maybe tl;dr...
kctyphoon
Banned
If it hasn't been said clearly -
A drill driver is a drill... people used them to also drive screws for decades. Drills became "drill/drivers" after the impact drivers became popular.. its to help label the tools that "yes, you can still install a screw with this"
A hammer drill, is a drill just like above, that has an additional function to help drill concrete and such. You can turn the function on or off. It hammers DOWN, like you'd hit a chisel, towards what you're drilling into.. it gives absolutely no advantage for driving screws, and hammerdrills are typically used for smaller holes in concrete or brick.
Bigger holes require a rotary hammer drill, which is a similar tool but hits harder and drills slower. The more popular ones come in two sizes. SDS Plus, and SDS Max. SOME - not all- of those drills will come with a rotation lockout feature so you can use a chisel bit, and the "drill" will only hammer, and not actually drill.. you don't need to worry about this..
An impact driver is like an impact wrench you'd see people use to install or remove lug nuts on your car, only it accepts bits for screws and some nut drivers instead of JUST sockets, and will generally be less powerful than an impact wrench. It hammers clockwise or counter clockwise. It helps drive screws, bolts, lags, faster but without twisting your wrist, which is the real advantage of an impact. A hammer drill and impact driver are completely different tools. Impacts hammer in the direction you're twisting the fastener, while drills will hammer down like a mini jack hammer.
Spend some time on YouTube. If your buying your first cordless tools, it's better to spend a little more and buy a drill and impact driver combo kit. You get more for your money. With the sales running at Home Depot, now is the time for this.. any brand will do, but more money typically gets you better tools. You don't need to buy the best that's out there though. Milwaukee, dewalt, makita, Ridgid, or even Ryobi will do what you need. The more expensive brands are generally contractor grade and will last longer, be stronger... but even the better brands makes different tiers you'd need to get familiar with. Ryobi is definitely the most for your money though, followed by Ridgid. Ridgid is a pretty solid compromise between homeowner and professional grade tools.
A drill driver is a drill... people used them to also drive screws for decades. Drills became "drill/drivers" after the impact drivers became popular.. its to help label the tools that "yes, you can still install a screw with this"
A hammer drill, is a drill just like above, that has an additional function to help drill concrete and such. You can turn the function on or off. It hammers DOWN, like you'd hit a chisel, towards what you're drilling into.. it gives absolutely no advantage for driving screws, and hammerdrills are typically used for smaller holes in concrete or brick.
Bigger holes require a rotary hammer drill, which is a similar tool but hits harder and drills slower. The more popular ones come in two sizes. SDS Plus, and SDS Max. SOME - not all- of those drills will come with a rotation lockout feature so you can use a chisel bit, and the "drill" will only hammer, and not actually drill.. you don't need to worry about this..
An impact driver is like an impact wrench you'd see people use to install or remove lug nuts on your car, only it accepts bits for screws and some nut drivers instead of JUST sockets, and will generally be less powerful than an impact wrench. It hammers clockwise or counter clockwise. It helps drive screws, bolts, lags, faster but without twisting your wrist, which is the real advantage of an impact. A hammer drill and impact driver are completely different tools. Impacts hammer in the direction you're twisting the fastener, while drills will hammer down like a mini jack hammer.
Spend some time on YouTube. If your buying your first cordless tools, it's better to spend a little more and buy a drill and impact driver combo kit. You get more for your money. With the sales running at Home Depot, now is the time for this.. any brand will do, but more money typically gets you better tools. You don't need to buy the best that's out there though. Milwaukee, dewalt, makita, Ridgid, or even Ryobi will do what you need. The more expensive brands are generally contractor grade and will last longer, be stronger... but even the better brands makes different tiers you'd need to get familiar with. Ryobi is definitely the most for your money though, followed by Ridgid. Ridgid is a pretty solid compromise between homeowner and professional grade tools.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
If it hasn't been said clearly -
A drill driver is a drill... people used them to also drive screws for decades. Drills became "drill/drivers" after the impact drivers became popular.. its to help label the tools that "yes, you can still install a screw with this"
Drill/driver has an adjustable clutch that will slip when the bit reaches is setting. Or it can be put in the drill position which locks out the clutch
A drill(somewhat uncommon now days) has no clutch.
There are actual drivers which are a drill/driver with the 1/4" hex bit chuck like an impactor
Scenicruiser
Member
Hammer drills are nice but they usually drive the cost up in cordless combo kits. If you routinely are drilling in crete and masonry, then they are a good idea. With hex shank drill bits, I basically only use my cordless drill to mix thin set or drywall mud. I have used it in a pinch to drill brick but it was not optimal.
If you forsee a lot of concrete/masonry drilling, probably a better idea to get a corded sds, you can usually find them used for a decent price. These you can use as a hammer drill or a mini jackhammer.
I drill, mostly, into tile and stone, corded hammer drills are a bit too powerful and will crack the material. I just made the switch to brushless,(Makita XPH07) and that even makes me nervous.
ryan20021982
Well-known member
How little experience you have with all of this shows big time.
Ok well please educate me how people ran screws in before impact drivers? I never said they weren't better at it I said they are not needed to run screws in.