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hand vacuum pumps

plinker

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
4,286
Location
Northern Wi
Looking to pick one up for things like testing Ford hubs and such, dont need one for brake bleeding, I have other stuff for that.

I'm sure Mityvac is probably on the higher end of these, My question is for as simple as these are are the more inexpensive ones complete junk? There isnt much price difference with these two until you get to the large kit from Mityvac from the looks of it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMDPBM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQYUA/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Is there something better? Or a different brand to look at?
 
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decableguy2000

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
650
I have the MityVac 8500 it does both vacuum and pressure. I also have a harbor freight one the has worked for years. The mityvac is repairable.
 

Fedwrench

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
14,951
Location
Valley of the sun
I don't think Mityvac is as good as it used to be but, that's just my opinion. I have a real old silverline kit that's been rebuilt more than once. Quality wise, it seems much more robust than a newer kit we have at work. The bottom line is that if you're using once in awhile for vacuum testing, I think probably the ones from other brands will do just as well.
 

Showkey

"MEMBER EMERITUS"
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
8,638
Location
Wausau WI
Sucking fuel, brake fluid, antifreeze, oil, solvents etc into the pumps are primary cause of future failures. Avoid that …….the $40 kit with adapters, fitting etc will work just fine.
 

Old hand

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2022
Messages
16
We have both silver line and cheapies in my shop . I guess if doesn't hurt as bad when someone ***** brake fluid into a cheap one and leaves it to corrode.
 

qqzj

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
3,747
I picked up the $73 MityVac kit from Craigslist for $20. Maybe you can too.
 

HomeTheaterMan

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Joined
Apr 3, 2016
Messages
493
I have the Mightyvac 8500 that I bought a few months ago. I did have the issue of the roll pin that holds the handle on wanting to come out. It started chewing up the handle. A search online revealed this is super common. I ended up putting some super glue on it as some instructions suggested. Other than this minor issue, it works very well.
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
The fancy kit or none fancy one, the gauge are cheap breaks easy pump still works fine on those as long as you don’t **** the liquid into the pump itself. Or replace the gauge with something better NOS USA made from eBay. I would just buy the middle of the road one with adapter that you needed, otherwise a cheapie one for $30.
 

VolvoRyan

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Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
1,339
Location
Kentuckiana, USA
I bought HF's store brand a year ago. It's actually been pretty good.... with the exception that the plastic vacuum release button fell off, like, instantly. There's still the metal shaft of the "plunger" that you can push on to release the vacuum. Not ideal...

-Ryan
 
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Snapped-off

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,728
Location
Indiana
I've got a mityvac 8500. It's only been used with turbos.

I'm sure the OEM would work fine too for hubs.
 

Mechanical Noise

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Joined
Apr 25, 2014
Messages
2,635
Location
Southeast of O'Hare
I had the plastic mityvac for years. Never had any problem with the seals or check valves but it cracked a few times and I epoxied it back together. I got the metal one at Harbor Freight and I think the HF one is better in almost every way.

The HF vacuum pump doesn't do pressure, however.
 

Xcursion88

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
785
Get the metal mighty vac....(8500) or YA4000 (Blue-Point)
Same item...

There a ton of uses for it.....
 

toplessHO

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2014
Messages
14,008
Location
central florida
I don't think Mityvac is as good as it used to be but, that's just my opinion. I have a real old silverline kit that's been rebuilt more than once. Quality wise, it seems much more robust than a newer kit we have at work. The bottom line is that if you're using once in awhile for vacuum testing, I think probably the ones from other brands will do just as well.
I have 2 broken Mityvacs
the plastic ones are junk.
I went with Snapon or find a metal mityvac
 

Xcursion88

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Messages
785
What do you need vacuum for when checking hubs?
Vacuum actuated hubs...

OP specifically mentioned Ford who uses vacuum actuated hubs.
Up until 2004(I think)...Ford's used vacuum to engage the hubs. You selected 4wd and vacuum would then be sent to the hubs to engage each individual front axle.
This was a dumb idea since it doesn't take much to lose a vacuum seal at each hub. The diaphragm ripping...the vacuum lines cracking, vacuum itself not adequate reaching the hub. Perhaps dirt in the lines.... and absolutely no warning to the druver. The driver thinks 4wd is good to go. Not the case whatsoever.
Regardless you needed all things vacuum related working properly for a working 4wd system.

After 2004 they reversed this approach and did it in reverse. Now you need vacuum to keep the hubs disengaged. If you hit the 4wd button or knob it ceases the vacuum supply to the hubs and they lock to each front axle.
So after 2004 if you lose vacuum to the hubs you lose the unlock feature of the hub thus engaging them to the axle. No vacuum hub automatically is engaged.
Much better idea because you never lose 4wd unknowingly...atleast not at the hubs.

(Super Duty trucks) use a manual hub with an auto feature. In auto mode the hub is locked/unlocked via vacuum. You can override that system by moving the hub dial to the "locked" position avoiding any vacuum irregularities.

A mighty vac is very handy diagnosing a Ford hub issue.
 

Milton Shaw

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
Messages
4,835
Some Ford hub locks are vacuum actuated, my 03 expedition is. If if you have a leak, it will want to lock them. Had to replace mine.
My 04 expedition did too. It also had a hose from the front wheel to just around the battery box that was not connected to anything under the hood. I looked for several hours trying to find what that hose hooked to. Finally found a vacuum hose diagram for the front hubs that did show that hose not being connected anywhere. With the hubs cycling every time the engine started that insured that they would work when needed. On that hose looking I even removed the battery and vacuum cannister from behind the battery looking for its connection.
 
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