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Handheld torch for bolts

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DakotaMan

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After reading for a while on here about using a torch to heat bolts that are rusty, I want to give it a try. I am trying to remove a seat bolt, which I believe is probably coated in blue thread locker. To date, I've broken two torx sockets trying to remove this stubborn bolt.

What I'm looking for is a kind that I can use a squeeze trigger to turn on and off. The ones I've seen on amazon lead me to feel that you ignite it and then move to the workplace. I don't really trust myself to not knock it into something, drop it, etc so I'm thinking something that auto ignited with a squeeze trigger would be best. When you release the trigger, it would cut out.

The smaller, the better. At some point, I'll have to use this to get to my manifold bolts on my F-150 if that helps.

I feel comfortable with using either propane or MAPP....or a universal?
 
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ItsNemo

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Those seat bolts, use torx impact bits in a powerful enough impact driver...I've never had good luck with using a ratchet on those because of the awkward angles. No need for a torch really, especially on the interior of a vehicle.

Manifold, spray em down with penetrating fluid for a few days in advance.
 
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Firebrick43

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Problem with the air/fuel torches is the wide non focused flame. In some places that's ok but many bolts have enough mass and there are things nearby you want a more focused flame of a oxy fuel torch and welding tips.

As an alternate how about an induction nut heater?
 
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Tallpilot

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Firebrick43 said:
Problem with the air/fuel torches is the wide non focused flame. In some places that's ok but many bolts have enough mass and there are things nearby you want a more focused flame of a oxy fuel torch and welding tips.

As an alternate how about an induction nut heater?
Click to expand...

The exhaust manifold bolts should heat up well enough with a Benzomatic handheld but I think it would be quite dangerous inside the cabin. Those seat bolts really shouldn't be that bad.

An induction heater would work nicely but they are pretty expensive for one job.

To the OP:

I don't mean to insult you but are you sure they are Torx and not Torx plus? It is pretty easy to mistake the type and a loose fitting wrong size bit will break. Once you are sure of the size you can order the heavy disassembly version from Snap-on. A single won't be too expensive and free shipping from the website.
 
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Finky198

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I have a Benzomatic TS8000 with a 4' hose that i run on propane. I use almost daily in the shop... yeah the little torches are slow, but they work fine for heating a nut or bolt although that's about the limit of them... I refill my own tanks as well...

I haven't bothered with map pro as the minimal heat diff vs propane
doesn't justify the substantial cost increase.
 
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rlitman

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Firebrick43 said:
Problem with the air/fuel torches is the wide non focused flame. In some places that's ok but many bolts have enough mass and there are things nearby you want a more focused flame of a oxy fuel torch and welding tips.

As an alternate how about an induction nut heater?
Click to expand...

+1 An air/fuel torch puts out so much heat over so side an area that you can easily expect to melt the carpet and burn the paint around that bolt over an area too wide for your hand to cover, if you use ample heat on the bolt.

A cutting torch oxy/acetylene tip might have sufficiently concentrated heat, but will also likely set everything around it on fire.

If you have to heat this, an induction heater is the only relatively safe option.
 
OP
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DakotaMan

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To my knowledge, they are normal torx. I can access the bottom of the bolt from underneath the truck with plenty of clearance so I won't be using a torch inside the cabin.

I've looked into a heat inductor tool and they are just a little more than I'd like to spend. Although it's probably one of those things you find a use for once you have it and after saving a couple headaches, it's worth it.

My issue with the ace/oxy setups is storing all the stuff and initial outlay. Honestly, I'd probably opt for the heat inductor tool.

I've already broke two bits on the same bolt using an impact rated torx bit. I gave up with the impact as it wasn't budging and then used a ratchet and that's when the bit broke. The other bolts came out just fine.
 
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DakotaMan

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Finky198 said:
I have a Benzomatic TS8000 with a 4' hose that i run on propane. I use almost daily in the shop... yeah the little torches are slow, but they work fine for heating a nut or bolt although that's about the limit of them... I refill my own tanks as well...

I haven't bothered with map pro as the minimal heat diff vs propane
doesn't justify the substantial cost increase.
Click to expand...

This was my plan. Although I'd probably opt for the camping canisters. I've also read that they've changed MAPP where it isn't as hot as it used to be, thereby me understanding the use of propane.
 
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rlitman

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DakotaMan said:
...My issue with the ace/oxy setups is storing all the stuff and initial outlay. Honestly, I'd probably opt for the heat inductor tool...
Click to expand...

Interesting point.

Oxy/acetylene is quite handy, and there's a reason I own quite a lot of oxy/fuel gear and not a mini-ductor. However, if you're ONLY heating bolts, the mini-ductor is cheaper option.

A heat gun may get the bolt hot enough to soften loctite. But that has an even more diffuse heat pattern.
 
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Finky198

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DakotaMan said:
This was my plan. Although I'd probably opt for the camping canisters. I've also read that they've changed MAPP where it isn't as hot as it used to be, thereby me understanding the use of propane.
Click to expand...

I like using the camp canister as well at the tall ones. but the camp one are nicer as they stay up right, they make a brass adapter that fill them from a 15, 20, 40lb tanks... I can refill them about 3-5 times before there worn out... cheap and effective...

As for Mapp gas I try to grab the old stuff at yard sales when ever I can.
 
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DakotaMan

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marineman said:
Got a welder? Weld a nut on it so you don't have to worry about bits and its pinpoint precision heat

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Click to expand...

No welder...but it's in a similar vein as the torch. When I bought this place we were misled about being able to have a shop. Both agents said yeah until we found out about restrictive covenants after the sale.
 
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milwaukeephil

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Most smaller torches take forever to heat up a bolt... if you can even get that hot. I've mentioned it before in other threads, but I LOVE my Smith Little Torch. Hooks right up to your oxy/acetylene regulators and makes a beautiful little flame that can really pinpoint the bolt. The added benefit is that your gas bottles will last FOREVER (almost).

cyberweld_2269_10782453.gif

Jewelry_Tools_Smith_Little_Torch_jewelry_soldering_torches_jpg_640x640.jpg
 
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DakotaMan

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marineman said:
Based on what he's said in the thread I'm assuming he's pretty green to oxy acetalyne so i would plan on replacing the bolt either way.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Click to expand...

Spot on. I've actually never used a torch of any kind, aside from a tiki torch. I generally try to learn where I can cause the least damage and move from there, even if it costs me more in the long run.
 
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milwaukeephil

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DirtyRat

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Use a large punch on the center of the torx bolt and get some aggression out. Whether this is simply placebo or not, it has seemed to aide in freeing up stuck bolts in the past.

I have used both oxy acetylene and simple little MAPP gas rigs too. Both can be affective. Oxy is much much faster and yields better results, but MAPP has undeniably gotten me out of a pickle before.

Torx seat bolts which thread out the bottom of the car can absolutely cause a headache. Give it some whacks with a hammer, a bit of coaxing heat from below and it will come loose.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
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MoonRise

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pssst, just a reminder

There is no more MAPP gas. The one (and only) plant in North America shut down ~10 years ago.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

Unless you find some old cylinders (garage sale, etc).

All the 'new' yellow gas cylinders are labeled MaP (or something similar, like MAP/Pro), which contain NO actual MAPP gas and are mostly propylene. Nothing 'wrong' with propylene, except that it only burns about 10% hotter than propane and is being sold at ~3x the cost of a propane cylinder.

And what I've noticed a lot is that '1 lb' propane cylinders are now often only 14 oz propane cylinders. Same price as the 'full' 16 oz cylinders, which means that is an instant 12% price increase. Grrr.

Back to the OP, about the only 'instant light' torches are the air-propane ones. Handy tools, and some can put out a goodly amount of heat (the mentioned TS8000 torch is about the highest 'powered' box-store propane torch you can get. I have one. :D It's handy.)

But to heat a decent sized bolt, stuck into some decent sized metal (a frame, or an engine block, etc) it will NOT work all that well.

Too diffuse of a flame (good for soldering some copper piping, where you want a 'softer' flame to heat the entire piece of pipe and the fitting up to soldering temperature, instead of an intense pinpoint flame which can melt the pipe or fitting).

Oxy-fuel is the way to go for an intense pinpoint flame on steel. Heats the bolt/nut red hot in a few seconds, done.

IMHO. :D
 
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skruft

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Air-acet plumbers torches often show up at garage sales and flea markets.
 
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MBfreak

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I have used a transformer type cheap welder and a carbon rod.
Clean the contact area of the fastener where you plan to hold the carbon rod.
Hook everything up and press the carbon rod against the fastener.
Have a buddy set the welder at high and switch on.
The carbon rod limits the current and the fastener will turn red in a very short time.
Shade tree induction heater, works well.

Ola
 
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RPH

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MBfreak said:
I have used a transformer type cheap welder and a carbon rod.
Clean the contact area of the fastener where you plan to hold the carbon rod.
Hook everything up and press the carbon rod against the fastener.
Have a buddy set the welder at high and switch on.
The carbon rod limits the current and the fastener will turn red in a very short time.
Shade tree induction heater, works well.

Ola
Click to expand...

Ah, that’s not Induction, that’s conduction. And you’re right it will work well for this application. Conduction heating is applied quite often to steering racks in the gear tooth area. This allows hardening of the tooth and tooth root area while not heating the back side of the rack. Good idea for his problem though.
 
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