Hanging a Hot Dawg????

[Teikas Dad]

I'm trying to decide where to mount my Hot Dawg heater in my shop. Shop is 20' X 20' square. My original plan was to hang it centered on one of the two outside walls (other two walls are insulated and against an existing barn which is also insulated.). With the heater facing the center of the shop I was wondering about cold areas on the edges, so I came up with Plan B...hang it in a corner facing the center of the shop. I figured I'd get a better heat spread that way.

I know I can get a 45 degree elbow for the vent pipe so that's not an issue. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to mount it to the ceiling. Ceiling is 5/8" drywall attached to 24" OC trusses (with R30 insulation).

Do I go with a couple of Unistruts across the trusses at 45 degree angles, or mount a piece of 3/4" plywood to the ceiling and attach it to that, or what?
Looking for some ideas or suggestions based on what some of you have done. If anyone has any photos, those would be greatly appreciated.

 

[foss]

I put some 2x4's over the trusses at the 45 degree and hung it with threaded rod . As the ceiling is 15', I brought it down a couple feet.
I also put up a ceiling fan that really helps distribute the air.

 

[regguy1]

I'm trying to decide where to mount my Hot Dawg heater in my shop. Shop is 20' X 20' square. My original plan was to hang it centered on one of the two outside walls (other two walls are insulated and against an existing barn which is also insulated.). With the heater facing the center of the shop I was wondering about cold areas on the edges, so I came up with Plan B...hang it in a corner facing the center of the shop. I figured I'd get a better heat spread that way.

I know I can get a 45 degree elbow for the vent pipe so that's not an issue. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to mount it to the ceiling. Ceiling is 5/8" drywall attached to 24" OC trusses (with R30 insulation).

Do I go with a couple of Unistruts across the trusses at 45 degree angles, or mount a piece of 3/4" plywood to the ceiling and attach it to that, or what?
Looking for some ideas or suggestions based on what some of you have done. If anyone has any photos, those would be greatly appreciated.

I made a template from the box, punched out where the holes should be, positioned the template where I wanted the heater and drilled the holes through the drywall, then I went in the attic and cut 2x4s to fit between the trusses and lag bolted the heater to the 2x4s. Now the heater looks as if it's bolted directly to the drywall but has solid support above. I screwed the 2x4s to the trusses above. It wasn't to bad to do.

Where did you end up buying it ? DJ's online ?

 

[framer]

I thing you can hang it about any where you want. It it will heat your shop well. Good luck.

 

[Moldy Oldy]

My heater went right up against the ceiling dry wall with the required one inch space..I used the brackets that were supplied..I will also mount a three speed fan opposite the heater to aid in circulation of air..

 

[Mickey O]

The makers of these heaters must have conspired with the owners of Superdawg because every time I see a post about that heater (and there have been several) I want a Superdawg, I want one now.

 

[Ramones1234]

I mounted mine the same as foss. I only have an 8 foot ceiling but because I chose to direct vent it straight out the wall I had to drop it low enough to get the right slope on the vent out the wall and below the garage roof eave. Something to think about if you are venting it out the side wall.

 

[ItBurnsWhenIPee]

The makers of these heaters must have conspired with the owners of Superdawg because every time I see a post about that heater (and there have been several) I want a Superdawg, I want one now.

Great.

Now I want one too. Thanks a lot jerk!

 

[danski0224]

I wouldn't use plywood- potential fire hazard if something happens to the heater.

Anchor 7/8" Unistrut to the truss. The square strut plate washers and Spax Torx head lags work nicely.

Use strut nuts, plate washers and 3/8 nuts to anchor 3/8" threaded rod.

Hang the heater from the rods.

If the heater has external angle bracket attachment points, you could attach the heater directly to the Unistrut on the ceiling... but that will transmit vibration noise to the area above.

 

[TheShrine]

Thanks a lot jerk!

Be careful..................

 

[johnnywhale]

I made a two square tube shelf that spanned the corners / mounted to the walls, I did not have convenient beams to attach to with a hip roof. It looks very sanitary.

 

[Thump_rrr]

I do this for a living.
I would put 3/8" threaded rod through the ceiling. Then run (2) 1 1/4" pieces of black iron pipe across 4 rafters and hang it with swivel loop (teardrop) pipe hangers.
Always check local codes for piping since the yellow flex lines are no longer approved in some locations.
I prefer piping with black iron pipe directly into the unit. Don't forget to make a drip pocket where the line drops and have a safety shutoff (ball) valve and service switch within 3' of the appliance.
If you vent upwards always put a cleanout tee at the base of the chimney.

Always read all installation instructions carefully since the same heater may have different installation requirements if it is in a residential or commercial location.

 

[burtonbl]

I installed mine today !!
I will upload some pics

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks Thumprrr - I like the idea of using the pipe as hangers. Never would have thought of that way of doing it.
Burton - Pics Please!

 

[Thump_rrr]

Now that I think about it the Hot Dawg is small enough that it probably only uses 2 threaded rods which would only require 1 piece of pipe.

 

[AV8OR]

Thump_rrr,

Does the "drip pocket" need to be ever drained? If so how often?

 

[burtonbl]

Here are my pics
Thows great heat !

 

[sealer]

I had to do a double take on your black pipe Burton. For a second there I thought you used PVC, lol. Nice clean job!

 

[burtonbl]

I had to do a double take on your black pipe Burton. For a second there I thought you used PVC, lol. Nice clean job!

Now that would be funny

2 coats of primer and white on the black iron

MY freind who has his own gas buisness sold me the unit and did the install
We layed it out during the building phase so it was real clean and straight !
and the vent out the back is minimal in lengh


Works great !

 

[Teikas Dad]

Very nice Burton!

 

[Thump_rrr]

Thump_rrr,

Does the "drip pocket" need to be ever drained? If so how often?

No but it will catch any debris or cutting oil from the threading of the pipes.

 

[Thump_rrr]

Beautiful installation.
I'm nitpicking but there should be a drip pocket on the lowest point of the line.
Turn the last elbow downwards and add a ball valve then a tee with the gas line coming horizontally off of the odd leg.
Add a 3" ****** and cap to the bottom and you have your drip pocket.

The drip leg should be downstream from the shut-off valve. As per code requirement IFGC 408.4.

 

[jumpingryan]

I do this for a living.
I would put 3/8" threaded rod through the ceiling. Then run (2) 1 1/4" pieces of black iron pipe across 4 rafters and hang it with swivel loop (teardrop) pipe hangers.
Always check local codes for piping since the yellow flex lines are no longer approved in some locations.
I prefer piping with black iron pipe directly into the unit. Don't forget to make a drip pocket where the line drops and have a safety shutoff (ball) valve and service switch within 3' of the appliance.
If you vent upwards always put a cleanout tee at the base of the chimney.

Always read all installation instructions carefully since the same heater may have different installation requirements if it is in a residential or commercial location.

What do you mean by "service switch"? Do you mean an electrical switch has to be within 3 feet?

Thanks

Ryan