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Hanging sheetrock from these rafter ties?

FredWanaker

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if there is to be no engineering, it probably makes more sense to just add ceiling joists that are dimensional enough for the span, and load between the narrowest side top plates, which appear ready to accept them in the photos.
 
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ddawg16

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Wow....good thing we are not talking about PVC airlines.

16" OC? Hang 5/8" drywall and be done with it.

I'd look for 12' lengths to save on seams

About the only thing I would do extra is add bolts where the rafter ties connect to the rafters.....nails don't have a lot of shear strength. Bolts would lock in those rafter ties to prevent them from 'creeping'.
 

egdede

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instead of trying to guess which answer is correct, just hire a local PE to take a quick look. They will either say yes, no, or for $350 I'll do a quick solution for you. Since you aren't making other changes, there isn't a lot of work for a PE to do. Then apply for a permit to convert the space and you'll have an engineering drawing in case anyone wants to see it. Last time I had something like this it cost me $200 to pay a PE to do a quick drawing and stamp it.

If you have access to the original blueprints when it was built, as it look fairly new, it may already have the loading calculations on it which would give you a definitive answer.
I couldn't get a PE for a quick look at a skylight I boxed for less than $500 in Los Angeles 20 years ago. Then, once he saw it was OK, he wanted $500 more to stamp MY drawing.
 

FredWanaker

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I couldn't get a PE for a quick look at a skylight I boxed for less than $500 in Los Angeles 20 years ago. Then, once he saw it was OK, he wanted $500 more to stamp MY drawing.
maybe look harder? I had to cut a truss to add a ceiling fan. Permit required a PE's stamp for the truss cut change. $200 and two days later I had a drawing. Guy even came to the house to look at it in person. The places to ask are the contractors who do the work. Lots of times they will know someone who takes small, quick and easy jobs. The issue for the OP is that the city may want a permit to enclose a wall. They will check electrical, insulation, venting and even drywall screw placement, taping etc.. I recently redid a bathroom and the city wanted to check that the screws were X inches apart. Fortunately they knew the drywall contractor well, and I also know drywall, so they let me be the inspector on that part of the job and waived it. My next door neighbor who also did a bathroom at the same time, the city went over every step with them two or three times because they tried to do it themselves, without really knowing how so it took months and many visits before they got signed off.
 
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Showkey

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It will be fine………

 

billconner

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Everyone is missing the fact that they are or can be supported from the ridge. That cuts the 14' span in HALF.
I didn't miss that and pointed it out in another forum a day or two before he posted exact same post and pictures here.

The code question is about span of a ceiling joist. I'm not sure the tables anticpated support between rafters. The prescriptive codes - IRC - does not recognize it IMHO, nor wood hangers. Simply not in the code, so therefore it needs a Registered Design Professional - an architect or engineer - to do it that way. My opinion is with midspan support the span is half the length, but some building officials seem to disagree So it becomes a choice of a RDP and perhaps more short verticals, perhaps with screws, OR 2x6s or 2x8s, depending on actual dimension and species. I'd probably go the replacement route - path of least resistance - and remove existing 2x4s and strong back for reuse, but maybe not if RDP and less material was much less overall.
 
OP
C

clonedad

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Nope, not happenin'!
2X4 ceiling joists/16"o/c have a max span of 10-9 for SP and SPF (which yours appear to be). The strong back/catwalk is to keep the joists in an upright/straight orientation. Any connection from the strongback to the ridge "may" help with keeping the ridge level- but that it. All the connections I'll presume are just nails, and are most likely in shear. The ridge itself is to support the roof- not roof and ceiling.

If they were 2X6, the span would be no problem- provided they a supported on each end by bearing directly on the wall.
How would you (or anyone else reading this!) suggest beefing up the situation?

I’ve had a couple folks suggest just adding 2x6’s directly underneath them.

Or maybe instead, just connecting the 2x4’s to the rafters with webbings in a truss like fashion?
 
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Dig Doug

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the span between the red marks is to long, so add 2 - 2x4’s supports up to the 2x8 (blue marks) basically your just shortening the span with a 2nd support up to the ridge 2x8.

If that span between the red marks is 14 ft and you add 2 supports up to the 2x8. split the span equally you would have 3 sections of 4ft 8inch that’s way over kill to support drywall and insulation

measure in 4-5ft from the 2x8 / 2x4 intersection @ each end and add another 2x4 up to the 2x8, it’s probably going to be 24 to 34 inch long then use a structural screw like a 3inch T25 & screw 2 screws at each mounting location. Or a 16penny nail out of nail gun.
F7D854B7-0E16-4A76-AABF-7EEF63AC0734.jpeg
 
OP
C

clonedad

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the span between the red marks is to long, so add 2 - 2x4’s supports up to the 2x8 (blue marks) basically your just shortening the span with a 2nd support up to the ridge 2x8.

If that span between the red marks is 14 ft and you add 2 supports up to the 2x8. split the span equally you would have 3 sections of 4ft 8inch that’s way over kill to support drywall and insulation

measure in 4-5ft from the 2x8 / 2x4 intersection @ each end and add another 2x4 up to the 2x8, it’s probably going to be 24 to 34 inch long then use a structural screw like a 3inch T25 & screw 2 screws at each mounting location. Or a 16penny nail out of nail gun.
F7D854B7-0E16-4A76-AABF-7EEF63AC0734.jpeg

I think this is what I am going to do.
I also spoke with a local structural engineer, who said sistering another 2x4 to the ties would be sufficient as well.
 
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