Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press

[619DioFan]

There some photos on the first page of this discussion. Here is another discussion were I described how it was done a little bit more. The winch and mounting plate came from HF. The pulleys and hardware from Tru value hardware. If you have other specific question, or need more photos, let me know.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353596&highlight=harbor+freight+ton+press

With the winch mounted to the frame does the press table rise evenly ? I tried first with the winch mounted to one end of the press table but the table would not rise any where near evenly. I have a 40 ton and the table has some weight to it.

 

[ndnchf]

With the winch mounted to the frame does the press table rise evenly ? I tried first with the winch mounted to one end of the press table but the table would not rise any where near evenly. I have a 40 ton and the table has some weight to it.

Yes, but you need to get all the slack out of both cables so tension is equal when setting it up. It doesn't matter whether the winch is on top or the side, so long as the tension is equal.

 

[619DioFan]

Yes, but you need to get all the slack out of both cables so tension is equal when setting it up. It doesn't matter whether the winch is on top or the side, so long as the tension is equal.

Thanks. I am going to mount it on the side of the frame as you did.

 

[ndnchf]

Thanks. I am going to mount it on the side of the frame as you did.

Good luck with it. Please post photos as you go, everybody learns that way.

 

[ndnchf]

I just wanted to follow up about using the press as a wood splitter. Yesterday I checked the local HF store for a #95553 air/hydraulic jack. Bingo, they got 2 in. So I whipped out my coupon for $89 and brought one home. I started installing it last night, got the holes drilled to mount it. But found I wanted some longer eye bolts to attach the springs (the new jack is just a little taller). I picked those up on the way home from work today. I finished up the install this afternoon and it works great.

I only intend to split a couple pieces of wood at a time for the back yard fire pit. But it worked just fine, had no problem splitting the oak. SO much easier than hand pumping.

I use my press for lots of things, including with a metal brake I bought. Every upgrade I do just makes it easier and more enjoyable to use. Next I'm going to make a tray for the bottom to hold associated tooling, plates, bits 'n pieces.

 

[countryroad82]

I had put off buying a press for years before I got into a project that forced me into buying one. I chose the same model in the video as I also buy into buy it once and cry once. Although at the price, I really didn't do any crying. One observation though, although it is heavy and awkward, I managed to unload mine with shear brute strength. I've used mine quite often and don't regret the purchase, I just didn't want another big tool taking up shop space. But it's one of those things I'm glad I did.

 

[michaelwolson]

Also, if anybody has the older (orange) version, do yourself a HUGE favor and use those bondo-filled cast plates for paper weights (BEFORE they hurt you) and get some STEEL ones, at LEAST 1" thick...

This thread reminded me that I need to do this. My face/body is typically pretty close to the press when I'm working and it's only usually protected by jeans/shirt/safety glasses.

I can't remember what my Dad was doing but he blew up one of our cast arbor plates from the orange 12 ton model.

He wasn't hurt but he said it was one of the loudest sounds he's heard and he used to go hunting, shotgun usually, with no ear protection...

He got a replacement from HF but I should probably think about upgrading...

 

[ndnchf]

This thread reminded me that I need to do this. My face/body is typically pretty close to the press when I'm working and it's only usually protected by jeans/shirt/safety glasses.

I can't remember what my Dad was doing but he blew up one of our cast arbor plates from the orange 12 ton model.

He wasn't hurt but he said it was one of the loudest sounds he's heard and he used to go hunting, shotgun usually, with no ear protection...

He got a replacement from HF but I should probably think about upgrading...

The new 60603 press is quite a bargain, especially when using the $149 coupon. You get a much better press with cut steel plates. Then you could cut up the old orange press and use the steel for other projects.

http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/20+TON+SHOP+PRESS

 

[StormcrowAz]

They are nice - there are a lot of ways to improve it too. I did a few mods to mine and really like it. Wheels to move it around, winch system clips to hold the handle, and a better knob for jack valve.

Pimp your press!

ndnchf - Thank you for the inspiration!

Basically copied your set-up with a coupe minor differences. Made my own valve handle and ended up just welding the pulleys to the top instead of bolting on.
20171114_154846

20171114_154905


Also made fixtures for the Grizzly vise brake and finished bends on this drawer for my new TIG cart.
20171112_115321

 

[ndnchf]

Looks great - These mods really make it a pleasure to use. The air/hyd jack saves a lot of wear and tear on the arm too!

 

[bobcatdan]

I have one and hate it. Yes it works and has done what I have asked but I can't wait for the day to find a nice Dake press cheap.

 

[ndnchf]

I have one and hate it. Yes it works and has done what I have asked but I can't wait for the day to find a nice Dake press cheap.

I'm curious, why do you hate it? Most folks seem pretty pleased with them.

 

[bobcatdan]

I'm curious, why do you hate it? Most folks seem pretty pleased with them.

While I know there are plenty mods that can be done to it, I don't see it being worth doing it to it. It's stupid short so I have to sit on an *** buggy to use it. The stock jack is really slow. I don't mod it because I have seen too many of these bend and deform from moderate use. I bought it because I needed a press that minute. I have admitted it has done what I ask so I give it that. When you are spoiled by dake and enerpac presses at work, it just comes off as ****. Just my feeling on the thing.

 

[sweetk30]

just a fyi its been posted here before in other threads . but this company has lots of goodys to ad to hf tools .

press plates and bender kits and other stuff.

I have there porta band table kit / plasma cutter circle makers / press brake kit for the hf 20 ton press /press plates for the hf 20ton press.

www.swagoffroad.com

 

[ovrrdrive]

I just wanted to follow up about using the press as a wood splitter. Yesterday I checked the local HF store for a #95553 air/hydraulic jack. Bingo, they got 2 in. So I whipped out my coupon for $89 and brought one home. I started installing it last night, got the holes drilled to mount it. But found I wanted some longer eye bolts to attach the springs (the new jack is just a little taller). I picked those up on the way home from work today. I finished up the install this afternoon and it works great.

I only intend to split a couple pieces of wood at a time for the back yard fire pit. But it worked just fine, had no problem splitting the oak. SO much easier than hand pumping.

I use my press for lots of things, including with a metal brake I bought. Every upgrade I do just makes it easier and more enjoyable to use. Next I'm going to make a tray for the bottom to hold associated tooling, plates, bits 'n pieces.

That's pretty smart... I would have never even thought to do that. Thanks.

 

[ndnchf]

I thought I should clarify one thing on the winch conversion I did. Above the winch I added what looks like a bolt to hold the cable close to the frame so it stays on the pulley. To clarify, its not just a bolt. It is a bolt with a steel sleeve over it. The sleeve acts as a roller for the cable to pass under. In the photo you can see a small oil hole to keep it lubricated. While a plain bolt will work, it would be a friction point. I had a piece of scrap steel tubing laying around, so decided to make the roller set up. Hope this helps.

 

[StormcrowAz]

I thought I should clarify one thing on the winch conversion I did. Above the winch I added what looks like a bolt to hold the cable close to the frame so it stays on the pulley. To clarify, its not just a bolt. It is a bolt with a steel sleeve over it. The sleeve acts as a roller for the cable to pass under. In the photo you can see a small oil hole to keep it lubricated. While a plain bolt will work, it would be a friction point. I had a piece of scrap steel tubing laying around, so decided to make the roller set up. Hope this helps.

The only bolts I had on-hand long enough were 3/4" and didn't want to put that big of a hole in the posts. Went with all-thread instead (which I did have in supply) and put a nut on each end. Tube is some random thin-wall stainless that was in the pile. Didn't bother with lubrication for this application. Don't have any rust issues but we do have a lot of dust, so didn't want to gum up the works.

 

[ndnchf]

The only bolts I had on-hand long enough were 3/4" and didn't want to put that big of a hole in the posts. Went with all-thread instead (which I did have in supply) and put a nut on each end. Tube is some random thin-wall stainless that was in the pile. Didn't bother with lubrication for this application. Don't have any rust issues but we do have a lot of dust, so didn't want to gum up the works.

Im sure that will be fine too. We're not talking high speed roller bearings here

 

[MoparTrucks]

I have had my press for a couple years and use it all the time. I added the casters, grade 8 bolts, and have collected a few quality press plates and next purchase is the air over hydraulic jack.

The main reason I posted this is because I got my 20 ton press for something like $116 because it was on sale and I used a 25% coupon. The coupon wasn't supposed to work on the press because it was on sale but the gal said well let me try it anyway and the computer let it through.

 

[blake101]

Wish I had luck like that.

 

[Farmall450]

I've read that about the gray ones having actual steel plates too, no personal knowledge tho - I also find it interesting that HF shows NO DIFFERENCE in the two gray ones you posted, pics are identical - but unlike SOME of their stuff, the actual MANUALS DO show the difference, the 32879 manual shows WELDED joints at the top.

IIRC, my old orange press is welded at the top - but I'd never consider it a "precision" instrument anyway - I've been slowly (key word "slow") gathering stuff to build my OWN press, looking at 50 ton. Scored an Enerpac hyd. power unit in a trade a couple years ago, didn't realize just how well I fared in that deal til I found that model # on line for just under $6k (trade was for the last HALF payment for my older model MM211)

Still looking for a compatible 10k pound cylinder, the rest I'll just buy new steel. Looking at a LOT more functionality than the basic HF press, including sliding cylinder position, more open frame, wider frame, cage, adjustable rollers on the table, etc...

At 72, I may never GET there - but with all the projects I have in mind, I flat guarantee I won't die of BOREDOM either, so in the end it'll mean I WON :=)) Steve

The 20T I got last spring did have steel plates, not cast. It was a grey bolt together. Has worked good so far, probably won't be working it too hard til I get a press brake together for it.

 

[ndnchf]

Fyi - the 20 press #60603 is on sale for $139 on black friday. Thats a good price if anyone is looking for one.

 

[L.Cheapo]

While I know there are plenty mods that can be done to it, I don't see it being worth doing it to it. It's stupid short so I have to sit on an *** buggy to use it. The stock jack is really slow. I don't mod it because I have seen too many of these bend and deform from moderate use. I bought it because I needed a press that minute. I have admitted it has done what I ask so I give it that. When you are spoiled by dake and enerpac presses at work, it just comes off as ****. Just my feeling on the thing.

I agree 100%. The 20 ton press is the only thing I've ever bought from harbor freight that's outlasted bread and hasn't ended up in the trash can in short order. But when the pressing gets serious, it tenses up and twists a little. That makes my bung pucker.

But, like you, I unexpectedly needed a press RIGHT NOW several years ago, and it was all I could get on a Saturday afternoon. I don't use it often, so its fairly low on the upgrade list. But I keep my eyes open for a nice 20-50 ton USA unit.

 

[thugline]

Fyi - the 20 press #60603 is on sale for $139 on black friday. Thats a good price if anyone is looking for one.

With the 20% off coupon, this brings the price down to $112. Good deal I’m on my way to pick one up now.

 

[Craftfab]

I just got this press (60603) and added my SWAG arbor plates and 3” locking (110lb capacity each) casters as well as picked up 1/8" galvanized cable to run as safety wire through the return springs.

Have two questions:
1) Would short all thread grade 8 bolts (4 on each side at top) be better than the stock bolts that run through both sides? Or should I try to source grade 8 that are not all thread?

2) When I start pumping the jack the shaft shifts far right inside the short cap that holds it against top of press. Should I adjust the springs on each side to try and level it out? Anyone else have one that does not center itself in the top plate when in use?

Thanks

 

[gatlibs]

I just got this press (60603) and added my SWAG arbor plates and 3” locking (110lb capacity each) casters as well as picked up 1/8" galvanized cable to run as safety wire through the return springs.

Have two questions:
1) Would short all thread grade 8 bolts (4 on each side at top) be better than the stock bolts that run through both sides? Or should I try to source grade 8 that are not all thread?

2) When I start pumping the jack the shaft shifts far right inside the short cap that holds it against top of press. Should I adjust the springs on each side to try and level it out? Anyone else have one that does not center itself in the top plate when in use?

Thanks

I don't have the answers to your questions, but I am very curious. Why didn't you just buy a Sunbed 20 ton since you bought the SWAG plates? I found myself in the opposite position. I bought the Since made in U.S.A., but have not been able to sitting for SWAG Off-road plates.

 

[ndnchf]

I just got this press (60603) and added my SWAG arbor plates and 3” locking (110lb capacity each) casters as well as picked up 1/8" galvanized cable to run as safety wire through the return springs.

Have two questions:
1) Would short all thread grade 8 bolts (4 on each side at top) be better than the stock bolts that run through both sides? Or should I try to source grade 8 that are not all thread?

2) When I start pumping the jack the shaft shifts far right inside the short cap that holds it against top of press. Should I adjust the springs on each side to try and level it out? Anyone else have one that does not center itself in the top plate when in use?

Thanks

Don't mess with all thread. Buy eight grade 8 bolts, lockwashers and nuts. That will leave the channel open which will be helpful if you decide to add a winch at some point. It will also be stronger than four long bolts. Yes, adjust the spring tension so it is even.

 

[Craftfab]

Don't mess with all thread. Buy eight grade 8 bolts, lockwashers and nuts. That will leave the channel open which will be helpful if you decide to add a winch at some point. It will also be stronger than four long bolts. Yes, adjust the spring tension so it is even.

Thanks. The only short grade 8 bolts Lowe's had were all thread. I will look at another store. I bleed and filled the jack with hydraulic fluid (was very low) and tried out my SWAG press brake today and one of my dimple dies.

Was disappointed to see after bending two pieces (16" wide 16ga steel and 1.5" wide 1/8" flat bar) and doing one dimple in 16ga, that the press had moved out of square. It was as square as I could get before hand. I have gaps all around my top crossmember where it bolts to the side uprights which doesn't help I am sure.

Are these gaps common between the top crossmember sides and the upright where the four top bolts go through? Anyone try to shim between the crossmember and the upright on both sides? I had everything tight but will go back over all the fasteners again.

 

[plc268]

Thanks. The only short grade 8 bolts Lowe's had were all thread. I will look at another store. I bleed and filled the jack with hydraulic fluid (was very low) and tried out my SWAG press brake today and one of my dimple dies.

Was disappointed to see after bending two pieces (16" wide 16ga steel and 1.5" wide 1/8" flat bar) and doing one dimple in 16ga, that the press had moved out of square. It was as square as I could get before hand. I have gaps all around my top crossmember where it bolts to the side uprights which doesn't help I am sure.

Are these gaps common between the top crossmember sides and the upright where the four top bolts go through? Anyone try to shim between the crossmember and the upright on both sides? I had everything tight but will go back over all the fasteners again.

Tractor Supply, if you have one, is a good source for cheap priced Grade 8 bolts.

 

[ndnchf]

Thanks. The only short grade 8 bolts Lowe's had were all thread. I will look at another store. I bleed and filled the jack with hydraulic fluid (was very low) and tried out my SWAG press brake today and one of my dimple dies.

Was disappointed to see after bending two pieces (16" wide 16ga steel and 1.5" wide 1/8" flat bar) and doing one dimple in 16ga, that the press had moved out of square. It was as square as I could get before hand. I have gaps all around my top crossmember where it bolts to the side uprights which doesn't help I am sure.

Are these gaps common between the top crossmember sides and the upright where the four top bolts go through? Anyone try to shim between the crossmember and the upright on both sides? I had everything tight but will go back over all the fasteners again.

The problem with 4 bolts is that there is little clamping action between the uprights because of the gap. Using eight bolts provides a much firmer grip. I've pressed some pretty tough things and not seen any shifting from square. Do you have a Tru-Value hardware nearby? They have a good selection of grade 8 bolts. If you use eight bolts, and get it square, you could also weld it together for additional rigidity.

 

[6PTsocket]

A while back they were selling a no name welded frame press that they claimed to be 30 ton and made in USA. It was being sold at car shows like Carlisle. The dealer would throw in a cheap 20 ton Chinese jack. I got a Torin Big Red. My frame makes two of the HF so if mine is truly 30 ton then the HF is not even close. The one that seems the closest to mine by dimensions and design is the Sunnex with 30 ton rated frame. I don't see mine around any more; it was a great deal. It also has telescoping guide tubes to keep the movable beam square, not just hanging from the springs. Evenually I want a decent set of press plates. I just got two bars with mine. Don't try a 30 ton jack with that frame.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[BukitCase]

Craftfab - "The only short grade 8 bolts Lowe's had were all thread"

I'm getting the impression you arent using the term "allthread" the same as I'm used to -
"allthread" is another name for continuously threaded ROD - no nuts OR bolt head, it's used with nuts on both ends (often double nutted and JAMMED so one end acts as the bolt head -

Typically, actual BOLTS have "ALL of the bolt THREADED" if they're relatively short - 5/8" bolts for example, usually get about 1-1/2" long before they have a smooth section - but for shorter bolts, you'd be fine using ones that don't have a smooth section; that's likely all you'll find.

I'm pretty sure what ndnchf meant by "don't use allthread" (or long bolts) is to NOT bolt thru BOTH sides of the channel with the SAME FASTENER - if you do that, the thin-walled channel will become a PRETZEL long before you reach the torque rating on a Grade 8 bolt - and he's right, doing it that way the joints will STILL slip... Steve

 

[ndnchf]

Bukitcase has it right. Use eight grade 8 Bolts, lock washers and nuts.

 

[Showkey]

It would be interesting to but a 50-100 ton jack in the HF press. Under controlled test take the press to a failure point. I would guess the rails, uprights or head support rail will deform long before the bolts fails ??????

 

[Craftfab]

BukitCase, you are correct, I was using the incorrect term. Thank you for the clarification. All I could find was bolts that did not have a smooth section, which I was looking for, as read some folks state the threaded portion of a bolt is the weakest point and to not have that section run through the hole. I will go ahead and get the 5/8 grade 8 bolts I found that have all of the bolt threaded and use four on each side instead of two running the span on each side. Perhaps my uprights are pinched too much and I just need to exchange the press for another at HF.

ndnchf, were your uprights a snug fit in the top crossmember when you bought it? Or when you tightened your bolts did that close the gap because your photo right above looks like a tight fit. Currently I could fit a quarter or nickel between my uprights and the crossmember at top where bolts go through, front and back of both bolts on each side. I would be interested in the inside width of your upright c channel.

 

[drsung]

Anybody have a link for the casters they used for their press? I need to add some to mine.

 

[ndnchf]

ndnchf, were your uprights a snug fit in the top crossmember when you bought it? Or when you tightened your bolts did that close the gap because your photo right above looks like a tight fit. Currently I could fit a quarter or nickel between my uprights and the crossmember at top where bolts go through, front and back of both bolts on each side. I would be interested in the inside width of your upright c channel.

It's been a while, but I don't recall there being a tight fit between the uprights and crossmember. There probably was a small gap that was closed up by tightening the eight bolts. I'll measure the gap tonight.

 

[BukitCase]

Showkey - "It would be interesting to but a 50-100 ton jack in the HF press"

I can answer that; assuming HF's 20 ton air/hydraulic jack actually PRODUCES 20 tons, your answer is 20.005

My press is one of the older ones - orange, welded, always considered a "stop-gap" while I acquire the pieces for a REAL one. Hasn't happened YET, and I needed to make some "U-plates" for my (still not completed) loader bucket quick attach mod on my old Case 580B -

Said "U-plates" are 1/2x3 mild steel FB, and will be to catch the upper pins on whatever implement hangs on the loader. I built a jig to do this using 3/4x3 FB and 1-1/2" cold roll rod (the pin size on loader)

In order for the press to complete the "push", I ended up with 45* bevels on the mouth of the jig, and STILL had to oil the mouth for the final push -

I didn't notice this during the first push, but when I RELEASED the pressure the WHOLE FRAME moved sideways, back to where it'd BEEN (looked like about an INCH

Some pics; very last one is of a much smaller Kubota. Same style, but nothing on mine is less than 1/2" thick... Steve

Sorry, no pics of the actual FLEX - the camera probably woulda been shaking too much ANYWAY

 

[6PTsocket]

Craftfab - "The only short grade 8 bolts Lowe's had were all thread"

I'm getting the impression you arent using the term "allthread" the same as I'm used to -
"allthread" is another name for continuously threaded ROD - no nuts OR bolt head, it's used with nuts on both ends (often double nutted and JAMMED so one end acts as the bolt head -

Typically, actual BOLTS have "ALL of the bolt THREADED" if they're relatively short - 5/8" bolts for example, usually get about 1-1/2" long before they have a smooth section - but for shorter bolts, you'd be fine using ones that don't have a smooth section; that's likely all you'll find.

I'm pretty sure what ndnchf meant by "don't use allthread" (or long bolts) is to NOT bolt thru BOTH sides of the channel with the SAME FASTENER - if you do that, the thin-walled channel will become a PRETZEL long before you reach the torque rating on a Grade 8 bolt - and he's right, doing it that way the joints will STILL slip... Steve

I used to worry about that until I found fully threaded bolts holding pump on my US made Hein Werner floor jack. If it was not a concern there, it is probably not an issue. As stated, smaller bolts are fully threaded. The way around it, sometimes, is to find a longer bolt with the right amount of shoulder and cut it down, or not.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[ndnchf]

I measured the channel width on an upright next to the bolts. It is 3-5/8".