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Harbor Freight Brake

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FigN⋅m

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Feb 28, 2024
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Compared to a SWAG kit, it's cheap. Compared to itself, it's kinda expensive...?

I really wish the frame was wider & taller to do basic box work.
 

kaymccampbell

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Feb 27, 2015
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It's on my list for my next big project. It looks pretty good, but I haven't taken one down from the shelf and given it a shake yet. Others I know have that brake, and they speak highly of them. The only reason I want one is that I'm tired of clamping chunks of iron in the vise and beating them with a sledge.
 
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AEAdam

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As with any tool question on GJ, it depends on your specific needs and expectations.

Check out the YouTubers who have improved the 12t press and you will find more practical info on this
 

GeoBruin

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May 5, 2018
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As with any tool question on GJ, it depends on your specific needs and expectations.

Check out the YouTubers who have improved the 12t press and you will find more practical info on this
Except, again, the OP is asking about the 12 inch press brake attachment, not the hydraulic press. This is a new tool for Harbor Freight and just hit the shelves.
 

AEAdam

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Except, again, the OP is asking about the 12 inch press brake attachment, not the hydraulic press. This is a new tool for Harbor Freight and just hit the shelves.
No I got that. I’ve seen a bunch of 12 ton press mods that include this functionality. Maybe HF copied what these guys came up with? There are multiple mods to the 12t press that may be related or relevant.
 

FigN⋅m

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Feb 28, 2024
Messages
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It's a "if you can't make a press brake, do you even need one?" kind of joke,
but I don't even know what steel is about to do, and what is my time worth.
And this is with SWAG right down the street from me...!
 
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65k10

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somewhere
It looks pretty close to the one I bought from Eastwood a few years ago for more money. I guess for the basic work I have done with sheet metal and 1/8 flat steel it has worked fine, but I wasn't doing anything that required very much precision. Usually I was just making dividers for ammo cans and basic brackets.

The 12" width really limits it for doing anything sheet metal related. I bought it because it would fit my 10 ton press, but the press is wide enough it could have accommodated something like a 16" (maybe bigger, I cannot remember exactly how wide the press is) brake if one existed and that would have been welcome. It's certainly better than not having any sort of press brake, but it's kind of limited in what it is capable of. It makes me wish I had a larger press that could accommodate a larger brake like one of those SWAG brakes with fingers.
 
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cannuck

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Nov 30, 2021
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I guess the best thing I could say is it will be better than nothing but not as good as some things. When it comes to breaking stuff, you will need to understand how much springback and cracking the material and orientation (cross grain or down grain) will produce. If you had a punch and die that when bottomed at exactly 90 degrees in 1/8 cross grain you might find cracking in 1/4 at same punch radius and much more so in aluminum. For that reason (watch the SWAG video - and you will see a few of limitations of any bending tools) it is one thing you just have to bite the bullet and do what you can to learn the ins and outs. Note (again on SWAG video) that die width limits how close you can make subsequent bends. Dozens of things like that.
 

cannuck

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Just because we are on the subject, worth discussing some of the fundamentals.

You will notice that large press brakes usually have a 4 sided die. The upside is you can move the 2 points that support the edge of the bend (again, see round additions to SWAG in video above). The dowsnside of that is with typical 8" wide dies you can't get any closer than about 4 1/2" between opposite direction 90 degree bends. To do that in big breaks you can get narrow dies that fit into 8" base. The grooves in "normal" V dies are usually 85 degree - allowing for spring back. Not sure what angle the Chinese HF one is, but that would be first question to have answered before buying and trying.

There are a LOT of punch and die combinations to do all that can be done:

The kick with all fixed geometry V dies is that they WILL leave a mark where edges of V push and slide along the material being bent. The usual rule of thumb is called "rule of 8" that means die width should be 8x material thickness, but you can quickly see that is pretty narrow. If you use wider V you get a radius on what you assume would be the "flats" beside the bend. The break tooling business solves that with rotary dies the do not slide material

The other big factor is the shape and tip radius of the punch. Again, see the SWAG video and you can see how the flame cut edge of his material became a stress riser that the sharp edged punch started a crack from.

Lots to read, lots to learn but extremely useful and satisfying to be able to make what you want/need in house
 
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