Harbor Freight Coupon Thread

SuperSocket · Jul 8, 2011

diggerrick said:
I picked up the drain plug set also. I'm not really sold on it yet though. For $10 I probably won't return it, but if it doesn't come in handy in the next couple months it's going in the next garage sale.

I need to come to your garage sales :spit:

diggerrick · Jul 8, 2011

bimmerZ5 said:
that doesn't make any sense... are you planning to change the oil in a gear box or diff any time soon? why would you buy the set if you don't have any plans to use any of it?

Nope, not planning on it.

It was one one of those "this coukd come in kinda handy, and IT'S ON SALE" moments. The only sizes I don't already have covered are the 11mm & 5/16" squares. Are the 2pc hex bit sockets really that much weaker than the these 1pc sockets? Notice these are "Pittsburgh" label, not the newer, better "Pittsburgh Pro" line. I questioned the strength and hardness of the sockets before I put them in my cart, but I guess there's only one way to find out. Have any of you actually used them?

I feel the same way about these Torx bits I also picked up:

But for $2, they were hard to pass up. I already have those size sockets. I haven't replaced the pads on my '05 Chevy 1/2 ton yet, but my understanding is it uses a T55, not the T40, 45,or 50 in this set.

c240classic · Jul 8, 2011

Anybody have current coupons of the 1/4 , 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches? I need it Asap. Thx

bimmerZ5 · Jul 8, 2011

c240classic said:
Anybody have current coupons of the 1/4 , 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches? I need it Asap. Thx

check over at slickdeals.net for their HFT coupon thread.

Jaguar Fan · Jul 8, 2011

Any thoughts on this cart? is it any good at this price, or is it junk?

Carl B · Jul 8, 2011

Hi Jag Fan:
I was in our local HF Store a couple days ago. I looked at their 13 drawer roll cab, the Black cart and this red cart. I'm thinking of buying one or more of the three for my son.

First let me say that I am just amazed at how well made all three of these specific units are. I have an old Craftsman top box - that I've had for 40 years - and a Snap-On Top/Bottom/Side box that I've had for about 20 years. With both of them as my benchmark - I believe that the offerings listed above from HF are perhaps as close in quality as anything I've looked at lately. They would be a great value for twice the money or more. No they are not Snap-On quality - but far above anything in their price range at full retail.

The red cart is somewhat larger than the black one - and if you need the extra capacity it is perhaps built a little stronger as well. Nonetheless the black one would be easier to get around in the garage and for $99.00 it is really hard to beat.

If you can - I suggest going to the HF Store and look them over yourself. If you can't then I would not be afraid to recommend the red one to anyone - especially at $169.99 or lower. Amazing value for your money.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Ric in Richmond · Jul 8, 2011

Carl B said:
Hi Jag Fan:
I was in our local HF Store a couple days ago. I looked at their 13 drawer roll cab, the Black cart and this red cart. I'm thinking of buying one or more of the three for my son.

First let me say that I am just amazed at how well made all three of these specific units are. I have an old Craftsman top box - that I've had for 40 years - and a Snap-On Top/Bottom/Side box that I've had for about 20 years. With both of them as my benchmark - I believe that the offerings listed above from HF are perhaps as close in quality as anything I've looked at lately. They would be a great value for twice the money or more. No they are not Snap-On quality - but far above anything in their price range at full retail.

The red cart is somewhat larger than the black one - and if you need the extra capacity it is perhaps built a little stronger as well. Nonetheless the black one would be easier to get around in the garage and for $99.00 it is really hard to beat.

If you can - I suggest going to the HF Store and look them over yourself. If you can't then I would not be afraid to recommend the red one to anyone - especially at $169.99 or lower. Amazing value for your money.

FWIW,
Carl B.

I was very disappointed in the black chests....but the red ones were VERY nicely done. I'd seriously consider one and this price is great....

bimmerZ5 · Jul 8, 2011

Carl B said:
Hi Jag Fan:
I was in our local HF Store a couple days ago. I looked at their 13 drawer roll cab, the Black cart and this red cart. I'm thinking of buying one or more of the three for my son.

First let me say that I am just amazed at how well made all three of these specific units are. I have an old Craftsman top box - that I've had for 40 years - and a Snap-On Top/Bottom/Side box that I've had for about 20 years. With both of them as my benchmark - I believe that the offerings listed above from HF are perhaps as close in quality as anything I've looked at lately. They would be a great value for twice the money or more. No they are not Snap-On quality - but far above anything in their price range at full retail.

The red cart is somewhat larger than the black one - and if you need the extra capacity it is perhaps built a little stronger as well. Nonetheless the black one would be easier to get around in the garage and for $99.00 it is really hard to beat.

If you can - I suggest going to the HF Store and look them over yourself. If you can't then I would not be afraid to recommend the red one to anyone - especially at $169.99 or lower. Amazing value for your money.

FWIW,
Carl B.

I'm just curious, since you're using craftsman and snap-on as a benchmark in forming your opinion about these HF ones; what specific qualities are you're comparing?

Carl B · Jul 9, 2011

Hi bimmerZ5
Good question. Nor is it an easy one to give short answers too. Quality is defined by the customer after all. Customer requirements also change over time...

I guess I look mostly at form, fit , function - followed by structural design, materials and construction techniques.

Not consciously at the time, but now looking back at what I usually - actually do; I look at form - the layout in terms of what tools I have or will have - and where would they go in a tool box. Usually I find myself pulling out the drawers - at first about an inch - then I try to wiggle them side-to-side. I also then pull the drawer to full extension - and apply opposing pressure to each side of the drawer - up on one side - down on the other. Just to get a feel for the rigidity of the drawer and an idea of how they would function when loaded over time.

If the tool box passes the initial look and feel test - usually I look more closely at the structural design, materials and construction techniques.

The sheetmetal in both my SO and the HF boxes would seem to be about the same - relatively thin. Both simply bend sheetmetal to form the bottom and sides of the drawers. In my SO box they use drawer dividers inside the drawer s, either front to rear, or side to side - to reinforce the drawer. Kind of an "T" beam suspended between the two sides or ends and adding strength to the bottom. The HF box uses a boxed sheetmetal frame under the drawer for the same reason - but it leaves the drawer fully open inside. {a nice feature IMHO}.

The drawer slides on my SO box are spot welded to the sides of the drawers. This adds greatly to the strength of the drawer - and all but eliminates side to side movement. The down side is that you have to use a "tool" to remove the drawer and the slides are not roller types - so effort to open/close them when fully loaded is pretty high. {Newer SO boxes may be using roller or ball bearing slides now}.

The drawer slides on the HF box are roller type and they are not welded to the drawers. HF uses rivets to attach the slides to the sides of the drawers. So you do have a bit more side to side play - the upside is that the drawer slides could be easily replaced if necessary - and they can be removed with the flip of a latch. The slides themselves on both boxes are certainly strong enough to hold a drawer full of tools for many many years. On the HF box, with drawers more than 4" deep - they use two slides on each side of the drawers as well.

On both SO and HF where sheetmetal is overlapped - like the front or rear ends of the drawers - they are welded together. HF folds the sheetmetal over on the top edge of the sides of their drawers - about 1/8". This adds strength to the sides. SO doesn't - I believe because welding the drawer sides to the sides of the drawers accomplishes enough strength.

I'll mention that both SO and HF top boxes have their lids attached via piano hinges that are riveted to the back & top.

Both are painted - my SO is bright and shinny - making it relatively easy to clean, the HF box is painted with a rough finish - I don't know how that will stand up over time, or how hard/easy it would be to keep clean.

The HF box has nicer casters - they are larger in both diameter and width - than my SO box. But then the HF box is more a "roll cab" which is quite a bit wider than my SO which is more a "bottom box".

I worked in an engineering environment for 30+ years - and we could always debate any technical detail. Everything seems to be a trade-off of some type. No question that if we got a group of guys together - sat the SO box beside the HF box - we could argue endlessly about the overlap areas of sheetmetal and how many spot welds or rivets should be used. Likewise we could argue about how strong something really has to be to do the job and how much margin should be included in the design etc etc.

All that agreed too - I think that the HF box stacks up pretty well in terms of design, quality build and materials. Personally I like some of the design features of the HF box a little better. I am also quick to admit that I bought the SO box mainly because I wanted to give myself the top rung item at the time - - one that 99% of the mechanics and car nuts I know agree is the "BEST". I could easily afford it and I've always been very happy with that decision. Now twenty plus years older and wiser... I don't know if I'd make the same choice today. $400.00 for the HF box vs $4,000.00 for the SO.... Or for that matter $400.00 for the HF box vs $1500.00 for a used SO...??? All depends on what you want far more than any difference in objective quality trade-off's.

I'd also say that both companies are giving their customers what the Customers want.

Like I said - I'm not saying that the HF box is "as good" - just that in most regards it comes pretty close for one tenth the money - and that it is perhaps as good as any home garage will ever need - its a pretty "smart buy".

FWIW,
Carl B

archirelic · Jul 9, 2011

@Carl B: Pretty thorough and qualitative assessment based on your needs/wants desires. I wish more reviews of items followed a similar style & format.

Jaguar Fan · Jul 9, 2011

Carl B said:
Hi Jag Fan:
I was in our local HF Store a couple days ago. I looked at their 13 drawer roll cab, the Black cart and this red cart. I'm thinking of buying one or more of the three for my son.

First let me say that I am just amazed at how well made all three of these specific units are. I have an old Craftsman top box - that I've had for 40 years - and a Snap-On Top/Bottom/Side box that I've had for about 20 years. With both of them as my benchmark - I believe that the offerings listed above from HF are perhaps as close in quality as anything I've looked at lately. They would be a great value for twice the money or more. No they are not Snap-On quality - but far above anything in their price range at full retail.

The red cart is somewhat larger than the black one - and if you need the extra capacity it is perhaps built a little stronger as well. Nonetheless the black one would be easier to get around in the garage and for $99.00 it is really hard to beat.

If you can - I suggest going to the HF Store and look them over yourself. If you can't then I would not be afraid to recommend the red one to anyone - especially at $169.99 or lower. Amazing value for your money.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Carl, thanks for your opinion & write-up!

Jaguar Fan · Jul 9, 2011

Carl B said:
Hi bimmerZ5
Good question. Nor is it an easy one to give short answers too. Quality is defined by the customer after all. Customer requirements also change over time...

I guess I look mostly at form, fit , function - followed by structural design, materials and construction techniques.

Not consciously at the time, but now looking back at what I usually - actually do; I look at form - the layout in terms of what tools I have or will have - and where would they go in a tool box. Usually I find myself pulling out the drawers - at first about an inch - then I try to wiggle them side-to-side. I also then pull the drawer to full extension - and apply opposing pressure to each side of the drawer - up on one side - down on the other. Just to get a feel for the rigidity of the drawer and an idea of how they would function when loaded over time.

If the tool box passes the initial look and feel test - usually I look more closely at the structural design, materials and construction techniques.

The sheetmetal in both my SO and the HF boxes would seem to be about the same - relatively thin. Both simply bend sheetmetal to form the bottom and sides of the drawers. In my SO box they use drawer dividers inside the drawer s, either front to rear, or side to side - to reinforce the drawer. Kind of an "T" beam suspended between the two sides or ends and adding strength to the bottom. The HF box uses a boxed sheetmetal frame under the drawer for the same reason - but it leaves the drawer fully open inside. {a nice feature IMHO}.

The drawer slides on my SO box are spot welded to the sides of the drawers. This adds greatly to the strength of the drawer - and all but eliminates side to side movement. The down side is that you have to use a "tool" to remove the drawer and the slides are not roller types - so effort to open/close them when fully loaded is pretty high. {Newer SO boxes may be using roller or ball bearing slides now}.

The drawer slides on the HF box are roller type and they are not welded to the drawers. HF uses rivets to attach the slides to the sides of the drawers. So you do have a bit more side to side play - the upside is that the drawer slides could be easily replaced if necessary - and they can be removed with the flip of a latch. The slides themselves on both boxes are certainly strong enough to hold a drawer full of tools for many many years. On the HF box, with drawers more than 4" deep - they use two slides on each side of the drawers as well.

On both SO and HF where sheetmetal is overlapped - like the front or rear ends of the drawers - they are welded together. HF folds the sheetmetal over on the top edge of the sides of their drawers - about 1/8". This adds strength to the sides. SO doesn't - I believe because welding the drawer sides to the sides of the drawers accomplishes enough strength.

I'll mention that both SO and HF top boxes have their lids attached via piano hinges that are riveted to the back & top.

Both are painted - my SO is bright and shinny - making it relatively easy to clean, the HF box is painted with a rough finish - I don't know how that will stand up over time, or how hard/easy it would be to keep clean.

The HF box has nicer casters - they are larger in both diameter and width - than my SO box. But then the HF box is more a "roll cab" which is quite a bit wider than my SO which is more a "bottom box".

I worked in an engineering environment for 30+ years - and we could always debate any technical detail. Everything seems to be a trade-off of some type. No question that if we got a group of guys together - sat the SO box beside the HF box - we could argue endlessly about the overlap areas of sheetmetal and how many spot welds or rivets should be used. Likewise we could argue about how strong something really has to be to do the job and how much margin should be included in the design etc etc.

All that agreed too - I think that the HF box stacks up pretty well in terms of design, quality build and materials. Personally I like some of the design features of the HF box a little better. I am also quick to admit that I bought the SO box mainly because I wanted to give myself the top rung item at the time - - one that 99% of the mechanics and car nuts I know agree is the "BEST". I could easily afford it and I've always been very happy with that decision. Now twenty plus years older and wiser... I don't know if I'd make the same choice today. $400.00 for the HF box vs $4,000.00 for the SO.... Or for that matter $400.00 for the HF box vs $1500.00 for a used SO...??? All depends on what you want far more than any difference in objective quality trade-off's.

I'd also say that both companies are giving their customers what the Customers want.

Like I said - I'm not saying that the HF box is "as good" - just that in most regards it comes pretty close for one tenth the money - and that it is perhaps as good as any home garage will ever need - its a pretty "smart buy".

FWIW,
Carl B

Again, thank you for your insights!

Carl B · Jul 9, 2011

Hi Guys:
Thanks - Glad to add any input that might be helpful.

Carl B.

porksoda · Jul 9, 2011

Anyone know of any coupons I can use on their low profile floor jack? All the ones I find exclude floor jacks from the discount.

bimmerZ5 · Jul 9, 2011

Carl B said:
Hi bimmerZ5
Good question. Nor is it an easy one to give short answers too. Quality is defined by the customer after all. Customer requirements also change over time...

I guess I look mostly at form, fit , function - followed by structural design, materials and construction techniques.

Not consciously at the time, but now looking back at what I usually - actually do; I look at form - the layout in terms of what tools I have or will have - and where would they go in a tool box. Usually I find myself pulling out the drawers - at first about an inch - then I try to wiggle them side-to-side. I also then pull the drawer to full extension - and apply opposing pressure to each side of the drawer - up on one side - down on the other. Just to get a feel for the rigidity of the drawer and an idea of how they would function when loaded over time.

If the tool box passes the initial look and feel test - usually I look more closely at the structural design, materials and construction techniques.

The sheetmetal in both my SO and the HF boxes would seem to be about the same - relatively thin. Both simply bend sheetmetal to form the bottom and sides of the drawers. In my SO box they use drawer dividers inside the drawer s, either front to rear, or side to side - to reinforce the drawer. Kind of an "T" beam suspended between the two sides or ends and adding strength to the bottom. The HF box uses a boxed sheetmetal frame under the drawer for the same reason - but it leaves the drawer fully open inside. {a nice feature IMHO}.

The drawer slides on my SO box are spot welded to the sides of the drawers. This adds greatly to the strength of the drawer - and all but eliminates side to side movement. The down side is that you have to use a "tool" to remove the drawer and the slides are not roller types - so effort to open/close them when fully loaded is pretty high. {Newer SO boxes may be using roller or ball bearing slides now}.

The drawer slides on the HF box are roller type and they are not welded to the drawers. HF uses rivets to attach the slides to the sides of the drawers. So you do have a bit more side to side play - the upside is that the drawer slides could be easily replaced if necessary - and they can be removed with the flip of a latch. The slides themselves on both boxes are certainly strong enough to hold a drawer full of tools for many many years. On the HF box, with drawers more than 4" deep - they use two slides on each side of the drawers as well.

On both SO and HF where sheetmetal is overlapped - like the front or rear ends of the drawers - they are welded together. HF folds the sheetmetal over on the top edge of the sides of their drawers - about 1/8". This adds strength to the sides. SO doesn't - I believe because welding the drawer sides to the sides of the drawers accomplishes enough strength.

I'll mention that both SO and HF top boxes have their lids attached via piano hinges that are riveted to the back & top.

Both are painted - my SO is bright and shinny - making it relatively easy to clean, the HF box is painted with a rough finish - I don't know how that will stand up over time, or how hard/easy it would be to keep clean.

The HF box has nicer casters - they are larger in both diameter and width - than my SO box. But then the HF box is more a "roll cab" which is quite a bit wider than my SO which is more a "bottom box".

I worked in an engineering environment for 30+ years - and we could always debate any technical detail. Everything seems to be a trade-off of some type. No question that if we got a group of guys together - sat the SO box beside the HF box - we could argue endlessly about the overlap areas of sheetmetal and how many spot welds or rivets should be used. Likewise we could argue about how strong something really has to be to do the job and how much margin should be included in the design etc etc.

All that agreed too - I think that the HF box stacks up pretty well in terms of design, quality build and materials. Personally I like some of the design features of the HF box a little better. I am also quick to admit that I bought the SO box mainly because I wanted to give myself the top rung item at the time - - one that 99% of the mechanics and car nuts I know agree is the "BEST". I could easily afford it and I've always been very happy with that decision. Now twenty plus years older and wiser... I don't know if I'd make the same choice today. $400.00 for the HF box vs $4,000.00 for the SO.... Or for that matter $400.00 for the HF box vs $1500.00 for a used SO...??? All depends on what you want far more than any difference in objective quality trade-off's.

I'd also say that both companies are giving their customers what the Customers want.

Like I said - I'm not saying that the HF box is "as good" - just that in most regards it comes pretty close for one tenth the money - and that it is perhaps as good as any home garage will ever need - its a pretty "smart buy".

FWIW,
Carl B

Carl,

Thanks for your detailed reply. I was mainly curious what qualities people compare when they are looking at tool boxes. Of course, I know this is "your" perspective, but nonetheless I appreciate you sharing. If this forum had a way to give "rep points", I would certainly give you as many as I could right now!

Next time I'm at HFT, I'll take a closer look at their toolboxes. Most of the stuff I have is stainless steel, so I try to continue that trend so that things "match" in my garage. I bought a HammerHead LX stainless tool box (bottom+ top) about 7 yrs ago from Costco for $599 and have been completely satisfied with it and only wish I had gotten a 2nd one now that it is full. I hope HFT will have a stainless one some day...

archirelic · Jul 9, 2011

bimmerZ5 said:
Carl,

Thanks for your detailed reply. I was mainly curious what qualities people compare when they are looking at tool boxes. Of course, I know this is "your" perspective, but nonetheless I appreciate you sharing. If this forum had a way to give "rep points", I would certainly give you as many as I could right now!

Next time I'm at HFT, I'll take a closer look at their toolboxes. Most of the stuff I have is stainless steel, so I try to continue that trend so that things "match" in my garage. I bought a HammerHead LX stainless tool box (bottom+ top) about 7 yrs ago from Costco for $599 and have been completely satisfied with it and only wish I had gotten a 2nd one now that it is full. I hope HFT will have a stainless one some day...

Harbor Freight used to carry a stainless steel version of their chest if I'm not mistaken. In fact, someone on this forum has posted up a picture of it before.

archirelic · Jul 9, 2011

In fact, here's what a quick google search turned up. Of course this was as aforementioned, several years ago. Maybe they'll bring it back.

stevepsd · Jul 9, 2011

porksoda said:
Anyone know of any coupons I can use on their low profile floor jack? All the ones I find exclude floor jacks from the discount.

Here is one for their low-profile 3000lb aluminum jack....even a better deal than this months Inside Track club!

http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-jack-68053-html-7814.html

-steve

porksoda · Jul 9, 2011

Yea I found that one too but I was really wanting to get their steel low profile one. So really a coupon for that or a percentage off would help. It is 129.99. All the ones I find for 20% off or anything all say "exclude floor jacks". Don't know if there even is a coupon available for floor jacks.

stevepsd · Jul 9, 2011

All the coupons I have seen of late all exclude jacks...and compressors, tool boxes...etc, so I think you will have to wait for it to go on sale. :sad:

Carl B · Jul 9, 2011

bimmerZ5 said:
Carl,

Thanks for your detailed reply.
...and...
Next time I'm at HFT, I'll take a closer look at their toolboxes.

Hi BimmerZ5:
My pleasure - I'm always glad to try to answer reasonable quesitons.

I will say that it is important to look closely - when you take a closer look - not all the offerings from HF are of the same quality as that 13 drawer USGeneral industrial box.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Carl B · Jul 9, 2011

stevepsd said:
Here is one for their low-profile 3000lb aluminum jack....even a better deal than this months Inside Track club!

http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-jack-68053-html-7814.html

-steve

Amazing...

Decades ago - aluminum racing jacks - with one pump capability were custom made items, offered by very few small speciality shops - and they could easily be $2,000.00 or more.

At sixty bucks - I'll pick up another. None of the cars I work on weigh more than 2500lbs anyway. The aluminum jacks are sooo much easier to drag around the garage than the old steel units.

FWIW,
Carl B.

bimmerZ5 · Jul 9, 2011

by the way, does anyone know of a current coupon for the earthquake 1/2" drive impact wrench? found one from a few years ago for $80, but haven't seen anything lately. I guess I can get $80 by using a 20% off coupon ($100 normal price).... looking for something better.

bimmerZ5 · Jul 9, 2011

Carl B said:
Amazing...

Decades ago - aluminum racing jacks - with one pump capability were custom made items, offered by very few small speciality shops - and they could easily be $2,000.00 or more.

At sixty bucks - I'll pick up another. None of the cars I work on weigh more than 2500lbs anyway. The aluminum jacks are sooo much easier to drag around the garage than the old steel units.

FWIW,
Carl B.

That particular floor jack looks like one I got under the "Torin" brand, made in China. I saw it at the HFT store and it looked identical minus one handle (the "Torin" branded one had a handle on both sides). I had really bad luck with that floor jack... first it was really weak and had difficulty raising the front end of 3000lbs vehicle (the rear was on the ground). while it did eventually raise it, the bar was visibly bending. After a few months using it, it developed a slow leak and would no longer hold its position. Overall, I didn't feel comfortable using it anymore. It might have just been an isolated incident, but just a point of data for you to consider.

I picked up a 3ton AL floor jack from Costco after that and that has worked flawlessly. The costco one was $100.

Carl B · Jul 9, 2011

Good warning - I bought my last aluminun jack from Sam's Club - it was labeled "Goodyear Racing". Also made in china - I've had it about 5 years and so far it's been great. It is not the "one pump" style - as I recall I paid around $100.00 for that one as well. It has a two piece handle... so you can shorten the handle if necessary - like when one end of the car is close to a wall in the garage.
FWIW,
Carl B.

diggerrick · Jul 11, 2011

Not a coupon, but a pretty good deal on the large adjustable wrench set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/wrenches/15-inch-18-inch-and-24-inch-jumbo-adjustable-wrenches-751.html

15", 18", & 24" for less than $30 with 20% coupon.

That's less than i paid for mine separatley using ITC coupons.

I've used the 15" & 24" already.

weadjust · Jul 11, 2011

bimmerZ5 said:
by the way, does anyone know of a current coupon for the earthquake 1/2" drive impact wrench? found one from a few years ago for $80, but haven't seen anything lately. I guess I can get $80 by using a 20% off coupon ($100 normal price).... looking for something better.

Coupon for 1/2" Earthquake impact can be found at this link for $69.99 exp. 10/7/11

http://a.slickdeals.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=606798&d=1310319295

Steves32 · Jul 11, 2011

The new Street Rodder magazine (September issue) has a HF 20% off single item coupon in it. Just FYI

thrifty bill · Jul 12, 2011

The Harbor Freight store here continues to accept the coupons I download from slickdeals. Its almost impossible to read the numbers on the 20% off coupons, but no problem.

I always keep a stack of the free item coupons: scissors, screwdrivers, flashlight, volt meter, and work gloves. They have dropped the minimum purchase requirement on the free goods! I did join the ITC.

http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1276399

soob · Jul 13, 2011

Here's a high-res, sharp, printable 20% off that has a decent expiration date. The big print barcode and numbers will always work at the register. You can print it as many times as you want.

fatboyf150 · Jul 14, 2011

http://widgets.harborfreight.com/ws...tml&cust=02002841353&keycode=1004&single=true

DARK AGE 53 · Jul 14, 2011

anyone have a coupon for this spray gun http://www.harborfreight.com/lightweight-high-pressure-spray-gun-93205.html ? Thanks

itsvegas · Jul 16, 2011

does anyone have a free clamp coupon (not with purchase of 19.99) that is an online version? my store stopped accepting photocopies!

scott_one · Jul 17, 2011

Anybody see a recent coupon for this engine stand for $99? The one I have is expired...

soob · Jul 17, 2011

Here it be.

scott_one · Jul 17, 2011

Thanks Soob!

nokiafan88 · Jul 18, 2011

Thanks for the coupons, itc coupons won't work with the card huh ?

nokiafan88 · Jul 18, 2011

Sorry I meant to say, does hf take ITC coupons without the card?

fatboyf150 · Jul 18, 2011

nokiafan88 said:
Sorry I meant to say, does hf take ITC coupons without the card?

They are not supposed to. But, there are some employees that don't care about their job and take them anyway. YMMV.

nokiafan88 · Jul 18, 2011

fatboyf150 said:
They are not supposed to. But, there are some employees that don't care about their job and take them anyway. YMMV.

I know some of the employees who are super laid back. They care about their job but want to pass the savings and make the customer happy

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Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Active member

Active member

Well-known member

Active member