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Harbor Freight Cross Beam Jack Adapter - worth $33??

Wallyman

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I've wanted one of these for a while, anyone have real world experience with it?

Sale + 25% coup makes it a pretty good deal @ $33.75....

Harbor Freight Cross Beam Adapter 60762

image_22549.jpg
 
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rburke65

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No experience with it, but could you make for $34? If it doesn't perform as expected, you're only out $34. You could be out 'trial buyer' as report back. Go for it.
 
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Wallyman

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No experience with it, but could you make for $34? If it doesn't perform as expected, you're only out $34. You could be out 'trial buyer' as report back. Go for it.

Exactly. I considered making a fixed lift point one, which I could probably do for $20 but would take 10 hours of screwing around, finding material, etc. and in the end would not be all that wonderful.

My one concern is I won't get frame rail to frame rail (even on my Miata and RX7) but I think it would still work fine for the front cradle mount points. I'm thinking it's a win, and worst case it becomes a nice Garden Tractor lifting device (because jacking that thing up is a real PITA!).
 

raskal

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make sure that the mounting method for the beam will work on your jack. I bought one of these beams on clearance and still haven't found a way to mate it to my jack yet
 

volvo

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..
Notice the 4 Ton jack used in pick, when I bet most low cost garage jacks in use are nearer the 2.5 ton mark? Did ad show any claimed load spec's?
Certainly a good start to add a set of casters/wheels to for a front end car dolly.
 
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Wallyman

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make sure that the mounting method for the beam will work on your jack. I bought one of these beams on clearance and still haven't found a way to mate it to my jack yet

Looks like it will fit the standard removable saddle.. I have a standard 3ton Craftsman iron and the usual HF stuff, so no issues there I hope.
 
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Wallyman

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..
Notice the 4 Ton jack used in pick, when I bet most low cost garage jacks in use are nearer the 2.5 ton mark? Did ad show any claimed load spec's?
Certainly a good start to add a set of casters/wheels to for a front end car dolly.

Rated for 2 tons, so it says. I have a 3 ton jack that I use, tho none of my vehicles are more than 2.5 ton total and I've yet to lift one completely off the ground with a single floor jack anyhow. :) RX7 is 3080lb, Miata should be <3000 even with the V8... and those are the ones I expect to use this with.
 
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I bought one from Northern tool a while back, same thing.

Had to shorten mine up so it would fit the cradle of the car. Can't make one for $34.00 if count your labor time.
 

DekeT

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I don't think I would use it on a truck but it looks like it could be effective for zturn mowers and garden tractors.
 

mmhouse

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make sure that the mounting method for the beam will work on your jack. I bought one of these beams on clearance and still haven't found a way to mate it to my jack yet

I have two that look the same but came from Northern Tool. I had to modify both of my jacks to properly accept them. Each was different but took more creativity than skill or tools.

It depends a lot on your car and available jacking points how useful the crossbeam might be. I used mine all the time on my old car, both front and rear (Corvette) - that's why I have two. On my new car (Mustang) I don't use them at all.

It's definitely worth $34 if you have a use for it.

Hint: If it's too long for your application remove the slide-out bars on the ends and relocate the rubber pads to the ends of the solid center piece.
 
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I have two that look the same but came from Northern Tool. I had to modify both of my jacks to properly accept them. Each was different but took more creativity than skill or tools.

It depends a lot on your car and available jacking points how useful the crossbeam might be. I used mine all the time on my old car, both front and rear (Corvette) - that's why I have two. On my new car (Mustang) I don't use them at all.

Hint: If it's too long for your application remove the slide-out bars on the ends and relocated the rubber pads to the end of the solid center piece.

yup, I have two as well, and use them specifically on the vette ;)
 

mmhouse

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I just use a 12" piece of pressure treated 4x4 :shrug

Sometimes that's a pain especially with low vehicles. It's not insurmountable - you can run the car up on boards to get clearance for the jack and block sitting on top - but if you couple a steel crossbeam with a low-profile long-reach jack lifting low cars is MUCH easier and faster.
 
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Wallyman

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Sometimes that's a pain especially with low vehicles. It's not insurmountable - you can run the car up on boards to get clearance for the jack and block sitting on top - but if you couple a steel crossbeam with a low-profile long-reach jack lifting low cars is MUCH easier and faster.

Funny.. I have just such board ramps made for both the cars in question, they are streetable weedeaters and none of the jacks I own will fit. I used a bunch of old dogeared fence boards to make 3 piece assemblies so the center section between the front and rear wheels is removable after you drive up so you can perform some inspection without a jack. Handy, but large and heavy and a PITA to store.

I am looking at the 68050 Low Pro rapid pump jack too, in fact. :) I'm hoping that it with the cross bar makes for a simpler and easier process.
 

mmhouse

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Funny.. I have just such board ramps made for both the cars in question, they are streetable weedeaters and none of the jacks I own will fit. I used a bunch of old dogeared fence boards to make 3 piece assemblies so the center section between the front and rear wheels is removable after you drive up so you can perform some inspection without a jack. Handy, but large and heavy and a PITA to store.

I am looking at the 68050 Low Pro rapid pump jack too, in fact. :) I'm hoping that it with the cross bar makes for a simpler and easier process.

I have one of these jacks that I picked up for a song online (and prepaid shipping) a few years ago...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=144795&gclid=CNjxof3d5LkCFYl_Qgod-mYAdw

The jack itself is very heavy (steel) but on wheels so fine on concrete. Couple it with one of the crossbeams and lifting the Vette was a breeze! I used a not-so-long jack in the rear with a crossbeam and had the car way up in the air (jacking both ends) and on jack stands very quickly.

I had to modify the jack and crossbeam a bit to marry them up for safe lifting.
 

kendogg

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Sometimes that's a pain especially with low vehicles. It's not insurmountable - you can run the car up on boards to get clearance for the jack and block sitting on top - but if you couple a steel crossbeam with a low-profile long-reach jack lifting low cars is MUCH easier and faster.

Fair enough. One reason for me not to own a lowered car except for the track car, haha. I usually end up taking the front bumper off any of my track cars to get it up on ramps anytime I have to get under it. That, or jack it up from the side jackpoint.
 
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captaindiode

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My brother just bought one of these. Your jack has to have a threaded hole for the saddle. A drop in saddle will not work out of the box.
 

mmhouse

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My brother just bought one of these. Your jack has to have a threaded hole for the saddle. A drop in saddle will not work out of the box.

Yep. I have two different jacks and two of the crossbeams. I had to modify both beams and/or jacks in different ways to make them mate properly.
 
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Wallyman

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Yep. I have two different jacks and two of the crossbeams. I had to modify both beams and/or jacks in different ways to make them mate properly.

My brother just bought one of these. Your jack has to have a threaded hole for the saddle. A drop in saddle will not work out of the box.

What sort of modifications.. grinding out holes/grinding off threads? And to what extent.. a little, a lot? I'm going to look at it today (was waiting for it to arrive on a truck).
 

mmhouse

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What sort of modifications.. grinding out holes/grinding off threads? And to what extent.. a little, a lot? I'm going to look at it today (was waiting for it to arrive on a truck).

It's been awhile, I don't remember exactly what I did now. But I'll take a look later today and post some specifics for you.
 
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Wallyman

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With %20 off coupon + shipping + tax it comes out to $45.

There is one on ebay that goes a little wider (28" to 40") vs HF (28" to 37") and is $49.99 with free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Ton-Capac..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item2c72f6ff1c&vxp=mtr


No shipping for me, they have it in store (should be there about now, in fact)... $35.77 OTD.

Don't know if the extra 3" is worth $15 more, but I'll keep that in mind if the HF one doesn't look right to me or takes too much work to modify. Thank you!

It's been awhile, I don't remember exactly what I did now. But I'll take a look later today and post some specifics for you.

Cool, I'd appreciate the info!
 

mmhouse

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What sort of modifications.. grinding out holes/grinding off threads? And to what extent.. a little, a lot? I'm going to look at it today (was waiting for it to arrive on a truck).

As best I can remember after looking at my Jacks:

On the extra long Omega jack I'm pretty sure that I cut the pin or bolt off the crossbeam with a hacksaw, drilled it out and tapped the hole. I then attached the crossbeam to the saddle of the jack with a bolt from underneath and into the (now) threaded hole in the crossbeam.

On the smaller jack I drilled a hole in the saddle to accept the pin in the center of the crossbeam. I don't think the pin that's in my crossbeam now is what came in it. I think it came with a bolt that, again, I cut off, threaded with a tap and and inserted a bolt with the head cut off which became the pin that's now in it. I don't have a grinder or I could have just ground the bolt down.

On my smaller jack the crossbeam now just lifts off the saddle so I can use the jack for other purposes. On the larger Omega jack the crossbeam is bolted on so can be removed but it takes more time.

How you'll need to modify, if at all, depends on what type of jack you have and what sort of pin or bolt the crossbeam has. All of my modifications were made with simple hand tools - drill, file, tap, wrench, etc.

Hope this is of some help to you.
 
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Wallyman

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When do people need this type of jack?
Don't you just jack from the rear diff?

We use it to lift one side of the car to rotate the tires. Works good for this.

That and jacking fromt eh diff wn't lift the front usually. :)

As best I can remember after looking at my Jacks:

On the extra long Omega jack I'm pretty sure that I cut the pin or bolt off the crossbeam with a hacksaw, drilled it out and tapped the hole. I then attached the crossbeam to the saddle of the jack with a bolt from underneath and into the (now) threaded hole in the crossbeam.

On the smaller jack I drilled a hole in the saddle to accept the pin in the center of the crossbeam. I don't think the pin that's in my crossbeam now is what came in it. I think it came with a bolt that, again, I cut off, threaded with a tap and and inserted a bolt with the head cut off which became the pin that's now in it. I don't have a grinder or I could have just ground the bolt down.

On my smaller jack the crossbeam now just lifts off the saddle so I can use the jack for other purposes. On the larger Omega jack the crossbeam is bolted on so can be removed but it takes more time.

How you'll need to modify, if at all, depends on what type of jack you have and what sort of pin or bolt the crossbeam has. All of my modifications were made with simple hand tools - drill, file, tap, wrench, etc.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Good info, thanks. I looked at the one at HF last night. The center post is a bolt, specialized and big. To use it on a non-threaded saddle jack like mine I would need to come up with a pretty specialized replacement. The shoulder the bolt head clamps down against is quite minimal, maybe 1/16" so the difference in diameter is pretty tiny. I suppose I could get a 1" or so diameter bolt with a large washer and make that work, with the bolt head being above the surface area of the cross beam.

As I looked it at, it really isn't much of anything to make outside of the cool adjustable pads. The main tube is 2"x3.5"x.125" steel, the inserts are just a shade smaller. But the pads are what really make it nice (and elevate it to the point of being worth $40+ instead of using a $2 4x4)

Ultimately I did not buy it because I wanted to think about the mounting a bit more. I may still snap it up this weekend but not sure.

With my existing jack, there isn't anything that will self center it perfectly like the bolt would in a threaded saddle, and that is teh scare. I suppose a tightly installed monster bolt will hold, but honestly I was hoping for something I could quickly take in and out (like the post saddle I have). Maybe the answer is to buy it and weld a saddle knob on the box tube..... but then I can't move it to a future purchase of the threaded saddle style jack.

Still thinking about it.
 
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Wallyman

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Just a followup (tho I don't have all the technical details handy.. at least it's an update!)

I bought the adapter, and then headed to my local metal supply place with it in hand to see if I could a) duplicate it cheaper and make it fit my non HF jack or b) adapt it.

Unfortuantely, I can't replicate it with standard stock due to the weld ridge on the inside of standard box steel and the large slop between the choices they had. I opted to retrofit it to my Craftsman 3ton steel floor jack which really is just replacing the mount stud/bolt.

I bought 2 pieces of solid rod (need to get the diameters to post up) and cut and started to welded them into an adapter plug (ran out of wire tho, oops!). So far, it is looking like it will work, the only down side is the adapter won't be bolted to my jack like it would be if I used a HF jack but instead held in by about 1.5" of shank and the car pushing down on it. My theory is if I am relying on 3 threads of that bolt to keep a catastrophe from happening, I'm already doing some stupid dangerous **** and should stop doing it anyhow! :)

I'll try to post up some photos once I get done. The nice thing with this is once I upgrade to the long neck HF jack, it can be put there if I want via the bolt since I didn't modify the adapter in any way. :rocker:
 

kbs2244

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Just make sure the ends move in sync.
That jack is going to be real tippy, left to right.
 

skulldrinker

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Has anyone thought of way to combine this beam with an air powered bottle jack? And for it to be stable.

Sent from my A701 using Tapatalk
 
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Wallyman

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Photos, as promised.

CrossBeam_1_resize.JPG


Comparison of the Stock bolt vs. my custom slug to fit the Craftsman 3 ton jack
The .99 diameter ('long' part) is the part that goes into the cross beam adapter, the 1.175 diameter ('short' part) is the part that goes into the jack (I see now my word choice was poor.. 'long' means the longer of the two parts that are welded together)

CrossBeam_2_resize.JPG


Stock HF bolt

CrossBeam_3_resize.JPG


Custom slug, bottom side

CrossBeam_4_resize.JPG


Custom slug, top side

CrossBeam_5_resize.JPG


Comparison of the stock Craftsman saddle vs the crossbeam with my custom slug

CrossBeam_6_resize.JPG


Custom slug installed in the jack

CrossBeam_8_resize.JPG


Crossbeam adapter on the 3 ton jack with the custom slug

The slug is far deeper into the jack than the stock saddle, the only thing it doesn't replicate comapred to using the HF jack is if I tipped it over the crossbeam falls off. But then again,l if I tip it over, the car has already fallen off anyhow, so I guess it's moot. :bounce:

And yes, it's not perfectly centered, my welding skills are slipping due to lack of use lately. :mad:
 

37ford4dr

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Wallyman thanks for the pictures and the write up.

is there a reason you welded the slug to the jack instead of just welding it to the cross beam? so you could use both the original saddle and the adapter?


anybody else have anything to add new to this discussion? I recently added a corvette C5 to the collection and will either be making my own or modifying two of these to fit in my jack saddle. it looks like many C5 owners put the jack stands right under these cross beams. thanks bob
 
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Wallyman

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Wallyman thanks for the pictures and the write up.

is there a reason you welded the slug to the jack instead of just welding it to the cross beam? so you could use both the original saddle and the adapter?

The Slug isn't welded to either, it's a unique piece. Jack (with saddle removed), the custom slug (with small jack end and big cross beam end) and the cross beam. The craftsman jack saddle just drops in so yes, I can swap between them without unbolting it. I haven't used it with a HF jack where you bolt it in.

Still going strong, and has worked perfectly. Most recently to reach both frame rails of my 1969 Mustang right behind the rad mount to lift the front up.
 
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