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Harbor Freight paint spray gun

killahog

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So after reading a few posts on here, I decided to pick up one of the Harbor HVLP guns. I found a couple metal cabnits at a yard sale for $5.00 so I figured I dident have much to lose. Just a few you tube videos later the paint job was done and I think it turned out pretty good. The rough spot on the right side door was a spot of rust not a run. The paint came from TSC it’s Ford Tractor color and is pretty close to what Bendpak used on my lift just a few shades lighter
 

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driz

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So after reading a few posts on here, I decided to pick up one of the Harbor HVLP guns. I found a couple metal cabnits at a yard sale for $5.00 so I figured I dident have much to lose. Just a few you tube videos later the paint job was done and I think it turned out pretty good. The rough spot on the right side door was a spot of rust not a run. The paint came from TSC it’s Ford Tractor color and is pretty close to what Bendpak used on my lift just a few shades lighter



Those purple guns aren’t half bad . That’s a plenty fine job. I wouldn’t use one on my Porsche but I don’t have or want one. Those are great guns for touch up work and the like though.
The secret to any of those guns lasting is when everyone you use a hardened paint like a urethane take it apart and clean it with one of those tiny brush kits using lacquer thinner. Some of the guns have them , HF sells a nice set for around $5


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gahrajmahal

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I almost use them as throwaway spray guns. I have sprayed lacquer, rust oleum and latex paint through them. Bet they would work good for contact cement also.
 

Pathfinders

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Killahog that turned out nice. I just bought one. I have never used a spray gun and I am getting ready to paint some 4 drawer filing cabinets. Any advice? The cabinets will be used in the garage for storage. I also have been down the youtube rabbit hole of painting tips.
 

driz

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Killahog that turned out nice. I just bought one. I have never used a spray gun and I am getting ready to paint some 4 drawer filing cabinets. Any advice? The cabinets will be used in the garage for storage. I also have been down the youtube rabbit hole of painting tips.



PRACTICE FIRST! Get a couple old cardboard boxes and practice with those . The typical pattern is a not too heavy coat then spray the next lap half way over that across that one. Repeat .Gun ALWAYS perpendicular to the surface at the same distance. Start the spray BEFORE you start to sweep across the object until AFTER you’re off it. If the surface is round then follow that round . Not rocket science really pretty easy.
Always set your fan so it’s that nice consistent density oval you can see in illustrations on scrap before the intend project. For painting a project especially the first time do the back first. Then you’ll be leaving runs out of sight and be all squared away when you get to the visible stuff.
If you’re using hardened paints like Urethane do it outside and at the very least have a brand new charcoal filter set in your respirator. Your really supposed to have a supplied air rig like a hobby air . issocyanates are particularly nasty including the fumes coming off after you’re done, bad stuff.

This is a great site for info on all things body / paint work.
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php



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OccupantRJ

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Killahog that turned out nice. I just bought one. I have never used a spray gun and I am getting ready to paint some 4 drawer filing cabinets. Any advice? The cabinets will be used in the garage for storage. I also have been down the youtube rabbit hole of painting tips.

Get some cardboard to set the spray pattern with. It can be varied from flat to round pattern, and the amount of paint output can be adjusted. The knob on the rear controls air output, and the knob on the side controls pattern.

If shooting an oil or alkyd base paint, use either VM&P naphtha or acetone, or maybe xylene. Regular mineral spirits paint reducer ***** for drying time. Penetrol additive is for alkyd or oil base paint, and Flotrol is for latex. These products reduce brush strokes when brushing, and help flow out when spraying.

I restore shop equipment for a hobby, and I personally use an alkyd/oil paint like an industrial enamel along with naphtha for a reducer, at around 45-50 psi. I can shoot small parts at 3 pm outdoors in the sun after allowing them to heat up and in mid 90’s sunny weather, I can be bolting them on by 7:30 pm. If the parts are larger, I wait at least a day to prevent pressure imprints from handling.

I use one gun for primer and the other(s) for paint. I stock them as throwaways as needed. They do plenty fine for my uses.
 
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killahog

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Killahog that turned out nice. I just bought one. I have never used a spray gun and I am getting ready to paint some 4 drawer filing cabinets. Any advice? The cabinets will be used in the garage for storage. I also have been down the youtube rabbit hole of painting tips.

Path, This was the first time I had even seen a paint gun so I just watched a few you tube videos. I cannot add any advice that Occupant did not cover, in fact I wish I would have been able to read his before I started. In my case I thinned the paint with thinner and when using a wooden stir stick the paint will fall off the stick in to separate lines when lifted out of the container. I transferred a little at a time into a separate Jar. When I got started I noticed I was missing a lot and of spots until I started to really focus on where the edge of the spray pattern was so I could overlap that a little bit. The reason I posted was I thought their would be others on here that wanted to try these and see how simple it is. I did buy a little red filter for $2.00 and put on the bottom, I appeared to work fine. Good luck .

Thanks for the Tips OccupantR.
 

OccupantRJ

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There is a basic difference between a thinner and a reducer. Thinner is basically used on lacquer paint, and reducers are used for the oil/alkyd paints. In the old days of basically two types of paint, using the wrong one would mess up your paint job. The chemicals of which I speak are directed at utility painting. I have little experience with automotive paints.
 
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killahog

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There is a basic difference between a thinner and a reducer. Thinner is basically used on lacquer paint, and reducers are used for the oil/alkyd paints. In the old days of basically two types of paint, using the wrong one would mess up your paint job. The chemicals of which I speak are directed at utility painting. I have little experience with automotive paints.

Hmmm, I read on the back of the can of paint use (Thinner) if nessasary so I used regular thinner. I will look into it a little deeper. Thanks .

This is the paint I used and the thinner, the paint appeared to dry okay but I probably used the wrong type thinner
 

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OccupantRJ

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As a novice, someone may also not know that the fan spray pattern can be adjusted from vertical to horizontal, or any degree of rotation for that matter, by loosening the lock ring at the output of the gun and rotating the fore piece to the desired angle of attack. I change angles quite often during a shoot due to the odd shapes I encounter on machines. Small items can be mounted on threaded rods and such to do a paint job all over at once, then the rod clamped into a clamp or vise to allow the part to dry. This saves a LOT of time. I sometimes use a long tapered punch to wedge into a hole, paint the part, then after the part is dry, wire brush the paint off the punch. Use your imagination.
 

OccupantRJ

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Hmmm, I read on the back of the can of paint use (Thinner) if nessasary so I used regular thinner. I will look into it a little deeper. Thanks .

The term gets interchanged a lot. If using oil or alkyd paint, use either naphtha, acetone, or maybe xylene and you should be ok. I refuse to use mineral spirits for painting. I had bad experience with it in plant maintenance work. Enamel lays onto and bonds to the previous layer. Lacquer emulsifiers the previous layer, so that is why using the wrong chemicals can make for a bad day. I have been using VM&P naphtha for 35 years with alkyds and oil base with no issues.
 
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bullnerd

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Nice job Hog. I like the blue.

RJ, do you have a favorite brand of industrial enamel?

Thanks for the tips.
 

flat tire

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I have painted several vehicles with a wagoner airless sprayer and could not have asked for a better job. never a complaint from a customer.
painting is about prep work, setting the gun and consistency
 

tdcisco1

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I have several cheap spray guns,including the HF purple gun. one is about 35 yrs old, all work great. when done using give a thorough wash out with lacquer reducer.
 

OccupantRJ

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Nice job Hog. I like the blue.

RJ, do you have a favorite brand of industrial enamel?

Thanks for the tips.

You are welcome. I normally use color matched Sherwin Williams industrial enamel on things for the shop, sometimes the Majic from TSC for straight colors like black, white, etc, but I would have no issue using PPG, DuPont, Ace hardware, or other quality paints.

The solids % in paint seems to be the major factor, and also weather resistance for outdoor use. I started out using grey floor and porch enamel, which held up good also. I once shot a bandsaw outside with it in 30 degree weather because I was bored from being trapped in the house. :lol_hitti It came out fine.
 

driz

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You can usually see if it’s ok by taking a drop of paint and adding a drop of whatever t thin it. It’ll either clump up or get all smeary but not thin and blend if it’s not compatible. That works on stuff like cabinets and small stuff bit if it’s important like a car hood or something big try to use the exact right stuff. It’s a whole lot easier to put paint on than fix bubbling, orange peel, peeling ect Later on. Just like UNWELDING something, tears will follow��
 

619DioFan

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At 10.00 a piece I bought 2. one for oil based and the other for water based. the only learning curve I had was getting the paint(s) thinned right for these guns. once the mix was right they worked very well for me.
 

Bretny

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I also have had really good luck with those purple HF guns. I always have a new one in the box still, i buy them for $9 on sale. I spray rustoleum through them and mix with regular paint thinner.
I have sprayed the following.
Many metal cabinets, garage doors, a drill press, a car trailer and a snow plow.
I usualy run a regulator at 65-80psi then 50ft of 3/8 hose. I have put about 4 gal of paint/primer and killed one gun. Well really not killed it just didnt spray right no matter how i cleaned it..and at $9 a piece there not worth spending much time on.
 
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killahog

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I also have had really good luck with those purple HF guns. I always have a new one in the box still, i buy them for $9 on sale. I spray rustoleum through them and mix with regular paint thinner.
I have sprayed the following.
Many metal cabinets, garage doors, a drill press, a car trailer and a snow plow.
I usualy run a regulator at 65-80psi then 50ft of 3/8 hose. I have put about 4 gal of paint/primer and killed one gun. Well really not killed it just didnt spray right no matter how i cleaned it..and at $9 a piece there not worth spending much time on.

Bretny ; I set mine up with the moto guard filter then 50’ of hose with a gun mounted filter and regulator I would prefer to have those mounted in line before the gun to make it a little lighter and eaiser to Maneuver does it make any difference?
 

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LXCam

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All great advice except the most important. Clean the living **** out of it right out of the box. I bought one for my lista build and it sprayed great, no issues. But it was a total disaster inside. There was so much **** I took every single piece apart and cleaned it thoroughly.
 

OccupantRJ

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Bretny ; I set mine up with the moto guard filter then 50’ of hose with a gun mounted filter and regulator I would prefer to have those mounted in line before the gun to make it a little lighter and eaiser to Maneuver does it make any difference?

What I do is insert a filter into the quick disconnect in the shop. Then a 50 foot hose if painting outside. I use saw horses to support larger parts, so I hang a filter/separator/regulator on the end of the saw horse and feed it with the long hose at line pressure. After that I have a very flexible 8 foot hose going to the gun. This helps keep a more accurate pressure at the gun due to pressure drop and allows me to pop the hose loose to go back into the shop for paint reloads. If I need more reach or mobility I have a short hose that can be added to the gun hose.
 

Jazz1

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I bought the same HF spray gun. Its the only HF tool I ever bought. Shot my boat trailer with it. I liked the gun so I sprayed my truck and my boat. Like others have said, you buy one clean it well before use
 

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OccupantRJ

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By the way, the HF paint gun can be parked temporarily by placing across a 2x4 sawhorse top rail by saddling it between the grip and trigger. Comes in handy sometimes.
 

Augus7us

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I almost use them as throwaway spray guns. I have sprayed lacquer, rust oleum and latex paint through them. Bet they would work good for contact cement also.

Man, that's a great idea. This could have saved me a lot of time in the past.

OP, your cabinets turned out real nice.

Two years ago I was restoring a jet drill press and decided I didn't want to put a spray paint finish on it and bought my first HVLP gun. I realized I hated painting stuff because of rattle cans, using the gun was a lot more enjoyable.

-Clint

Edit: Because everyone loves pictures and I was proud of this one, my first full restore of a tool.

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driz

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By the way, the HF paint gun can be parked temporarily by placing across a 2x4 sawhorse top rail by saddling it between the grip and trigger. Comes in handy sometimes.



I hang mine in the vise. That’s not a recommended method I can tell you. Best method and pretty cheap is one of the bent wire holders HF sells or bend your own.. It’s really nice to have both hands free if your mixing hardener, thinners and such.


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OccupantRJ

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ford33

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My local community college teaches auto body repair and use the purple harbor freight guns in class. I've painted fenders and hoods with those guns and they came out looking great. Preparation of the painted surface, a clean gun and basic painting skills can result in a very presentable paint job.

The teachers know the students will not clean the spray guns thoroughly so they buy the HF guns cheap and toss them at the end of the semester. Some students buy their own and take better care of them.
 

ford33

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Just as I finished and sent the message above, I realized my large wood deck needs to be stained. I was going to purchase a Wagner or Grayco airless sprayer but this thread has given me an idea. Why not use the HF purple gun to spray oil based semi-transparent stain on the outside deck? I will try a small section next weekend and see how it goes. Any tips on spraying oil based stain?
 

fasteddie

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I also like the purple 4 oz. detail gun and their air brushes work pretty good.
 

71goldss

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For the cost, the purple gun has it’s place. But for those that don’t mind spending more, I feel HF Professional gun is leaps and bounds superior and worth the extra money! I’ve gone through 3 or 4 of the purple guns before trying the HF Professional for shooting primers, and I’ll never go back. I also find the build materials and quality to be far superior, and it sprays like a new gun every time I use it. I couldn’t say that wihen using the purple guns. In my case, the purple guns always sprayed differently after each use and cleaning. Just my experience with both guns.
 

OccupantRJ

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For the cost, the purple gun has it’s place. But for those that don’t mind spending more, I feel HF Professional gun is leaps and bounds superior and worth the extra money! I’ve gone through 3 or 4 of the purple guns before trying the HF Professional for shooting primers, and I’ll never go back. I also find the build materials and quality to be far superior, and it sprays like a new gun every time I use it. I couldn’t say that wihen using the purple guns. In my case, the purple guns always sprayed differently after each use and cleaning. Just my experience with both guns.

Thanks for the input. Spraying cast iron machines is not a demanding application, but I think I will try the pro gun just to see what the difference may be.
 
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killahog

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Just as I finished and sent the message above, I realized my large wood deck needs to be stained. I was going to purchase a Wagner or Grayco airless sprayer but this thread has given me an idea. Why not use the HF purple gun to spray oil based semi-transparent stain on the outside deck? I will try a small section next weekend and see how it goes. Any tips on spraying oil based stain?


If you go with the purple gun for the deck please post your results, I have a deck that needs done and might do the same.
 

LXCam

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Beautiful job on that drill press!

LX did you take any pictures of your Lista Build?.

Sorry for the delay kill, I hadn't been back into this thread. Yes, they're in the link in my sig.
 

driz

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Just as I finished and sent the message above, I realized my large wood deck needs to be stained. I was going to purchase a Wagner or Grayco airless sprayer but this thread has given me an idea. Why not use the HF purple gun to spray oil based semi-transparent stain on the outside deck? I will try a small section next weekend and see how it goes. Any tips on spraying oil based stain?



I tried a Wagner once. Oil based stain too water thin. Didn’t work for ****. Slow , exceedingly slow. On the small balusters and crannies sure bit stick to the tried and true roller with a short pole for the flatwork. For most of that I still prefer a small diameter 6” roller and a brush in the other hand.


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