Hein-Werner Model WS jack question

[Junkman]

I picked up a Hein-Werner Model WS jack at the Stafford Springs swap meet this past Sunday, and as expected, it wasn't working. Can't expect much when you pay $5 for a rolling floor jack. Today, I had some time to start to check it out, and since it didn't raise, I started by removing what I thought was the fluid reservoir plug. I now realize that the plug that I removed, which is next to the gear nut (the one that turns to raise or lower the saddle), is the pump valve top plug. When I took it off, I inserted a small screwdriver into the hole, and something soft moved, and it squirted out some oil. I then put the plug back in, and tried the jack, and it did pump up and raise the saddle, but when I opened the valve using the handle knob, it didn't go down. Then I took the plug off again, and just gave the handle a slight pump, and oil came out of the hole. When I put the plug back in, and tried to pump, oil came out around the plug threads, and the jack no longer works. Came in, and started searching for the jack parts list, and found it on the Ohio Hydraulic Service website, and realized what I had done. I either displaced the pump valve seal, or it has disintegrated, because it didn't come out with the small amount of oil.
My question is, can this pump valve be repaired easily, or should I go for a complete rebuild, which I am not in favor of. Can just the pump valve service parts be purchased separately, or do I need to buy a complete kit. I really am not comfortable trying to take everything apart, since I know that I don't have the specialized tools necessary, and after reading Elroy's thread, I also don't have that much time to spend on a jack.
Next question.. Should I take the release valve apart and clean it also, while I am "servicing" this jack? Also, what about the piston assembly that the jack handle operates.. should this be touched also? I am afraid to get into the main cylinder for fear that I might not get it apart without breaking something.
Sorry about the long post, I just want to make sure that I give you all the information that I have..

 

[Hiball]

Valve seal..

Most of the times, shops will sell individual pieces, if you have problems finding them locally give me a shout.

 

[Junkman]

How difficult is it to replace. The diagram that I have makes it look simple. I assume that it is serviced by removing the hex plug from the bottom of the jack? What is your thoughts about the other parts that I mentioned? thanks

 

[Hiball]

How difficult is it to replace. The diagram that I have makes it look simple. I assume that it is serviced by removing the hex plug from the bottom of the jack? What is your thoughts about the other parts that I mentioned? thanks

The piece i linked goes directly under the Valve that you Opened, If your getting leakage there (Around the thread) its because the original Seal has been dislodged from the sealing position or its missing.

The Pump Piston seals arent terribly hard to replace, And thats Easier done from Above.

1. Remove Handle (Scratch that, You have already removed the handle Assembly)
2. Remove C-clip at the top of the Pump Piston.
3. Be aware of Pressure created by big spring below guards, Remove Top and Bottom Guard.
4. Unscrew Pump Piston Guide.
5. PULL Pump Piston out
6. Unscrew Nut, Remove the Washer.. Pull off Old Seal and Leather Washer.
7. Replace with New Seal/Washer





8. Reinstall in this Order.. Leather Washer, Seal, Metal Washer then re-tighten enough to snug washer down, But not tight enough to where it "Draws the face of the Seal Inward"

The Release Valve isnt difficult to get out, Although there really isnt anything below it other than a seat and a Needle Shutoff. There is a Seal up INSIDE the Hex portion, But requires removing the Gear and pressing the shaft out to Change. It is possible for it to be out of adjustment if the PO didnt seat the Outer portion down far enough, Which happens because the needle bottoms out, and prevents it from being completely tightened. Generally you will see leakage around the Base when this happens.

 

[franksinatra]

Question for hi-ball. Im working on the same part. Is this shaft supposed to move freely from top to bottom or is it made to stop near the top? I am unable to push the shaft up any further than in the picture. I also need a new c-clip thats on the shaft. I bent mine removing it. Where can a guy get one. Thanks

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/422008_500826503300072_996725622_n.jpg

 

[Hiball]

Question for hi-ball. Im working on the same part. Is this shaft supposed to move freely from top to bottom or is it made to stop near the top? I am unable to push the shaft up any further than in the picture. I also need a new c-clip thats on the shaft. I bent mine removing it. Where can a guy get one. Thanks

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/422008_500826503300072_996725622_n.jpg

The Head on the pimp piston is swelled, remove it.. And either lightly hit it with a grinding wheel or hand file (Zzz.zzz). They swell from the repeated contact of the handle roller over the years.

OR...

Take the eaton ring back off the shaft and drop it through from the top, them reinstall.

Are you talking about the ring (shown in the picture) or the clip on top that holds everything together?

 

[franksinatra]

That's what I needed to know. I will chuck it up and sand it smooth. I need a new wear clip, the clip that is shown, I think it's part #41 on the parts list. How the hell would a guy install a new one without stretching it out? It was a pita to remove.

 

[Hiball]

That's what I needed to know. I will chuck it up and sand it smooth. I need a new wear clip, the clip that is shown, I think it's part #41 on the parts list. How the hell would a guy install a new one without stretching it out? It was a pita to remove.

I never take them off... Lol.. You should be able to compress it a bit and then come from the bottom (threaded end) and slide it back into is groove. Don't try and pry it open, enough to slip it over the piston, otherwise it will be too big when back in its groove (which is what you have I suppose), as far as that goes they make pliers that aid in stretching it enough to slide easier.

I guess to be politically correct its really not a wear ring, its technical term is a "eaton ring" it's sole purpose isn't to center the piston in the cylinder (bushing/guide ring) its job in this case is to give the guide (brass piece) something to rest against.

 

[EDGAR]

The ring in the piston shown in the picture is to prevent the piston cup from making contact with the threaded part that goes over the piston (also shown in the picture). The spring pushes the piston up and, without the ring, the back up and the cup would be pressed all the time againts the threaded part and the piston cup could eventually be damaged. With the ring in place, the upward movement of the cup is limited so it does not touch the upper part. See that the brass piece does not touch the ring as there is some distance betwen them.

This is easy to see if the back up and the piston cup are mounted on the piston, with the upper threaded part on it (over it), and then the piston is pulled up by hand the same way the spring would pull it. This will show that the ring stops the movement of the piston to protect the piston cup from the stress the spring would put on it if the ring was missing. This is tested of course with the piston in your hand, not mounted in the pump body, otherwise you don't see the ring stopping, or limiting, the movement of the piston. Without the ring, the spring would try to pull the piston out of the cylinder and the cup would be the only thing preventing this but the cup was not designed to do this. So the ring is necessary to prevent damage to the cup, do not leave it out.

 

[franksinatra]

Thank you for the explanation. Does anyone know where I can purchase one? Can I purchase a piston with the clip installed?

 

[Hiball]

Thank you for the explanation. Does anyone know where I can purchase one? Can I purchase a piston with the clip installed?

I just went thru my Parts bin here at Home and I am sold out of OS/WS Pump Pistons, (Garage Journal beat you to it) Im sure there available.. But Generally NOS stuff brings a pretty Penny (And i Gave mine Away..LOL) , I can make some Calls and see if i can find a Supplier that you can deal with Directly, But i would think you would be able to Remove/Compress/Re-install that Eaton Ring.

Picture of how its sitting in the Groove?

And Yes.. I Misspoke Earlier about what the job of the Ring was, I should have looked at the Picture versus going off Memory, In this case the "Guide" doesnt Rest against the Ring. If the Eaton Ring was Removed it wouldnt damage the Seal or allow it to Exit, As the Brass Guide measures roughly 11/16" and NO way in Hell would it come thru that Screw in Guide with a ID of 7/16". What it would do is over time would Wear on that Brass piece and you would end up with metal shavings mixed in with your "New" Seal and it would only cause premature Problems... So It is a Must to have that Eaton ring in Place.



(above picture stolen from Elroys Thread) Also notice that is what happens when you tighten the Nut down too tight, It draws the face of the Seal Inward. Although that is the Used Seal and i expect Elroy only put it on there for Illustration.

Thanks for the Clarification Edgar... M.u.s.t t.y.p.e..s.l.o.w.e.r.

 

[franksinatra]

If you can find me one, I would appreciate it. I'm not sure why I took it apart. I have tried to crimp it together before installing it but it just won't hold it's shape now. I will get it the bet that I can and see what happens. Let me know if something shows up. Thank you.

 

[EDGAR]

For FRANKSINATRA

Well, by now you know that the solid ring was not meant to be removed. The right way was, as Hiball said, to file the end of the piston so it would slide out of the threaded part.

Now, to solve the problem what you need to get is what is called a ”round wire snap ring” or “plain wire snap ring” (or retaining ring) (see fifth picture). The Eaton type of ring is a flat, rectangular section ring (see first and fourth picture). You may be able to use one of these but the groove in the WS pump piston probably has, or should have, a rounded bottom so the eaton ring is not the ideal one to use. And the round wire has to be of the open gap kind, since you won’t be able to install a closed gap round wire ring, in the piston without a special machine that compresses the ring much like a crimping machine reduces the size of a terminal except in this case the rings remains round instead of "crimped".

As long as the open gap round wire ring keeps a snug fit between itself and the groove, it should remain in place. So, there should be no play in the ring when mounted as that would imply that the inside diameter is to big and this play would promote that the ring pops out of the groove.

See below examples of Eaton rings and of round wire rings. See also the way the rings are measured and examples of the sizes available (third picture).

http://www.arconring.com/wire-snap-rings/

 

[EDGAR]

For Hiball

In my post about the ring and the seal, I never said that the seal could actually come out of the cylinder. It can not come out because, as you said, it is bigger than the hole in the threaded part. What I said was that the cup seal itself would have to resist the pull of the spring acting on it. Without the ring, and because the spring force, the brass piece would be pulled against the threaded part. This brass ring, in turn pushes the back up and the back up pushes the cup seal. Since the cup seal is the last part in the piston, it, in turn, would be pushing against the metal washer and the nut holding everything together. In a worst case escenario, this force against the seal could break off the seal bottom edge that is not held under the metal washer. In other words, the cup side could separate, wholly or partially, from the bottom of the cup seal or at least be damaged somewhat. The ring is there for a reason, otherwise it would not be necessary to have it. I am sure the designers thought about this when adding the ring as there is no other reason for the ring to be there, I think.

Anyway, the piston is not coming out unless the nut falls of the piston, as the brass ring will be held in place by the nut even if the back up and the cup seal somehow disintegrated inside the pump piston cylinder.

The concern, or worry, is the spring force acting on the seal and not the seal actually coming out of the cylinder which, of course, can't happen.

Please, I beg you, instead of typing slower, please, please please! read slooowwweeerrr.

 

[Hiball]

For Hiball

In my post about the ring and the seal, I never said that the seal could actually come out of the cylinder. It can not come out because, as you said, it is bigger than the hole in the threaded part. What I said was that the cup seal itself would have to resist the pull of the spring acting on it. Without the ring, and because the spring force, the brass piece would be pulled against the threaded part. This brass ring, in turn pushes the back up and the back up pushes the cup seal. Since the cup seal is the last part in the piston, it, in turn, would be pushing against the metal washer and the nut holding everything together. In a worst case escenario, this force against the seal could break off the seal bottom edge that is not held under the metal washer. In other words, the cup side could separate, wholly or partially, from the bottom of the cup seal or at least be damaged somewhat. The ring is there for a reason, otherwise it would not be necessary to have it. I am sure the designers thought about this when adding the ring as there is no other reason for the ring to be there, I think.

Anyway, the piston is not coming out unless the nut falls of the piston, as the brass ring will be held in place by the nut even if the back up and the cup seal somehow disintegrated inside the pump piston cylinder.

The concern, or worry, is the spring force acting on the seal and not the seal actually coming out of the cylinder which, of course, can't happen.

Please, I beg you, instead of typing slower, please, please please! read slooowwweeerrr.

LOL.. Ok...Uh.. Yes.. No Reason to think, That is what the Ring is there for, I already admitted/confirmed that i misspoke about that and Thanked you for the Clarification. Secondly.. I dont have time to Read "slooowwweeerrr", Ive created a Monster here at GJ and have to deal with on Average 40-60 Pms/Emails a week, And feel guilty when i dont have time to Respond to people in a timely manner. I dont get the Luxury to be a Monday Morning Quarterback and Pick apart peoples Posts for the purpose of Internet showboating. When im Wrong or Misspoke ill admit it... As i did here in this thread, Someday Im betting you will be Wrong.. Maybe.. Whether you admit if publicly? Not sure about that one..

BTW.. I called it a Eaton Ring, Because that is what the HW Manual refers to it as.. I've never had to replace any, or purchased them.

Shouldn't be a "concern or worry" as long as the ring is in place, And No where did I say to operate the jack without it.

Hey.. If anyone wants to See Hiball Wrong or Have issues trying to translate "Real World" Knowledge into words hammered out by a Keyboard, Stick around... Its just a matter of time.

 

[franksinatra]

I'm greatful for everyone's help.

 

[Hiball]

I'm greatful for everyone's help.

No Worries Grant... Hopefully this little bump in the road that you encountered will save someone from making the same "small" mistake in the future. I've got a few calls out trying to find a direct replacement ring/NoS pump piston. Once I find something ill give you a Call.

On a side note.. I'm about burned out on hydraulic jacks.. I need a 2 week vacation, just me and the fishy's. <--- as soon as the floods recede LoL..

 

[franksinatra]

Im still trying to get out of the snow. Supposed to get 2" of the ugly white stuff tonight. Fishing cant be far off. lol
Quick question. Im having a hell of a time putting the 2 seals in the top nut while trying to slide it over the piston. Any help? I think I just need a bigger hammer. lol First time is usually a learning experience. I will leave it at that.

 

[Hiball]

Im still trying to get out of the snow. Supposed to get 2" of the ugly white stuff tonight. Fishing cant be far off. lol
Quick question. Im having a hell of a time putting the 2 seals in the top nut while trying to slide it over the piston. Any help? I think I just need a bigger hammer. lol First time is usually a learning experience. I will leave it at that.

It's best to install the tank nut, then 1x1 install the packing making sure you seat each one fully prior to installing the next, also don't forget to install the backing ring first if your series has that option.

 

[EDGAR]

For Hiball

Originaly posted by Hiball

If the Eaton Ring was Removed it wouldnt damage the Seal or allow it to Exit, As the Brass Guide measures roughly 11/16" and NO way in Hell would it come thru that Screw in Guide with a ID of 7/16". What it would do is over time would Wear on that Brass piece and you would end up with metal shavings mixed in with your "New" Seal and it would only cause premature Problems... So It is a Must to have that Eaton ring in Place.

You mentioned in your post that it would not damage the seal. I was just clarifying that it could actually have the potential to damage it. If the washer over the cup seal has a sharp edge, this edge acts as a shear and can eventually shear the bottom of the cup that is not covered by the washer.

Anyway, it was not an issue if the ring should be there or not. I know you stated that it has to be there but you did not exactly say why it has to be there (cup damage), so that people reading this understand why the ring is necessary. There is a need to explain better because people out there do not know what you know and you have to tell them with as many details as possible.

HIball, it is not a matter of proving you wrong. Most people here will repeat anything you say because they trust you. You are like the David Koresh of all things jack. So if you say something that, for whatever reason, is not accurate, or missing details, everyone else will also be not accurate. And they will repeat forward whatever you say and stand by it because you said it. And then, who is going to correct them? So there is a need to be as accurate as possible.

I am not trying to pick apart your posts, I am just trying to provide the most accurate information possible so that anyone reading these posts has enough knowledge to make a good job when repairing their jacks.

About half my post are pick apart by someone here ( not mentioning names) and I don,t make an issue about it. I don,t understand why you take it so personally that you have a need to attack me; I am not trying to take away your business here and I don't sell seals or parts to anyone here. Whatever information, or clarification, I provide here is just in the interest of helping GJ members with jack problems. This is not a "showboating" thing and it has never been my intention to make you look bad. I am sorry if I have hurt you feelings.

When I have been wrong I have accepted it. I have no problem with that.

So I have to ask you again, please read slower. You are reacting to fast. You are shooting first and asking questions later and that is why we have this type of "he-said-you said" posts.

I have to ask you; if you happen to say something that is not entirely accurate, do you want me to keep quiet or do you want me to say something for the sake of the people reading these posts? That is the question... And please, feel free to correct me anytime you need to. I have no problem with that, on the contrary I will be grateful to you.

 

[Hiball]

Ok.. Edgar you said alot so lets break this down a bit..

For Hiball
You mentioned in your post that it would not damage the seal. I was just clarifying that it could actually have the potential to damage it. If the washer over the cup seal has a sharp edge, this edge acts as a shear and can eventually shear the bottom of the cup that is not covered by the washer.

Anyway, it was not an issue if the ring should be there or not. I know you stated that it has to be there but you did not exactly say why it has to be there (cup damage), so that people reading this understand why the ring is necessary. There is a need to explain better because people out there do not know what you know and you have to tell them with as many details as possible.

Ill be the First one to admit.. My Translation from Personal Knowledge to Words is Poor... No if's ands or butts about it.

When i mentioned that the lack of Ring wouldnt damage the Seal, It was in response to your Claim that without the Ring the Seal would contact the "Threaded" portion of the Upper Guide. (Quoted for Clarity)

The ring in the piston shown in the picture is to prevent the piston cup from making contact with the threaded part that goes over the piston (also shown in the picture). The spring pushes the piston up and, without the ring, the back up and the cup would be pressed all the time againts the threaded part and the piston cup could eventually be damaged. With the ring in place, the upward movement of the cup is limited so it does not touch the upper part. See that the brass piece does not touch the ring as there is some distance betwen them.

Now Whether you Misspoke or wasnt sure of how exactly the HW Piston assembly was made up.. I dunno.. Doesnt matter.

Hein Werner Assembly <-- No way that Seal will ever get to that Threaded Guide.




Your typical Piston Assembly <-- Yes.. if this pump piston utilized a Ring, and it was missing, you would have immediate problems.

HIball, it is not a matter of proving you wrong. Most people here will repeat anything you say because they trust you. You are like the David Koresh of all things jack. So if you say something that, for whatever reason, is not accurate, or missing details, everyone else will also be not accurate. And they will repeat forward whatever you say and stand by it because you said it. And then, who is going to correct them? So there is a need to be as accurate as possible.

Im Very Well Versed in Hydraulic Jacks, Just not Imports, ALL brands.. Im not perfect and occasionally i need to sit down and overlook a manual for Clarity, And im always looking to Learn (Our Discussion about how the Quick lift Valve operates comes to mind) Generally that is not the Case in regards to your popular brands... Os/WS/9xxxx etc. It has something to do with how your Brain absorbs information when you are a Child as i spent my Childhood Tearing down jacks.. Its Stuck, I cant get rid of it.. I see a jack at a Auction or in someones garage and im immediately running the Numbers and Seal sizes, What series is it.. etc.. over and over in my head. I have Absolutely NO issue with you chiming in on threads.. More the Merrier (I can use the Help)

I am not trying to pick apart your posts, I am just trying to provide the most accurate information possible so that anyone reading these posts has enough knowledge to make a good job when repairing their jacks.

About half my post are pick apart by someone here ( not mentioning names) and I don,t make an issue about it. I don,t understand why you take it so personally that you have a need to attack me; I am not trying to take away your business here and I don't sell seals or parts to anyone here. Whatever information, or clarification, I provide here is just in the interest of helping GJ members with jack problems. This is not a "showboating" thing and it has never been my intention to make you look bad. I am sorry if I have hurt you feelings.

It just doesnt seem that Way.. Case and Point, The Other day it Initially seemed you didnt know how to identify what type of Seals where used in the 93632's based off of Exterior clues (packing Nut etc) so made a Post to try and Aid you or anyone listening.

For Edgar or anyone else interested, A general rule of thumb to determine what type of seals your jack utilizes on the main ram (93632) is as follows. There may be exceptions to this rule if parts have been changed during rebuilds but i believe this to hold true on factory jacks.

Leather Piston cup = a tank nut with the inner compression built into the tank nut with packing behind it.

Poly Ucups utilize quad rings so there is no inner compression nut present. (Ie burgerkongs)

And you come back with:

For Hiball

You are correct about the pump version with the u-cup and o-ring. I did not give that picture of the pump a detailed look. After giving it a better look, I do recognize that it is the latter version with the u-cup and the quad o-ring in the nut.



Just wanted to clarify in my earlier post that u-cups were also used in the later versions of the square body pump. In your post (#59, item #1) where you make a comparison between the 93632 and the 93642 it gives the impression , because of your brief description, that you are stating that only leather cups were used in the earlier square type of pump and that u-cups were used in the newer round type of pump. In other words, that the seal design changed when the pump design changed, which, as you well know, is not necessarily the case. For anyone not knowing this, it can create some confusion.

Sorry for any inconvenience I have caused anyone for not giving the pictures a better look.

I clearly stated that:

1. The Early 62's used a Leather Main Seal and Tank Packing versus a Ucup and Quad Ring in the Tank nut.

So essentially i mentioned Twice previous to your Post on "How" to identify what type of seals used.. But instead of acknowledging that.. You claim it was confusing based off my "Brief Description"

I have no Issue with Anyone trying to "Take away any Business".. Im making 6 figures running choo-chooo trains.. and a Very busy shop. My only Goal here at GJ is to give the Membership who dont have a Outlet for parts a Reasonable place to get them and help them if needed. I very seldom upcharge for parts, I send alot of Seals out for Cost + shipping sometimes a couple bucks to cover the shipping package. Im sure if you have ever done in business with MFP you can quickly find that them like Most like to charge outrageous shipping prices.. Which quickly makes those seals/orings expensive on a Individual/Small Orders.

So I have to ask you again, please read slower. You are reacting to fast. You are shooting first and asking questions later and that is why we have this type of "he-said-you said" posts.

I have to ask you; if you happen to say something that is not entirely accurate, do you want me to keep quiet or do you want me to say something for the sake of the people reading these posts? That is the question... And please, feel free to correct me anytime you need to. I have no problem with that, on the contrary I will be grateful to you.

I have NO Problem with being Corrected.. Im Not perfect nor will i ever be... Its just the Way it is.. Obviously if i say something completely Out of line.. Call me on it, But i believe if you sit back and re-read the earlier Quotes.. I think you can see that there is a bit of Nitpicking going on.. Or maybe its just me... Are my "Feelings hurt" No Sir.. Rest Assured there is Hydraulic need around here for the Both of us or anyone else that wants to chime in..

Pm sent, regarding help with putting together a sticky.

Good Day..

 

[Hiball]

Im still trying to get out of the snow. Supposed to get 2" of the ugly white stuff tonight. Fishing cant be far off. lol
Quick question. Im having a hell of a time putting the 2 seals in the top nut while trying to slide it over the piston. Any help? I think I just need a bigger hammer. lol First time is usually a learning experience. I will leave it at that.

BTW.. I had to order some Parts today, I have some New OEM clips coming and a New Pump Piston if you need it.

 

[EDGAR]

Hiball

You did not get some of my points but it really doesn't matter. Some people say that life is just a dream. If that is so, them nothing really matters...

Anyway, I hope you understand that this is not a contest, this is not a competition. This is not about who knows more than anyone else. This should be a cooperative effort. By that I mean that if you have some information, you post it, if I have some information I post it and if any GL member has any information, that can solve a problem, that member post it and everyone is happy. So, you know what you know and I know what I know, whatever that is and it is offered here for the benefit of those who want to learn something about their jacks. I do not post here for my own sake, I do it for the sake of the others that come here. No showboating involved, no showing off involved or intended here, either.

I do not claim to know everything about jacks, and I can tell you that I have not worked with all the USA brands and all the types of jacks as you have. I have worked mostly with the newer versions of the Linconls, and also Milwaukees. Also a very few HW WS and OS. Also many imports. For example, I have never worked on a NAPA imported jack because there is not a single NAPA store close to me, so therefore there a no NAPA imports to repair. If someone aks me about a NAPA import, I will refer them to you.

I wish I had worked with many different brands of jacks but unfortunately that depends on the jacks owned by the people that live in my area. Most of the older USA made jacks in my area have been either thrown away because it was to expensive to repair them or they have been sold as scrap metal. I have seen many good quality jacks in scrap yards that could have been repaired easily. People expect to pay like $20.00 to get their USA jacks repaired and when you tell them it cost more, the jack gets tossed aside. They think that it it just a matter of replacing a couple of o-rings and that it can be done in 5 minutes.

MFP does charge high shipping prices. Last time I ordered seals I had to pay $45.00 for shipping for a relatively small amount of seals. Had they shipped these Parcel Post I would have paid a lot less, but of course, they will not do so.

 

[Hiball]

Hiball

You did not get some of my points but it really doesn't matter. Some people say that life is just a dream. If that is so, them nothing really matters...

Anyway, I hope you understand that this is not a contest, this is not a competition. This is not about who knows more than anyone else. This should be a cooperative effort. By that I mean that if you have some information, you post it, if I have some information I post it and if any GL member has any information, that can solve a problem, that member post it and everyone is happy. So, you know what you know and I know what I know, whatever that is and it is offered here for the benefit of those who want to learn something about their jacks. I do not post here for my own sake, I do it for the sake of the others that come here.

Absolutely No Contest... I have lots of friends/acquaintances in the business and the list shrinks every year. I learned to lean on those guys over the years and in turn they return the favor. I don't care how long you do this, occasionally your gonna get stumped. I agree with the above points... As i stated earlier I only invest my time for the community, luckily I have a lot of free time when I'm away from home. I'd venture to bet.. There probably isn't too many hydraulic google searches that won't bring you to GJ, that's not because of any 1 single person, sure there are a few of us (hydraulic junkies) who like to monitor these threads but without the community and the individual stories being here, it would be all for nothing. As far as that goes.. Elroy's HW threads are what brought me here..

As far as Dreaming... Yeah, I find myself in a cloud occasionally, especially after a 24+ hour period without sleep. LOL. And it gets worse every year as I get older.

 

[franksinatra]

Just wanted to post a small update to the thread. I reused the eaton ring. I crimped it to as I close to a perfect circle as I could then used a dial calipers to check it out. The ring looks way better than it was, but its still not perfect. I put it together and installed the piston and assembly. I used a 3/4" thick board with a c cut out to aid in pushing the spring down so I could install the clip and it worked great. The biggest issue I had was the rubber o-rings on the big piston and then installing the brass nut on top of the top nut. I just cranked it and then tapped it with a chisel and hammer. Not overly hard but its snug! Where should the oil be poured in from? Does it matter? Should pistons be all the way out before adding oil? I might be sending it to someone for a rebuild. I hope i didnt wreck the seals. lol Thanks, Grant

 

[Hiball]

Just wanted to post a small update to the thread. I reused the eaton ring crimped it the best I could to get it back to a perfect circle and used a calipers to check it out. I installed it and its a lot better than it was but its still not perfect. I put it together and installed the piston and assembly. I used a 3/4" board with a c cut out to aid in pushing the spring down so I could install the clip and it worked great. The biggest issue I had was the rubber o-rings on the big piston and then installing the brass nut on top of the top nut. I just cranked it and then tapped it with a chisel and hammer. Not overly hard but its snug! Where should the oil be poured in from? Does it matter? Should pistons be all the way out before adding oil? Thanks, Grant

The Oil fill location is on the Back side of the Unit (threaded plug), The Release Gear/Pump Piston and Valve is on the ToP, Look Directly behind them on the Back side.. Cylinder should be Retracted.

 

[AmIEvil]

I cannot get the top part of the hydraulic cover to unscrew. #4 - Part number 24040 - I am assuming that has to unscrew to be able to get to the seals to be replaced correct?

 

[AmIEvil]

http://www.ohiohydraulic.com/hein-werner/WS.pdf